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Tunisia🇹🇳 | townsMetlaouiLézard Rouge, Selja Gorge, phosphate quarter, company town | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Metlaoui
👀 For curious travelerstown ranked #23
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Metlaoui once hummed with phosphate trains and mining company payrolls; today the whistle is mostly for tourists. It sits in the Gafsa governorate in the southwest of Tunisia, close to the Algerian border region. Its charm is the Lézard Rouge train and gorge access, not nightlife. Evenings are quiet, hostels are scarce, so you meet travelers at the station cafés. Buses and louages arrive daily, so book the train ahead. Local guesthouses hand out the best tips. The station clock still keeps the old mining schedule.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #23 town in TunisiaWhy visitors keep coming back

Metlaoui is the jumping-off point for the Selja Gorge and the Lézard Rouge tourist train, which is the reason most people come. Stay one night, two if you want the gorge walk and the mining museum without rushing. It suits slow travelers, rail fans and anyone threading a route between Tozeur and Gafsa. The town is small, the people are curious about visitors, and Mides and Tamerza canyons lie within reach. Nights are very quiet, so bring a book.

💡 HighlightsTop highlights of Metlaoui

  1. Lézard Rouge train: a restored 1930s Bey of Tunis carriage rolls through the Selja Gorge with tunnels and bridges over a dry riverbed. Morning departures are cooler; the ride runs about 2 hours and costs roughly US$20 to 30.
  2. Metlaoui railway station: the colonial-era building is where the tourist train departs. A free 20-minute look around is enough, ideally before boarding.
  3. Phosphate Museum area: the old mining company heritage is explained through photos and equipment. Allow 1 hour; entry is around US$2 to 4.
  4. Old Phosphate Company quarter: the grid of workers’ housing and administrative buildings shows the town’s company-town origins. A relaxed 45-minute walk in the late afternoon is ideal and free.
  5. Central market: a local produce and date market, best in the morning, where you can buy snacks
… read more 👉
  1. Lézard Rouge train: a restored 1930s Bey of Tunis carriage rolls through the Selja Gorge with tunnels and bridges over a dry riverbed. Morning departures are cooler; the ride runs about 2 hours and costs roughly US$20 to 30.
  2. Metlaoui railway station: the colonial-era building is where the tourist train departs. A free 20-minute look around is enough, ideally before boarding.
  3. Phosphate Museum area: the old mining company heritage is explained through photos and equipment. Allow 1 hour; entry is around US$2 to 4.
  4. Old Phosphate Company quarter: the grid of workers’ housing and administrative buildings shows the town’s company-town origins. A relaxed 45-minute walk in the late afternoon is ideal and free.
  5. Central market: a local produce and date market, best in the morning, where you can buy snacks for the train. Allow 30 to 45 minutes; it costs nothing to browse.
Metlaoui is the base for day trips to the canyon oases of Mides and Tamerza and to Chott el Djerid. Ride the Lézard Rouge first, since morning departures give the best light inside the gorge and fill up fast.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near Metlaoui

Half-day excursion the mountain oases from Tozeur

Half-day excursion the mountain oases from Tozeur

4.8(61)
From €56
per personViator
Tozeur: Tamerza, Chebika, Mides and Star Wars locations Day Tour

Tozeur: Tamerza, Chebika, Mides and Star Wars locations Day Tour

4.5(26) 8h
From €118
per personViator
Tozeur and the mountain Oasis

Tozeur and the mountain Oasis

5.0(19) 72h
From €1,000
per personViator
Half Day Star Wars Film Set Locations Private Tour from Tozeur

Half Day Star Wars Film Set Locations Private Tour from Tozeur

4.6(14) 4h
From €127
per personViator
Tamerza Canyon Oasis Tour

Tamerza Canyon Oasis Tour

4.9(11) 8h
From €86
per personViator
Tozeur Private Half-Day Tour: Tamerza, Chebika and Mides Canyons

Tozeur Private Half-Day Tour: Tamerza, Chebika and Mides Canyons

5.0(9) 4h
From €90
per personViator
Tamerza, Chebika, Mides Canyons and Star Wars Full-Day Tour

Tamerza, Chebika, Mides Canyons and Star Wars Full-Day Tour

5.0(7) 6h
From €115
per personViator
Full day Star Wars Tour

Full day Star Wars Tour

4.3(10)
From €135
per personViator
Half-day Ong Jemel & Mos Espa from Tozeur

Half-day Ong Jemel & Mos Espa from Tozeur

4.4(9)
From €70
per personViator
Discovery tour of Southern Tunisia

Discovery tour of Southern Tunisia

5.0(6) 48h
From €268
per personViator

Ratings based on Tripadvisor reviews. When you book through this link, you support our work at no extra cost to you.

🏘️ NeighborhoodsNeighborhood guide to Metlaoui

Metlaoui is small enough that you can sort it into three areas before your coffee cools.
  • Avenue Habib Bourguiba and the center: The main strip holds the cafés, bakeries, pharmacies and the louage stop. Phosphate money built the wide streets, so everything is flat and walkable. Eat grilled meat and fresh bread here, and expect men on café terraces to outnumber women by a margin that never changes.
  • The old station quarter: This is where the Lézard Rouge tourist train leaves, and the old French-built railway houses give it a faded company-town look. Go on a train morning and be there early, because the platform wakes up before the town does.
  • Phosphate company district: Quiet streets of mining-era buildings. Nothing to order, but a pleasant stroll, and the best place to see why the town exists at all.

⌛️ 1 daySeeing the highlights in 24 hours

This is a rail-and-rock day, built around the old phosphate line and the canyon country just outside town.
8:00 AM: Metlaoui train station
Start where the Lézard Rouge tourist train departs, a restored 1930s Bey carriage line. Look at the station building and the old phosphate company architecture, then grab coffee and a bread roll from a café across the street.
9:30 AM: Phosphate Company district and miners’ quarter
Walk the colonial-era streets behind the station, where the company housing still stands in tidy rows. Few travelers wander here, and residents are happy to point out which buildings once belonged to the mining administration.
11:30 AM: Metlaoui Museum
A small stop on the main road with mining tools and local history. Give it 45 minutes, then walk back toward the center.
1:00 PM: Lunch … read more 👉
This is a rail-and-rock day, built around the old phosphate line and the canyon country just outside town.
8:00 AM: Metlaoui train station
Start where the Lézard Rouge tourist train departs, a restored 1930s Bey carriage line. Look at the station building and the old phosphate company architecture, then grab coffee and a bread roll from a café across the street.
9:30 AM: Phosphate Company district and miners’ quarter
Walk the colonial-era streets behind the station, where the company housing still stands in tidy rows. Few travelers wander here, and residents are happy to point out which buildings once belonged to the mining administration.
11:30 AM: Metlaoui Museum
A small stop on the main road with mining tools and local history. Give it 45 minutes, then walk back toward the center.
1:00 PM: Lunch in the center
Pick a simple grill place and order lamb or chicken with salad and bread.
3:00 PM: Mides Canyon
Share a taxi out to the canyon edge. Walk the rim and descend into the dry gorge while the afternoon light deepens the rock colors. Arrange the ride back before you leave.

🌤️ When to go?Weather, crowds, and seasonal trade-offs

Metlaoui is best in spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November), when days run 20 to 28°C (68 to 82°F) and the Selja Gorge stays comfortable.
  • Summer: 38 to 45°C (100 to 113°F), and midday is for shade only.
  • Winter: 5 to 17°C (41 to 63°F), with chilly nights, short daylight and fewer tourists.
  • Late December: Desert tours from Tozeur fill up and prices rise.
Book the Lézard Rouge a day ahead in spring, since seats are limited.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: good for travelingFEBFebruary: good for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: excellent for travelingMAYMay: excellent for travelingJUNJune: fair for travelingJULJuly: below average for travelingAUGAugust: below average for travelingSEPSeptember: good for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: good for travelingDECDecember: good for traveling
when-to-go

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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas to stay in Tunisia

The center around Avenue Habib Bourguiba is the best bet for a budget bed in Metlaoui, with guesthouses and small hotels at roughly US$15 to 30 a night. Dedicated hostels barely exist, so expect private rooms rather than dorms. The streets are calm at night, café noise fades by about 10 pm, and the louage stop and railway station are a short walk away. If you want a more traditional stay, Tozeur has far more budget beds and is a 45 to 60 minute louage ride.
Best hostels in Tunisia


Best quality hotels in Tunisia

🚌 Getting aroundTransportation options and practical tips

From Metlaoui’s small railway station, the center is a flat 5 to 10 minute walk, so skip the taxi drivers who will cheerfully suggest otherwise. The town is compact, traffic is light, and public transport is mostly informal. Distances look short on a map but the desert heat makes them feel longer by noon.
  • Walking: Free and enough for the whole center. Carry water from April to October.
  • Louage (shared taxi): These leave when full, not on a schedule, so arrive before noon. Gafsa costs about US$2 to 3, Tozeur about US$4 to 6, and rides take 45 to 90 minutes.
  • Taxi: Short town rides cost US$1 to 2 and a Selja Gorge round trip with waiting is about US$20 to 30. Agree the fare first, because meters are optional.
  • Lézard Rouge train: This restored 1930s beylical train runs the gorge route in the tourist
… read more 👉
From Metlaoui’s small railway station, the center is a flat 5 to 10 minute walk, so skip the taxi drivers who will cheerfully suggest otherwise. The town is compact, traffic is light, and public transport is mostly informal. Distances look short on a map but the desert heat makes them feel longer by noon.
  • Walking: Free and enough for the whole center. Carry water from April to October.
  • Louage (shared taxi): These leave when full, not on a schedule, so arrive before noon. Gafsa costs about US$2 to 3, Tozeur about US$4 to 6, and rides take 45 to 90 minutes.
  • Taxi: Short town rides cost US$1 to 2 and a Selja Gorge round trip with waiting is about US$20 to 30. Agree the fare first, because meters are optional.
  • Lézard Rouge train: This restored 1930s beylical train runs the gorge route in the tourist season for about US$12 to 20. It is slow on purpose and sells out in peak months.

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)How expensive it really is

Metlaoui costs about US$37 to 76 a day for a backpacker, and nearly all of it goes on a bed and food.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$15 to 30Mostly private budget rooms, since true dorms are rare.
MealsUS$8 to 15Sandwiches cost US$1.50 to 3, and grilled dinner costs US$5 to 9.
Local transportUS$2 to 6Louages and short taxi rides.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$10 to 20Lézard Rouge train fares dominate this.
MiscellaneousUS$2 to 5Water, coffee at US$0.70 to 1.20, SIM data.
Total Daily BudgetUS$37 to 76Based on high-season rates.
Eat where the miners do, at the small counters on the main avenue, and your food bill drops sharply.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsBest day trips from Metlaoui

Metlaoui works well as a base for the gorges and oases of the southwest, mostly by louage or a negotiated taxi.
Selja Gorge:
The Lézard Rouge train climbs through red canyon walls and tunnels, about 2 hours round trip. Go in spring or autumn. First-timers often miss the train and have to pay a taxi, so reserve ahead. Budget US$12 to 20.

Mides and Tamerza:
These canyon villages near the Algerian border have waterfalls and abandoned oasis ruins. Taxi hire runs about US$35 to 55, and the drive takes roughly 1 hour each way. Visit in winter or spring, as summer glare is fierce.

Tozeur:
Palm groves and brick alleys sit about 1 hour away by louage for US$4 to 6. Leave early, because the return louages thin out by mid-afternoon.
👉 Explore Tozeur

🛡️ SafetySafety Tips and Common Scams in Metlaoui

Metlaoui is calm and low in crime, and solo travelers, including women, mostly face stares rather than danger. Dress modestly and answer attention with a polite, firm no. The usual annoyance is taxi drivers quoting inflated fares, so agree the price first. Gorge guides may push extras, so decline politely. At night the center stays quiet, but pavements are poorly lit, so carry a phone light.
Check Country Safety

FAQCommon questions from travelers

Metlaoui is worth a stop of a night or two rather than a long stay. The Lézard Rouge train through Selja Gorge is the main draw, and Tamerza and Mides canyons lie about an hour away. The town itself is a quiet phosphate-mining center with few sights.
Metlaoui needs one to two days. One day covers the Lézard Rouge train ride of about 2 hours plus a stroll along the main avenue, and a second day lets you hire a taxi to Mides and Tamerza for roughly US$35 to 55.
Metlaoui can be reached as a day trip from Tozeur, about 45 to 60 minutes by louage for US$4 to 6, or from Gafsa in a similar time for US$2 to 3. Make it a full day if you ride the Lézard Rouge, and leave by mid-afternoon, since louages become scarce in the evening.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Tunisian towns near Metlaoui

Explore more nearby:

  • Redeyef—Seldja Gorge, mine overlooks, miners’ housing, Atlas ridges| 24 km away
  • Mides—Canyon rim, ruined mud-brick village, border cliffs, desert roses| 45 km away
  • Tozeur—Patterned yellow brick, palm oasis, date farms, chott gateway| 52 km away

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We 💚 feedbackParting advice and final tips

Metlaoui is best in the cool months, and best in the morning when the train rolls out and the gorge light is soft. Book the ride early, skip midday heat, and bring a scarf for the dusty tunnels.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on in-depth research, insights shared by experienced travelers, and feedback from the local travel community in Tunisia. While every effort is made to keep the information accurate and current, conditions can change — so if you spot anything incorrect or outdated, please get in touch.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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