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Eritrea 🇪🇷

backpacking Africa Eritrea 🇪🇷Italian modernist cafés, coral Massawa and highland markets, all by permit.

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Backpacking Eritrea in 2027

A complete guide including when and where to go, costs, transport, itineraries, and practical travel advice.
A first look at the country

Backpacking Eritrea
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 23, 2026

Backpacking Eritrea runs on permits, so the route you fix in Asmara is the trip you get. Every journey outside the capital needs a travel permit from the Ministry of Tourism listing each destination, which costs about 150 to 200 nakfa and is usually ready the same or the next working day. Plan that wait into your first days.

What you get in return is a country few outsiders see. Asmara’s 1930s Italian modernist center is intact and on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Massawa has coral-stone lanes, Keren holds a Monday livestock market, and a single road drops about 2,300 meters from highland to Red Sea in roughly 115 kilometers. The challenges are plain. Foreign cards and ATMs do not work, so you need cash for everything. Internet is scarce, and buses are slow and full.

Compared with Ethiopia, Eritrea has far less street hassle but fewer sights and more paperwork. Djibouti costs more for less. Eritrea suits patient travelers who enjoy cafés and long conversations. It frustrates anyone who needs spontaneity or nightlife.

👉 Get the 📖 Travel Guide of Eritrea

Asmara (Asmara, Harnet Avenue, Fiat Tagliero)

At about 2,350 meters, Asmara is a quiet, orderly capital of 1930s Italian modernist buildings, listed by UNESCO in 2017. Walk Harnet Avenue at dusk for the evening passeggiata, study the airplane-shaped Fiat Tagliero service station, and drink macchiato in old-school bars where the espresso machines predate independence. The center is entirely walkable, and you collect travel permits for every trip beyond the city here. It suits slow walkers, architecture fans and café sitters.

Massawa and the Red Sea Coast (Massawa, Gurgusum, Dahlak Islands)

Massawa sits about 115 kilometers from Asmara, roughly 3 to 4 hours by bus down a hairpin road that drops you from cool highland air into sea-level heat. The old town on Massawa Island is coral-stone Ottoman and Egyptian architecture, much of it still scarred from the 1990 battle, with grilled-fish restaurants near the port. Gurgusum beach lies north of town, and the Dahlak Islands require a boat and separate arrangements. It suits heat-tolerant travelers who like faded port towns and snorkeling.

Keren and the Anseba Region (Keren, Elabered, Mariam Dearit)

Keren lies about 90 kilometers northwest of Asmara, 2 to 3 hours by bus, on the edge of the western lowlands. Tigre, Bilen and Tigrinya speakers share the town, and minarets and church towers share the skyline. Come on a Monday for the livestock market, then visit the Mariam Dearit shrine built into a baobab and the war cemeteries from the 1941 battle. It suits travelers who prefer market crowds and small-town tea houses to monuments.

Southern Highlands (Adi Keyh, Qohaito, Senafe, Metera)

The plateau road south runs through Dekemhare to Adi Keyh, about 2.5 to 3 hours by bus from Asmara. Nearby, Qohaito spreads ancient ruins, an old dam and rock-art caves across a windswept plateau at a canyon’s edge, while Metera near Senafe has stelae and building foundations. Villages are stone-built farming communities with few services. It suits self-sufficient travelers comfortable with rough minibuses, walking at altitude and basic guesthouses.
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Why go?Why Eritrea is worth visiting

Architecture

Asmara holds one of the densest surviving collections of 1930s modernist buildings anywhere, which is why UNESCO listed it in 2017. The Fiat Tagliero … read more 👉
Asmara holds one of the densest surviving collections of 1930s modernist buildings anywhere, which is why UNESCO listed it in 2017. The Fiat Tagliero service station, built in 1938 with cantilevered concrete wings about 15 meters long, is the famous one, but the real interest in Eritrea lies in the ordinary streets: art deco villas, futurist shopfronts, a cathedral with a Lombard-Romanesque bell tower. Massawa adds older coral-stone houses with carved wooden balconies. Walk Asmara on a Sunday morning, when traffic is lightest, and ask before photographing anything near ministries.

Low cost

A budget traveler in Eritrea usually spends around 525 to 900 nakfa (US$35 to 60) a day, covering a simple hotel room, local meals and buses. Food is … read more 👉
A budget traveler in Eritrea usually spends around 525 to 900 nakfa (US$35 to 60) a day, covering a simple hotel room, local meals and buses. Food is the main saving: a plate of shiro with taita, a breakfast of ful or a macchiato costs very little in neighborhood cafés, far less than any hotel restaurant. Most costs here are moderate rather than rock-bottom, and the visa and any car hire add up. Change money only at official Himbol bureaus, since street exchange is illegal, and bring enough US dollars or euros in cash.

Scenery

The eastern escarpment is where Eritrea’s landscape shows its range. Within a few hours you move from the cool, eucalyptus-dotted highland plateau through … read more 👉
The eastern escarpment is where Eritrea’s landscape shows its range. Within a few hours you move from the cool, eucalyptus-dotted highland plateau through cactus and euphorbia slopes down to the flat, hot Red Sea plain. The escarpment catches winter rains when the highlands are dry, so from November to February the forest around Filfil turns green while Asmara stays brown. Offshore, the Dahlak reefs are clear and little-visited. Start the descent to the coast early in the morning, when mist sits in the valleys and the light is softer for photos.

⭐ HighlightsKey places and experiences

  • Asmara’s modernist center: Walk Harnet Avenue around 6 p.m. and the whole city seems to be out, couples arm in arm under the palms, old men in pressed jackets nodding at friends. Cinema Impero’s 1937 facade glows above the crowd, and the hiss of an Italian espresso machine drifts from every second doorway. The cafés serve a macchiato that matches anything in Rome.
  • Massawa Old Town: Heat presses off coral-block walls carved with Ottoman and Egyptian-era balconies, many shot through with bullet holes. In the evening the waterfront fills with families eating grilled fish baked in a clay oven, and the air smells of charcoal and salt.
  • Keren Monday market: Camels, goats and cattle crowd the dusty grounds while traders in white turbans haggle in Tigre and Bilen. Nearby, silversmiths tap at jewelry and women sell baskets woven from palm fiber. Bring patience for the dust.
  • Qohaito: On a high plateau near Adi Keyh, broken columns from a pre-Aksumite town stand in wheat fields, with a deep canyon dropping
… read more 👉
  • Asmara’s modernist center: Walk Harnet Avenue around 6 p.m. and the whole city seems to be out, couples arm in arm under the palms, old men in pressed jackets nodding at friends. Cinema Impero’s 1937 facade glows above the crowd, and the hiss of an Italian espresso machine drifts from every second doorway. The cafés serve a macchiato that matches anything in Rome.
  • Massawa Old Town: Heat presses off coral-block walls carved with Ottoman and Egyptian-era balconies, many shot through with bullet holes. In the evening the waterfront fills with families eating grilled fish baked in a clay oven, and the air smells of charcoal and salt.
  • Keren Monday market: Camels, goats and cattle crowd the dusty grounds while traders in white turbans haggle in Tigre and Bilen. Nearby, silversmiths tap at jewelry and women sell baskets woven from palm fiber. Bring patience for the dust.
  • Qohaito: On a high plateau near Adi Keyh, broken columns from a pre-Aksumite town stand in wheat fields, with a deep canyon dropping away beside them. Wind is the main sound. A local guide can point out the Safira dam and rock art in nearby caves.
  • Debre Bizen Monastery: Founded in the 14th century, it sits at about 2,400 meters above Nefasit, reached by a steep two-hour climb through juniper and euphorbia. Chanting carries down the slope at dawn. Only men may enter, and a permit is required.
Off the map, look for the cloud forest of Filfil Solomuna, the trenches around Nakfa town, and the half-excavated port of Adulis near Foro.
Spotted a mistake or missing a highlight? Contact us.

But Eritrea offers more...

Discover and compare all of its highlights per category

🧭 RoutesSuggested travel routes through Eritrea

The 5-Day Asmara and Red Sea Route


Cool highland mornings among Italian modernist buildings, then a hairpin descent to the humid coral-stone port. It is a compact, low-stress introduction to Eritrea built around two very different cities.
  • The Fiat Tagliero Building and its cantilevered concrete wings
  • Evening passeggiata along Harnet Avenue
  • Massawa Old Town at golden hour
  • A swim and grilled fish at Massawa Beach

👉 explore this 5-day route

The 10-Day Plateau and Islands Route


This route trades city cafés for the high farming plateau of the south, ancient ruins and the country’s highest summit. It ends with salt water and reef fish in the Red Sea.
  • Summit day on Mount Soira
  • The trail to the stele at Metera
  • Art deco Dekemhare
  • Snorkeling in the Dahlak Archipelago

👉 explore this 10-day route

The 15-Day Full Eritrea Loop


Two weeks reach the lowland markets of the west, misty escarpment forests, a cliff-top monastery and a buried Aksumite port. It is the slow, thorough version, for travelers who want to see … read more 👉

The 5-Day Asmara and Red Sea Route


Cool highland mornings among Italian modernist buildings, then a hairpin descent to the humid coral-stone port. It is a compact, low-stress introduction to Eritrea built around two very different cities.
  • The Fiat Tagliero Building and its cantilevered concrete wings
  • Evening passeggiata along Harnet Avenue
  • Massawa Old Town at golden hour
  • A swim and grilled fish at Massawa Beach

👉 explore this 5-day route

The 10-Day Plateau and Islands Route


This route trades city cafés for the high farming plateau of the south, ancient ruins and the country’s highest summit. It ends with salt water and reef fish in the Red Sea.
  • Summit day on Mount Soira
  • The trail to the stele at Metera
  • Art deco Dekemhare
  • Snorkeling in the Dahlak Archipelago

👉 explore this 10-day route

The 15-Day Full Eritrea Loop


Two weeks reach the lowland markets of the west, misty escarpment forests, a cliff-top monastery and a buried Aksumite port. It is the slow, thorough version, for travelers who want to see how varied this small country really is.
  • Keren’s Monday livestock market
  • The forest road through Filfil
  • The climb to Debre Bizen monastery
  • The ruins of Adulis on the Gulf of Zula

👉 explore this 15-day route

🌤️ When to go?Weather, seasons, and timing

The best months for backpacking Eritrea are October, November, February and March, when the highlands are dry and sunny, the Red Sea coast is warm rather than punishing, and flights avoid the December and summer diaspora rushes. Climate here splits by altitude: Asmara and the plateau take their rain in summer, while Massawa and the eastern escarpment get light showers in winter and bake from June to September.
  • Dry season (October to March): Asmara sits at 20 to 25°C by day under clear skies, dropping to around 5°C on December and January nights. Massawa hovers near 27 to 31°C, the right temperature for boat trips to the Dahlak islands. Late December and January bring returning diaspora families, so Asmara hotels fill and fares rise. Timket on January 19 is the narrow window to see Orthodox priests carry draped tabots through Asmara’s streets to water, with crowds in white shawls following.
  • Short rains and rising heat (April to May): Patchy afternoon showers on the plateau, while the coast climbs toward 35°C and above.
  • Main rains (June to September): Heavy afternoon storms on the highlands peak in July and August, roads in the western lowlands turn to mud, and Massawa tops 40°C with thick humidity. Summer diaspora visits push up flight prices.
Pack a real fleece even in the dry season: one day can start with shivering at dawn in Asmara and end sweating in Massawa, about 115 kilometers away by road.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: excellent for travelingAPRApril: good for travelingMAYMay: fair for travelingJUNJune: below average for travelingJULJuly: below average for travelingAUGAugust: below average for travelingSEPSeptember: below average for travelingOCTOctober: excellent for travelingNOVNovember: excellent for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
pixabay-eritrea - ghinda-194478

💰 Costs (as of 2026)Typical budget expectations

Backpacking Eritrea on a tight budget costs US$30 to 55 a day, and most of that goes on a private room, because the country has no hostel dorms.

Travelers pay in nakfa, which is pegged by the state at about 15 to the US dollar. Bring all the cash you need in US dollars, because foreign bank cards don’t work here. Change it only at official exchange offices such as Himbol, since black-market deals are illegal. Overall, Eritrea costs more than Ethiopia, where a basic guesthouse room runs US$10 to 15, and much less than Djibouti, where hotels rarely go below US$50.

CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$15 to 35 per nightThere are no dorms, so the budget choice is a basic pension or an older hotel. A simple room in central Asmara costs about US$15 to 25, and family-run pensions charge US$25 to 35. In Massawa, older hotels on the island ask about US$15 to 25. You’ll pay less by sharing a twin room with another traveler and asking for a room without air conditioning in the highlands.
MealsUS$8 to 15 per daySupermarket shelves are thin, so self-catering saves little. Bread rolls cost about US$0.20 to 0.50, and bananas and tomatoes from the market are cheap. Eating out is the
… read more 👉
Backpacking Eritrea on a tight budget costs US$30 to 55 a day, and most of that goes on a private room, because the country has no hostel dorms.

Travelers pay in nakfa, which is pegged by the state at about 15 to the US dollar. Bring all the cash you need in US dollars, because foreign bank cards don’t work here. Change it only at official exchange offices such as Himbol, since black-market deals are illegal. Overall, Eritrea costs more than Ethiopia, where a basic guesthouse room runs US$10 to 15, and much less than Djibouti, where hotels rarely go below US$50.

CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$15 to 35 per nightThere are no dorms, so the budget choice is a basic pension or an older hotel. A simple room in central Asmara costs about US$15 to 25, and family-run pensions charge US$25 to 35. In Massawa, older hotels on the island ask about US$15 to 25. You’ll pay less by sharing a twin room with another traveler and asking for a room without air conditioning in the highlands.
MealsUS$8 to 15 per daySupermarket shelves are thin, so self-catering saves little. Bread rolls cost about US$0.20 to 0.50, and bananas and tomatoes from the market are cheap. Eating out is the better deal: shiro with injera in a local restaurant costs US$3 to 6, a plate of pasta in an Asmara café US$3 to 5, and a macchiato US$0.50 to 1.
Local transportUS$1 to 6 per dayPublic buses are the cheapest way to get around. Asmara to Keren is about US$2 to 3, and Asmara to Massawa about US$3 to 5. A city bus ride in Asmara costs well under US$0.50, and a shared taxi along the main roads is under US$1.
ActivitiesUS$0 to 25 per day (boat trips extra)Walking Asmara’s Italian-era streets costs nothing. You need a travel permit for anywhere outside Asmara. The Ministry of Tourism office on Harnet Avenue issues it for 150 to 200 nakfa (about US$10 to 13), usually within a day. The big cost is the Dahlak Islands, where you charter a whole boat for roughly US$200 to 400, so find other travelers to split it.
MiscellaneousUS$2 to 6 per dayA 1.5-liter bottle of water costs US$0.50 to 1. An hour of slow internet at an internet café is around US$1 to 2. An Eritel SIM card costs a few dollars, but you get almost no mobile data. Add tips and photocopies of your permit for checkpoints.
Total Daily BudgetUS$30 to 55Staying in Asmara and eating local food comes to about US$30 to 40 a day. Bus trips to Keren or Massawa, plus your permit, push it toward US$45 to 55. Expect to pay noticeably more than in northern Ethiopia, and budget a separate US$50 to 100 per person if you join a shared Dahlak boat.

I’d bring an extra US$100 in clean, recent bills as a reserve, because once you’re in the country you can’t get more money from an ATM.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

✈️ The backpacker research shortcutEritrea Travel Guide

An offline-friendly backpacking guide with optimized travel routes, ranked highlights, transport advice, and the best areas to stay.
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The digital guide (245 pages) contains:
✅ 56 highlights, ranked by travel appeal
✅ Optimized 5, 10 & 15-day travel routes
✅ Cities, national parks, landmarks, beaches
✅ How to get around
✅ Offline-friendly for travel without Wi-Fi
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📅 Plan smarter in minutes, not weeks
✅ Month by month travel advice
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🗺️ Go to the right places, skip the overrated ones
✅ Honest pros & cons of destinations
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🛏️ Travel smoothly without rookie mistakes
✅ Best areas to stay
✅ Transport systems explained simply
✅ Common scams & safety advice
✅ SIM cards, money & practical tips

🌍 Understand the country, not just visit it
✅ Culture & traditions
✅ 52 Essential phrases & customs
✅ Festivals worth planning around
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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas to base yourself

Eritrea has no real backpacker hostel scene, so budget travelers sleep in simple family-run pensions and small hotels, typically 300 to 750 nakfa (US$20 to 50) for a private room with a bathroom. In Asmara, the blocks around Harnet Avenue in the city center hold the most options and put you within walking distance of the cafés, the cathedral and the evening passeggiata, though rooms facing the avenue can be noisy, while leafy Gejeret is quieter and residential but a 15 to 25 minute walk from the action. On the coast in Massawa, the old town on Massawa Island has the atmosphere and the cheapest … read more 👉
Eritrea has no real backpacker hostel scene, so budget travelers sleep in simple family-run pensions and small hotels, typically 300 to 750 nakfa (US$20 to 50) for a private room with a bathroom. In Asmara, the blocks around Harnet Avenue in the city center hold the most options and put you within walking distance of the cafés, the cathedral and the evening passeggiata, though rooms facing the avenue can be noisy, while leafy Gejeret is quieter and residential but a 15 to 25 minute walk from the action. On the coast in Massawa, the old town on Massawa Island has the atmosphere and the cheapest rooms but basic facilities, whereas Taulud offers more reliable air conditioning and calmer streets a short causeway walk away.

If you enjoy meeting fellow travelers, consider choosing hostels with high ratings for atmosphere. On the other hand, if you prefer having your own space, a hotel might be a better option.

🚌 Getting aroundHow to travel within the country

Crossing Eritrea comes down to cheap but slow public buses or a private car with driver at roughly US$80 to 150 a day. The bus gets you everywhere that matters for a few dollars. A car buys flexibility, photo stops and freedom from 6 a.m. departures. Either way, foreigners need a paid travel permit from the Ministry of Tourism in Asmara for any trip outside the capital, and checkpoints on every main road will ask for it.
  • Intercity buses: These run from the main bus station in Asmara to Massawa (115
… read more 👉
Crossing Eritrea comes down to cheap but slow public buses or a private car with driver at roughly US$80 to 150 a day. The bus gets you everywhere that matters for a few dollars. A car buys flexibility, photo stops and freedom from 6 a.m. departures. Either way, foreigners need a paid travel permit from the Ministry of Tourism in Asmara for any trip outside the capital, and checkpoints on every main road will ask for it.
  • Intercity buses: These run from the main bus station in Asmara to Massawa (115 km, 3 to 4 hours down the escarpment), Keren (about 90 km, 2.5 to 3 hours), Mendefera (about 1.5 hours) and Dekemhare (about 1 hour), and Barentu or Tesseney in the western lowlands (7 to 10 hours). Fares run roughly 30 to 150 nakfa (US$2 to 10 at the fixed rate of 15 nakfa per US$1). Seats are tight and the buses old. Buy tickets at the station the afternoon before, because morning buses fill fast and leave when full, often from 5:30 or 6 a.m.
  • Car with driver: You can arrange this through Asmara hotels or licensed tour agencies, and fuel is usually included. It is the only practical way to reach Qohaito or Adulis in a day, or to stop along the Massawa road. Expect to pay in US$ cash. Agencies can also handle your permits.
  • Shared taxis: These run fixed routes along Harnet Avenue and the main roads of Asmara for about 5 to 10 nakfa a seat. Flag one down and say your destination before getting in. A private “contract” taxi costs 50 to 150 nakfa across town, so agree on the price first.
  • City buses: Asmara’s municipal buses cost 1 to 2 nakfa. They are crowded at commute hours but cover the whole city.
  • Bicycles: Locals cycle everywhere in Asmara, which is flat, at 2,300 meters and has little traffic. Guesthouses or street repair stalls can rent you one for around 50 to 100 nakfa a day. Remember the altitude on the hills.
When you apply at the Ministry of Tourism, list every destination you plan to visit on a single permit. It is normally issued within a day, and adding places later means another trip to the office.
Asmara International Airport (ASM) sits about 6 km (4 miles) south of the city center in Eritrea, and the cheapest reliable way in is the city bus along Airport Road, though most arriving travelers take a taxi.
  • City bus (20 to 30 minutes, about 2 to 5 nakfa / under US$0.35): catch it on the main road just outside the terminal and pay the conductor in small nakfa notes, but services thin out in the evening and stop by around 8 pm.
  • Taxi (10 to 15 minutes, about 200 to 300 nakfa / US$13 to 20): taxis wait outside arrivals and there are no meters, so agree the fare in nakfa before you load your bag.
Many international flights land in the small hours, so change enough cash at the airport bank counter for the taxi and ask your hotel to arrange a pickup in advance, since there is no ride-hailing app to fall back on.
⚠️ Prices and routes can change, so take this as a rough guide and ask for local advice when you arrive.
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🔒 Safety (risk Level: medium)Is Eritrea safe to visit?

Safety for solo travelers, including women and LGBTQ+ individuals
Eritrea has very little street crime, and Asmara is one of the safest capitals in Africa to walk around, even after dark. The real risks are bureaucratic: you need travel permits outside Asmara, the border areas with Ethiopia and Djibouti are off-limits and in places mined, and photographing government or military sites can lead to detention. Solo women rarely face more than curious looks, though modest dress helps. LGBTQ+ travelers should know that same-sex relations are illegal and socially taboo, so discretion is necessary.


Full official government travel advisory (live updates)
View details 👉
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source: www.gov.uk

✈️ VisaUnderstanding entry rules

Nearly all nationalities need a visa to visit Eritrea, and it must be arranged before travel, because visas on arrival are only granted with prior approval through a local sponsor or licensed tour operator. Apply at the nearest Eritrean embassy or consulate with your passport, application form, photos, a confirmed itinerary or hotel booking and the fee, and allow several weeks for processing.

source: gov.uk
⚠️ Visa requirements can change over time, so always check the latest visa requirements with the official embassy or government website before you travel.

🎒 What to pack?What you'll need while traveling

Packing for Eritrea means planning for two climates at once: Asmara sits at 2,300 meters with chilly nights and strong sun, while Massawa and the Red Sea coast regularly pass 40°C with heavy humidity in summer. Light, breathable layers plus one warm layer for highland evenings will cover most trips. Dress is conservative, so bring clothes that cover shoulders and knees, and women will want a scarf for visiting Orthodox churches and mosques. Since you cannot use cards or international ATMs, and imported goods like sunscreen, medicines and camera gear are hard to find, bring everything you need from home, along with printed copies of your passport, visa and bookings.

Apart from this country specific advice, I have also crafted a general packing list that should help on any trip. authorOver the years, I've learned the importance of packing minimally. It's so much easier to jump on the back of a truck or squeeze yourself into the last spot of a minibus without that supersized backpack. If you're headed to a warm destination, leave your winter jacket at home; for colder regions, opt for thin thermal underlayers. Instead of packing your entire wardrobe, bring just three sets of clothes, as laundry facilities are available everywhere.

View the full list 👉

🙋 FAQTravel questions about Eritrea

Trip Planning

Planning a backpacking route through Eritrea can be tricky — you need to balance must-see places, travel times, budget, and how long to stay in each destination. Our free personalized Eritrea itinerary planner creates a route based on your travel style, trip duration, and interests, so you can spend less time researching and more time exploring.



Personal tip: I normally search on good rating for atmosphere (for meeting people) and location (for easy exploring). Cleanliness as a bonus.


Travel Essentials

For Eritrea, make sure routine vaccinations (MMR, tetanus-diphtheria, polio) are current, and get hepatitis A and typhoid, since food and water hygiene varies outside Asmara. Hepatitis B and rabies are also recommended for longer stays or rural travel, and meningitis vaccination is worth considering in the dry season. A yellow fever certificate is required if you arrive from a country with yellow fever risk. Malaria is present in the lowlands below about 2,200 meters, including Massawa and the west, so take antimalarials for those areas, though Asmara itself has no malaria risk.


vaccination requirements
When I first started traveling, I often spent part of my first day in a new country hunting for a local SIM card. While this can still be slightly cheaper, it also takes time and planning.

These days, it's much simpler to install an eSIM before leaving home. Once you arrive in Eritrea, you can activate it immediately and have mobile data from the moment you land — which is especially useful for ordering transport or navigating away from busy airports.

There are many providers nowadays, and price differences are usually small. I personally go with Holafly, as it offers excellent network coverage throughout the country and strong global coverage, so you can manage multiple countries from a single app.


HolaFly eSim

Culture & Customs

Eritrean society is conservative and courteous, and both Christian and Muslim traditions shape daily life. Accept an invitation to a coffee ceremony if you can and stay for the customary three rounds. Eat and pass food with your right hand, and dress modestly, especially in churches, mosques and rural areas. Remove your shoes before entering a mosque or Orthodox church, and women should cover their heads. Always ask before photographing people, and never photograph soldiers, checkpoints, government buildings or infrastructure. Avoid discussing politics, national service or the government in public, since this can put locals at risk. Respect fasting periods, such as Wednesdays and Fridays for Orthodox Christians and Ramadan for Muslims, by not eating ostentatiously in front of fasting people. Public displays of affection are frowned upon, and same-sex couples should avoid any visible affection.
Trying traditional food is always a great way to experience the culture. Here are some must-try dishes for Eritrea.
  1. Zigni with taita: A slow-cooked stew of beef or lamb in berbere, the chili and spice blend, served on taita, the spongy sourdough flatbread made from teff or sorghum. It is Eritrea’s signature dish, eaten by hand from a shared platter, and it marks family meals and celebrations.
  2. Shiro: A smooth, spiced stew of ground chickpea or broad bean flour, often bubbling in a small clay pot. It is cheap and filling, and it is the everyday staple during the many Orthodox fasting days, when meat and dairy are off the table.
  3. Ful: Mashed fava beans topped with oil, onion, chili, tomato and sometimes yogurt or egg, scooped up with fresh bread. It is the standard breakfast in Asmara cafes and a reminder of the country’s ties across the Red Sea.
  4. Kitcha fit-fit: Torn pieces of thin baked flatbread tossed with spiced butter and berbere, usually served with yogurt. It is a classic breakfast and comfort food in highland homes.
  5. Tsebhi derho: A rich chicken stew with hard-boiled eggs, cooked in a deep berbere sauce. Families prepare it for holidays such as Christmas and Easter, after long fasts.
  6. Pasta al sugo: Spaghetti or lasagna with a spicy tomato and meat sauce, a legacy of the Italian colonial period. It is on almost every menu in Asmara and is often eaten alongside taita.
  7. Coffee ceremony (bun): Green beans are roasted over coals, ground by hand and brewed in a clay jebena, with frankincense burning beside it. It is the core ritual of Eritrean hospitality, served in rounds with popcorn or bread.
Tap water in Eritrea is not considered safe for travelers, even in Asmara, where the supply is irregular and treatment varies. Many locals drink it boiled or filtered, but visitors should stick to bottled water such as the local Sabur mineral water, which is sold everywhere. A filter bottle or purification tablets are a good backup outside the cities.
The main language in Eritrea is Tigrinya. Backpacking is way more rewarding if you know a bit of the local language, so I'd suggest brushing up on the basics just in case your Tigrinya skills have become a bit rusty.

Want to understand locals better?
The complete Travel Guide for Eritrea includes 52 essential words and phrases — greetings, thank-yous, ordering food, transport, numbers, and common local expressions you'll actually hear.

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English is widely understood in Asmara, because secondary and university education in Eritrea is taught in English, so hotel staff, younger people and most shopkeepers along Harnet Avenue can help you. Outside the capital and in rural villages, English drops off sharply and Tigrinya dominates, with Arabic useful in Massawa and the lowlands and Italian still spoken by some older Asmarinos. Mobile data is limited and expensive, so download an offline Tigrinya phrasebook before arrival and learn a few words such as “selam” (hello) and “yekenyeley” (thank you).

Money & Payments

The local currency of Eritrea is ERN (Nfk).
Eritrea is a cash-only country for travelers: international ATMs do not exist and foreign credit or debit cards are not accepted, even at most hotels. Bring all the money you need for your trip in US dollars or euros, in clean, recent notes, as these are the easiest currencies to exchange. The nakfa is fixed at 15 per US$1, and you must declare your foreign currency on arrival and keep the form. Change money only at banks or the official Himbol exchange offices in Asmara and at the airport, and keep every receipt, because you may be asked to account for your spending when you leave. The black market is illegal and carries real risk of arrest. Some hotels and tour agencies require foreigners to pay in US$ cash, so keep a stash of small dollar bills.
Tipping in Eritrea is appreciated but not deeply ingrained, and locals rarely tip in cafes beyond leaving small change. In tourist restaurants and hotels, 5 to 10 percent or rounding up the bill is a kind gesture. Drivers and guides on private tours typically expect around US$5 to 10 a day.

🧩 Nearby countriesOther countries to combine with Eritrea

We 💚 feedbackIs Eritrea worth visiting?

Eritrea asks for patience. You will wait for permits, carry wads of cash, and go days without reliable internet. In return you get a capital where a solo walk at midnight feels normal and strangers invite you for coffee without wanting anything back. The downside is that improvising is close to impossible. I would go sooner rather than later.

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The information on this page is based on in-depth research, insights shared by experienced travelers, and feedback from the local travel community in Eritrea. While every effort is made to keep the information accurate and current, conditions can change — so if you spot anything incorrect or outdated, please get in touch.



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