- The root-crop tables: taro, yams and cassava are piled in tidy heaps and sold by the bunch. This is the starch base of Samoan cooking, and the sellers will tell you how to cook each one if you ask.
- Green banana and breadfruit stalls: unripe bananas and breadfruit are boiled or baked in the umu. Seeing the sizes and varieties explains why a Samoan plate looks so heavy.
- Tropical fruit counters: pawpaw, pineapple, watermelon, mangoes and small sweet bananas in season. Buy one ripe fruit and eat it on the spot; the flavor is a long way ahead of anything imported.
- Coconut sellers: green drinking coconuts are opened with a machete in a couple of swings. It is the cheapest cold drink in town and a good way to cool down in the middle of the aisles.
- Leafy greens and vegetables: bundles of taro leaves (the
- The root-crop tables: taro, yams and cassava are piled in tidy heaps and sold by the bunch. This is the starch base of Samoan cooking, and the sellers will tell you how to cook each one if you ask.
- Green banana and breadfruit stalls: unripe bananas and breadfruit are boiled or baked in the umu. Seeing the sizes and varieties explains why a Samoan plate looks so heavy.
- Tropical fruit counters: pawpaw, pineapple, watermelon, mangoes and small sweet bananas in season. Buy one ripe fruit and eat it on the spot; the flavor is a long way ahead of anything imported.
- Coconut sellers: green drinking coconuts are opened with a machete in a couple of swings. It is the cheapest cold drink in town and a good way to cool down in the middle of the aisles.
- Leafy greens and vegetables: bundles of taro leaves (the base of palusami), cucumbers, tomatoes and cabbages sit beside the starches. They are a good way to build a cheap salad or a self-cooked dinner.
- Cooked food and snacks: small vendors sell hot items such as baked goods, boiled bananas and sweet coconut treats. Eat what the locals around you are eating, and it will be fresh.
- Kava roots (ava): dried roots for the ceremonial drink are sold by the bundle. They are a real cultural item here, not a souvenir novelty, and you may see buyers choosing them with great care.
- The early-morning rush: the market is at its best before the sun gets high, when trucks are unloading, sellers are shouting prices and the first shoppers are filling their bags. Arrive then and the whole place has a rhythm you will miss at noon.
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Hi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.