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Samoa🇼🇸 | townsApiaStevenson’s hillside house, dawn market, harbor strip, Palolo Deep snorkeling | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Apia
🏆 Top picktown ranked #1
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 16, 2026

A bus idles at the curb on Beach Road, its stereo thumping gospel, while the smell of frying panikeke and wet diesel drifts off the harbor and the heat settles on your neck by 8 a.m. That is Apia, in the north of Upolu island and Samoa’s capital. It is small, a little scruffy, and easier to like than to admire. The Maketi Fou market and the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum justify a visit. The harbor-front strip itself needs only a short stroll, since the shops and government blocks are plain. Most of Samoa’s best beaches and waterfalls lie elsewhere on the island, so Apia works as a base for day trips and a place to stock up. Flights land nearby and buses fan out from town, which makes arriving simple. Hostels are few and sociable, evenings are quiet, and you will meet other travelers at the cafés and over a Vailima beer. A good first day: the market at dawn, Stevenson’s hillside house by late morning, and the waterfront at sunset.

Discover everything you want to know in the 📖 Samoa Travel Guide.


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✨ Why go?
Ranked #1 town in Samoa
What sets this place apart

Apia earns its place as the practical heart of Upolu. Nearly every road on the island starts here, so you can sleep in town and still reach waterfalls, swimming holes and south-coast beaches without hauling your pack between guesthouses. Most travelers stay one to three nights, and that suits the place. The town is compact enough to cover on foot, though the heat makes a taxi worthwhile for the uphill trip to the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum at Vailima.

What keeps people longer is daily life. Maketi Fou runs from before dawn with stalls of taro, coconut cream, oka (raw fish in coconut milk) and cheap plate lunches, and it is the best place to see how Samoans actually shop and eat. On Sundays the town hushes for church, and the singing from open doors is worth hearing.

Solo travelers and … read more 👉
Apia earns its place as the practical heart of Upolu. Nearly every road on the island starts here, so you can sleep in town and still reach waterfalls, swimming holes and south-coast beaches without hauling your pack between guesthouses. Most travelers stay one to three nights, and that suits the place. The town is compact enough to cover on foot, though the heat makes a taxi worthwhile for the uphill trip to the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum at Vailima.

What keeps people longer is daily life. Maketi Fou runs from before dawn with stalls of taro, coconut cream, oka (raw fish in coconut milk) and cheap plate lunches, and it is the best place to see how Samoans actually shop and eat. On Sundays the town hushes for church, and the singing from open doors is worth hearing.

Solo travelers and slow travelers get the most out of it. Hostel crowds are small, so conversations happen easily. Anyone chasing nightlife or a sandy foreground should treat Apia as a stop of a few days, not a destination in itself, and head to the coast.

💡 HighlightsWhat this place is best known for

  1. Robert Louis Stevenson Museum (Vailima): The Scottish author’s restored 1890s home, up in the hills, holds his furniture, books and a fireplace he insisted on in the tropics. Guided tours run on set hours through the morning and afternoon and are best before the heat. Allow 1 to 1.5 hours. Entry is roughly WS$20 to 30 (about US$7 to 11).
  2. Mt Vaea and Stevenson’s tomb: A steep forest trail behind the house climbs to the grave where he was buried in 1894, with a view over the town and reef. Go early or late. It takes about 45 minutes up and 30 down, and the path is slippery after rain. Plan 1.5 to 2 hours.
  3. Maketi Fou: The main market is loud, sweaty and honest, with produce, woven mats, kava bowls and food stalls. Go between 6 and 9 a.m. for the freshest fish and the best breakfast. Browsing is
… read more 👉
  1. Robert Louis Stevenson Museum (Vailima): The Scottish author’s restored 1890s home, up in the hills, holds his furniture, books and a fireplace he insisted on in the tropics. Guided tours run on set hours through the morning and afternoon and are best before the heat. Allow 1 to 1.5 hours. Entry is roughly WS$20 to 30 (about US$7 to 11).
  2. Mt Vaea and Stevenson’s tomb: A steep forest trail behind the house climbs to the grave where he was buried in 1894, with a view over the town and reef. Go early or late. It takes about 45 minutes up and 30 down, and the path is slippery after rain. Plan 1.5 to 2 hours.
  3. Maketi Fou: The main market is loud, sweaty and honest, with produce, woven mats, kava bowls and food stalls. Go between 6 and 9 a.m. for the freshest fish and the best breakfast. Browsing is free, and a snack costs a few tala. Allow 1 hour.
  4. Immaculate Conception Cathedral: This Catholic cathedral at the harbor edge has a pale facade and a cool, airy interior. Come at a Sunday service for the singing, or on a weekday morning for a quiet look. Entry is free, and 20 to 30 minutes is plenty.
  5. Palolo Deep Marine Reserve: A sandy-bottomed drop-off just offshore east of town, where you can snorkel among giant clams, parrotfish and reef sharks that stay near the edge. Go at high tide, mid-morning, when the water is clearest. Entry is about WS$5 to 10 and you should allow 1.5 to 2 hours.
Palolo Deep is the item to skip if you only have a half day, since the south-coast reefs are far better for snorkeling. Pair your Apia time with day trips to To Sua Ocean Trench, Lalomanu Beach, Piula Cave Pool and the Papase’ea Sliding Rocks.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do around Apia

Ratings based on Tripadvisor reviews. When you book through this link, you support our work at no extra cost to you.

🏘️ NeighborhoodsWhere things are and how it's laid out

Apia is small enough to cover on foot in a morning, but each pocket has a different pace, so spend your time where it counts.
  • Waterfront and Beach Road: The seawall strip along Beach Road is the heart of town. Expect diesel fumes, church bells, and the smell of grilled fish and coconut from stalls. The Fish Market at dawn is worth setting an alarm for, and the clock tower makes a good meeting point. Skip the souvenir shops near the harbor, which are pricier than elsewhere. Fully walkable, but hot by 10am.
  • Central Market District (Fugalei and Maketi Fou): Fugalei Market sells taro, papaya, and cooked umu food, and the noise of buses idling at the Maketi Fou terminal never stops. This is the best place to eat cheaply and watch daily life. Go in the morning, when the produce is fresh and the air
… read more 👉
Apia is small enough to cover on foot in a morning, but each pocket has a different pace, so spend your time where it counts.
  • Waterfront and Beach Road: The seawall strip along Beach Road is the heart of town. Expect diesel fumes, church bells, and the smell of grilled fish and coconut from stalls. The Fish Market at dawn is worth setting an alarm for, and the clock tower makes a good meeting point. Skip the souvenir shops near the harbor, which are pricier than elsewhere. Fully walkable, but hot by 10am.
  • Central Market District (Fugalei and Maketi Fou): Fugalei Market sells taro, papaya, and cooked umu food, and the noise of buses idling at the Maketi Fou terminal never stops. This is the best place to eat cheaply and watch daily life. Go in the morning, when the produce is fresh and the air is cooler.
  • Vailima: A short ride uphill, where the air turns noticeably cooler and greener. Robert Louis Stevenson’s former home, now a museum, sits here, and the grounds are worth the entry fee. The Mount Vaea walk starts nearby, a steep, muddy, humid climb to his grave. Take a bus or taxi, as the road has no real sidewalk.
  • Mulinuu Peninsula: Government buildings and quiet, mown lawns. Little to do, so skip it unless you are passing by.
  • Vaitele and Faleata: Strip malls and the main sports complex. Useful for supermarkets and SIM cards, otherwise forgettable.

⌛️ 1 day1-day itinerary for Apia

8:00 AM, Robert Louis Stevenson Museum and Mt Vaea: Take a taxi uphill and start with the house tour before the humidity builds. Then hike the forest trail behind it to Stevenson’s tomb. The view over the reef and the red roofs of town explains why he chose the spot.

11:30 AM, Maketi Fou: Ride back down and spend an hour among the produce piles and handicraft stalls. Eat lunch at a food counter, where palusami (taro leaves baked in coconut cream) and grilled fish with rice are standard.

1:30 PM, Immaculate Conception Cathedral: Walk along Beach Road past the Clock Tower, the war memorial that stands as the town’s landmark. Step into the cathedral for its cool, quiet interior and a break from the sun.

3:00 PM, Palolo Deep Marine Reserve: Take a short taxi east for a snorkel in the clear … read more 👉
8:00 AM, Robert Louis Stevenson Museum and Mt Vaea: Take a taxi uphill and start with the house tour before the humidity builds. Then hike the forest trail behind it to Stevenson’s tomb. The view over the reef and the red roofs of town explains why he chose the spot.

11:30 AM, Maketi Fou: Ride back down and spend an hour among the produce piles and handicraft stalls. Eat lunch at a food counter, where palusami (taro leaves baked in coconut cream) and grilled fish with rice are standard.

1:30 PM, Immaculate Conception Cathedral: Walk along Beach Road past the Clock Tower, the war memorial that stands as the town’s landmark. Step into the cathedral for its cool, quiet interior and a break from the sun.

3:00 PM, Palolo Deep Marine Reserve: Take a short taxi east for a snorkel in the clear pool just offshore. Bring your own mask if you can, and wear reef shoes for the rocky entry.

5:00 PM, Mulinu’u peninsula: Few visitors bother with this long, flat finger of land west of the center, yet it holds the parliament, the royal tombs and village greens where kids play rugby in the late light. Stay respectful and avoid entering fenced burial sites. This is also where you see Samoan village life, and on Sunday it is quieter and strictly for worship.

7:00 PM, Waterfront dinner: Return to the harbor strip for a cold Vailima beer and a plate of fresh fish while the lamps come on. Finish the evening with an easy walk back to your hostel.

🌤️ When to go?Seasonal considerations and timing

May to October is the easiest window for Apia, with dry, sunny days and lighter humidity.
  • Dry Season (May to October): Days reach 28 to 30°C (82 to 86°F) and nights drop to around 22°C (72°F). Rain is lighter and roads stay passable. Daylight runs about 11 to 12 hours. Flights and rooms are busiest in July and August, when families from New Zealand and Australia visit, so prices climb.
  • Wet Season (November to April): Expect 29 to 32°C (84 to 90°F), heavy humidity, and downpours that can last hours. Cyclones are possible, most often from December to March. Rooms are cheaper and the waterfalls run full, but some roads flood.
  • Festivals: The Teuila Festival in early September fills the waterfront with dance and canoe races. Independence celebrations come in early June, with boat races and fiafia
… read more 👉
May to October is the easiest window for Apia, with dry, sunny days and lighter humidity.
  • Dry Season (May to October): Days reach 28 to 30°C (82 to 86°F) and nights drop to around 22°C (72°F). Rain is lighter and roads stay passable. Daylight runs about 11 to 12 hours. Flights and rooms are busiest in July and August, when families from New Zealand and Australia visit, so prices climb.
  • Wet Season (November to April): Expect 29 to 32°C (84 to 90°F), heavy humidity, and downpours that can last hours. Cyclones are possible, most often from December to March. Rooms are cheaper and the waterfalls run full, but some roads flood.
  • Festivals: The Teuila Festival in early September fills the waterfront with dance and canoe races. Independence celebrations come in early June, with boat races and fiafia nights. Book beds early for both.
Visit in late May, early June, or late October to get dry weather without peak prices.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: fair for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: highly recommended for travelingJULJuly: highly recommended for travelingAUGAugust: highly recommended for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?How to pick the right area

The best budget beds in Apia sit in the town center and along the waterfront side of Beach Road, with a second cluster in the quieter, greener hills toward Vailima.
The center has the greatest concentration of dorms and cheap guesthouse rooms, so you can compare a few on foot instead of booking blind. You are within walking distance of the market, the bus terminals, and most restaurants, which makes early starts for day trips simple. Dorm beds generally run WST 50 to 90 (US$18 to 33) a night, and private rooms start at around WST 120 (US$44). The trade-off is noise: roosters, church choirs, and … read more 👉
The best budget beds in Apia sit in the town center and along the waterfront side of Beach Road, with a second cluster in the quieter, greener hills toward Vailima.
The center has the greatest concentration of dorms and cheap guesthouse rooms, so you can compare a few on foot instead of booking blind. You are within walking distance of the market, the bus terminals, and most restaurants, which makes early starts for day trips simple. Dorm beds generally run WST 50 to 90 (US$18 to 33) a night, and private rooms start at around WST 120 (US$44). The trade-off is noise: roosters, church choirs, and Friday night music from waterfront bars carry well past midnight, so bring earplugs. Streets are generally safe to walk after dark, but taking a taxi for the last stretch is sensible.
The Vailima side suits you if you prefer cool nights, birdsong, and a slower rhythm. Places there are fewer and more spread out, and you will rely on buses or taxis to reach the center, with services getting scarce after dark. Prices are similar, and some offer kitchen use.
Book ahead in July, August, and around early September festivals, when the town’s limited beds fill up fast.

🚌 Getting aroundHow to get around Apia

A bus ride around Apia costs about WST 1 to 4 (roughly US$0.40 to 1.50), paid in cash to the driver when you get off, so keep small coins and notes handy. Those buses are the main way to get around, and they are the most entertaining part of the day: painted wooden-bodied vehicles with thumping bass, slatted windows and bench seats that slap your thighs on every pothole. The center of town is flat and compact enough to cross on foot in 15 to 20 minutes, but the heat and sudden downpours make everything beyond it a transport question. Traffic thickens on the waterfront road in the morning and late afternoon, and nothing runs on a precise timetable.
  • Local buses: Fares run about WST 1 to 4 for trips in and around town, and WST 3 to 8 (US$1 to 3) for longer rides out to the coast and across the
… read more 👉
A bus ride around Apia costs about WST 1 to 4 (roughly US$0.40 to 1.50), paid in cash to the driver when you get off, so keep small coins and notes handy. Those buses are the main way to get around, and they are the most entertaining part of the day: painted wooden-bodied vehicles with thumping bass, slatted windows and bench seats that slap your thighs on every pothole. The center of town is flat and compact enough to cross on foot in 15 to 20 minutes, but the heat and sudden downpours make everything beyond it a transport question. Traffic thickens on the waterfront road in the morning and late afternoon, and nothing runs on a precise timetable.
  • Local buses: Fares run about WST 1 to 4 for trips in and around town, and WST 3 to 8 (US$1 to 3) for longer rides out to the coast and across the island. Most services start around 5:30 or 6 am and thin out through the afternoon, with very few after dark and almost none on Sundays. Hail one by waving from the roadside, and flag the driver when you want off. The main terminal near the Fugalei Market is the place to find the right bus. Learn its signboard, ask the driver, and expect to wait if the bus is not yet full, because many drivers sit until seats fill. Ride at least once, it is the best value in Samoa.
  • Walking: Free, and the right choice for the harbor, the clock tower area, Fugalei Market and the main shopping streets. Start early, before the heat builds by 10 am, and carry a light rain layer because showers arrive fast. Pavements are patchy, so watch your footing and use the road edge carefully after dark.
  • Taxis: Short rides in town cost around WST 8 to 15 (US$3 to 6), and longer rides to the airport side run much higher, about WST 80 to 120 (US$30 to 45) because the airport is far from town. Meters are rare, so agree the fare before you get in. They are the sensible choice at night or when you are carrying a pack, and they are easy to find at the market and near the main hotels.
  • Rental car or scooter: A small car costs roughly WST 120 to 200 (US$45 to 75) a day, plus a local driving permit from a licensing office, which costs a modest fee. Driving is on the left, speed limits are low, and roaming pigs and dogs appear on the road without warning. It is a good option only if you split costs among three or four people and want to reach the south coast beaches and waterfalls at your own pace. Skip it if you only plan to stay in town.

👛 Costs (as of 16 October 2026)How expensive it really is

Backpacking in Apia runs about US$42 to 77 a day, and most of that gap comes down to how often you eat at restaurants instead of market stalls. Prices are in US dollars here, though you pay in Samoan tala on the ground. Apia is the priciest place in Samoa to sleep and eat, yet it is still manageable on a tight budget.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$18 to 25High-season dorm beds sit at the upper end. Private budget rooms start around US$40, so solo travelers save by sharing a dorm.
MealsUS$15 to 25A plate of chop suey, curry or fried chicken with taro at a market or waterfront stall costs US$3 to 6. A sit-down restaurant main is US$10 to 18.
Local transportUS$1 to 4Colorful local buses cost roughly US$0.50 to 1 for a ride within town. Short taxi hops are US$3 to 5.
Basic
… read more 👉
Backpacking in Apia runs about US$42 to 77 a day, and most of that gap comes down to how often you eat at restaurants instead of market stalls. Prices are in US dollars here, though you pay in Samoan tala on the ground. Apia is the priciest place in Samoa to sleep and eat, yet it is still manageable on a tight budget.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$18 to 25High-season dorm beds sit at the upper end. Private budget rooms start around US$40, so solo travelers save by sharing a dorm.
MealsUS$15 to 25A plate of chop suey, curry or fried chicken with taro at a market or waterfront stall costs US$3 to 6. A sit-down restaurant main is US$10 to 18.
Local transportUS$1 to 4Colorful local buses cost roughly US$0.50 to 1 for a ride within town. Short taxi hops are US$3 to 5.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$5 to 15Many sights around town charge small village or site fees of US$3 to 12. Walking the waterfront and browsing the markets is free.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$3 to 8Bottled water, a local Vailima beer at US$3 to 4, sunscreen and mobile data top-ups add up quickly.
Total Daily BudgetUS$42 to 77Use the low end if you eat at stalls and walk. The high end covers a restaurant dinner, a beer and a paid sight.
Cash is the norm at stalls, markets and buses, so withdraw from an ATM in town before heading to villages. To keep costs down, make the Fugalei Market your main kitchen: fresh fruit, baked goods and hot lunch plates there are a fraction of restaurant prices.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsExploring the surroundings

Apia works well as a base for day trips, because most of Upolu’s main sights lie within 30 to 90 minutes by bus, though services thin out by late afternoon.
To Sua Ocean Trench:
A 30 meter drop through a hole in the rainforest leads to a turquoise swimming pool, reached by a steep wooden ladder. Buses to Lotofaga take around 1.5 to 2 hours, and the entry fee is roughly WST 20 to 30, with total costs of about US$15 to 25. Go on a weekday morning before tour vans arrive, and wear shoes with grip because the ladder is slick.
👉 Explore To Sua Ocean Trench
Papase’ea Sliding Rock and Palolo Deep:
Palolo Deep Marine Reserve lies only 10 minutes by bus from town, a sheltered blue hole where you can snorkel among reef fish for an entry fee of about WST 5 to 10. Sliding Rock requires a short walk and a … read more 👉
Apia works well as a base for day trips, because most of Upolu’s main sights lie within 30 to 90 minutes by bus, though services thin out by late afternoon.
To Sua Ocean Trench:
A 30 meter drop through a hole in the rainforest leads to a turquoise swimming pool, reached by a steep wooden ladder. Buses to Lotofaga take around 1.5 to 2 hours, and the entry fee is roughly WST 20 to 30, with total costs of about US$15 to 25. Go on a weekday morning before tour vans arrive, and wear shoes with grip because the ladder is slick.
👉 Explore To Sua Ocean Trench
Papase’ea Sliding Rock and Palolo Deep:
Palolo Deep Marine Reserve lies only 10 minutes by bus from town, a sheltered blue hole where you can snorkel among reef fish for an entry fee of about WST 5 to 10. Sliding Rock requires a short walk and a small fee. Together they cost under US$15 for a half day. Check tides at Palolo, since low water makes entry harder.

Lalomanu Beach:
On Upolu’s southeast tip, a long white sand beach has clear shallow water and open-air beach fales. The bus ride takes about 2 hours each way and costs WST 10 to 15. Many first-timers underestimate how few buses return in the afternoon, so confirm the last departure when you arrive. Dry season gives the calmest water.
👉 Explore Lalomanu Beach
Togitogiga Waterfall:
A small park with terraced pools, perfect for a cooling swim after the ride. Allow about 45 minutes to 1 hour by bus, a small entry fee of WST 5 to 10, and bring your own lunch. Visit after dry days, as heavy rain turns the water muddy.

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

Apia is broadly safe, and most problems are petty. Opportunistic theft from beach bags, unlocked rooms, and unattended phones happens, so leave valuables in your accommodation and keep an eye on belongings at beaches. Walking around town after dark is generally fine in the center, but lighting is patchy and stray dogs roam, so take a taxi for longer distances or when the streets are empty. Solo travelers, including women, usually find locals friendly, though dress modestly in villages and cover your shoulders and knees in towns. Late-night drinking near the waterfront can turn rowdy on Fridays and Saturdays, so move on if the mood changes. Sunday is quiet by law and custom, with many shops closed, and villages hold evening prayers, when you should stay out of the way. Scams are rare, but agree … read more 👉
Apia is broadly safe, and most problems are petty. Opportunistic theft from beach bags, unlocked rooms, and unattended phones happens, so leave valuables in your accommodation and keep an eye on belongings at beaches. Walking around town after dark is generally fine in the center, but lighting is patchy and stray dogs roam, so take a taxi for longer distances or when the streets are empty. Solo travelers, including women, usually find locals friendly, though dress modestly in villages and cover your shoulders and knees in towns. Late-night drinking near the waterfront can turn rowdy on Fridays and Saturdays, so move on if the mood changes. Sunday is quiet by law and custom, with many shops closed, and villages hold evening prayers, when you should stay out of the way. Scams are rare, but agree taxi fares in advance. The more common hazards are sun, rip currents beyond the reef, and aggressive dogs on rural walks.

FAQCommon questions from travelers

Apia is worth a day or two, but it is mainly a gateway to the rest of Upolu. The waterfront, Fugalei Market, and the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum fill a full day, and Palolo Deep is only 10 minutes away by bus. The island’s best swimming and beaches lie 1 to 2 hours outside town.
Plan 2 days in Apia itself and 4 to 7 days for Upolu as a whole. One day covers the market, waterfront, and Vailima with the Mount Vaea walk, and another suits Palolo Deep or Papase’ea Sliding Rock. Add days for To Sua Ocean Trench and Lalomanu Beach on the south and east coasts.
Apia is the main hub, so there is rarely a need to visit it as a day trip from elsewhere. Savai’i is about a 1 hour 30 minute ferry from Upolu’s Mulifanua wharf, plus roughly 45 minutes by road from Apia to the wharf, which makes a day trip too rushed. Visitors from Upolu’s southern beaches can reach Apia by bus in 1 to 2 hours for about WST 5 to 12 each way, so a day in town is feasible.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Ideas for continuing your journey

Apia isn’t the only highlight in Samoa. Explore all what Samoa has to offer.
Country photo of Samoa

We 💚 feedbackParting advice and final tips

Most visitors rush through Apia and miss how much the town’s mornings offer. By 6 a.m. the market, the harbor and the bakeries are alive, and the heat is still bearable. I would set an alarm for it, then nap through the midday swelter like everyone else. Bring small tala notes, since stalls rarely have change.

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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

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