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Johan Kruseman
That evening, I met Baba further down the Ganges. He had visibly never washed his hair, wore a long robe, and claimed to be holy. I dared to doubt that and poked his shoulder twice to debunk it. He laughed and invited me to his house. We followed the Ganges, and a few minutes later, he said, “we’re here.” ‘Funny’ enough, he was homeless, and his ‘house’ was a concrete shelter that he shared with two other vagrants and seven dogs.
In the middle of the shelter, a large pot was simmering. “Food...” he said. After the first disappointment, I quickly adjusted my expectations that this would be a 5-Michelin star meal. “...for the dogs,” he laughed. And for the second time, this country surprised me that those who have little give the most to others.
When I asked how he made money, he replied that passersby always gave him something. “5 rupees, ok! 10 rupees, ok! 50 rupees, moi, still ok! 100 rupees, not ok!” He saw my puzzled look and explained, “5 or 10 rupees, in my pocket, ok! 50 rupees, hmmmm, still in my pocket, also ok, but when I get 100 rupees, I buy wine, not ok!” Hahaha, wonderfully honest. But he didn’t want the 50 rupees I offered him. “Only from tourists, not from friends.”
Traveled route: Ganges, Varanassi, Agra, Taj Mahal, Buland Darwaza, Jaipur, Fatehpur Shekhawati, Ajmer, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Bundi, Udaipur, Mumbai, Goa, Hampi
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