- Pirogue landings: This is what the beach is known for. Painted wooden boats ride the surf onto the sand, and crews unload crates of fish while gulls and pelicans circle overhead. Go in the afternoon, when most of the fleet is coming in, and stand back from the waterline because the boats come in fast.
- The sand-side fish auction: Right where the boats land, buyers, women with basins and porters haggle over the catch. It is loud, wet and smelly, and it is the clearest view you will get of how Mauritanians trade. Watch rather than bargain unless you are buying for a kitchen.
- Grilled fish near the shore: Small stalls and eateries around the landing area cook the day’s catch over charcoal, usually served with rice or bread. Eat what is still on ice or just landed, and pick places with a busy turnover.
- Pirogue landings: This is what the beach is known for. Painted wooden boats ride the surf onto the sand, and crews unload crates of fish while gulls and pelicans circle overhead. Go in the afternoon, when most of the fleet is coming in, and stand back from the waterline because the boats come in fast.
- The sand-side fish auction: Right where the boats land, buyers, women with basins and porters haggle over the catch. It is loud, wet and smelly, and it is the clearest view you will get of how Mauritanians trade. Watch rather than bargain unless you are buying for a kitchen.
- Grilled fish near the shore: Small stalls and eateries around the landing area cook the day’s catch over charcoal, usually served with rice or bread. Eat what is still on ice or just landed, and pick places with a busy turnover.
- Beach football at low tide: When the tide drops it leaves a firm, damp strip of sand, and games start up in the afternoon and last until dark. Teams of teenagers and young men play barefoot between the boats. Watching is easy and being invited to join happens often, so be ready to run in sand.
- A walk along the tideline: The shore stretches on with dunes behind and hardly any buildings, so you can walk for a long way with only the surf and the wind for company. Camels and goats sometimes wander near the dune edge, and seabirds work the breakers. It is the best way to get away from the landing crowd. Keep to the dry sand, avoid wading in because of the currents, and be back before dark.
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Hi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.