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North Korea 🇰🇵

backpacking Asia North Korea 🇰🇵A fully guided Pyongyang itinerary with metro stations and the DMZ.

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Backpacking North Korea in 2027

A complete guide including when and where to go, costs, transport, itineraries, and practical travel advice.
What a trip here is really like

Backpacking North Korea
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 18, 2026

Your day starts with a guide already waiting in the hotel lobby. Every visitor to North Korea travels on a pre-agreed itinerary with at least two Korean guides and a driver, and walking off alone is not allowed. Most foreign groups sleep at the Yanggakdo Hotel, which stands on an island in the Taedong River.

The reasons to come are concrete: Pyongyang’s monumental center, the deep Soviet-built metro, Kaesong’s Koryo-era tombs and the DMZ seen from the northern side. The food is better than expected. At Okryu-gwan I had a steel bowl of buckwheat noodles in broth so cold it made my teeth ache, and the waitress leaned over to show me how much vinegar and mustard to add. The challenges are plain: tour-only travel, strict photo rules, Western access that has opened and closed repeatedly since 2020, and a US government ban on its own citizens visiting.

China’s Dandong, across the Yalu, and South Korea both let you wander freely. Here nothing is spontaneous. North Korea suits patient, politically curious travelers comfortable with structure, and frustrates anyone who needs independence or unscripted conversation.

👉 Get the 📖 Travel Guide of North Korea

Pyongyang (Kim Il Sung Square, Juche Tower, Mansudae Grand Monument)

Every trip to North Korea starts and ends in Pyongyang, reached by Air Koryo from Beijing in about two hours or by overnight train from Dandong. Days run on a set route: bowing and laying flowers at the Mansudae bronze statues, riding the deep Puhung and Yonggwang metro stations, the lift up the Juche Tower. Streets are wide and quiet, and evenings stay inside your hotel. It suits first-timers who want structure.

Kaesong and the DMZ (Kaesong, Panmunjom, Koryo Museum)

Roughly 160 km south on the Reunification Highway, about three hours by tour bus, Kaesong was the capital of the Koryo dynasty and kept a lane of tiled-roof hanok houses. The Koryo Museum occupies the old Songgyungwan Confucian academy, and the Tomb of King Kongmin sits on a hillside west of town. At Panmunjom you see the armistice halls from the northern side. Best for travelers who care about history over spectacle.

Myohyangsan (Hyangsan, International Friendship Exhibition, Pohyon Temple)

About 2.5 to 3 hours north of Pyongyang by bus, this forested valley holds the International Friendship Exhibition, a vast hall built into the mountain to display gifts sent to the Kim leaders. Shoe covers go on, voices drop, and photos are off. Nearby, Pohyon Temple dates from the 11th century, and marked trails climb to waterfalls. It suits travelers who want some walking between the formal stops.

East Coast (Wonsan, Masikryong, Mount Kumgang)

The drive east to Wonsan takes 3 to 4 hours over the mountains, often with a stop at the Masikryong ski resort. Wonsan is a port city with a long beach strip and the new Kalma resort, so far opened mainly to Russian groups. Mount Kumgang, a further stretch south, has granite peaks and the Kuryong Falls trail but appears on fewer itineraries. Suited to longer tours and people who like sea air.

Mount Paektu (Samjiyon, Lake Chon)

A charter flight of about an hour links Pyongyang with Samjiyon, a rebuilt model town near the Chinese border. From there you reach the 2,744-meter summit of Paektu and the crater lake of Chon, central to state mythology as the revolution’s birthplace. Snow limits visits to roughly June to September. It is the most remote, most expensive add-on, right for travelers who want the far edge.
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Why go?What sets this destination apart

Architecture

North Korea offers a rare chance to see a capital built almost entirely to one political vision. Pyongyang was rebuilt from near-total destruction after 1953, and its skyline mixes socialist realism, Soviet-influenced modernism … read more 👉
North Korea offers a rare chance to see a capital built almost entirely to one political vision. Pyongyang was rebuilt from near-total destruction after 1953, and its skyline mixes socialist realism, Soviet-influenced modernism and newer pastel towers on Mirae Scientists Street and Ryomyong Street. The 105-story Ryugyong Hotel, the Arch of Triumph (taller than its Paris counterpart) and the 170-meter Juche Tower all sit within a short drive. Kaesong adds Koryo-dynasty tombs and tiled houses. I would ride the lift up the Juche Tower on a clear morning, when the whole planned grid lies flat beneath you.

Uniqueness

Very few places feel as sealed off as North Korea. Foreign visitors have no access to the global internet, and nearly all advertising on the streets is political, mostly red slogans and painted murals. Traffic is light enough … read more 👉
Very few places feel as sealed off as North Korea. Foreign visitors have no access to the global internet, and nearly all advertising on the streets is political, mostly red slogans and painted murals. Traffic is light enough that pedestrians cross wide avenues without hurrying, and morning music drifts from loudspeakers in some neighborhoods. Even small daily scenes, students cycling home in uniforms, workers tending roadside fields, carry weight because you see so little else. Visiting on a national holiday such as 15 April can mean watching or joining mass dances on Kim Il Sung Square.

⭐ HighlightsHighlights of North Korea

  • Pyongyang Metro: The escalator descends for several minutes, around 100 meters underground, and warm air rises to meet you. At Puhung and Yonggwang stations, chandeliers hang over marble platforms, mosaics of the leaders fill the end walls, and the day’s newspaper is pinned behind glass for commuters to read.
  • Mansudae Grand Monument: Two bronze statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, about 20 meters tall, stand on a hill above the city. Groups buy flowers, line up and bow together. The square goes quiet enough to hear wrapping paper rustle, and photos must frame the statues whole.
  • Panmunjom: From the northern side, the blue conference huts sit directly on the Military Demarcation Line. A Korean People’s Army officer gives the briefing in a clipped voice, and the low concrete curb marking the border is only a few centimeters high, which is somehow more unsettling than a wall.
  • Kaesong Koryo Museum: Housed in the former Sunggyungwan, a Confucian academy founded in the Koryo period, with ginkgo
… read more 👉
  • Pyongyang Metro: The escalator descends for several minutes, around 100 meters underground, and warm air rises to meet you. At Puhung and Yonggwang stations, chandeliers hang over marble platforms, mosaics of the leaders fill the end walls, and the day’s newspaper is pinned behind glass for commuters to read.
  • Mansudae Grand Monument: Two bronze statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, about 20 meters tall, stand on a hill above the city. Groups buy flowers, line up and bow together. The square goes quiet enough to hear wrapping paper rustle, and photos must frame the statues whole.
  • Panmunjom: From the northern side, the blue conference huts sit directly on the Military Demarcation Line. A Korean People’s Army officer gives the briefing in a clipped voice, and the low concrete curb marking the border is only a few centimeters high, which is somehow more unsettling than a wall.
  • Kaesong Koryo Museum: Housed in the former Sunggyungwan, a Confucian academy founded in the Koryo period, with ginkgo and zelkova trees shading the courtyards. Gravel crunches underfoot, and the scale is human after Pyongyang’s plazas. Lunch nearby is often pansanggi, a spread of small dishes in brass bowls.
  • International Friendship Exhibition: Built into a mountainside at Myohyang, the halls hold tens of thousands of gifts from foreign leaders, including an armored limousine from Stalin and a basketball from Madeleine Albright. You put on shoe covers at the entrance, and the bronze doors are heavy enough to need a push from both hands.
Further out, Mount Chilbo, Mount Kuwol and the Sinchon Museum appear on longer tours, and I would pick Mount Chilbo first for its granite pinnacles above the east coast.
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But North Korea offers more...

Discover and compare all of its highlights per category

🧭 RoutesSuggested travel routes through North Korea

The 5-Day Capital and DMZ Route


Five days of North Korea at its most choreographed, from marble metro stations to the silent halls of the leaders’ mausoleum. A night in an old Koryo town and a morning at the border with South Korea round it off.
  • Pyongyang’s monuments and metro
  • Kumsusan Palace of the Sun
  • Kaesong’s folk hotel
  • Panmunjom on the Demilitarized Zone

👉 explore this 5-day route

The 10-Day Mountains and East Sea Route


Ten days that swap the capital’s avenues for forested valleys and long sandy beaches on the east coast. It suits travelers who want hiking boots on their feet as often as a guide at their side.
  • The International Friendship Exhibition at Mount Myohyang
  • Wonsan and Songdowon beaches
  • The Kuryong Falls trail on Mount Kumgang
  • Rungrado 1st of May Stadium

👉 explore this 10-day route

The 15-Day Volcano to Border Route


Fifteen days running from Pyongyang’s backstage corners to a crater lake on the Chinese border and the granite coast of the far northeast. You finish by crossing the Tumen … read more 👉

The 5-Day Capital and DMZ Route


Five days of North Korea at its most choreographed, from marble metro stations to the silent halls of the leaders’ mausoleum. A night in an old Koryo town and a morning at the border with South Korea round it off.
  • Pyongyang’s monuments and metro
  • Kumsusan Palace of the Sun
  • Kaesong’s folk hotel
  • Panmunjom on the Demilitarized Zone

👉 explore this 5-day route

The 10-Day Mountains and East Sea Route


Ten days that swap the capital’s avenues for forested valleys and long sandy beaches on the east coast. It suits travelers who want hiking boots on their feet as often as a guide at their side.
  • The International Friendship Exhibition at Mount Myohyang
  • Wonsan and Songdowon beaches
  • The Kuryong Falls trail on Mount Kumgang
  • Rungrado 1st of May Stadium

👉 explore this 10-day route

The 15-Day Volcano to Border Route


Fifteen days running from Pyongyang’s backstage corners to a crater lake on the Chinese border and the granite coast of the far northeast. You finish by crossing the Tumen River into China, seeing parts of the country few groups ever reach.
  • Paektu Mountain and Lake Chon
  • A village homestay at Mount Chilbo
  • Industrial Chongjin
  • Rason’s border markets and coast

👉 explore this 15-day route

🌤️ When to go?Weather, seasons, and timing

The best time to visit North Korea is April to May or September to October, when Pyongyang sits between roughly 15 and 25°C, skies stay mostly dry and the big national holidays bring parades and mass events (though those event dates also push tour prices up). The northeast (Rason, Chongjin) and the Mount Paektu area run several degrees colder than Pyongyang and Kaesong, and Paektu itself is realistically reachable only from about June to September.
  • Spring (April to May): Highs of 15 to 24°C, blossoms along the Taedong River and peak demand around the Pyongyang Marathon and the 15 April Day of the Sun. Marathon packages sell out months ahead and carry a premium; early May gives you the same weather with fewer group departures.
  • Summer and monsoon (June to August): Humid highs near 29°C, with the heaviest rain in July. Good for the Wonsan coast and Mount Paektu, poor for long road days, since flooding can cut routes.
  • Autumn (September to October): Crisp air, clear light and October foliage at Myohyang and Kumgang. Foundation Day (9 September) and Party Foundation Day (10 October) are peak dates; mid-September weekdays are usually easier to book.
  • Winter (November to March): Pyongyang lows reach minus 10 to minus 15°C. Very few foreign visitors, frequent operator discounts, bare landscapes and patchy heating.
I’d book only with an operator that confirms current border access in writing, and pack thermal layers even for October, because heating outside Pyongyang’s big hotels is unreliable.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: good for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: good for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: highly recommended for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: good for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
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💰 Costs (as of 2026)Typical budget expectations

Backpacking North Korea costs €140 to €250 a day, because the only legal way in is a prepaid guided tour that bundles your hotel, meals, transport and guides into one package price.
That makes North Korea the most expensive country in its neighborhood by a wide margin. A frugal backpacker spends roughly €35 to €60 a day in northeast China and €60 to €90 in South Korea. Here the tour company sets nearly every price before you leave Beijing, so saving money comes down to which tour you book and how much you spend on extras. Since 2020 the borders have been mostly closed to Western tourists, with only brief reopenings such as Rason and the Pyongyang Marathon, so check that your operator is actually running departures before you plan around these figures.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodation€0 extra (included); €15 to €30 a night single supplementThere are no hostels or dorms. Group tours put you in twin rooms at assigned hotels such as the Yanggakdo or Koryo in Pyongyang. Sharing a twin with another traveler avoids the single supplement, which usually runs €100 to €300 on a week-long tour.
Meals€0 extra (included); €5 to €20 a day for extrasThree meals a day are part of the
… read more 👉
Backpacking North Korea costs €140 to €250 a day, because the only legal way in is a prepaid guided tour that bundles your hotel, meals, transport and guides into one package price.
That makes North Korea the most expensive country in its neighborhood by a wide margin. A frugal backpacker spends roughly €35 to €60 a day in northeast China and €60 to €90 in South Korea. Here the tour company sets nearly every price before you leave Beijing, so saving money comes down to which tour you book and how much you spend on extras. Since 2020 the borders have been mostly closed to Western tourists, with only brief reopenings such as Rason and the Pyongyang Marathon, so check that your operator is actually running departures before you plan around these figures.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodation€0 extra (included); €15 to €30 a night single supplementThere are no hostels or dorms. Group tours put you in twin rooms at assigned hotels such as the Yanggakdo or Koryo in Pyongyang. Sharing a twin with another traveler avoids the single supplement, which usually runs €100 to €300 on a week-long tour.
Meals€0 extra (included); €5 to €20 a day for extrasThree meals a day are part of the package, and so are set dishes like Pyongyang cold noodles (naengmyon) or Kaesong’s bronze-bowl pansanggi. You can’t wander off to street stalls. When your guides allow a stop at Pyongyang’s Kwangbok Area Supermarket, snacks and drinks cost €1 to €5, paid in North Korean won exchanged on the spot.
Local transport€0 extra in-country; €150 to €450 one-way to get inYour tour bus and the Pyongyang Metro ride come with the package. Getting there is the big variable: the Beijing to Pyongyang train costs about €150 to €250 one-way, while an Air Koryo flight on the same route runs about €250 to €450. I would take the train in at least one direction, since it saves money and you watch the countryside go by the window for hours.
Activities€100 to €200 a day (tour price)The tour fee is your activity budget. Short Pyongyang tours start around €700 to €1,000 for 4 to 5 days, and longer trips to Kaesong and the DMZ or Mount Paektu go above €1,500. Special events cost the most: Mass Games tickets ranged from about €100 to €800 by seat class.
Miscellaneous€10 to €25 a dayTips for guides and the driver run about €5 to €10 a day per traveler. A Taedonggang beer at a hotel bar costs €1 to €3, a set of stamps €3 to €10, and a printed propaganda poster €10 to €30. The tourist card adds €50 to €80 once.
Total Daily Budget€140 to €250A shared-room group tour plus tips and small souvenirs lands near €140 a day. A private tour, a single room or an event trip pushes you to €250 or more. Bring euros or Chinese yuan in small notes, because foreign cards don’t work here.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

✈️ The backpacker research shortcutNorth Korea Travel Guide

An offline-friendly backpacking guide with optimized travel routes, ranked highlights, transport advice, and the best areas to stay.
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The digital guide (203 pages) contains:
✅ 49 highlights, ranked by travel appeal
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✅ Month by month travel advice
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✅ Best areas to stay
✅ Transport systems explained simply
✅ Common scams & safety advice
✅ SIM cards, money & practical tips

🌍 Understand the country, not just visit it
✅ Culture & traditions
✅ 52 Essential phrases & customs
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🛏️ Where to stay?Areas travelers tend to prefer

There are no hostels or budget guesthouses in North Korea, because every foreign visitor must book through a licensed tour operator that assigns state-approved hotels as part of a package, so your bed is bundled into the €140 to €250 daily cost rather than chosen separately. In Pyongyang, most groups stay on Yanggak Island, which sits in the Taedong River with its own bars, bowling, and casino but keeps you cut off from the streets, or in Central Pyongyang near the main train station, where you are closer to the big monuments and get a better window onto city life, though nights are just as quiet. … read more 👉
There are no hostels or budget guesthouses in North Korea, because every foreign visitor must book through a licensed tour operator that assigns state-approved hotels as part of a package, so your bed is bundled into the €140 to €250 daily cost rather than chosen separately. In Pyongyang, most groups stay on Yanggak Island, which sits in the Taedong River with its own bars, bowling, and casino but keeps you cut off from the streets, or in Central Pyongyang near the main train station, where you are closer to the big monuments and get a better window onto city life, though nights are just as quiet. Outside the capital, towns like Kaesong and Wonsan have a small number of simpler hotels that trade comfort and hot-water reliability for a calmer, more local setting.

If you enjoy meeting fellow travelers, consider choosing hostels with high ratings for atmosphere. On the other hand, if you prefer having your own space, a hotel might be a better option.

🚌 Getting aroundWhat moving around is really like

In North Korea, every foreign visitor travels in a vehicle arranged by the tour operator, with two local guides and a driver assigned for the whole trip. Independent travel, self-drive and hopping on local buses are not permitted, so your choice comes down to how you enter the country and which add-ons your tour includes.
  • Tour minibus or coach: Included in the package price. Typical drives are Pyongyang to Kaesong and the DMZ (about 170 km, 2.5 to 3 hours), Pyongyang to Wonsan (3.5 to 4 hours) and
… read more 👉
In North Korea, every foreign visitor travels in a vehicle arranged by the tour operator, with two local guides and a driver assigned for the whole trip. Independent travel, self-drive and hopping on local buses are not permitted, so your choice comes down to how you enter the country and which add-ons your tour includes.
  • Tour minibus or coach: Included in the package price. Typical drives are Pyongyang to Kaesong and the DMZ (about 170 km, 2.5 to 3 hours), Pyongyang to Wonsan (3.5 to 4 hours) and Pyongyang to Mount Myohyang (about 2.5 hours). Highways are wide but rough, with long patched stretches and military checkpoints. Toilet stops are scheduled, so use every one offered.
  • International train: The Dandong to Pyongyang run covers roughly 220 km in 6 to 8 hours including border checks, and the full Beijing route takes about 24 hours. Tickets are booked only through your tour operator, typically US$150 to 300 one way depending on route and berth. Service has been suspended for long periods, so confirm it is running before planning around it. Customs on board inspect phones, books and cameras thoroughly.
  • Air Koryo international flights: Beijing, Shenyang and Vladivostok are the usual gateways, about 1.5 to 2 hours in the air, at roughly US$250 to 450 one way. Your operator books the seat and the ticket is collected with your tourist card. Expect older Tupolev or Antonov aircraft alongside newer jets.
  • Domestic charter flights: Used on some itineraries for Samjiyon and Mount Paektu (about 1 hour from Pyongyang) or the east coast. They add roughly US$300 to 600 per person and only run when enough travelers sign up, so book this as a dedicated tour departure.
  • Pyongyang metro and tram: Tourists ride a few stations as a guided excursion, included in the tour. The local fare is a token amount in won, and the deep stations double as civil defense shelters. Keep your camera pointed at the mosaics and away from soldiers.
If you want to cover the north and the east coast in one trip, I would pay for the charter flight to Samjiyon and spend the saved road hours at Kaesong instead.
Pyongyang Sunan International Airport (FNJ) sits about 24 km (15 miles) north of central Pyongyang, and in North Korea the only reliable way into the city is the transfer your tour operator arranges, which is already included in your package price.
  • Tour group coach (30 to 40 minutes, included in tour price) Your guides wait in the arrivals hall and walk the whole group to a coach parked outside, with no ticket or cash needed.
  • Private car transfer (25 to 35 minutes, included in private tour price) Travelers on solo or private tours are met by their two guides and a driver at arrivals, and this is booked through the agency before you fly, never on the spot.
Public buses, trams, and street taxis are not available to foreigners on this route and ride-hailing apps do not exist here, but since your guides meet every flight regardless of the hour, a late arrival only means confirming your flight number with the agency before departure so the pickup is scheduled correctly.
⚠️ Prices and routes can change, so take this as a rough guide and ask for local advice when you arrive.
🚀 Don’t waste time on the road.
We’ll generate a route that minimizes unnecessary travel and fits your available days.

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🔒 Safety (risk Level: high)Staying safe while traveling

Safety for solo travelers, including women and LGBTQ+ individuals
North Korea has very little street crime against foreigners, and since solo travelers are always accompanied by two guides, theft or harassment is rare, including for women. The real risk is legal: unauthorized photography, damaging leader images, leaving religious material behind or wandering away from your guides can lead to detention, and several foreigners have been held for months or years for such acts. Same-sex relations are not explicitly criminalized, but LGBTQ+ identities are not publicly acknowledged at all, so discretion is the safe approach and public displays of affection by anyone are frowned upon. Many governments advise against all travel and cannot offer consular help, so check your own country’s advice and register with an embassy representing your interests (often Sweden for Western nationals).
safety image

source: www.gov.uk

✈️ VisaUnderstanding entry rules

Yes, almost every foreign visitor needs a visa, usually issued as a separate tourist card, to visit North Korea, and it can only be obtained through an approved tour operator working with the state travel company. The operator submits your passport details, photo and employment information, then the tourist card is issued in Beijing, Shenyang or at a DPRK embassy shortly before departure. Tourism has been suspended or restricted to select nationalities for long periods, US passport holders need a special validation from the US State Department, and South Korean citizens cannot visit as tourists.

source: gov.uk
⚠️ Visa requirements can change over time, so always check the latest visa requirements with the official embassy or government website before you travel.

🎒 What to pack?What to wear and bring

Packing for North Korea means planning for a sharp continental climate: winters in Pyongyang regularly drop to minus 10 to minus 15°C, and July and August are hot, humid and rainy, so layers and a solid rain shell matter more than gear for rough terrain. Days involve a lot of walking around monuments, museums and mountain paths at places like Myohyang and Kumgang, so bring comfortable but presentable shoes. Pack at least one smart outfit (collared shirt and trousers, or a modest dress or skirt) for formal visits such as the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun, where jeans, shorts and flip-flops are not allowed. Leave behind anything religious, South Korean media, GPS devices and books about the country, since customs search luggage carefully, and bring all medication, toiletries and spare batteries because you cannot buy reliable replacements.

Apart from this country specific advice, I have also crafted a general packing list that should help on any trip. authorOver the years, I've learned the importance of packing minimally. It's so much easier to jump on the back of a truck or squeeze yourself into the last spot of a minibus without that supersized backpack. If you're headed to a warm destination, leave your winter jacket at home; for colder regions, opt for thin thermal underlayers. Instead of packing your entire wardrobe, bring just three sets of clothes, as laundry facilities are available everywhere.

View the full list 👉

🙋 FAQThings travelers often ask

Trip Planning

Planning a backpacking route through North Korea can be tricky — you need to balance must-see places, travel times, budget, and how long to stay in each destination. Our free personalized North Korea itinerary planner creates a route based on your travel style, trip duration, and interests, so you can spend less time researching and more time exploring.



Personal tip: I normally search on good rating for atmosphere (for meeting people) and location (for easy exploring). Cleanliness as a bonus.


Travel Essentials

For North Korea, make sure routine vaccinations (measles-mumps-rubella, diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis, polio, flu) are up to date, and get hepatitis A and typhoid because food and water hygiene outside top hotels is unreliable. Hepatitis B and rabies are worth considering for longer stays, and Japanese encephalitis is advised if you visit rural areas in summer. Tuberculosis and malaria (in some southern border areas) are present, so check with a travel clinic 6 to 8 weeks before departure, and follow any additional health screening your tour operator requests at entry.


vaccination requirements
When I first started traveling, I often spent part of my first day in a new country hunting for a local SIM card. While this can still be slightly cheaper, it also takes time and planning.

These days, it's much simpler to install an eSIM before leaving home. Once you arrive in North Korea, you can activate it immediately and have mobile data from the moment you land — which is especially useful for ordering transport or navigating away from busy airports.

There are many providers nowadays, and price differences are usually small. I personally go with Holafly, as it offers excellent network coverage throughout the country and strong global coverage, so you can manage multiple countries from a single app.


HolaFly eSim

Culture & Customs

In North Korea, respect for the leaders is non-negotiable: bow when your group does at statues like those on Mansu Hill, buy flowers to lay there when your guide suggests it, and photograph statues in full, never cropping off feet or heads or mimicking their poses. Never fold, crumple, sit on or throw away newspapers or materials showing the leaders’ images. Do ask before photographing people, and do not photograph soldiers, checkpoints, construction sites or scenes of poverty. Avoid political debate, jokes about the leadership and the term “North Korea” in conversation with guides, who prefer “Korea” or “the DPRK”. Never hand out religious literature, South Korean items or leaflets, and never slip away from the group. Dress modestly at monuments and museums, women may find shoulder-baring tops and short skirts draw disapproval in conservative settings, and same-sex couples should keep affection private, as should everyone else.
Trying traditional food is always a great way to experience the culture. Here are some must-try dishes for North Korea.
  1. Pyongyang naengmyeon: Chewy buckwheat noodles served in an icy, slightly tangy beef or pheasant broth with sliced meat, egg, pear and radish. It is the capital’s signature dish, eaten year-round, and locals add mustard and vinegar at the table.
  2. Pyongyang onban: Warm rice topped with shredded chicken, mushrooms and a mung bean pancake, all drowned in hot chicken broth. Traditionally eaten in winter and at celebrations, it shows the milder, less fiery style of northern Korean cooking.
  3. Taedonggang sungeo-guk: A peppery grey mullet soup named after the Taedong River that runs through Pyongyang. It is served to honored guests and often appears at banquets for visitors.
  4. Injogogi bap: Sheets of “artificial meat” made from soybean pulp, wrapped around rice and coated in a spicy sauce. Born in the lean 1990s, it is now a popular cheap street snack and tells you a lot about recent North Korean history.
  5. Kimchi: Fermented cabbage or radish, usually less chili-heavy than in the south and sometimes served in a cold, watery brine. Every household makes a winter batch in late autumn, a ritual called kimjang.
  6. Haeju bibimbap: Rice mixed with seasoned vegetables, chicken and seaweed, a regional specialty from the port city of Haeju in South Hwanghae Province.
Tap water in North Korea is not safe for travelers to drink, and locals in Pyongyang and the provinces usually boil it first. Stick to bottled water, which is sold in hotels, tour restaurants and foreign-currency shops for roughly US$0.50 to 1.50 a bottle, and use it for brushing your teeth too. A filter bottle is a sensible backup for long rural drives, but bottled water is easier to rely on throughout the trip.
The main language in North Korea is Korean. Backpacking is way more rewarding if you know a bit of the local language, so I'd suggest brushing up on the basics just in case your Korean skills have become a bit rusty.

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English in North Korea is spoken mainly by your assigned tour guides, many of whom trained at Pyongyang universities and speak it well, plus a few hotel reception and shop staff in the capital. Beyond that circle, even among younger people, conversational English is rare, and in rural areas it is close to nonexistent. Chinese is the foreign language most often understood by staff in hotels and shops, with Russian a distant second among older people and on the northeast border. Learn a handful of Korean phrases such as annyeong hasimnikka (hello) and kamsahamnida (thank you), and load an offline Korean dictionary on your phone, since foreign SIM cards and mobile data do not work for visitors.

Money & Payments

The local currency of North Korea is KPW (₩).
There are no ATMs foreigners can use in North Korea, and international credit and debit cards do not work anywhere, so bring all the cash you need for the trip. The tour itself is paid in advance by bank transfer to your operator, so the cash covers drinks, souvenirs, optional activities and tips. Bring euros, US dollars or Chinese yuan in small, clean, untorn notes; all three are accepted in hotels, foreign-currency shops and tourist restaurants, and change often comes back in a mix of currencies or occasionally in sweets. Visitors generally cannot obtain or spend North Korean won, apart from a few places such as some Pyongyang supermarkets where a supervised exchange desk is available. Budget US$200 to 500 for a week depending on how many souvenirs and drinks you buy, and never try changing money privately with locals, which is illegal and risky for both sides.
Tipping is not part of everyday life for North Koreans, but tour groups are expected to tip their guides and driver at the end of the trip, usually around US$5 to 10 per traveler per day, pooled and handed over in an envelope. Restaurants, hotels and shops in North Korea do not expect tips, though small gifts such as cigarettes, chocolate or quality snacks for guides are appreciated.

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📸 PhotosWhat it looks like on the ground

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Photographed by: Johan Kruseman

Observations and takeaways

How a smelly towel does the trick to smuggle anything into North Korea

How a smelly towel does the trick to smuggle anything into North Korea

North Korea | North Korea! Or should I say just Korea, since, as I learned, Korea is actually one country where the southern part still needs to be “liberated”. It’s an interesting way of looking at the world, for sure. As we reached the last Chinese town, there were only two bridges separating us from Korea. Or maybe it was more the river separating us, and th...
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Meeting the entire North Korean national football team U19 on the train

Meeting the entire North Korean national football team U19 on the train

North Korea | On the train, I met the North Korean National Team for boys under 19. It was super interesting to talk and play cards with them since it was one of the few opportunities I had to “freely” interact with Koreans. One boy had bumped his little toe during a match and had a small wound. The team doctor, Doctor An, took no half measures and applied every...
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Meeting the Chief General Manager and our personal private guide

Meeting the Chief General Manager and our personal private guide

North Korea | And here, I learned that Koreans love titles. Besides Doctor An, there was also the Chief General Manager on board. When I asked about the responsibilities of a Chief General Manager, she weightily answered that she arranged the food for the team. A few moments later, I was considered part of the team too and had a beer in one hand and dried fish i...
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Elevators programmed like gold fishes

Elevators programmed like gold fishes

North Korea | The hotel, like everything else, was special. It was fully set up for Western visitors, located on an island to make escaping difficult (more on that in a minute), and had all the amenities we foreigners would expect: a marble entrance with a large aquarium, eight elevators, a snooker center, a ping pong area, a bowling alley, and, how could I forg...
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A 4cm high wall separating North and South Korea

A 4cm high wall separating North and South Korea

North Korea | The first full day started with a visit to the demilitarized zone (DMZ), the border separating North and South Korea. Contrary to what I expected, the wall was just a 5cm high and 15cm wide threshold in an ironically peaceful-looking green lush surrounding, full of trees and chirping crickets. According to the northern part of Korea (as with anythi...
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We 💚 feedbackThe bottom line on traveling here

North Korea is calmer, quieter and more ordinary at street level than the headlines suggest, and the best surprise is how much humor your guides bring once the formal first day passes. I would bring a small photo book of your hometown and family, because it starts real conversations faster than any question. Build trust with your guides early by following the photo rules without fuss, since a relaxed guide is far more willing to add a walk, a market stop or a longer chat.

✈️ When did I visit North Korea?
As part of my 1.5 year travel around the world trip, I visited North Korea in August 2015. I had never expected I was able to get in. While my visit dates back, this guide is continuously refined using feedback from locals and current backpackers (last update: 18 October 2026)

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in North Korea, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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👋 Meet the founderWho’s Behind Take Your Backpack?

Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

The goal is to provide realistic, experience-driven guidance — not generic itineraries — so you can explore destinations with better context, clearer expectations, and more confidence.