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Ghana🇬🇭 | festivalsHogbetsotsoAnlo Ewe, Anloga, Notsie exodus, November | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Hogbetsotso
🏆 Top pickfestival ranked #4
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Hogbetsotso is not for travelers who need a polished program, fixed start times or reserved seating. Dates shift, the durbar starts late, and nobody hands out a schedule. That is exactly why backpackers still benefit: you meet the Anlo-Ewe on their own terms. The festival takes place in Anloga and neighboring towns of the Anlo area in the Volta Region of southeastern Ghana, on a sandy coastal strip between the Atlantic and the Keta Lagoon, roughly 3 to 4 hours from Accra. It marks the Anlo escape from the tyrant King Agorkoli of Notsie, with drumming, ritual cleansing and a chiefs’ procession over about a week. I stood in Anloga at noon with red dust on my shins and the smell of wood smoke and fried fish, as agbadza drums pulled the whole street into step. Arrive a day early, carry small cedi notes, and confirm the Saturday with locals, because delays and last-minute price hikes catch out the unprepared.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #4 festival in GhanaWhat makes this festival worth celebrating

Backpackers build routes around Hogbetsotso because it is a living ceremony, not a staged show. The Anlo-Ewe return from across Ghana and abroad, so for a few days the sandy towns around Anloga become a temporary community of families, drummers and chiefs, and a polite visitor is usually welcomed into it. The social energy is warm and easy: someone will explain the meaning of a cloth, hand you a plate, or pull you into a dance circle. Compared with Ghana’s ticketed music events, it is very affordable, since the public events are free and your spending goes mostly to bunks, shared taxis and food. It also fits neatly into a longer Ghana loop: pair it with Keta’s beaches and lagoon, the Volta Region’s waterfalls and hills around Ho, or a crossing to Togo, which is close because the story starts … read more 👉
Backpackers build routes around Hogbetsotso because it is a living ceremony, not a staged show. The Anlo-Ewe return from across Ghana and abroad, so for a few days the sandy towns around Anloga become a temporary community of families, drummers and chiefs, and a polite visitor is usually welcomed into it. The social energy is warm and easy: someone will explain the meaning of a cloth, hand you a plate, or pull you into a dance circle. Compared with Ghana’s ticketed music events, it is very affordable, since the public events are free and your spending goes mostly to bunks, shared taxis and food. It also fits neatly into a longer Ghana loop: pair it with Keta’s beaches and lagoon, the Volta Region’s waterfalls and hills around Ho, or a crossing to Togo, which is close because the story starts at Notsie. Go for the cultural depth, and keep expectations flexible.

💡 HighlightsThe experiences that define the visit

  1. The Grand Durbar of Chiefs: The Saturday highlight in Anloga. Chiefs and queen mothers arrive in palanquins under umbrellas, dressed in Ewe kente and gold, with speeches, libations and drumming. Get there early, because the start is rarely punctual, and bring shade and water.
  2. Nugbidodo, the Ritual Cleansing: Before the main day, the community performs ritual cleansing of the land to clear away evil and bad omens, symbolically starting afresh. Much of it is solemn and private, so ask before photographing anyone.
  3. The Exodus Story: The festival re-enacts the Anlo escape from King Agorkoli of Notsie in present-day Togo, reputedly by walking backward so that pursuers misread the footprints. Elders will often tell it well if you ask politely, and it gives every ceremony meaning.
  4. Agbadza and Borborbor
… read more 👉
  1. The Grand Durbar of Chiefs: The Saturday highlight in Anloga. Chiefs and queen mothers arrive in palanquins under umbrellas, dressed in Ewe kente and gold, with speeches, libations and drumming. Get there early, because the start is rarely punctual, and bring shade and water.
  2. Nugbidodo, the Ritual Cleansing: Before the main day, the community performs ritual cleansing of the land to clear away evil and bad omens, symbolically starting afresh. Much of it is solemn and private, so ask before photographing anyone.
  3. The Exodus Story: The festival re-enacts the Anlo escape from King Agorkoli of Notsie in present-day Togo, reputedly by walking backward so that pursuers misread the footprints. Elders will often tell it well if you ask politely, and it gives every ceremony meaning.
  4. Agbadza and Borborbor Dancing: Ewe drumming and dance drive the street scenes. Agbadza began as a war dance and is now a social one, with call-and-response singing, while borborbor is a lively, rhythmic group dance. Visitors who join in with a smile get plenty of encouragement.
  5. Ewe Kente and Regalia: The cloths here are bright, woven in strips, and worn in a very particular way on this day. You can spot weavers’ patterns and see how status shows in beads, sandals and gold. Kente shops in the wider Volta Region sell it at fairer prices than tourist stalls in Accra.
If I could only choose one, I would start with the durbar. Everything else makes sense once you have watched the chiefs arrive and heard the crowd respond to the drums.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

🌤️ When to go?When is the celebration of Hogbetsotso?

Hogbetsotso is held in early November, usually on the first Saturday, with a week of build-up events, and the main durbar takes place in Anloga in the Volta Region, where the Anlo Ewe mark their escape from the tyrant king Togbe Agorkoli.
  • Best day: Go for the Saturday grand durbar, when chiefs arrive in palanquins under umbrellas, drums run all day and Anlo Ewe dress in kente. Earlier weekdays are quieter and suit cultural talks and cleansing rites.
  • Weather: Expect 24 to 32°C (75 to 90°F), humid air, and a chance of late showers. Bring a hat, sunscreen, a light rain jacket and sandals you can get dirty.
  • Booking: Reserve a bed three to four weeks ahead, since Anloga and nearby Keta fill up. Rooms often cost 30 to 50 percent more that weekend, and there are no tickets for the durbar itself.
  • Crowds:
… read more 👉
Hogbetsotso is held in early November, usually on the first Saturday, with a week of build-up events, and the main durbar takes place in Anloga in the Volta Region, where the Anlo Ewe mark their escape from the tyrant king Togbe Agorkoli.
  • Best day: Go for the Saturday grand durbar, when chiefs arrive in palanquins under umbrellas, drums run all day and Anlo Ewe dress in kente. Earlier weekdays are quieter and suit cultural talks and cleansing rites.
  • Weather: Expect 24 to 32°C (75 to 90°F), humid air, and a chance of late showers. Bring a hat, sunscreen, a light rain jacket and sandals you can get dirty.
  • Booking: Reserve a bed three to four weeks ahead, since Anloga and nearby Keta fill up. Rooms often cost 30 to 50 percent more that weekend, and there are no tickets for the durbar itself.
  • Crowds: Arrive Friday and leave Sunday morning, because roads from Accra via Sogakope clog by late afternoon after the durbar.
Aim to be at the durbar ground early, since the best shaded spots go first.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: not recommended for travelingFEBFebruary: not recommended for travelingMARMarch: not recommended for travelingAPRApril: not recommended for travelingMAYMay: not recommended for travelingJUNJune: not recommended for travelingJULJuly: not recommended for travelingAUGAugust: not recommended for travelingSEPSeptember: not recommended for travelingOCTOctober: not recommended for travelingNOVNovember: excellent for travelingDECDecember: not recommended for traveling

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🛏️ Where to stay?Choosing the right base

The best base is Anloga itself or nearby Keta, because both put you within a short walk or a cheap shared taxi of the festival grounds. Anloga is smaller and quieter, with guesthouses and family-run rooms. It suits travelers who want to be at the center of events and don’t mind simple facilities, fans instead of air conditioning, and limited nightlife. Keta, around 20 to 30 minutes away, is the more social option: a seafront town with a beach, a lagoon and a broader range of budget rooms, popular with solo travelers and volunteers. It is easy to meet other visitors over breakfast or at beach bars, … read more 👉
The best base is Anloga itself or nearby Keta, because both put you within a short walk or a cheap shared taxi of the festival grounds. Anloga is smaller and quieter, with guesthouses and family-run rooms. It suits travelers who want to be at the center of events and don’t mind simple facilities, fans instead of air conditioning, and limited nightlife. Keta, around 20 to 30 minutes away, is the more social option: a seafront town with a beach, a lagoon and a broader range of budget rooms, popular with solo travelers and volunteers. It is easy to meet other visitors over breakfast or at beach bars, and the Atlantic breeze helps at night. Ho, the regional capital about 2 hours inland, has more choice, better transport and bigger markets, but you lose the evening atmosphere. Accra works for a day trip only if you leave very early, and returning after dark is tiring. Book before mid-October, ask whether water and power are reliable, and settle prices upfront. Women traveling alone should choose a place near the main road with a locking gate.
Best hostels in Ghana


Best quality hotels in Ghana

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)Travel costs and budget guide for Hogbetsotso

A realistic budget for Hogbetsotso is USD 30 to 60 per day, with most of the money going to rooms and transport rather than entry.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUSD 0 to 5The durbar and street events are generally free to watch. Some seating or VIP areas and donations may be requested, so carry small cedi notes.
AccommodationUSD 12 to 40Simple guesthouse rooms in Anloga or Keta start around USD 12 to 20. Prices rise and rooms fill up in festival week, so expect more for air conditioning.
Local transportUSD 4 to 15Accra to Anloga by bus or shared van costs about USD 6 to 12, and takes 3 to 4 hours. Local tro-tros and motorbike taxis cost USD 0.50 to 3 per hop.
Food & drinksUSD 6 to 15Chop-bar meals cost USD 2 to 5, with fish plates and drinks a little more. Sobolo and water are
… read more 👉
A realistic budget for Hogbetsotso is USD 30 to 60 per day, with most of the money going to rooms and transport rather than entry.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUSD 0 to 5The durbar and street events are generally free to watch. Some seating or VIP areas and donations may be requested, so carry small cedi notes.
AccommodationUSD 12 to 40Simple guesthouse rooms in Anloga or Keta start around USD 12 to 20. Prices rise and rooms fill up in festival week, so expect more for air conditioning.
Local transportUSD 4 to 15Accra to Anloga by bus or shared van costs about USD 6 to 12, and takes 3 to 4 hours. Local tro-tros and motorbike taxis cost USD 0.50 to 3 per hop.
Food & drinksUSD 6 to 15Chop-bar meals cost USD 2 to 5, with fish plates and drinks a little more. Sobolo and water are under USD 1.
Miscellaneous expensesUSD 3 to 10Mobile data, small gifts or donations, photo tips, and a kente cloth if you buy one, which can run USD 30 and up.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🍲 FoodLocal Flavors for Backpackers

Expect food from roadside stalls and chop bars rather than curated vendors. The local staples are akple, a smooth, sticky dough of corn and cassava, served with okro soup or fetri detsi (okra stew with fish or crab), and kenkey with fried fish and peppery shito sauce. Along the coast, fresh shrimp, tilapia from the lagoon and fried sprat are everywhere, and the salty, smoky fish is worth the mess. Try banku with grilled tilapia at lunch, eaten with your right hand, the bowl of pepper and sliced onion between you.
For drinks, look for sobolo (chilled hibiscus drink), cold sachet water, bottled beer and palm wine. Akpeteshie, the local distilled spirit, appears during ceremonies, and it is strong, so sip it.
Bring small cash, because stalls rarely take cards and change is scarce. Meals are usually … read more 👉
Expect food from roadside stalls and chop bars rather than curated vendors. The local staples are akple, a smooth, sticky dough of corn and cassava, served with okro soup or fetri detsi (okra stew with fish or crab), and kenkey with fried fish and peppery shito sauce. Along the coast, fresh shrimp, tilapia from the lagoon and fried sprat are everywhere, and the salty, smoky fish is worth the mess. Try banku with grilled tilapia at lunch, eaten with your right hand, the bowl of pepper and sliced onion between you.
For drinks, look for sobolo (chilled hibiscus drink), cold sachet water, bottled beer and palm wine. Akpeteshie, the local distilled spirit, appears during ceremonies, and it is strong, so sip it.
Bring small cash, because stalls rarely take cards and change is scarce. Meals are usually served in generous portions, and refusing a shared bowl with a smile is fine. Eat with your right hand, wash it before you start, and wait when elders are served first. Lines are informal, so make your order clearly and be patient.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Hogbetsotso is held on the first Saturday of November, with the build-up beginning several days earlier. The main events happen in Anloga, in Ghana’s Volta Region, with the grand durbar of chiefs on the Saturday itself. Arrive by Thursday if you want to catch the ritual cleansing and the preceding events, and confirm the exact date locally in October.
Attendance is mostly free, so your costs will come from getting there and staying nearby. Budget about USD 30 to 60 per day, including USD 12 to 40 for a room and USD 6 to 12 for a bus or shared van from Accra. Some VIP seating or donations at ceremonies may cost a few dollars, so carry small cedi notes.
No advance tickets are needed for the public events, including the Saturday durbar in Anloga and the street celebrations. What you should book ahead is a room, ideally three weeks before in Anloga or Keta, since beds sell out in festival week. Transport from Accra, a 3 to 4 hour trip, can be bought on the day at the main bus stations.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Ghanaian festivals near Hogbetsotso

Explore more nearby:

  • Asafotufiam Festival—Ada, musket fire, war dances, August| 31 km away
  • Odwira Festival—Akropong-Akuapem, new yam, stool purification, hill towns| 111 km away
  • Homowo—Ga people, kpokpoi, drumming ban, hooting at hunger| 122 km away

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We 💚 feedbackSumming up the experience

Hogbetsotso is worth it for the moment the chiefs arrive in Anloga and the drums swallow every other sound. You will feel welcomed, not processed. The honest drawback is logistics: dates, start times and transport are fluid, and rooms in Anloga are basic and fill fast. Show up early, stay flexible, and treat the waiting as part of the festival.

✈️ When did I visit Ghana?
Ghana I visited in December 2024, starting in Accra following the coast, then up north to Mole National park to finish in the Volta Region.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Ghana, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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