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Réunion🇷🇪 | national parksCirque de MafateRoadless caldera, hamlet gîtes, Marla ledge, Col des Boeufs | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Cirque de Mafate
🌟 Highlightnational park ranked #2
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

You can walk into a volcanic bowl where no road has ever arrived, and sleep in a village with a bed, a hot dinner and a view waiting at the end of each day. Cirque de Mafate sits in the interior of Réunion, northwest of the island's highest peak, Piton des Neiges, ringed by cliffs of 1,000 meters or more. Everything arrives by foot or helicopter, so the soundtrack is boots on gravel, tamarind leaves rustling and roosters in the hamlets. Trails climb through cool cloud forest and drop into dry ravines that smell of hot rock and geranium. The ridges are steep, the humidity can be heavy, and rain turns paths slick. Crowds thin out fast once you leave the main passes, and wildlife is mostly birds, like the white-tailed tropicbird gliding along the walls. Mornings often bring the cleanest views before cloud rolls in. At Marla, you eat a plate of rice, lentils and pork at a family table on a ledge above the abyss.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #2 national park in RéunionWhy Cirque de Mafate should be on your travel list

Cirque de Mafate rewards independent walkers better than any guided package could. The hamlets of Marla, La Nouvelle, Roche Plate and Aurère are linked by a web of marked paths, so you can string together two, three or five days at your own speed and change plans over breakfast. Nobody herds you along a fixed itinerary, and you decide where to stop for the afternoon.

The second draw is the simple, repeatable rhythm of village hiking. Each evening ends at a gîte run by local families, where half-board means a hot meal, a shared table and a bed without carrying a tent. Your pack stays light, and you can pick up a cold drink and fresh bread at small village shops. Route variety is the third reason: the climb to Col des Boeufs is a gentle introduction, while the ridge and pass crossings like … read more 👉
Cirque de Mafate rewards independent walkers better than any guided package could. The hamlets of Marla, La Nouvelle, Roche Plate and Aurère are linked by a web of marked paths, so you can string together two, three or five days at your own speed and change plans over breakfast. Nobody herds you along a fixed itinerary, and you decide where to stop for the afternoon.

The second draw is the simple, repeatable rhythm of village hiking. Each evening ends at a gîte run by local families, where half-board means a hot meal, a shared table and a bed without carrying a tent. Your pack stays light, and you can pick up a cold drink and fresh bread at small village shops. Route variety is the third reason: the climb to Col des Boeufs is a gentle introduction, while the ridge and pass crossings like Col du Taïbit demand real legs. Choose short loops or a full traverse, and you still end up somewhere remote.

💡 HighlightsKey sights and experiences for travelers

  1. Marla: The most photographed hamlet, perched on a rocky shelf with the cirque falling away on all sides. Its viewpoint over the walls at dawn is the image most people carry home.
  2. Col des Boeufs: The northern gateway pass with a sweeping first look into the cirque. It feels like opening a door onto a green, pleated bowl.
  3. Roche Plate: A quiet village with a lookout over Aurère and the Rivière des Galets valley, popular for a restful overnight stay.
  4. La Nouvelle: The largest settlement in the cirque, with a small church, a school and several shops. Its relaxed pace suits a lunch stop and a chat with locals.
  5. Col du Taïbit: A famous pass on the route from Cilaos, with a steep climb and a wide view back across Mafate. Weather changes quickly up here, so start early.
  6. Piton Maïdo viewpoint: The rim lookout
… read more 👉
  1. Marla: The most photographed hamlet, perched on a rocky shelf with the cirque falling away on all sides. Its viewpoint over the walls at dawn is the image most people carry home.
  2. Col des Boeufs: The northern gateway pass with a sweeping first look into the cirque. It feels like opening a door onto a green, pleated bowl.
  3. Roche Plate: A quiet village with a lookout over Aurère and the Rivière des Galets valley, popular for a restful overnight stay.
  4. La Nouvelle: The largest settlement in the cirque, with a small church, a school and several shops. Its relaxed pace suits a lunch stop and a chat with locals.
  5. Col du Taïbit: A famous pass on the route from Cilaos, with a steep climb and a wide view back across Mafate. Weather changes quickly up here, so start early.
  6. Piton Maïdo viewpoint: The rim lookout above Mafate, reached by a short walk from the car park, with the sheer drop into the cirque visible when clouds allow.
  7. Îlet à Malheur: A tiny hamlet and trailhead with a shady path, and a gentle forest stretch before the descent toward Aurère.
  8. Sentier Scout: A well-known descent from the Dos d’Âne side, with panoramic ridge views, shaded sections and steady switchbacks into the heart of the cirque.
No sight in Cirque de Mafate needs a ticket, but gîte beds and meals fill up and should be booked well ahead, especially for weekends and holidays.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

🌤️ When to go?Choosing the right time of year

  • Austral Winter (May to October): Dry, clear and the easiest season for multi-day treks. Daytime highs reach 18 to 24°C (64 to 75°F) at gîte level, and nights on the high rim at Maïdo or Col des Boeufs can drop to 6 to 10°C (43 to 50°F). Daylight lasts roughly 11 to 12 hours, so start walking by 7 a.m.
  • September to October: Dry trails, warming days and fewer school-holiday crowds. Gîtes are easier to book than in July or August.
  • Austral Summer (November to April): Hot and humid, with highs of 26 to 31°C (79 to 88°F) lower down. Afternoon cloud and heavy downpours are routine, and cyclone season (January to March) can close trails and cut off the cirque for days.
  • July, August and December: School holidays fill the gîtes weeks ahead, and meal-and-bed packages sell out first.
Book gîtes two to three … read more 👉
  • Austral Winter (May to October): Dry, clear and the easiest season for multi-day treks. Daytime highs reach 18 to 24°C (64 to 75°F) at gîte level, and nights on the high rim at Maïdo or Col des Boeufs can drop to 6 to 10°C (43 to 50°F). Daylight lasts roughly 11 to 12 hours, so start walking by 7 a.m.
  • September to October: Dry trails, warming days and fewer school-holiday crowds. Gîtes are easier to book than in July or August.
  • Austral Summer (November to April): Hot and humid, with highs of 26 to 31°C (79 to 88°F) lower down. Afternoon cloud and heavy downpours are routine, and cyclone season (January to March) can close trails and cut off the cirque for days.
  • July, August and December: School holidays fill the gîtes weeks ahead, and meal-and-bed packages sell out first.
Book gîtes two to three months ahead for winter, and walk early so you are in before the cloud rolls in.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: fair for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: highly recommended for travelingJULJuly: good for travelingAUGAugust: good for travelingSEPSeptember: highly recommended for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
reunion-national-park-cirque-de-mafate v1
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🛏️ Where to stay?Choosing the right base

The only places to sleep in Cirque de Mafate are the gîtes in its small hamlets, since there are no roads and no hotels. Most backpackers book half-board (bed, dinner, breakfast), typically €45 to 65 per person. Dormitories and small private rooms are both common, and many gîtes also offer picnic lunches.
The main bases are Marla (the highest and most popular, with several gîtes and views over the cirque), La Nouvelle (the biggest village, with a small shop and the most beds), Roche Plate, Îlet à Bourse, Aurère, Îlet à Malheur, Grand Place and Cayenne. Marla suits a first night after the climb … read more 👉
The only places to sleep in Cirque de Mafate are the gîtes in its small hamlets, since there are no roads and no hotels. Most backpackers book half-board (bed, dinner, breakfast), typically €45 to 65 per person. Dormitories and small private rooms are both common, and many gîtes also offer picnic lunches.
The main bases are Marla (the highest and most popular, with several gîtes and views over the cirque), La Nouvelle (the biggest village, with a small shop and the most beds), Roche Plate, Îlet à Bourse, Aurère, Îlet à Malheur, Grand Place and Cayenne. Marla suits a first night after the climb from Col des Boeufs, while La Nouvelle works as a hub for loops.
Camping is tightly restricted in the cirque, with only a few designated areas, so most walkers rely on gîtes. Reservations are essential, and many places want payment in cash since card machines and signal are unreliable. Bring cash in euros.
Outside the cirque, the best trailhead bases are Cilaos and Hell-Bourg (both with hostels and guesthouses), Le Port and La Possession on the coast, and Saint-Paul or Saint-Denis for city beds before or after a trek.


Best quality hotels in Réunion

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)What things cost and how to budget

Cirque de Mafate costs roughly €95 to 100 per person per day when you stay in gîtes on half-board. Everything must be carried in by foot or helicopter, which keeps prices higher than on the coast.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Entrance fee€0Free to enter the cirque and walk the trails.
Accommodation (high season)€45 to 65Gîte dorm bed with dinner and breakfast included, usually paid in cash.
Accommodation (low season)€40 to 55Easier to find space, though some gîtes close in cyclone months.
Food and supplies€10 to 20Picnic lunch from the gîte costs €8 to 12; snacks and drinks in village shops cost more than on the coast.
Transport to trailheads€5 to 20Buses to Col des Boeufs or Cilaos, or a taxi from Saint-Paul to Maïdo or Le Port to Sentier Scout; return trips and shuttles add up.
Extras€5 to
… read more 👉
Cirque de Mafate costs roughly €95 to 100 per person per day when you stay in gîtes on half-board. Everything must be carried in by foot or helicopter, which keeps prices higher than on the coast.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Entrance fee€0Free to enter the cirque and walk the trails.
Accommodation (high season)€45 to 65Gîte dorm bed with dinner and breakfast included, usually paid in cash.
Accommodation (low season)€40 to 55Easier to find space, though some gîtes close in cyclone months.
Food and supplies€10 to 20Picnic lunch from the gîte costs €8 to 12; snacks and drinks in village shops cost more than on the coast.
Transport to trailheads€5 to 20Buses to Col des Boeufs or Cilaos, or a taxi from Saint-Paul to Maïdo or Le Port to Sentier Scout; return trips and shuttles add up.
Extras€5 to 15Cold beer, a bottle of rum punch or bottled water costs extra and is expensive at remote gîtes.
Total Daily Budget€95 to 100Based on high-season gîtes, a picnic lunch and one bus or taxi leg.


source: reunion.fr
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🥾 TrailsPlan your hike in Cirque de Mafate: routes, terrain, and sights

Cirque de Mafate is a network of mountain paths, not one park trail, and the main routes start from the rim and drop into the bowl. Terrain is steep and rocky, with stairs cut into earth, cloud forest, dry ravines and open ridges. Expect long ascents on the way out. Wildlife is modest: tropicbirds, bulbuls and the odd white-eye along forested sections.
  • Sentier Scout: Starts from Dos d’Âne and descends to Aurère or Grand Place, roughly 4 to 5 hours, moderate to demanding, with long switchbacks, ridge views and a steep climb back out.
  • Col des Boeufs to La Nouvelle: Around 3 to 4 hours, moderate, starting
… read more 👉
Cirque de Mafate is a network of mountain paths, not one park trail, and the main routes start from the rim and drop into the bowl. Terrain is steep and rocky, with stairs cut into earth, cloud forest, dry ravines and open ridges. Expect long ascents on the way out. Wildlife is modest: tropicbirds, bulbuls and the odd white-eye along forested sections.
  • Sentier Scout: Starts from Dos d’Âne and descends to Aurère or Grand Place, roughly 4 to 5 hours, moderate to demanding, with long switchbacks, ridge views and a steep climb back out.
  • Col des Boeufs to La Nouvelle: Around 3 to 4 hours, moderate, starting at the pass and descending through forest and ravines, with the cirque opening below you.
  • Col du Taïbit to Marla: Roughly 4 to 5 hours, demanding, a steep ascent to the pass followed by a dramatic ridge descent with big views.
  • Roche Plate to La Nouvelle: About 2 to 3 hours, moderate, gentle undulations and a mix of exposed ridge and shaded path.
  • Grand Traversée: A multi-day crossing linking several hamlets, typically 2 to 4 days, difficult, with big climbs and descents each day and a full tour of the cirque.
Getting there means reaching a trailhead by road, as there is no public road into the cirque itself. Local buses serve the rim areas such as Dos d’Âne and Sainte-Suzanne side access points, though schedules are thin. Many walkers use shuttles or taxis from Saint-Denis or the west coast. Entry to the cirque is free. Visitors pay in euros at gîtes and shops. Crowds gather around Marla and La Nouvelle on weekends and school holidays, but quieter paths remain. Start early to avoid afternoon cloud and rain.
⚠️ Hiking info can sometimes be outdated or inaccurate. Before you hit the trail, check the latest conditions with locals. If you do spot anything that's off, I'd love to hear from you, so I can update it for fellow travelers.

🛡️ SafetySafety Tips and Common Scams in Cirque de Mafate

Cirque de Mafate is a well-used walking area, and the main risks are weather and tired legs. Trails are signed and maintained, but descents from Col des Boeufs, Maïdo or Sentier Scout to the floor are steep, often 600 to 1,000 meters of loose rock and stone steps, so trekking poles help your knees. Rain makes stones slick and can swell the ravines quickly; wait for water to drop rather than cross it.
Mornings are usually clear, with cloud rolling in by early afternoon, so start early and plan to arrive at your gîte by mid-afternoon. Nights at higher gîtes are cold, so pack a warm layer and a rain jacket even in winter. Cyclone alerts in summer can close paths, and you should follow official closures.
There is no road, no vehicle rescue and patchy mobile signal, so tell your gîte your route. … read more 👉
Cirque de Mafate is a well-used walking area, and the main risks are weather and tired legs. Trails are signed and maintained, but descents from Col des Boeufs, Maïdo or Sentier Scout to the floor are steep, often 600 to 1,000 meters of loose rock and stone steps, so trekking poles help your knees. Rain makes stones slick and can swell the ravines quickly; wait for water to drop rather than cross it.
Mornings are usually clear, with cloud rolling in by early afternoon, so start early and plan to arrive at your gîte by mid-afternoon. Nights at higher gîtes are cold, so pack a warm layer and a rain jacket even in winter. Cyclone alerts in summer can close paths, and you should follow official closures.
There is no road, no vehicle rescue and patchy mobile signal, so tell your gîte your route. Carry 2 liters of water and sun protection. There are no dangerous large animals on the trails.
Check Country Safety

FAQFrequently asked questions about Cirque de Mafate

Plan on 2 to 3 days for Cirque de Mafate, with two nights in gîtes being the practical minimum. A classic loop from Col des Boeufs via Marla, La Nouvelle and back takes about 2 days, while adding Aurère, Roche Plate and Îlet à Bourse stretches to 3 to 4 days. A day trip is possible to Marla but misses the cirque’s villages.
No car is needed to see Cirque de Mafate, because it has no roads and can only be reached on foot or by helicopter. Buses reach trailheads such as Le Port, Cilaos and Hell-Bourg from Saint-Denis and Saint-Pierre, and taxis cover Col des Boeufs and Maïdo for around €30 to 70. Many hikers do point-to-point routes, exiting via Sentier Scout (about 3 to 4 hours up) or Col du Taïbit.
Cirque de Mafate has no entrance fee or permit for hikers, and you can walk the main trails freely. Bookings for gîtes are effectively required, however, costing around €45 to 65 per person with dinner and breakfast. Camping is limited to a few designated spots and may need authorization, so most trekkers book gîtes ahead.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Réunionnais national parks near Cirque de Mafate

Explore more nearby:

  • Le Maïdo—high plateau, panoramic viewpoints, tamarind forest, sunrise vistas| 5 km away
  • Cirque de Cilaos—mountain amphitheater, thermal springs, switchback roads, lentil fields| 11 km away
  • Cirque de Salazie—waterfalls, lush valleys, Creole villages, misty forests| 12 km away

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We 💚 feedbackFinal thoughts on exploring Cirque de Mafate

Cirque de Mafate rewards those who read the small print on trail maps: many paths are signed in hours, not distances, and the climbs out are always steeper than they look. I would carry cash, because there are no cash machines inside, and pack a light rain jacket even on blue-sky mornings.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on in-depth research, insights shared by experienced travelers, and feedback from the local travel community in Réunion. While every effort is made to keep the information accurate and current, conditions can change — so if you spot anything incorrect or outdated, please get in touch.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

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