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Cabo Verde🇨🇻 | beachesPraia de ChavesKilometers of pale sand, Viana dunes, loggerhead patrols, west-coast sunsets | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Praia de Chaves
🌟 Highlightbeach ranked #4
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Long, pale, and wide enough that the hotel rows at its back look small, Praia de Chaves is the beach people picture when they think of Boa Vista. It sits on the island’s west coast, south of Sal Rei, in Cabo Verde. Sand is clean and soft, the dunes behind it give a wild edge, and the crowds thin out fast once you walk past the resort frontage. Swimming needs care: the Atlantic throws shorebreak and currents, so watch the flags and wade in where the waves are gentle. Budget meals and guesthouses are mostly back in Sal Rei, so pack water and snacks. Go in the morning, when the wind is lighter and the sand holds firm underfoot for walking. Past the last sunbeds, the beach is empty, and the only footprints are crab tracks.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #4 beach in Cabo Verde
Why visitors keep coming back

Praia de Chaves earns its stop because of space. The long, open sweep of pale sand lets you walk for an hour without bumping into anyone once you leave the resort frontage, and that is rare on an island with a growing hotel scene. The second draw is the wild setting behind it: dunes and flat desert run right up to the beach, so a swim and a sandy wander sit side by side. Turtle season adds a third reason. From summer into autumn, loggerheads come ashore to nest on this coast, and the night turtle patrols that guides run make the beach something you do after dark as well. Backpackers use it as a pause from Sal Rei’s guesthouse streets, a place to read, bodyboard in gentle spots, and watch the Atlantic roll in. It works best as a half-day stop that fits between other island plans.

💡 HighlightsThe experiences that define the visit

  1. The Long Beach Walk: This is what Chaves is known for. Pale sand runs for kilometers, firm near the waterline, with dunes on the inland side. Walk it at the cooler ends of the day and keep going past the hotel frontage, where the beach turns quiet.
  2. Viana Desert Dunes: Just inland, the sand sheet of Deserto de Viana looks like a Sahara fragment. Tours stop here, but you can also approach on foot or by bike at a gentle pace. Soft, powdery dunes and big silence are the point.
  3. Night Turtle Watching: Loggerhead turtles nest on Boa Vista’s beaches from roughly summer into autumn. Local guided patrols take small groups out after dark, using red light and strict distance rules, so you see a turtle laying eggs without disturbing her. Book through a Sal Rei operator.
  4. Swimming and Bodyboarding in the Atlantic:
… read more 👉
  1. The Long Beach Walk: This is what Chaves is known for. Pale sand runs for kilometers, firm near the waterline, with dunes on the inland side. Walk it at the cooler ends of the day and keep going past the hotel frontage, where the beach turns quiet.
  2. Viana Desert Dunes: Just inland, the sand sheet of Deserto de Viana looks like a Sahara fragment. Tours stop here, but you can also approach on foot or by bike at a gentle pace. Soft, powdery dunes and big silence are the point.
  3. Night Turtle Watching: Loggerhead turtles nest on Boa Vista’s beaches from roughly summer into autumn. Local guided patrols take small groups out after dark, using red light and strict distance rules, so you see a turtle laying eggs without disturbing her. Book through a Sal Rei operator.
  4. Swimming and Bodyboarding in the Atlantic: Waves here are lively and the water is clear and warm for most of the year. Pick a calmer patch, read the flags, and stay within your depth. Strong swimmers get fun shore waves for bodyboarding.
  5. Sunset on the West Coast: The beach faces west, so the sky opens over open water with no hills in the way. Bring a towel, sit on the dry sand above the tideline, and watch the dunes go gold behind you.
Walking the beach and watching the sunset cost nothing, so they are the cheapest items on this list.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near Praia de Chaves

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🌤️ When to go?Choosing the right time of year

  • Winter and Early Spring (December to March): Days run 22 to 27°C (72 to 81°F), nights 17 to 20°C (63 to 68°F), with steady trade winds that kick up sand and chop the surf. Daylight lasts about 11 hours. Humpback whales pass offshore from roughly March to April. Flights and Sal Rei rooms cost the most, especially around Christmas.
  • Hot Season (May to July): Highs reach 28 to 31°C (82 to 88°F) with calmer wind, and the sea warms to around 23 to 25°C (73 to 77°F). Crowds thin and room prices ease. Loggerhead turtles start nesting on the dunes, mostly at night.
  • Late Summer (August to October): Hottest and most humid, 29 to 32°C (84 to 90°F), with short, erratic showers. Daylight stretches to about 13 hours. Turtle nesting peaks, and rooms are the cheapest of the year.
  • November: Winds ease, rain has
… read more 👉
  • Winter and Early Spring (December to March): Days run 22 to 27°C (72 to 81°F), nights 17 to 20°C (63 to 68°F), with steady trade winds that kick up sand and chop the surf. Daylight lasts about 11 hours. Humpback whales pass offshore from roughly March to April. Flights and Sal Rei rooms cost the most, especially around Christmas.
  • Hot Season (May to July): Highs reach 28 to 31°C (82 to 88°F) with calmer wind, and the sea warms to around 23 to 25°C (73 to 77°F). Crowds thin and room prices ease. Loggerhead turtles start nesting on the dunes, mostly at night.
  • Late Summer (August to October): Hottest and most humid, 29 to 32°C (84 to 90°F), with short, erratic showers. Daylight stretches to about 13 hours. Turtle nesting peaks, and rooms are the cheapest of the year.
  • November: Winds ease, rain has mostly passed and rates are still low.
For the best mix of calm weather and quiet sand, I would book November or late April.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: excellent for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: highly recommended for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: fair for travelingOCTOctober: fair for travelingNOVNovember: excellent for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas and accommodation options

Sal Rei is the place to stay for Praia de Chaves, because the beach starts just south of town and the long sand is a 30 to 45 minute walk from the center. Guesthouses and small hostels here cost roughly €15 to 35 a night for a bed or basic room, and the harbor-front streets hold the island’s best cluster of cheap restaurants, bars and tour operators. That makes it the social choice for solo travelers, since you meet people over dinner and on the quad and boat trips that leave from town.

The southern edge of Sal Rei, near the road toward the beach, suits you if you want to be close to the sand … read more 👉
Sal Rei is the place to stay for Praia de Chaves, because the beach starts just south of town and the long sand is a 30 to 45 minute walk from the center. Guesthouses and small hostels here cost roughly €15 to 35 a night for a bed or basic room, and the harbor-front streets hold the island’s best cluster of cheap restaurants, bars and tour operators. That makes it the social choice for solo travelers, since you meet people over dinner and on the quad and boat trips that leave from town.

The southern edge of Sal Rei, near the road toward the beach, suits you if you want to be close to the sand yet still walk to supper. Rooms are quieter and often come with a kitchen or rooftop terrace, which helps for saving money.

Rabil, the old inland town about 10 minutes away by shared taxi, is cheaper and more local, with a few family-run rooms and a pottery workshop. It has little nightlife and no walkable beach, so you will rely on rides. The large all-inclusive resorts at the beach’s northern end are not built for backpackers and sit far from any independent food.

Book ahead from December to March, when the better small places in Sal Rei fill.

🛡️ SafetyTraveler Safety Guide

Praia de Chaves is generally safe, but the Atlantic here is the main thing to respect. The beach faces open ocean, so waves can be big, the shore drops away quickly in places and rip currents form, especially in winter wind. Most swimmers stay near the resort frontage at the northern end, where the water is easier to read, and lifeguards are not guaranteed along the rest. Swim only where you see other people and avoid going out alone.

Sun is strong all year. The beach has almost no natural shade, so bring a hat, reef-safe sunscreen and plenty of water for a long walk. Midday wind can sandblast your legs from December to March.

At night, nesting turtles are present in season, so use a dim red light rather than a torch and keep your distance. Leave valuables at your guesthouse. Opportunistic … read more 👉
Praia de Chaves is generally safe, but the Atlantic here is the main thing to respect. The beach faces open ocean, so waves can be big, the shore drops away quickly in places and rip currents form, especially in winter wind. Most swimmers stay near the resort frontage at the northern end, where the water is easier to read, and lifeguards are not guaranteed along the rest. Swim only where you see other people and avoid going out alone.

Sun is strong all year. The beach has almost no natural shade, so bring a hat, reef-safe sunscreen and plenty of water for a long walk. Midday wind can sandblast your legs from December to March.

At night, nesting turtles are present in season, so use a dim red light rather than a torch and keep your distance. Leave valuables at your guesthouse. Opportunistic theft from unattended bags is uncommon but possible, and the deserted southern stretches are better visited in daylight and in a group.

FAQCommon questions from travelers

Praia de Chaves is about 5 km south of Sal Rei on Boa Vista, and you can walk there in 30 to 45 minutes or take a taxi for roughly €3 to 5. Fly into Boa Vista’s airport, which is around 5 km from Sal Rei, and a taxi from there costs about €8 to 12. Direct flights come from Europe, and inter-island hops from Sal take about 30 minutes.
Praia de Chaves is excellent for long beach walks and decent for swimming near the resort end, but waves and currents can be strong, so beginners should wade rather than swim far out. Surfing and bodyboarding work on swell days, and kiteboarders prefer the windy winter months. Snorkeling is better in the calmer coves and boat trips around Sal Rei, where trips cost about €25 to 45.
Praia de Chaves is free to visit, and there is no entry fee for the open sand or the dunes behind it. Sunbeds and umbrellas at the resort end cost around €5 to 10 a day, or you can bring your own towel. Meals at the beach bars run about €6 to 12, while Sal Rei is cheaper.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Cape Verdean beaches near Praia de Chaves

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We 💚 feedbackWhat to keep in mind

Praia de Chaves looks like a resort beach, but the quiet stretch beyond the last sunbeds is the best part, and most first-timers turn back too soon. I would walk further than feels necessary, then loop back along the firm sand near the water. Bring your own water and a hat, because shade is rare.

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The information on this page is based on in-depth research, insights shared by experienced travelers, and feedback from the local travel community in Cabo Verde. While every effort is made to keep the information accurate and current, conditions can change — so if you spot anything incorrect or outdated, please get in touch.



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