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Mongolia🇲🇳The biggest off-the-beaten-track surprise

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Next story: How yoghurt can feel like heaven
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Johan Kruseman


And off we go. And what a fantastic horse I had this time. He just wanted to gallop. My guide initially wanted to lead him by the reins, but I didn’t want to be a second German. After a while, I trained him so well that I only had to move my feet to the side, and he would start galloping even before I had to poke him in the belly. That evening, we slept in a paradise-like valley, swimming in the river, and enjoying yak cheese and yak yogurt as an appetizer. And then came the surprise that you can only get when you go off the beaten path. This ger had sheep skull with innards on the menu. And where we had watched in awe just a week ago as a family emptied a skull, we now found ourselves eagerly spooning heart, tongue, eyes, liver, intestines, and the entire skull from a large bowl, driven by hunger from missing lunch, all while Arsenal played on a small black-and-white TV in the background.

Traveled route: Ulaanbaatar, Kharkhorin, Hatgal, Khorgo, Tstetserleg, Red Waterfall, Zamiin-Uud
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Photographed by: Johan Kruseman
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How yoghurt can feel like heaven

After many instant noodles with applesauce (serving as breakfast, lunch, and dinner), sardines in tomato sauce, and the sheep skull with innards, you should have heard our stomachs when the next day we saw the other ger residents enjoying fresh yogur

Mongolia

Did this story inspire you to go to Mongolia? Read more on what Mongolia has to offer, what the best months are for visiting and check the handy links for backpacking there.
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