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the UK🇬🇧 | townsKirkwallNorse cathedral, harbour piers, Orkney hub | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Kirkwall
👀 For curious travelerstown ranked #28
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 16, 2026

Most people picture Kirkwall as a sleepy ferry port you just pass through; in reality it’s the small, workaday heart of Orkney with more texture than the brochures admit. Sitting on Mainland Orkney off Scotland’s north coast in the UK, it works best as a practical base rather than a destination city. You get a compact stone-built center around St Magnus Cathedral, a harbour that smells of salt and seaweed, and easy bus links to the big-ticket sites like Skara Brae and the Ring of Brodgar. It’s walkable, safe, and calm, with a couple of hostels and pubs where you’ll meet other backpackers in summer, but evenings skew more “nursing a pint while the wind howls outside” than big nights out. Compared with Stromness it feels busier and more functional, less pretty, but better for supplies, onward ferries, and slotting a few low-key days into a longer Scotland route without hammering your budget.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #28 town in the UK
Why visitors keep coming back

Kirkwall is a backpacker’s hub in the UK, perfectly positioned for hikes and cultural sites. The walkable streets invite exploration, with cozy hostels and guesthouses offering a homey feel. You’ll find local food experiences that reflect the island’s character, from fresh seafood to hearty fare. Many travelers linger a few days, soaking in the friendly atmosphere and connecting with fellow adventurers. It’s ideal for slow travelers and solo backpackers who appreciate a mix of quiet reflection and casual socializing. If you’re looking for a base to explore the Orkney Islands, Kirkwall is your launchpad.

💡 HighlightsWhat this place is best known for

  1. St Magnus Cathedral — The heart of Kirkwall: imposing red sandstone, medieval carvings, the tomb of St Magnus and surprisingly atmospheric light inside. Climb the tower (when open) or join a short guided tour to pick up the Norse stories that make the place tick.
  2. The Earl’s Palace — Dramatic 17th-century ruin with crumbling staircases and a real sense of political soap opera (think feuding earls and royal displeasure). It’s right beside the cathedral and gives great context to Orkney’s power struggles after the Middle Ages.
  3. The Bishop’s Palace — Smaller and moodier than the Earl’s Palace, this set of ruins and grassy courts tells the ecclesiastical side of Kirkwall’s past; great for wandering, photos and imagining medieval life.
  4. Tankerness House / Orkney Museum — A compact townhouse-turned-museum
… read more 👉
  1. St Magnus Cathedral — The heart of Kirkwall: imposing red sandstone, medieval carvings, the tomb of St Magnus and surprisingly atmospheric light inside. Climb the tower (when open) or join a short guided tour to pick up the Norse stories that make the place tick.
  2. The Earl’s Palace — Dramatic 17th-century ruin with crumbling staircases and a real sense of political soap opera (think feuding earls and royal displeasure). It’s right beside the cathedral and gives great context to Orkney’s power struggles after the Middle Ages.
  3. The Bishop’s Palace — Smaller and moodier than the Earl’s Palace, this set of ruins and grassy courts tells the ecclesiastical side of Kirkwall’s past; great for wandering, photos and imagining medieval life.
  4. Tankerness House / Orkney Museum — A compact townhouse-turned-museum full of Pictish stones, Viking finds and local social history. If you want the archaeological highlights without leaving town, this is it.
  5. Orkneyinga Saga Centre — Short, sharp introduction to the Norse sagas and Orkney’s Viking roots, with maps, displays and a film to tie it together. Useful if you want the backstory before hitting wider island archaeology.
  6. Highland Park Distillery — Famous local whisky produced in Kirkwall; tours and tastings explain the peat, the old methods and the stories behind the bottles. Book ahead if you want a proper tasting slot.
  7. Kirkwall Harbour & Fish Quay — The working waterfront where ferries, fishing boats and wildlife meet; good for seal-spotting, watching boats come and go, and sampling fresh seafood. Also where many boat trips to nearby islands start.
  8. Broad Street & Cathedral Close — Not just a shopping street: narrow closes, independent craft shops, bakeries and cafes clustered around the cathedral give a real feel for daily life in Kirkwall. Walk slowly — the best discoveries are the small bakeries and local studios tucked off the main drag.
  9. Orkney Library & Archive — Small but rich: local archives, historic photographs, ship records and genealogy resources. If you’re curious about family history or local life, the staff are helpful and the collections are worth a browse.
  10. The Kirkwall Ba (town game) — Not a building but a living tradition: a town-wide handball match played on Christmas and New Year’s Day that’s utterly Orkney. If you’re in town for it, it’s a brilliant, chaotic slice of local culture — if not, the story of the Ba still tells you a lot about community identity here.
A few great day trips just outside Kirkwall: the Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm, the Neolithic sites around Stenness (Ring of Brodgar, Maeshowe, Skara Brae). My personal favourite for a day out is the Italian Chapel — tiny, moving and unexpectedly beautiful.
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Things to do around Kirkwall

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🏘️ NeighborhoodsHow different areas shape the experience

Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney, offers a unique blend of history and coastal charm. Each neighborhood has its own character, making it essential to choose wisely.

City Center: This is the heartbeat of Kirkwall. You’ll find shops, cafes, and the iconic St. Magnus Cathedral. It’s walkable, buzzing with energy, and perfect for short stays. Prices can be higher here, but the convenience is worth it.

Harbour Area: A quieter vibe with stunning views of the water. Ideal for those seeking a peaceful retreat. It’s a bit farther from nightlife but offers easy access to ferries for island hopping. Great for longer stays if you want to unwind.

St. Ola: A residential area with a local feel. It’s less touristy, making it budget-friendly. Walkable to the center, but expect a slower pace. Perfect for … read more 👉
Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney, offers a unique blend of history and coastal charm. Each neighborhood has its own character, making it essential to choose wisely.

City Center: This is the heartbeat of Kirkwall. You’ll find shops, cafes, and the iconic St. Magnus Cathedral. It’s walkable, buzzing with energy, and perfect for short stays. Prices can be higher here, but the convenience is worth it.

Harbour Area: A quieter vibe with stunning views of the water. Ideal for those seeking a peaceful retreat. It’s a bit farther from nightlife but offers easy access to ferries for island hopping. Great for longer stays if you want to unwind.

St. Ola: A residential area with a local feel. It’s less touristy, making it budget-friendly. Walkable to the center, but expect a slower pace. Perfect for immersing yourself in daily life while still being close to the action.

⌛️ 1 dayWhat you can realistically do in a day

Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney, is a blend of rich history and vibrant local life. The air here carries a hint of the sea, mingling with the earthy scent of ancient stone. Start your morning at the iconic St. Magnus Cathedral, where the red sandstone glows warmly in the early light. Take a moment to soak in the intricate carvings and the peaceful atmosphere before wandering through the nearby streets of the Old Town, where charming shops beckon with local crafts.

In the afternoon, head to the Orkney Museum. It’s often overlooked, but it’s a treasure trove of artifacts that tell the story of the islands. The cozy café nearby serves a mean bowl of Cullen skink, perfect for recharging. Afterward, stroll along the waterfront, where the salty breeze invigorates your spirit.

As evening falls, … read more 👉
Kirkwall, the capital of Orkney, is a blend of rich history and vibrant local life. The air here carries a hint of the sea, mingling with the earthy scent of ancient stone. Start your morning at the iconic St. Magnus Cathedral, where the red sandstone glows warmly in the early light. Take a moment to soak in the intricate carvings and the peaceful atmosphere before wandering through the nearby streets of the Old Town, where charming shops beckon with local crafts.

In the afternoon, head to the Orkney Museum. It’s often overlooked, but it’s a treasure trove of artifacts that tell the story of the islands. The cozy café nearby serves a mean bowl of Cullen skink, perfect for recharging. Afterward, stroll along the waterfront, where the salty breeze invigorates your spirit.

As evening falls, find your way to the local pub, The Reel, where you can enjoy live music and a pint of Orkney beer. The warmth of the community here is palpable, making it a perfect end to your day.

🌤️ When to go?Weather, crowds, and seasonal trade-offs

  • Weather: Kirkwall’s weather swings from chilly winters around 1°C (34°F) to mild summers near 15°C (59°F). Spring and early autumn offer crisp, clear days without the biting wind that can make winter feel harsher than it is.
  • Daylight Hours: Summer stretches daylight up to 18 hours, perfect for long hikes and exploring ruins in soft golden light. Winter shrinks it to about 6 hours, making outdoor adventures feel rushed and dim.
  • Crowds: Peak summer (June to August) draws most visitors, especially around local festivals, so expect busier streets and higher prices. Shoulder seasons are quieter, giving you space to breathe and absorb the town’s character.
  • Seasonal Activities: Summer hosts the Orkney Folk Festival and open-air events, while winter offers cozy pub nights and the chance to spot
… read more 👉
  • Weather: Kirkwall’s weather swings from chilly winters around 1°C (34°F) to mild summers near 15°C (59°F). Spring and early autumn offer crisp, clear days without the biting wind that can make winter feel harsher than it is.
  • Daylight Hours: Summer stretches daylight up to 18 hours, perfect for long hikes and exploring ruins in soft golden light. Winter shrinks it to about 6 hours, making outdoor adventures feel rushed and dim.
  • Crowds: Peak summer (June to August) draws most visitors, especially around local festivals, so expect busier streets and higher prices. Shoulder seasons are quieter, giving you space to breathe and absorb the town’s character.
  • Seasonal Activities: Summer hosts the Orkney Folk Festival and open-air events, while winter offers cozy pub nights and the chance to spot northern lights if you’re lucky.
  • Price Fluctuations: Accommodation and travel costs spike in summer. Booking in shoulder seasons like May or September can save money and still deliver decent weather and daylight.
Pro-tip: Aim for late May or early September—cool enough to dodge crowds, warm enough to enjoy long days, and just right for snagging better deals.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: good for travelingAPRApril: good for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: highly recommended for travelingOCTOctober: good for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas to stay in the UK

Kirkwall’s heart is where backpackers find their rhythm—around the town center near the harbor. This area hums with life: narrow streets lined with cozy pubs, local bakeries sending out warm, yeasty scents, and a steady flow of travelers swapping stories. It’s safe, compact, and easy to navigate on foot, which means you’re never far from the buzz or the quiet corners. Hostels cluster here, offering a social vibe that’s perfect for solo travelers looking to connect without the hassle of long commutes. Compared to the quieter residential edges, staying central means you soak in Kirkwall’s pulse—the … read more 👉
Kirkwall’s heart is where backpackers find their rhythm—around the town center near the harbor. This area hums with life: narrow streets lined with cozy pubs, local bakeries sending out warm, yeasty scents, and a steady flow of travelers swapping stories. It’s safe, compact, and easy to navigate on foot, which means you’re never far from the buzz or the quiet corners. Hostels cluster here, offering a social vibe that’s perfect for solo travelers looking to connect without the hassle of long commutes. Compared to the quieter residential edges, staying central means you soak in Kirkwall’s pulse—the salty air, the clink of glasses, the soft glow of street lamps—making every evening feel like part of the adventure.

🚌 Getting aroundHow to get from A to B

Kirkwall moves at its own pace—less a ticking clock, more a gentle tide. The air carries a salty tang from the nearby sea, mixed with the faint smoke of peat fires burning in hearths. Streets are narrow, cobbled, and often quiet, except when locals gather for a chat or a quick errand. This isn’t a place where you’ll find rigid schedules or frantic rushes. Instead, it’s about flowing with the rhythm of the town, where timing is flexible but the connections between places are straightforward. Knowing how to navigate Kirkwall’s transit options means you spend less time waiting and more time soaking in the atmosphere.
  • Walking: Kirkwall’s compact center makes walking the best way to explore. Most sights are within a 15-minute stroll, letting you catch the scent of sea air and the texture of ancient
… read more 👉
Kirkwall moves at its own pace—less a ticking clock, more a gentle tide. The air carries a salty tang from the nearby sea, mixed with the faint smoke of peat fires burning in hearths. Streets are narrow, cobbled, and often quiet, except when locals gather for a chat or a quick errand. This isn’t a place where you’ll find rigid schedules or frantic rushes. Instead, it’s about flowing with the rhythm of the town, where timing is flexible but the connections between places are straightforward. Knowing how to navigate Kirkwall’s transit options means you spend less time waiting and more time soaking in the atmosphere.
  • Walking: Kirkwall’s compact center makes walking the best way to explore. Most sights are within a 15-minute stroll, letting you catch the scent of sea air and the texture of ancient stone underfoot.
  • Local Bus: The Stagecoach buses run from early morning (around 7:30 am) until early evening (about 6 pm). A single fare costs roughly £2.50, offering a slow but scenic ride to nearby villages.
  • Bicycle Rental: For about £10-15 per day, renting a bike lets you cover more ground without losing the fresh breeze and open views. Kirkwall’s flat terrain makes cycling easy and enjoyable.
  • Taxi: Taxis are available but pricey—expect to pay £10-15 for short trips. Best saved for late nights or when you’re hauling gear.

👛 Costs (as of 16 October 2026)Travel costs and budget guide for Kirkwall

Backpacking in Kirkwall, UK, carries a distinct rhythm shaped by its remote island vibe and modest tourist infrastructure. The costs reflect a balance between basic necessities and the occasional splurge on local culture.
  • Dorm Accommodation: Expect to pay around $30 to $50 per night for a bed in a hostel dorm. Kirkwall’s options are limited, so booking ahead is wise, especially in peak season. The rooms are simple but clean, often with shared bathrooms and a cozy, communal feel.
  • Meals: Food prices here lean toward the higher side due to the island’s supply chain. Budget about $10 to $15 for a casual meal at a pub or café—think hearty fish and chips or a local meat pie. Groceries for self-catering can be cheaper but still expect to spend around $7 to $10 per day if you’re buying basics like
… read more 👉
Backpacking in Kirkwall, UK, carries a distinct rhythm shaped by its remote island vibe and modest tourist infrastructure. The costs reflect a balance between basic necessities and the occasional splurge on local culture.
  • Dorm Accommodation: Expect to pay around $30 to $50 per night for a bed in a hostel dorm. Kirkwall’s options are limited, so booking ahead is wise, especially in peak season. The rooms are simple but clean, often with shared bathrooms and a cozy, communal feel.
  • Meals: Food prices here lean toward the higher side due to the island’s supply chain. Budget about $10 to $15 for a casual meal at a pub or café—think hearty fish and chips or a local meat pie. Groceries for self-catering can be cheaper but still expect to spend around $7 to $10 per day if you’re buying basics like bread, cheese, and fresh produce.
  • Local Transport: Kirkwall is compact, so walking covers most needs. However, if you plan to explore nearby islands or take buses, budget around $5 to $10 daily. Bus services are infrequent, so timing is key to avoid long waits.
  • Basic Activities/Entry Fees: Many cultural sites, like the St. Magnus Cathedral, have free entry or accept small donations. Museums and heritage centers charge between $5 and $10. Guided tours or boat trips to nearby islands can push this higher, around $30 to $50, but they’re worth it for the unique perspective.
  • Miscellaneous Expenses: Factor in about $5 to $10 for essentials like bottled water, snacks, or a local SIM card top-up. Kirkwall’s shops are small, so prices can be a bit inflated compared to mainland UK.

All told, a realistic daily budget for backpacking in Kirkwall ranges from about $60 to $90. This covers the basics without cutting corners but leaves room for a few local experiences. The island’s light shifts quickly with the weather, so having a flexible schedule and a bit of patience pays off more than rushing through.


source: visitscotland.com
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsWhere to go beyond the main area

Kirkwall is a fantastic base for day trips, offering a blend of history, nature, and local culture. Here are some standout options that will make your backpacking adventure truly rewarding.

St. Magnus Cathedral
Just a short walk from Kirkwall, this striking red sandstone cathedral is a must-see. The intricate carvings and soaring ceilings create an atmosphere that feels both sacred and welcoming. Spend an hour or two exploring, then grab a coffee at a nearby café to soak in the local vibe. The best time to visit is during the summer when the light streams through the stained glass, illuminating the interior. Don’t rush; many first-timers miss the small museum tucked away in the back.


Orkney’s Neolithic Sites
A 30-minute bus ride takes you to the heart of Orkney’s ancient history. Sites … read more 👉
Kirkwall is a fantastic base for day trips, offering a blend of history, nature, and local culture. Here are some standout options that will make your backpacking adventure truly rewarding.

St. Magnus Cathedral
Just a short walk from Kirkwall, this striking red sandstone cathedral is a must-see. The intricate carvings and soaring ceilings create an atmosphere that feels both sacred and welcoming. Spend an hour or two exploring, then grab a coffee at a nearby café to soak in the local vibe. The best time to visit is during the summer when the light streams through the stained glass, illuminating the interior. Don’t rush; many first-timers miss the small museum tucked away in the back.


Orkney’s Neolithic Sites
A 30-minute bus ride takes you to the heart of Orkney’s ancient history. Sites like Skara Brae and Maeshowe offer a glimpse into life thousands of years ago. The chill in the air adds to the mystique, especially when you stand in the stone structures. Allocate a full day to explore, as the bus schedules can be sparse. Bring a packed lunch to enjoy amidst the ruins. Many visitors underestimate the time needed to truly appreciate these sites.


Hoy Island
Catch a ferry from Houton, just a short drive from Kirkwall, and you’ll find yourself on Hoy Island, known for its dramatic cliffs and the iconic Old Man of Hoy. The hike to the cliffs is invigorating, with the salty sea breeze and the sound of waves crashing below. Plan for a full day, as the ferry schedule can be tricky. Bring sturdy shoes and a camera; the views are breathtaking. First-timers often miss the last ferry back, so keep an eye on the clock.


Rousay Island
A quick ferry ride from Kirkwall leads you to Rousay, often called the ”Egypt of the North” for its rich archaeological sites. The island is small, making it easy to explore on foot or by bike. The rugged landscape and the scent of wildflowers in spring create a serene backdrop. Plan for a leisurely day, and don’t forget to check out the local café for homemade treats. Many backpackers overlook the island, thinking it’s too remote, but it’s worth every minute.

🛡️ SafetyStaying Safe: What Travelers Should Know

Kirkwall is generally safe, but a few tips can enhance your experience. Stay aware in crowded areas, especially near the harbor and local markets, where pickpockets might lurk. If you’re solo and out after dark, stick to well-lit streets and avoid quiet alleys. Most locals are friendly, but be cautious of overly eager vendors; if a deal seems too good, it probably is. Carry yourself confidently, and don’t hesitate to ask locals for advice—they often have the best insights on navigating the town smoothly.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Yes, Kirkwall is worth visiting for its rich Norse history and well-preserved medieval architecture, including St. Magnus Cathedral. It offers more than just a stopover with local museums, shops, and cafes to explore.
Two to three days are sufficient to explore Kirkwall thoroughly, including visits to the cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, and nearby archaeological sites. This allows time to enjoy the local culture and possibly a day trip to nearby islands.
No, Kirkwall is not practical as a day trip from a nearby city due to its remote location in the Orkney Islands. Travel typically involves a ferry or flight from mainland Scotland, making overnight stays necessary.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other British towns near Kirkwall

Explore more nearby:

  • Lerwick—Shetland port, stone lanes, fishing fleet| 165 km away
  • Inverness—River Ness, Highland gateway, Victorian market| 183 km away
  • Fort William—Ben Nevis base, rail terminus, lochside high street| 272 km away

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We 💚 feedbackParting advice and final tips

Kirkwall’s charm lies in its rich history, where ancient stone circles whisper tales of the past. But be ready for the weather; it can shift from sunny to stormy in minutes. Embrace the unpredictability, and you’ll find the town’s character shines brightest in the rain.

✈️ When did I visit the UK?
United Kingdom being my neighbour country with just the North Sea separating us, I visited it multiple times. In May 2015 I had a car trip through Southern England and Wales. In July 2023 I backpacked through Northern Ireland and in October 2023 I visited a friend I met in Pakistan, who showed me around Isle of Skye and Ullapool.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in the UK, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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👋 Meet the founderWho’s Behind Take Your Backpack?

Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

The goal is to provide realistic, experience-driven guidance — not generic itineraries — so you can explore destinations with better context, clearer expectations, and more confidence.