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Guatemala🇬🇹 | festivalsFeria de Santo TomásPalo volador, copal steps, cohetes, K’iche’ market | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Feria de Santo Tomás
🏆 Top pickfestival ranked #4
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

The festival centers on the Santo Tomás image carried out of the church on the plaza of Chichicastenango, and the sound that gives the town away is the rolling thud of cohetes (bamboo-launched rockets) fired from the church steps. Feria de Santo Tomás takes place in Chichicastenango, in the highlands of Guatemala, a few hours northwest of Guatemala City, and runs for about a week in December, peaking on December 21. Expect K’iche’ Maya processions, the palo volador flying-pole dance, marimba, copal smoke and a packed market. I paid about US$1.50 for a cup of thick atol de elote from a plaza stall, steaming and sweet with corn, and drank it while ash from the incense drifted over my sleeve. The crowds are heavy and the streets loud. It suits culture-minded travelers who like ritual and noise; anyone wanting quiet nights or comfort will struggle.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #4 festival in GuatemalaThe unique appeal for travelers

Feria de Santo Tomás pulls backpackers because it is one of the few chances to watch K’iche’ Maya ceremony at full scale in a town that still runs on it. The palo volador dancers, who spin down from a tall pole on ropes, and the brotherhoods (cofradías) carrying saints through the streets are not staged for visitors, so you watch real community life from the edge of the crowd. The second reason is how neatly it fits a highland loop. Chichicastenango sits in the highlands north of Lake Atitlán, so the feria can anchor a route through Maya villages without a long detour. Cost works in your favor too: street food, tamales and a bed in a basic guesthouse stay modest even when prices rise a little for the festival. Book ahead for December 21, when rooms fill and the plaza turns shoulder to shoulder. … read more 👉
Feria de Santo Tomás pulls backpackers because it is one of the few chances to watch K’iche’ Maya ceremony at full scale in a town that still runs on it. The palo volador dancers, who spin down from a tall pole on ropes, and the brotherhoods (cofradías) carrying saints through the streets are not staged for visitors, so you watch real community life from the edge of the crowd. The second reason is how neatly it fits a highland loop. Chichicastenango sits in the highlands north of Lake Atitlán, so the feria can anchor a route through Maya villages without a long detour. Cost works in your favor too: street food, tamales and a bed in a basic guesthouse stay modest even when prices rise a little for the festival. Book ahead for December 21, when rooms fill and the plaza turns shoulder to shoulder. Arrive early and the mornings feel local, with families and ritual specialists claiming their spots before the day-trippers appear.

💡 HighlightsKey sights and experiences for travelers

  1. Procession of Santo Tomás: the saint’s image leaves the church of Santo Tomás and travels through the streets on a platform, with incense, drums and cohetes announcing it. It is the heart of the feria.
  2. Palo volador: dancers climb a tall pole in the plaza and descend on ropes, spinning in a pre-Hispanic ritual. Stand where you can see the whole height.
  3. Church steps of Santo Tomás: locals burn copal and flower offerings on the stairs while shamans pray. Watch quietly and ask before photographing.
  4. Chichicastenango market: Thursday and Sunday stalls stretch across the plaza with textiles, masks and produce, and they swell during the feria.
  5. Chapel of Calvario and Pascual Abaj: a short walk from the center, the hilltop shrine to Pascual Abaj hosts Maya fire ceremonies, and nearby Calvario church adds
… read more 👉
  1. Procession of Santo Tomás: the saint’s image leaves the church of Santo Tomás and travels through the streets on a platform, with incense, drums and cohetes announcing it. It is the heart of the feria.
  2. Palo volador: dancers climb a tall pole in the plaza and descend on ropes, spinning in a pre-Hispanic ritual. Stand where you can see the whole height.
  3. Church steps of Santo Tomás: locals burn copal and flower offerings on the stairs while shamans pray. Watch quietly and ask before photographing.
  4. Chichicastenango market: Thursday and Sunday stalls stretch across the plaza with textiles, masks and produce, and they swell during the feria.
  5. Chapel of Calvario and Pascual Abaj: a short walk from the center, the hilltop shrine to Pascual Abaj hosts Maya fire ceremonies, and nearby Calvario church adds quiet after the crowds.
Feria de Santo Tomás needs no ticket for these events, though lodging in Chichicastenango should be booked well ahead for the main days.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do around Feria de Santo Tomás

Chichicastenango and Iximché Day Trip from Antigua

Chichicastenango and Iximché Day Trip from Antigua

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Private and Personalized Chichicastenango Tour

Private and Personalized Chichicastenango Tour

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Antigua Chichicastenango Market and Maya Culture Tour

Antigua Chichicastenango Market and Maya Culture Tour

0.0(0) 9h 30m
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Chichicastenango: Market, Tradition, and Living Maya Culture

Chichicastenango: Market, Tradition, and Living Maya Culture

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Ratings based on Tripadvisor reviews. When you book through this link, you support our work at no extra cost to you.

🌤️ When to go?When is the celebration of Feria de Santo Tomás?

Feria de Santo Tomás runs from about December 13 to 21 each year, peaking on December 21 (Saint Thomas’s feast day), in Chichicastenango, in Guatemala’s western highlands.
  • Best day: December 21 is the main day, with the Palo Volador flyers and masked dances in front of Santo Tomás church. Come the day before for processions and a calmer plaza.
  • Weather: Days reach roughly 18 to 22°C (64 to 72°F), but nights at 2,000 meters drop to 5 to 8°C (41 to 46°F). Rain is rare in December. Bring a warm layer, a rain shell and sun protection.
  • Booking: Reserve beds 3 to 4 weeks ahead for the final weekend. Rates rise about 30 to 50 percent around the 21st.
  • Crowds: Arrive before 9 am, since shuttles and chicken buses clog the roads by midday. Leave before 3 pm or after dark to avoid packed vehicles on the Los
… read more 👉
Feria de Santo Tomás runs from about December 13 to 21 each year, peaking on December 21 (Saint Thomas’s feast day), in Chichicastenango, in Guatemala’s western highlands.
  • Best day: December 21 is the main day, with the Palo Volador flyers and masked dances in front of Santo Tomás church. Come the day before for processions and a calmer plaza.
  • Weather: Days reach roughly 18 to 22°C (64 to 72°F), but nights at 2,000 meters drop to 5 to 8°C (41 to 46°F). Rain is rare in December. Bring a warm layer, a rain shell and sun protection.
  • Booking: Reserve beds 3 to 4 weeks ahead for the final weekend. Rates rise about 30 to 50 percent around the 21st.
  • Crowds: Arrive before 9 am, since shuttles and chicken buses clog the roads by midday. Leave before 3 pm or after dark to avoid packed vehicles on the Los Encuentros road.
If Thursday or Sunday market days fall in the festival, expect extra crowds and book early.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: not recommended for travelingFEBFebruary: not recommended for travelingMARMarch: not recommended for travelingAPRApril: not recommended for travelingMAYMay: not recommended for travelingJUNJune: not recommended for travelingJULJuly: not recommended for travelingAUGAugust: not recommended for travelingSEPSeptember: not recommended for travelingOCTOctober: not recommended for travelingNOVNovember: not recommended for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling

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🛏️ Where to stay?Where staying makes the most sense

Chichicastenango itself is where you want to sleep, ideally in the streets within five or six blocks of the central plaza and Santo Tomás church. Everything happens on foot here, so you can walk back after the dances and fireworks without hunting for transport at night. The area around the main square and the lanes toward the market has small guesthouses and family-run lodgings. These are safest because streets stay busy and lit until the evening events wind down. Solo travelers meet others in shared courtyards and rooftop breakfast areas, and the plaza itself is the social hub.
The upper streets … read more 👉
Chichicastenango itself is where you want to sleep, ideally in the streets within five or six blocks of the central plaza and Santo Tomás church. Everything happens on foot here, so you can walk back after the dances and fireworks without hunting for transport at night. The area around the main square and the lanes toward the market has small guesthouses and family-run lodgings. These are safest because streets stay busy and lit until the evening events wind down. Solo travelers meet others in shared courtyards and rooftop breakfast areas, and the plaza itself is the social hub.
The upper streets toward the cemetery are quieter and cheaper, but walk them in a group after dark. Avoid staying far outside town, since taxis and tuk-tuks thin out during the festival.
If Chichicastenango fills up, Panajachel on Lake Atitlán is the social backpacker alternative, about 1.5 to 2 hours away by shuttle, though early-morning transfers are needed to catch the main events. Quetzaltenango (Xela) is a longer option, around 2.5 to 3 hours by road. Book early, as December is peak season for the whole highlands.
Best hostels in Guatemala


Best quality hotels in Guatemala

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)How expensive it really is

Expect to spend about US$48 a day at Feria de Santo Tomás as a budget traveler, including a mid-range hostel or guesthouse bed at festival rates.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUS$0The plaza, processions and dances are free to watch. Small tips for photos of dancers and donations at the church are customary.
AccommodationUS$12 to 30Dorm beds and basic rooms rise sharply around December 21, and the cheapest options sell out early.
Local transportUS$2 to 30Chicken buses from Los Encuentros cost about US$1 to 2, shuttles from Panajachel or Antigua US$10 to 20 each way, and tuk-tuks in town about US$1 to 2.
Food & drinksUS$8 to 15Market comedores serve full plates for US$3 to 5, while street snacks are US$0.50 to 2 and beer around US$2 to 3.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$3 to 10Textile
… read more 👉
Expect to spend about US$48 a day at Feria de Santo Tomás as a budget traveler, including a mid-range hostel or guesthouse bed at festival rates.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUS$0The plaza, processions and dances are free to watch. Small tips for photos of dancers and donations at the church are customary.
AccommodationUS$12 to 30Dorm beds and basic rooms rise sharply around December 21, and the cheapest options sell out early.
Local transportUS$2 to 30Chicken buses from Los Encuentros cost about US$1 to 2, shuttles from Panajachel or Antigua US$10 to 20 each way, and tuk-tuks in town about US$1 to 2.
Food & drinksUS$8 to 15Market comedores serve full plates for US$3 to 5, while street snacks are US$0.50 to 2 and beer around US$2 to 3.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$3 to 10Textile and mask purchases, photo tips, bathroom fees and a warm layer if you forgot yours.
Total Daily BudgetUS$25 to 85About US$48 for a typical day with a mid-range bed, shared transport and market meals.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🍲 FoodLocal Flavors for Backpackers

Plaza stalls and the market lanes around Santo Tomás church carry the festival’s flavor. Look for pepián and caldo de res served in steaming bowls, tamales (red or black, often wrapped in banana leaf) and chuchitos, the small corn-dough parcels you eat from the husk. Grilled elote and tostadas with guacamole are quick snacks between dances.
For drinks, try hot atol de elote, which warms you on cold highland mornings, and ponche de frutas, a spiced fruit punch popular in December. Local Gallo beer is easy to find, and you may see aguardiente or cuxa shared around the church area. Pick it up only from sellers you trust.
For authenticity, eat at the long tables in the market comedores, where a plate of rice, beans, meat and tortillas costs about US$3 to 5. Snacks run US$0.50 to 2.
Carry cash in … read more 👉
Plaza stalls and the market lanes around Santo Tomás church carry the festival’s flavor. Look for pepián and caldo de res served in steaming bowls, tamales (red or black, often wrapped in banana leaf) and chuchitos, the small corn-dough parcels you eat from the husk. Grilled elote and tostadas with guacamole are quick snacks between dances.
For drinks, try hot atol de elote, which warms you on cold highland mornings, and ponche de frutas, a spiced fruit punch popular in December. Local Gallo beer is easy to find, and you may see aguardiente or cuxa shared around the church area. Pick it up only from sellers you trust.
For authenticity, eat at the long tables in the market comedores, where a plate of rice, beans, meat and tortillas costs about US$3 to 5. Snacks run US$0.50 to 2.
Carry cash in small quetzal notes, as stalls rarely take cards and change for large bills is scarce. Lines move quickly, portions are generous, and sharing a plate is normal. Choose busy stalls with food cooked in front of you, and bring your own napkins or hand wipes.

FAQFrequently asked questions about Feria de Santo Tomás

Feria de Santo Tomás takes place each December in Chichicastenango, running roughly from December 13 to 21. The main day is December 21, the feast of Saint Thomas, with traditional dances and the Palo Volador ritual at the church plaza. Arrive by 9 am on that day for a good viewing spot.
Attending Feria de Santo Tomás is free, since the processions, dances and plaza events have no entry fee. Budget travelers typically spend US$25 to 85 a day, mostly on beds that rise 30 to 50 percent around December 21. Market meals cost US$3 to 5 and chicken buses US$1 to 2.
No tickets are needed for Feria de Santo Tomás, as the events take place in public streets and the plaza in Chichicastenango. What you do need in advance is a bed, ideally booked 3 to 4 weeks ahead for the last weekend before December 21. Shuttles from Panajachel or Antigua cost about US$10 to 20 each way and are worth reserving a day early.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Guatemalan festivals near Feria de Santo Tomás

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We 💚 feedbackFinal thoughts on celebrating the Feria de Santo Tomás

Feria de Santo Tomás is loud, crowded and worth it if you plan around it. I would pair it with a few days at Lake Atitlán before or Quetzaltenango after, and sleep in a quieter town on the nights you want rest. Bring earplugs and small bills.

✈️ When did I visit Guatemala?
Guatemala I visited during my half year trip through South and Central America back in 2003

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Guatemala, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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