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Canada🇨🇦 | national parksGwaii Haanas National Park ReserveHaida village poles, Hotspring Island, Burnaby Narrows, boat-only access | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Gwaii Haanas Reserve
🌟 Highlightnational park ranked #9
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

A mug of black tea, steeped over a camp stove and sipped on a cobble beach while a Watchmen guardian pointed out a bald eagle, cost me about US$2 in tea bags and fuel, and it tasted of woodsmoke and salt. Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve sits in the southern Haida Gwaii archipelago, off the northern coast of British Columbia in Canada. Access is the hard part: it is boat or floatplane only, and daily visitor numbers are capped, so book your spot months ahead rather than hoping to turn up. Kayakers and sailboat charters see the most; experienced travelers pick a guided boat drop to save paddling days. There are no maintained trails to speak of, but the old-growth cedar, black bears and abandoned village poles are worth every logistical headache. Low tide at SGang Gwaay exposes ribbed shell middens.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #9 national park in CanadaWhy visitors keep coming back

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve suits backpackers who like to plan their own route, because it has no roads and no crowds, and the permit system is simple once you understand it. Every visitor must attend a short orientation and carry a reservation, so you can build your own itinerary around tide tables and weather instead of a tour schedule. The reason most people come is the Haida heritage: the weathered mortuary poles at SGang Gwaay, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the hot springs at Hotspring Island (Gandll K’in), where you soak in a rock pool facing the open ocean. Camping is limited to a handful of designated sites, so you carry everything in and everything out. Paddlers get the intimate version, with otters, sea lions and humpback whales close enough to hear them breathe.

💡 HighlightsDon't-miss highlights and experiences

  1. SGang Gwaay (Ninstints): The remains of a Haida village on a small island, with leaning mortuary and house poles still standing among moss and spruce. A Haida Watchman is stationed here in season and walks visitors around.
  2. Hotspring Island (Gandll K’in): Several natural pools of hot water open to the sea, with a boardwalk and a Watchman cabin. Soaking at dusk with eagles overhead is hard to beat.
  3. Tanu: A village site with fallen house frames and a few weathered poles, quieter and more atmospheric than the famous ones.
  4. Skedans (K’uuna Llnagaay): Accessible beach landing with a line of old house pits and standing poles above a rocky shore.
  5. Burnaby Narrows: A tidal channel at low tide, packed with starfish, anemones, urchins and chitons on every rock. You can paddle through it carefully at high water.
… read more 👉
  1. SGang Gwaay (Ninstints): The remains of a Haida village on a small island, with leaning mortuary and house poles still standing among moss and spruce. A Haida Watchman is stationed here in season and walks visitors around.
  2. Hotspring Island (Gandll K’in): Several natural pools of hot water open to the sea, with a boardwalk and a Watchman cabin. Soaking at dusk with eagles overhead is hard to beat.
  3. Tanu: A village site with fallen house frames and a few weathered poles, quieter and more atmospheric than the famous ones.
  4. Skedans (K’uuna Llnagaay): Accessible beach landing with a line of old house pits and standing poles above a rocky shore.
  5. Burnaby Narrows: A tidal channel at low tide, packed with starfish, anemones, urchins and chitons on every rock. You can paddle through it carefully at high water.
  6. Windy Bay (Hlk’yah GaawGa): A short boardwalk into old-growth Sitka spruce and cedar, and the site of the Legacy Pole raised in 2013.
  7. Louise Island and Moresby Island coastlines: Sheltered coves for camping, with sea otters, black bears and humpbacks passing offshore.
For a first visit, start with SGang Gwaay, since it is the one place where the Haida story and the setting combine fully.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

🌤️ When to go?Choosing the right time of year

Late May through early September is the window when Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is open to visitors, and the staffed season is the only practical time to go.
  • May to June: Highs of 12 to 16°C (54 to 61°F), frequent drizzle, long days of 16 or more hours, and the fewest people on the water. Bears and eagles are active at low tide.
  • July and August: The driest stretch, with highs of 15 to 20°C (59 to 68°F) and calmer seas for kayaking. Permits and tour spots sell out first, and rates peak.
  • September: Cooler at 11 to 16°C (52 to 61°F), with more rain and wind, shorter days and thin crowds. Operators begin winding down.
  • October to April: Storms and no park services. Almost no one travels then.
Book your spot as soon as reservations open in winter, since July dates vanish first.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: below average for travelingFEBFebruary: below average for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: fair for travelingMAYMay: good for travelingJUNJune: highly recommended for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: highly recommended for travelingOCTOctober: fair for travelingNOVNovember: below average for travelingDECDecember: below average for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas to stay in Canada

Inside Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve you sleep in a tent at designated wilderness campsites, or on a guided sailboat or lodge-style trip, and you base the rest of your trip in Haida Gwaii villages.
There are no roads, hotels or shops in the park. Hotspring Island (Gandll K’in Gwaayaay) is closed to camping. Windy Bay is the only Watchmen site where camping is allowed, for one night, and Watchmen also staff sites such as SGang Gwaay, Hotspring Island and Skedans.
Outside the park, Sandspit sits closest and has the airport, a few motels and a campground, and it is where many kayak outfitters … read more 👉
Inside Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve you sleep in a tent at designated wilderness campsites, or on a guided sailboat or lodge-style trip, and you base the rest of your trip in Haida Gwaii villages.
There are no roads, hotels or shops in the park. Hotspring Island (Gandll K’in Gwaayaay) is closed to camping. Windy Bay is the only Watchmen site where camping is allowed, for one night, and Watchmen also staff sites such as SGang Gwaay, Hotspring Island and Skedans.
Outside the park, Sandspit sits closest and has the airport, a few motels and a campground, and it is where many kayak outfitters launch. Queen Charlotte (Daajing Giids) is the main hub, with hostels, B&Bs, guesthouses, groceries and the Parks Canada orientation office, so most backpackers stay a night or two there. Both lie on Moresby and Graham Islands, reached by BC Ferries from Prince Rupert or by flight from Vancouver. Book Queen Charlotte lodging early for July and August.
Best hostels in Canada


Best quality hotels in Canada

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)How expensive it really is

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve costs roughly US$150 to 230 per day for a self-guided backpacker, mostly from transport and the fees.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Park feesUS$25 to 40Daily entry plus a one-time orientation and reservation charge, spread across your days. Fees are lower for youth and free for children.
AccommodationUS$15 to 100Wilderness camping is covered by the fees. Hostels or B&Bs in Queen Charlotte cost about US$40 to 100 a night.
Local transportUS$40 to 70Kayak rental runs roughly US$60 to 90 a day, while a boat drop-off costs far more. Costs shrink when shared.
Food and suppliesUS$25 to 40Groceries in Queen Charlotte are pricey. Bring dehydrated meals and stove fuel for the trip.
Total Daily BudgetUS$150Based on high-season rates. Guided trips cost much more.


source: parks.canada.ca
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🥾 TrailsDiscover Gwaii Haanas Reserve's top trails and natural wonders

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve has no marked backcountry trail network, so most hiking is short walks from boat landings and beaches. Distances are small, but the ground is wet, rooty and often slippery.
  • SGang Gwaay village walk: A guided loop of roughly 1 km, about 1 hour, easy, over a boardwalk and mossy forest path past the poles.
  • Hotspring Island boardwalk: A short and easy walk of about 15 minutes from the landing to the pools, with bare rock and wooden steps.
  • Windy Bay boardwalk: A gentle forest walk of around 30 to 45 minutes among very large old-growth trees, with a Watchman cabin and
… read more 👉
Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve has no marked backcountry trail network, so most hiking is short walks from boat landings and beaches. Distances are small, but the ground is wet, rooty and often slippery.
  • SGang Gwaay village walk: A guided loop of roughly 1 km, about 1 hour, easy, over a boardwalk and mossy forest path past the poles.
  • Hotspring Island boardwalk: A short and easy walk of about 15 minutes from the landing to the pools, with bare rock and wooden steps.
  • Windy Bay boardwalk: A gentle forest walk of around 30 to 45 minutes among very large old-growth trees, with a Watchman cabin and a longhouse.
  • Beach and headland walks: Unmarked scrambles along cobble and sand beaches at low tide, easy to moderate, with black bear and deer tracks to watch for.
Wildlife is plentiful: black bears on the shoreline, bald eagles, sea lions, and humpbacks and orcas offshore. Carry bear spray and use a food storage barrel or hang system at camp.
The park is reached only by boat or floatplane from Sandspit or Moresby Camp, with no public transport inside. Daily visitor numbers are limited, so it stays uncrowded. A park fee, a reservation fee and a mandatory orientation apply, and paperwork is done in advance. Haida Watchmen staff the main heritage sites from late spring through early fall.
⚠️ Hiking info can sometimes be outdated or inaccurate. Before you hit the trail, check the latest conditions with locals. If you do spot anything that's off, I'd love to hear from you, so I can update it for fellow travelers.

🛡️ SafetySafety Tips and Common Scams in Gwaii Haanas Reserve

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is remote, so the main risks are weather and self-reliance rather than crime or dangerous animals. There is no cell coverage, and rescue can take hours or days, so most visitors carry a satellite messenger or marine radio. Seas can turn rough quickly. Kayakers should check tides and forecasts daily, hug sheltered shores, and wait out wind instead of pushing across open channels. Cold water makes capsizing serious, so wear a drysuit or wetsuit. Black bears live here, though no grizzlies; store food in the bear-proof containers or hang it, and keep a clean camp. All visitors must attend the Parks Canada orientation and respect Haida Watchmen guidance at heritage sites. Never touch poles or house remains. Pack rain gear, spare layers and a repair kit.
Check Country Safety

FAQTraveler FAQ

Plan on 5 to 8 days to see Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve properly, since the main sites are far apart by water. A short guided trip to SGang Gwaay and Hot Springs Island takes about 4 to 5 days, while a full kayak trip down the coast takes 7 to 10. Add one day in Queen Charlotte for the orientation and gear checks.
Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve cannot be explored without a boat, because it has no roads or trails linking sites. You can join a guided kayak or sailing trip, charter a boat or floatplane from Queen Charlotte or Sandspit, or paddle your own kayak. Day tours by boat to places like Skedans run from roughly US$150 to 300, and multi-day packages cost far more.
Yes, visitors to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve need a reservation and must attend a Parks Canada orientation before entering. Fees combine a daily entry charge of about US$15 to 25 with a one-time reservation and orientation fee of about US$15 to 30. Book through Parks Canada, ideally months ahead for July and August, since daily visitor numbers are capped.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

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We 💚 feedbackWhat to keep in mind

Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is at its best in July and August, when seas are calmer and Watchmen are at every major site. I would arrive in the first week of July and plan the hot springs for evening, when the day boats have left and the pools are yours.

✈️ When did I visit Canada?
As part of my 1.5 year travel around the world trip, I visited Canada in 2016.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Canada, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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