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Réunion🇷🇪 | townsCilaosLentil terraces, 400 hairpins, thermal baths, Roche Merveilleuse | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Cilaos
🏆 Top picktown ranked #2
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Cilaos is known for its lentils, grown on the steep terraced plots of the cirque and sold in little shops along the main street, next to bottles of the local wine and jars of chouchou preserves. The town sits in a volcanic cirque in the south-west of Réunion's interior, at about 1,200 meters. The road in is the star and the hurdle: roughly 400 hairpin bends carved into basalt walls, with a view down the gorge at every other turn. Queasy passengers suffer, and everyone else stares. Once there, the air is cool, mornings often start in mist, and the streets smell of woodsmoke and cooked lentils. Hikes to Piton des Neiges and Taïbit start nearby, and thermal baths offer relief for tired legs. Evenings are quiet, with a handful of guesthouses and a few restaurants, so meeting other walkers is easy over dinner. It is no party town. The last hour of daylight turns the Dimitile ridge dark green above the corrugated rooftops.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #2 town in Réunion
The unique appeal for travelers

Cilaos gives you the Réunion interior without the logistics of a multi-day trek. You sleep in a guesthouse, walk out the door and be on a trail within minutes. The town works best for hikers and slow travelers who want two or three nights, enough for the big summit day plus a lighter one. The famous Piton des Neiges route starts a long drive away, but the closer ridges, waterfalls and the Bras Rouge gorge walks are straight from town. Small family-run guesthouses keep the atmosphere easygoing, and you will end up swapping route advice at shared dinner tables. Food is a draw in itself: lentil cari and the local wine are the things to try, and the cool temperatures make hearty plates welcome after a day on the trails. Nightlife is basically nonexistent, so it suits early risers rather than late-night … read more 👉
Cilaos gives you the Réunion interior without the logistics of a multi-day trek. You sleep in a guesthouse, walk out the door and be on a trail within minutes. The town works best for hikers and slow travelers who want two or three nights, enough for the big summit day plus a lighter one. The famous Piton des Neiges route starts a long drive away, but the closer ridges, waterfalls and the Bras Rouge gorge walks are straight from town. Small family-run guesthouses keep the atmosphere easygoing, and you will end up swapping route advice at shared dinner tables. Food is a draw in itself: lentil cari and the local wine are the things to try, and the cool temperatures make hearty plates welcome after a day on the trails. Nightlife is basically nonexistent, so it suits early risers rather than late-night crowds. Solo travelers fit in easily because nearly everyone is out hiking at dawn. If you only have a day, you will feel rushed, because the drive up is slow and the best views reward a longer stay.

💡 HighlightsWhat this place is best known for

  1. Roche Merveilleuse: A short climb above town to a rocky viewpoint over the whole cirque, with the town roofs far below and the peaks rising around you. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours on foot round trip. Go early morning, before cloud rolls in. Free.
  2. Thermes de Cilaos: The historic spa where the town's mineral springs have been used for treatments since the 19th century. Soak after hiking or book a massage. Expect about €15 to 35 depending on treatment, and plan 1 to 2 hours. Afternoons are calm.
  3. Maison de la Broderie: The local workshop-museum for Cilaos embroidery, a lacework tradition brought by Madeira-trained nuns. You can see the fine needlework up close and buy small pieces. Entry is around €2 to 4, and 30 to 45 minutes is plenty.
  4. Sentier de la Cascade Bras Rouge: A walk along the red gorge to a
… read more 👉
  1. Roche Merveilleuse: A short climb above town to a rocky viewpoint over the whole cirque, with the town roofs far below and the peaks rising around you. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours on foot round trip. Go early morning, before cloud rolls in. Free.
  2. Thermes de Cilaos: The historic spa where the town's mineral springs have been used for treatments since the 19th century. Soak after hiking or book a massage. Expect about €15 to 35 depending on treatment, and plan 1 to 2 hours. Afternoons are calm.
  3. Maison de la Broderie: The local workshop-museum for Cilaos embroidery, a lacework tradition brought by Madeira-trained nuns. You can see the fine needlework up close and buy small pieces. Entry is around €2 to 4, and 30 to 45 minutes is plenty.
  4. Sentier de la Cascade Bras Rouge: A walk along the red gorge to a waterfall in a rocky cleft, easy enough for most walkers. Plan 2 to 3 hours, free, and best after dry spells when the path is firm.
  5. Main street lentil and wine shops: Stroll the central street to taste cilaos wine, buy lentils and sample chouchou products. Tastings are often free or just a few euros, and 30 to 60 minutes is enough. Mornings are most active.
From Cilaos, day trips reach Îlet à Cordes, a tiny hamlet reached by a steep road, and the Taïbit pass toward Mafate. For a first visit, Roche Merveilleuse gives the best view for the least effort.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

🏘️ NeighborhoodsNeighborhood guide to Cilaos

Cilaos is small enough to cover on foot, but the streets tilt hard, so expect your calves to have opinions by evening.
  • Town center (around the church and Rue des Écoles): A tight knot of bakeries, lentil-and-sausage cafés, pharmacies and the tourist office, all within a five-minute stroll. Mornings smell of fresh baguettes and wet pavement when cloud rolls in. Its payoff is a cheap plate of lentils (lentilles de Cilaos) and a rest on a sloped square ringed by green peaks.
  • Îlet à Cordes and the lower lanes: Steep residential streets drop toward a hamlet of corrugated-roof houses, chickens and vegetable plots. It is quiet, with only dogs and the river far below for sound. Allow an hour each way, with a punishing climb back, and you get a glimpse of daily life with the Piton des Neiges as backdrop.
… read more 👉
Cilaos is small enough to cover on foot, but the streets tilt hard, so expect your calves to have opinions by evening.
  • Town center (around the church and Rue des Écoles): A tight knot of bakeries, lentil-and-sausage cafés, pharmacies and the tourist office, all within a five-minute stroll. Mornings smell of fresh baguettes and wet pavement when cloud rolls in. Its payoff is a cheap plate of lentils (lentilles de Cilaos) and a rest on a sloped square ringed by green peaks.
  • Îlet à Cordes and the lower lanes: Steep residential streets drop toward a hamlet of corrugated-roof houses, chickens and vegetable plots. It is quiet, with only dogs and the river far below for sound. Allow an hour each way, with a punishing climb back, and you get a glimpse of daily life with the Piton des Neiges as backdrop.
  • Thermal quarter (Les Thermes): Up the road toward the old spa, the air smells faintly of mineral water. It is calm, a bit faded, and good for a slow wander past the stone buildings and a soak or massage. You leave loose-limbed after days of hiking.
  • Bras-Rouge and the road out: A short walk down the valley road brings you to the red-streaked river gorge and the wine terraces. Traffic is occasional, and the hairpins hum with scooters. You earn a view of the cirque walls glowing in late light, plus a glass of local Cilaos wine in the shop.

⌛️ 1 day1-day itinerary for Cilaos

8:00 AM, Main street bakery and lentil shops: Start with coffee and a pastry on the central street, then browse the shops for lentils and local wine while the mist is still burning off. It gives you a feel for the town before you climb.
9:00 AM, Roche Merveilleuse: Walk up from town on the signed path, about an hour of steady climbing. The viewpoint opens over the cirque and the rooftops below. Take water and a layer, since it is cooler on top.
11:30 AM, Maison de la Broderie: Return to town and visit the embroidery workshop. The fine stitched pieces take months to make, and seeing them explains why prices are what they are.
1:00 PM, Lunch: Order a lentil cari at a family restaurant. It is rich, smoky and filling, and exactly what you want after a morning of climbing.
2:30 PM, Bras Rouge gorge … read more 👉
8:00 AM, Main street bakery and lentil shops: Start with coffee and a pastry on the central street, then browse the shops for lentils and local wine while the mist is still burning off. It gives you a feel for the town before you climb.
9:00 AM, Roche Merveilleuse: Walk up from town on the signed path, about an hour of steady climbing. The viewpoint opens over the cirque and the rooftops below. Take water and a layer, since it is cooler on top.
11:30 AM, Maison de la Broderie: Return to town and visit the embroidery workshop. The fine stitched pieces take months to make, and seeing them explains why prices are what they are.
1:00 PM, Lunch: Order a lentil cari at a family restaurant. It is rich, smoky and filling, and exactly what you want after a morning of climbing.
2:30 PM, Bras Rouge gorge trail: Walk the path along the red gorge toward the waterfall. This is quieter than the main viewpoint, and the rock walls glow rust-colored in the afternoon. Return at an easy pace.
5:00 PM, Thermes de Cilaos: Finish with a soak or massage to loosen your legs. The warm mineral water feels especially good as evening cools.
7:30 PM, Dinner in town: End with a simple meal at your guesthouse, where hikers trade plans for tomorrow.

🌤️ When to go?Seasonal considerations and timing

The austral winter, from May to October, is the easiest time for hiking Cilaos.
  • Dry season (May to October): Clear mornings, cool nights down to 5 to 10°C (41 to 50°F) and days around 15 to 22°C (59 to 72°F). Daylight lasts roughly 11 to 12 hours. Trails like Taïbit and Piton des Neiges are at their firmest. Weekends and school holidays in July and August fill the guesthouses, so book early.
  • Hot, wet season (November to April): Days reach 22 to 28°C (72 to 82°F), with afternoon cloud, heavy downpours and cyclone risk from January to March. Landslides can close the road in. Prices drop and trails empty, but views vanish by midday.
  • Shoulder months (April-May, October-November): Mild temperatures, thinner crowds and the best rates, with only occasional showers.
Start hikes at dawn year-round, because … read more 👉
The austral winter, from May to October, is the easiest time for hiking Cilaos.
  • Dry season (May to October): Clear mornings, cool nights down to 5 to 10°C (41 to 50°F) and days around 15 to 22°C (59 to 72°F). Daylight lasts roughly 11 to 12 hours. Trails like Taïbit and Piton des Neiges are at their firmest. Weekends and school holidays in July and August fill the guesthouses, so book early.
  • Hot, wet season (November to April): Days reach 22 to 28°C (72 to 82°F), with afternoon cloud, heavy downpours and cyclone risk from January to March. Landslides can close the road in. Prices drop and trails empty, but views vanish by midday.
  • Shoulder months (April-May, October-November): Mild temperatures, thinner crowds and the best rates, with only occasional showers.
Start hikes at dawn year-round, because cloud usually swallows the cirque by late morning.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: good for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: highly recommended for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
when-to-go

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🛏️ Where to stay?Choosing the right base

The center of Cilaos, within five minutes of the church, is the best place for a budget bed. Guesthouses (chambres d’hôtes), small dorm-style gîtes and a few simple hostels cluster there, with dorm beds typically €20 to 35 a night. Everything you need is steps away: bakeries, the supermarket, the bus stop and trail signage. It is safe to walk back after dinner, and the streets are quiet by 9 pm, though church bells and early scooters can wake light sleepers.
The upper road toward the thermal quarter is the second option. Fewer places, but they are calmer, with mountain air and little traffic, and … read more 👉
The center of Cilaos, within five minutes of the church, is the best place for a budget bed. Guesthouses (chambres d’hôtes), small dorm-style gîtes and a few simple hostels cluster there, with dorm beds typically €20 to 35 a night. Everything you need is steps away: bakeries, the supermarket, the bus stop and trail signage. It is safe to walk back after dinner, and the streets are quiet by 9 pm, though church bells and early scooters can wake light sleepers.
The upper road toward the thermal quarter is the second option. Fewer places, but they are calmer, with mountain air and little traffic, and some include breakfast or dinner for a modest extra. The trade-off is a steeper walk back to the center, and unlit streets after dark mean you need a headlamp. Bus stops are a 10 to 15 minute walk.
Book ahead for July, August and long weekends, as the cirque has limited beds. Many gîtes accept cash only, so withdraw euros in Saint-Louis before you ride up. Kitchens are common, which helps you cut meal costs.

🚌 Getting aroundTransportation options and practical tips

A bus ride in Cilaos itself is rarely needed, and the intercity line from the coast costs about €3 to 4, paid in cash to the driver in euros. The town is compact enough to cover on foot, though the slopes are steep and the air thins your breath faster than you expect. Traffic is light, but the 400 curves on the road up from Saint-Louis define the journey.
  • Walking: Free and the best way to feel the place. The center takes ten minutes end to end, and you smell wood smoke and frying dough as you pass houses. Trails start right off the streets, and you reach lookouts in under an hour.
  • Intercity bus (Car Jaune): Runs between Cilaos and Saint-Louis for roughly €3 to 4 one way, about 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes. First departures are early morning, the last usually mid-afternoon, so check
… read more 👉
A bus ride in Cilaos itself is rarely needed, and the intercity line from the coast costs about €3 to 4, paid in cash to the driver in euros. The town is compact enough to cover on foot, though the slopes are steep and the air thins your breath faster than you expect. Traffic is light, but the 400 curves on the road up from Saint-Louis define the journey.
  • Walking: Free and the best way to feel the place. The center takes ten minutes end to end, and you smell wood smoke and frying dough as you pass houses. Trails start right off the streets, and you reach lookouts in under an hour.
  • Intercity bus (Car Jaune): Runs between Cilaos and Saint-Louis for roughly €3 to 4 one way, about 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes. First departures are early morning, the last usually mid-afternoon, so check times at the station. Sit on the right going up for gorge views, and bring something for motion sickness.
  • Hitchhiking and rides: Locals often stop for hikers heading to trailheads like Bras-Rouge. It is free but unreliable, and daylight is your window.
  • Taxi: A short transfer to a trailhead runs about €10 to 25. Book by phone through your guesthouse, as there are few cars waiting.
  • Rental car: From about €30 to 45 a day if you collect it in Saint-Denis or Saint-Pierre. The narrow road with tunnels and drops is manageable if you go slowly, and it gives you freedom to stop at viewpoints like the Pavillon lookout and the Bras-Rouge gorge.
Local bus service within town is minimal, so plan routes on foot and keep buffer time for the last bus down.

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)Typical daily expenses

Cilaos costs about €65 to 85 a day for a backpacker in high season, mostly because food and lodging in the cirque run higher than on the coast. Prices are in euros, and cash is handy for small guesthouses.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodation€20 to 35 (high season), €18 to 28 (low)Dorm beds and shared gîte rooms are limited, and breakfast is sometimes included.
Meals€18 to 30Bakery breakfast around €3, lunch plate of lentils and sausage €10 to 14, supermarket dinner or simple restaurant meal €8 to 15.
Local transport€3 to 10Walking is free, and one bus trip down to Saint-Louis is about €3 to 4. Taxis to trailheads cost €10 to 25.
Basic activities/entry fees€0 to 15Trails are free. Thermal spa treatments and a wine tasting add a few euros to tens.
Miscellaneous€5 to 10Snacks, water
… read more 👉
Cilaos costs about €65 to 85 a day for a backpacker in high season, mostly because food and lodging in the cirque run higher than on the coast. Prices are in euros, and cash is handy for small guesthouses.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodation€20 to 35 (high season), €18 to 28 (low)Dorm beds and shared gîte rooms are limited, and breakfast is sometimes included.
Meals€18 to 30Bakery breakfast around €3, lunch plate of lentils and sausage €10 to 14, supermarket dinner or simple restaurant meal €8 to 15.
Local transport€3 to 10Walking is free, and one bus trip down to Saint-Louis is about €3 to 4. Taxis to trailheads cost €10 to 25.
Basic activities/entry fees€0 to 15Trails are free. Thermal spa treatments and a wine tasting add a few euros to tens.
Miscellaneous€5 to 10Snacks, water refills, a coffee, and sunscreen or a rain poncho.
Total Daily Budget€70Comfortable for dorm, self-catering and hiking.
Buy bread, cheese and fruit at the supermarket and bakeries for trail lunches, which saves roughly €8 to 10 a day compared to eating out.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsExploring the surroundings

Cilaos is a solid base for day hikes and drives, since most sights sit within reach of the main road or a trailhead.
Taïbit and Marla:
A full day on one of the island’s classic cirque hikes: a descent through forest to Marla, with views over the Mafate cirque’s ridges. Expect 6 to 7 hours total, with effort on the return climb. Budget about €10 for food and a taxi to the trailhead. Go from May to October, and start early, because afternoon cloud erases the views.

Piton des Neiges:
The island’s summit at 3,070 m is a long day if you start from Cilaos, about 8 to 10 hours round trip, often done with a night at a hut instead. Most day-trippers go for the first stretch for sunrise-free views and cold mountain air. Costs are low beyond food, around €5 to 10. First-timers often forget layers, since … read more 👉
Cilaos is a solid base for day hikes and drives, since most sights sit within reach of the main road or a trailhead.
Taïbit and Marla:
A full day on one of the island’s classic cirque hikes: a descent through forest to Marla, with views over the Mafate cirque’s ridges. Expect 6 to 7 hours total, with effort on the return climb. Budget about €10 for food and a taxi to the trailhead. Go from May to October, and start early, because afternoon cloud erases the views.

Piton des Neiges:
The island’s summit at 3,070 m is a long day if you start from Cilaos, about 8 to 10 hours round trip, often done with a night at a hut instead. Most day-trippers go for the first stretch for sunrise-free views and cold mountain air. Costs are low beyond food, around €5 to 10. First-timers often forget layers, since the top can drop to near freezing.
👉 Explore Piton des Neiges
Bras-Rouge Gorge:
A short drive or an easy hour’s walk down the road leads to a deep red gorge and a footpath beside the river. It takes half a day, costs almost nothing on foot, and pairs well with local wine tasting afterward. Visit in the dry months, as heavy rain can close sections.

Saint-Louis and the Coast:
Drop down the winding road on the Car Jaune for about €3 to 4 each way, 1.5 hours down, and connect to beaches and markets at Saint-Pierre. It makes a full day with a late return. Check the last bus before you commit.

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

Cilaos is a calm mountain town where crime is low, and the main risks come from the terrain and weather. Petty theft from parked cars at trailheads is the most common problem, so leave nothing visible and carry valuables with you. Solo travelers can walk the center after dark comfortably, though the outer lanes are unlit, so bring a headlamp. Dogs wander some residential streets and are mostly harmless, but avoid approaching unfamiliar ones.
On trails, fog arrives fast and paths turn slick after rain, which causes far more injuries than anything human. Tell your guesthouse where you are going, start early, and carry a rain layer and water. The road up is narrow with blind curves, and drivers cut corners, so keep right and go slowly. Check conditions before hiking, as landslides can close routes … read more 👉
Cilaos is a calm mountain town where crime is low, and the main risks come from the terrain and weather. Petty theft from parked cars at trailheads is the most common problem, so leave nothing visible and carry valuables with you. Solo travelers can walk the center after dark comfortably, though the outer lanes are unlit, so bring a headlamp. Dogs wander some residential streets and are mostly harmless, but avoid approaching unfamiliar ones.
On trails, fog arrives fast and paths turn slick after rain, which causes far more injuries than anything human. Tell your guesthouse where you are going, start early, and carry a rain layer and water. The road up is narrow with blind curves, and drivers cut corners, so keep right and go slowly. Check conditions before hiking, as landslides can close routes after heavy rain. There are no real scams to speak of. Emergency number is 112.

FAQCommon questions from travelers

Cilaos is worth a proper visit, not a quick pass-through, mostly because the road in is an adventure of its own: roughly 400 hairpin bends climb from the coast to a caldera town at about 1,200 meters. Reward comes in the form of the Taïbit and Bras Rouge trails, the Peak of Piton des Neiges as a serious hike, and local lentils, wine and embroidery. The drive from Saint-Louis takes about 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes, so it makes little sense as a stopover unless you stay at least a night.
Two nights is the practical minimum in Cilaos, and three suits most hikers. One day covers the village, the thermal spa area and a walk such as Bras Rouge or the Roche Merveilleuse viewpoint (allow 2 to 3 hours). A second day can go to the Col du Taïbit or the Dimitile ridge (roughly 5 to 7 hours), and a third lets you tackle the Piton des Neiges summit via the Caverne Dufour hut, usually with an overnight stay (hut bunks about €20 to 30 with half board).
Cilaos can be done as a day trip from Saint-Denis, Saint-Pierre or the west coast, but the winding road eats time. Expect about 1 hour 15 minutes to 2 hours each way by car from Saint-Louis or Saint-Pierre, and roughly 2 hours from Saint-Paul. Buses of the Car Jaune network run from Saint-Louis for about €2 to 3, with only a few departures and a last bus back in the late afternoon, so check the timetable and cap your day at about 5 hours on the ground, enough for a viewpoint and lunch but not a big hike.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Réunionnais towns near Cilaos

Explore more nearby:

  • Entre-Deux—Traditional houses, flower gardens, valley setting| 13 km away
  • Salazie—Waterfalls, lush cirque, misty mornings| 14 km away
  • La Plaine-des-Palmistes—Cool plateau, misty forests, gateway to Bélouve| 16 km away

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We 💚 feedbackParting advice and final tips

Cilaos is best in the early morning, when the cirque is clear and the trails are empty before cloud fills in by midday. I would book at least two nights and start walking at first light. Bring a warm layer, because the evenings drop cold quickly.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on in-depth research, insights shared by experienced travelers, and feedback from the local travel community in Réunion. While every effort is made to keep the information accurate and current, conditions can change — so if you spot anything incorrect or outdated, please get in touch.



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