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South Africa🇿🇦 | townsPort St. JohnsWild Coast beaches, river mouth, twin cliffs, forest reserve | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Port St. Johns
🌟 Highlighttown ranked #8
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Port St. Johns is known for its wild Wild Coast scenery: green hills dropping to the Mzimvubu River mouth, empty beaches and two flat-topped cliffs called the Gates. What gets overlooked is how good it is for just being among people, since the hostels here are small and the evenings are social. It sits in South Africa’s Eastern Cape, on the Indian Ocean coast. I expected a polished resort and found a rough, unhurried town with potholes and goats. Roads are bad and the buses are few, so plan on shared taxis and hostel shuttles instead of a rental you’ll resent. Skip the town center for sightseeing, it’s a short errand stop. Spend your time on the beaches and trails. Unlike Coffee Bay, it has a real working town behind the hostels.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #8 town in South AfricaWhy Port St. Johns should be on your travel list

Port St. Johns works because the river, the forest and the sea all meet within a short walk or ride of your bed. You come for the hiking and beach time, and you stay longer than planned because the hostels are small, the people running them know the trails, and you keep running into the same travelers at dinner. Most backpackers linger three to five days, and many stretch that. Mornings can go to Second Beach or a stretch of the Wild Coast hiking routes, afternoons to a swim or a slow lunch, and evenings are low-key: a communal meal, a fire, a few drinks. It suits hikers, solo travelers who want company without a party scene, and slow travelers who like routine. If you need big-city entertainment or smooth transport, it will frustrate you. If you enjoy simple days with clear water and green … read more 👉
Port St. Johns works because the river, the forest and the sea all meet within a short walk or ride of your bed. You come for the hiking and beach time, and you stay longer than planned because the hostels are small, the people running them know the trails, and you keep running into the same travelers at dinner. Most backpackers linger three to five days, and many stretch that. Mornings can go to Second Beach or a stretch of the Wild Coast hiking routes, afternoons to a swim or a slow lunch, and evenings are low-key: a communal meal, a fire, a few drinks. It suits hikers, solo travelers who want company without a party scene, and slow travelers who like routine. If you need big-city entertainment or smooth transport, it will frustrate you. If you enjoy simple days with clear water and green cliffs, it’s one of the best stops on the coast, especially around the Mzimvubu River mouth.

💡 HighlightsPlaces and moments you shouldn't skip

  1. Mount Thesiger and the Gates viewpoint: A short climb above town gives views over the Mzimvubu mouth and the twin cliffs. Go in the morning for clearer air. Free, about 1 to 2 hours.
  2. Second Beach: Wide sand backed by dunes and forest, with a tidal pool at the south end. Swim carefully because of currents. Free to enter, plan 2 to 4 hours, best on calm mornings.
  3. First Beach: The town beach, close to central guesthouses and good for a casual walk and a drink. Free, about 1 hour, best at low tide.
  4. Silaka Nature Reserve: Coastal forest and rocky shore south of town with walking trails, wildlife like zebra and blesbok, and seabird colonies on the cliffs. Entry roughly US$3 to 6, allow 2 to 3 hours.
  5. Mzimvubu River mouth: Walk or take a boat on the river where mangrove-lined banks meet the sea. Fishing
… read more 👉
  1. Mount Thesiger and the Gates viewpoint: A short climb above town gives views over the Mzimvubu mouth and the twin cliffs. Go in the morning for clearer air. Free, about 1 to 2 hours.
  2. Second Beach: Wide sand backed by dunes and forest, with a tidal pool at the south end. Swim carefully because of currents. Free to enter, plan 2 to 4 hours, best on calm mornings.
  3. First Beach: The town beach, close to central guesthouses and good for a casual walk and a drink. Free, about 1 hour, best at low tide.
  4. Silaka Nature Reserve: Coastal forest and rocky shore south of town with walking trails, wildlife like zebra and blesbok, and seabird colonies on the cliffs. Entry roughly US$3 to 6, allow 2 to 3 hours.
  5. Mzimvubu River mouth: Walk or take a boat on the river where mangrove-lined banks meet the sea. Fishing boats and river trips run from town, usually US$10 to 30 depending on the operator, 1 to 2 hours.
For day trips from Port St. Johns, Mkambati Nature Reserve to the north, the Lusikisiki area and the cliffs and beaches around Magwa Falls are worth a long day. Second Beach and First Beach combine easily in one day, with a river walk or a swim between them.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

🏘️ NeighborhoodsWhere things are and how it's laid out

Port St. Johns is small enough to cover on foot or by short minibus hop, but the areas differ sharply, and the town sprawls along a river and hills, which is why you pick your base by mood.
  • Town Center: A compact cluster of shops, a market, banks with ATMs, a few takeaways and the taxi rank. Worth 30 minutes for supplies and cash, not an afternoon. Walkable, but nothing here is the reason you came.
  • Second Beach: The main beach, a short drive or an uphill walk of about 2 km from the center. Swimming is safe only inside the lagoon-side section, because rip currents run strong along the open surf. Cafes and a lively backpacker evening scene sit nearby. Worth the most time.
  • Mpande and Silaka direction: Quiet coastal settlements and forested hills south and east. Hiking, empty sand and dramatic cliffs,
… read more 👉
Port St. Johns is small enough to cover on foot or by short minibus hop, but the areas differ sharply, and the town sprawls along a river and hills, which is why you pick your base by mood.
  • Town Center: A compact cluster of shops, a market, banks with ATMs, a few takeaways and the taxi rank. Worth 30 minutes for supplies and cash, not an afternoon. Walkable, but nothing here is the reason you came.
  • Second Beach: The main beach, a short drive or an uphill walk of about 2 km from the center. Swimming is safe only inside the lagoon-side section, because rip currents run strong along the open surf. Cafes and a lively backpacker evening scene sit nearby. Worth the most time.
  • Mpande and Silaka direction: Quiet coastal settlements and forested hills south and east. Hiking, empty sand and dramatic cliffs, but no shops. Go with a lift or a hired driver, since taxis are infrequent.
  • Agate Terrace and the Mzimvubu mouth: Residential slopes with river views and fishing boats. Skip it unless you want a sunset walk. Good for a slow wander, poor for food or nightlife.

⌛️ 1 daySeeing the highlights in 24 hours

The day moves mostly on foot, with a short taxi hop to the beaches and a long midday pause when the sun is high and swimming gets tiring.
7:30 AM: Mount Thesiger Start with the climb above town for views of the river mouth and the Gates. It is cooler and the light is clearer. Walk down toward the center afterward.
9:30 AM: Town center Pick up supplies and coffee at a local café and watch the taxi rank, where you can see how people actually get around. Keep it short.
11:00 AM: Mzimvubu River mouth Walk to the riverbank and look at the fishing boats and mangroves. A local boatman can take you on a short ride. It is off the usual beach circuit and quiet.
1:00 PM: Lunch and rest Eat something simple, then sit in the shade for a couple of hours. The midday sun is strong and the water is better later. … read more 👉
The day moves mostly on foot, with a short taxi hop to the beaches and a long midday pause when the sun is high and swimming gets tiring.
7:30 AM: Mount Thesiger Start with the climb above town for views of the river mouth and the Gates. It is cooler and the light is clearer. Walk down toward the center afterward.
9:30 AM: Town center Pick up supplies and coffee at a local café and watch the taxi rank, where you can see how people actually get around. Keep it short.
11:00 AM: Mzimvubu River mouth Walk to the riverbank and look at the fishing boats and mangroves. A local boatman can take you on a short ride. It is off the usual beach circuit and quiet.
1:00 PM: Lunch and rest Eat something simple, then sit in the shade for a couple of hours. The midday sun is strong and the water is better later.
3:30 PM: Second Beach Take a taxi or shuttle to the dunes. Swim near the tidal pool, walk the sand and stay as the light softens.
6:00 PM: Hostel evening Head back for a shared meal, a fire and plans for tomorrow.

🌤️ When to go?Weather, crowds, and seasonal trade-offs

  • Summer (December to February): Hot, humid and wet, 22 to 30°C (72 to 86°F), with long daylight and the biggest crowds around Christmas and early January. Beds fill and prices climb sharply.
  • Autumn (March to May): Warm sea, 19 to 26°C (66 to 79°F), fewer people and clear days. Excellent for hiking and diving.
  • Winter (June to August): Dry, sunny and mild, 12 to 22°C (54 to 72°F), with shorter days. Humpback whales and the sardine season bring dolphins and birds along the coast. Rates are lowest, though evenings are cool.
  • Spring (September to November): Warming to 17 to 25°C (63 to 77°F), quiet beaches and rising rainfall by November.
Book ahead for the December school holidays, or arrive in May or September for space and lower prices.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: good for travelingFEBFebruary: good for travelingMARMarch: good for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: excellent for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: highly recommended for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: good for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
when-to-go

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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas and accommodation options

Second Beach and the lanes around it are the best area for a budget bed, because most hostels and backpacker lodges cluster there with dorms from about US$10 to 18. You get a social crowd, shared kitchens, and easy beach access. Evenings can be noisy when bars run late, so ask for a room away from the common area if you want sleep.

The town center is the second option, with a few simple guesthouses and cheaper private rooms around US$20 to 35. It suits you if you rely on taxis, banks and supermarkets, and you arrive by minibus without a pickup. It is quieter at night, though streets empty early … read more 👉
Second Beach and the lanes around it are the best area for a budget bed, because most hostels and backpacker lodges cluster there with dorms from about US$10 to 18. You get a social crowd, shared kitchens, and easy beach access. Evenings can be noisy when bars run late, so ask for a room away from the common area if you want sleep.

The town center is the second option, with a few simple guesthouses and cheaper private rooms around US$20 to 35. It suits you if you rely on taxis, banks and supermarkets, and you arrive by minibus without a pickup. It is quieter at night, though streets empty early and the walk back after dark is better done by a driver than on foot.

Avoid staying far out along the coast unless you have a car or arranged transfers. Taxis there are rare and the nearest shop may be many kilometers away. Book ahead for December and January, when dorms sell out weeks in advance.
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🚌 Getting aroundHow to get around Port St. Johns

Port St. Johns has no train, and minibus taxis and long-distance buses drop you at the taxi rank in the center, so you walk or take a short ride from there. Distances are small, but hills and heat make the walk to the beaches tiring with a pack. Public transport exists but runs on demand rather than schedule, so plan around daylight.
  • Walking: Fine inside the center and good for coastal paths. Avoid walking between areas after dark, because roads are unlit and have no pavement in places.
  • Minibus taxis: The everyday local option, about US$0.50 to 1.50 for short hops and US$3 to 6 to nearby towns like Lusikisiki or Mthatha. They leave when full, mostly in the morning, with few after mid-afternoon. Not worth waiting on after 3 pm.
  • Shuttles and hostel transfers: Many hostels run pickups from Mthatha,
… read more 👉
Port St. Johns has no train, and minibus taxis and long-distance buses drop you at the taxi rank in the center, so you walk or take a short ride from there. Distances are small, but hills and heat make the walk to the beaches tiring with a pack. Public transport exists but runs on demand rather than schedule, so plan around daylight.
  • Walking: Fine inside the center and good for coastal paths. Avoid walking between areas after dark, because roads are unlit and have no pavement in places.
  • Minibus taxis: The everyday local option, about US$0.50 to 1.50 for short hops and US$3 to 6 to nearby towns like Lusikisiki or Mthatha. They leave when full, mostly in the morning, with few after mid-afternoon. Not worth waiting on after 3 pm.
  • Shuttles and hostel transfers: Many hostels run pickups from Mthatha, about 90 km away, for US$10 to 20 a person. Cheaper than a private taxi, and they know the unsigned turns.
  • Hired driver or rental car: A local driver for a half day costs roughly US$20 to 40, a sensible way to reach Silaka or Mpande. Roads are potholed and livestock wander onto them, which is why driving yourself at night is a bad idea.
Uber and metered taxis are not reliable here, so skip waiting for them. Download offline maps, carry small cash, and ask your hostel to call a trusted driver for anything after dark.

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)Travel costs and budget guide for Port St. Johns

Port St. Johns costs about US$40 to 55 a day for a backpacker who stays in dorms, cooks some meals and uses shared transport. Prices rise in December and January, and you pay in rand.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$10 to 18High season sits at the top, with cheaper beds in winter.
MealsUS$10 to 18Takeaways and self-catering from the supermarket keep costs low; restaurant mains are US$6 to 10.
Local transportUS$3 to 8Minibus taxis are cheap, but hired drivers for beaches add up.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$3 to 8Reserve entry is low, and hiking and beaches are free.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$3 to 6Drinks, snacks, sunscreen and data.
Total Daily BudgetUS$45Rough high-season total for one day.
Buy groceries in the center before heading to the beach, since shops near the lodges charge more.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsExploring the surroundings

Port St. Johns works well for day trips, as most sights lie within an hour by road and you can reach them by hostel transfer or hired driver.
Silaka Nature Reserve:
A coastal reserve about 10 km south with zebra, wildebeest and a seal colony at Bomvu Point. Entry is roughly US$3 to 5, and with a driver the half day costs US$20 to 35. Go from April to October for cooler hiking. First timers often skip the coastal trail because of heat, but it is the best part.

Mpande Beach:
A wide, quiet beach about 30 minutes away on rough tracks. The drive suits a high-clearance vehicle and takes a driver who knows the turns, so split US$25 to 40 with others. Pack water and food because there is almost nothing to buy. Visit at low tide for the best walking.

Magwa Falls:
A 144 m waterfall near the tea estates, … read more 👉
Port St. Johns works well for day trips, as most sights lie within an hour by road and you can reach them by hostel transfer or hired driver.
Silaka Nature Reserve:
A coastal reserve about 10 km south with zebra, wildebeest and a seal colony at Bomvu Point. Entry is roughly US$3 to 5, and with a driver the half day costs US$20 to 35. Go from April to October for cooler hiking. First timers often skip the coastal trail because of heat, but it is the best part.

Mpande Beach:
A wide, quiet beach about 30 minutes away on rough tracks. The drive suits a high-clearance vehicle and takes a driver who knows the turns, so split US$25 to 40 with others. Pack water and food because there is almost nothing to buy. Visit at low tide for the best walking.

Magwa Falls:
A 144 m waterfall near the tea estates, around 60 km inland and roughly 1.5 hours each way by road. Costs run about US$30 to 50 for transport and viewpoint fees. Go after rain from November to March for full flow, but expect slick tracks.

Lusikisiki and Hluleka:
Hluleka Nature Reserve lies about 2 hours south, with forest and empty shoreline. Best done early with a rental car or private driver for US$50 to 80 a day, and it is easier with a group.

🛡️ SafetyStaying Safe: What Travelers Should Know

Port St. Johns is generally relaxed, and most problems are petty theft rather than violence. Don’t leave phones, cameras or bags unattended on Second Beach, and lock valuables at your hostel. After dark, avoid walking between the beach and the center, and use a driver your accommodation trusts. Solo travelers do fine here, especially in social hostels, though women should avoid isolated beaches and trails alone. Strong rip currents are a bigger risk than crime, so swim only where locals do and never alone. Some unlicensed guides and sellers on the beach can be persistent, and a polite no works. Carry some cash for ATMs that sometimes run dry, and drive slowly because animals roam on roads.
Check Country Safety

FAQFrequently asked questions about Port St. Johns

Port St. Johns is well worth visiting, as it sits on the Wild Coast with forested hills, empty beaches and a relaxed backpacker scene rather than being a stopover. Second Beach and Silaka Nature Reserve are the main draws, and hostel dorms cost roughly US$10 to 18. The long road in from Mthatha, about 90 km, is part of the reason it stays quiet.
Plan on three to four days in Port St. Johns to cover Second Beach, a Silaka hike and one longer trip such as Mpande or Magwa Falls. Many travelers stay longer because the pace is slow and the hostels are social. Two days works if you only have time for the beach and one reserve visit.
Port St. Johns is not practical as a day trip from Mthatha or Durban, because the drive from Mthatha takes about 1.5 to 2 hours each way and Durban is a full day of roughly 8 to 9 hours. Transfers from Mthatha run about US$10 to 20 a person. Staying at least two nights gives you time for the beaches and hikes.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other South African towns near Port St. Johns

Explore more nearby:

  • Underberg—Drakensberg foothills, farm stalls, Sani Pass gateway| 204 km away
  • St. Lucia—wetland park, hippo sightings, boat cruises| 455 km away
  • Graaff-Reinet—Karoo architecture, Camdeboo National Park, valley viewpoints| 478 km away

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We 💚 feedbackIs it worth it?

Give Port St. Johns at least three nights, because the first day goes to slow transport and settling in. I would stay five if the trails and beaches appeal, and skip squeezing in a long Wild Coast hike on arrival day. Bring cash and patience.

✈️ When did I visit South Africa?
I have visited South Africa, before and after my Zimbabwe trip in 2001.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in South Africa, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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👋 Meet the founderWho’s Behind Take Your Backpack?

Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

The goal is to provide realistic, experience-driven guidance — not generic itineraries — so you can explore destinations with better context, clearer expectations, and more confidence.

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