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India
Fooled twice in a row by Baba

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Next story: Sharing burgers with somebody traveling by a raft
author
Johan Kruseman
Updated on 7 September 2024


That evening, I met Baba further down the Ganges. He had visibly never washed his hair, wore a long robe, and claimed to be holy. I dared to doubt that and poked his shoulder twice to debunk it. He laughed and invited me to his house. We followed the Ganges, and a few minutes later, he said, “we’re here.” ‘Funny’ enough, he was homeless, and his ‘house’ was a concrete shelter that he shared with two other vagrants and seven dogs.

In the middle of the shelter, a large pot was simmering. “Food...” he said. After the first disappointment, I quickly adjusted my expectations that this would be a 5-Michelin star meal. “...for the dogs,” he laughed. And for the second time, this country surprised me that those who have little give the most to others.

When I asked how he made money, he replied that passersby always gave him something. “5 rupees, ok! 10 rupees, ok! 50 rupees, moi, still ok! 100 rupees, not ok!” He saw my puzzled look and explained, “5 or 10 rupees, in my pocket, ok! 50 rupees, hmmmm, still in my pocket, also ok, but when I get 100 rupees, I buy wine, not ok!” Hahaha, wonderfully honest. But he didn’t want the 50 rupees I offered him. “Only from tourists, not from friends.”

 


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Traveled route: Ganges, Varanassi, Agra, Taj Mahal, Buland Darwaza, Jaipur, Fatehpur Shekhawati, Ajmer, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Bundi, Udaipur, Mumbai, Goa, Hampi

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Sharing burgers with somebody traveling by a raft

In the context of extraordinary travelers, the Pole I met that same evening certainly deserves an honorable mention. He always brings clothes, a tent and a paddle as luggage. He then builds a raft, usually from an old door and four large jerry cans,

India
Did this story inspire you to go to India? Read more on what India has to offer, what the best months are for visiting and check the handy links for backpacking there.

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