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Argentina🇦🇷 | townsEsquelNarrow-gauge steam train, Los Alerces gateway, wind-scoured steppe, hostel kitchens | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Esquel
👌 Worth visitingtown ranked #14
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

Do you base yourself here for days chasing Los Alerces, or treat it as a one-night refuel between bus rides? That's the real question in Esquel, a Patagonian town in Chubut province, gateway to Los Alerces National Park and the old La Trochita steam train. You get cheap hostels, friendly locals and easy access to glacial lakes and trekking, while the town itself is plain, wind-scoured and short on nightlife. It works best as a base, not a destination. Buses connect it to Bariloche and Trevelin; the center is walkable, evenings are quiet, and you'll meet fellow hikers easily in hostel kitchens.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #14 town in ArgentinaReasons people choose to visit here

Esquel earns its place on the route as a launchpad, not a headline act. The main draw is proximity: Los Alerces National Park is close enough for a long day trip, and the historic La Trochita steam train departs right from town. Its small hostels foster a genuinely social atmosphere, the kind where you swap trail notes over mate rather than bar-hop. Streets are walkable and compact, so you won't waste daylight figuring out logistics. Most backpackers stay two to four days: enough time for one big hike, the train ride, and a rest day. This suits hikers, slow travelers, and solo backpackers who want quiet evenings over loud nights. Don't expect urban buzz here; the town's value lies entirely in what surrounds it, not what's inside it.

💡 HighlightsKey sights and experiences for travelers

  1. La Trochita (Old Patagonian Express): The narrow-gauge steam train reached Esquel in 1945 and still puffs out of the station on Brown Street. The tourist run to Nahuel Pan takes about three hours round trip, with a stop at a small Mapuche-Tehuelche craft stand. Go on a clear afternoon for the best light on the steppe. Expect roughly US$25 to 40, and check the schedule at the station because departures are limited.
  2. Museo Histórico Municipal: The town museum at Mitre and San Martín covers Welsh settlement, Indigenous history and the arrival of the railway in compact rooms. Allow 45 minutes to 1 hour. Entry is low, around US$1 to 3, and it works well on a gray or windy day.
  3. Estación Ferrocarril Roca and the Museo de La Trochita: The station building houses old locomotives, carriages and workshop
… read more 👉
  1. La Trochita (Old Patagonian Express): The narrow-gauge steam train reached Esquel in 1945 and still puffs out of the station on Brown Street. The tourist run to Nahuel Pan takes about three hours round trip, with a stop at a small Mapuche-Tehuelche craft stand. Go on a clear afternoon for the best light on the steppe. Expect roughly US$25 to 40, and check the schedule at the station because departures are limited.
  2. Museo Histórico Municipal: The town museum at Mitre and San Martín covers Welsh settlement, Indigenous history and the arrival of the railway in compact rooms. Allow 45 minutes to 1 hour. Entry is low, around US$1 to 3, and it works well on a gray or windy day.
  3. Estación Ferrocarril Roca and the Museo de La Trochita: The station building houses old locomotives, carriages and workshop tools. It is free or nearly free to wander, takes 30 to 45 minutes, and is best before a train departs, when the engines are being fired up.
  4. Plaza San Martín and the Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria: The central square is where locals gather with mate in the afternoon, and the church sits right beside it. Free, 30 minutes, best in the late afternoon when the square fills up. Nearby cafés make an easy stop for a hot chocolate and a pastry.
  5. Laguna La Zeta: This small lake on the edge of town is a short walk or ride from the center. Locals jog, fish and watch birds here, and the Andes show on the horizon on clear days. Free, about 1 hour, best at dusk.
If you only have one visit, ride La Trochita, because nothing else in Esquel captures the steppe and the town’s railway story so well. Esquel also works as a launch point for day trips to Los Alerces National Park, the Welsh village of Trevelin and the Cerro La Hoya ski area.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

🏘️ NeighborhoodsKey areas and districts to know

Esquel is small enough that you won't need a map for long, but knowing where things cluster saves you legwork.
  • Centro (Downtown): The commercial core along Avenida Fontana and Roca, packed with budget eateries, the bus terminal nearby, and most hostels within a 10-minute walk. Stay here if you're short on time; everything, including La Trochita's station, sits within reach on foot.
  • Barrio Ceferino: A quieter residential pocket east of downtown, cheaper but a 15-20 minute walk from the action. Good if you want lower prices and don't mind the extra stroll, though street lighting thins out at night.
  • Near the bus terminal: Practical for one-night stays before an early departure to Bariloche or Trevelin; noisier, less charming, but you'll never miss a bus.
  • Outskirts toward Los Alerces road: A few guesthouses
… read more 👉
Esquel is small enough that you won't need a map for long, but knowing where things cluster saves you legwork.
  • Centro (Downtown): The commercial core along Avenida Fontana and Roca, packed with budget eateries, the bus terminal nearby, and most hostels within a 10-minute walk. Stay here if you're short on time; everything, including La Trochita's station, sits within reach on foot.
  • Barrio Ceferino: A quieter residential pocket east of downtown, cheaper but a 15-20 minute walk from the action. Good if you want lower prices and don't mind the extra stroll, though street lighting thins out at night.
  • Near the bus terminal: Practical for one-night stays before an early departure to Bariloche or Trevelin; noisier, less charming, but you'll never miss a bus.
  • Outskirts toward Los Alerces road: A few guesthouses sit here for travelers prioritizing an early start into the park, trading walkability for a head start on the trail.

⌛️ 1 daySeeing the highlights in 24 hours

8:00 AM: Café on Avenida Alvear Start with coffee and medialunas where locals read the paper. Then walk five minutes to the central plaza and take in the Andean skyline over the rooftops.
9:30 AM: La Trochita Station Visit the old railway station and its small museum, where the steam locomotives and wooden carriages of the narrow-gauge line sit under a tin roof. Walk back toward the center afterward.
11:30 AM: Cerro La Cruz viewpoint Walk to the Cerro La Cruz viewpoint trail on the edge of town. The climb takes about an hour and gives you the whole valley and the snow-streaked peaks beyond.
1:30 PM: Lunch at a parrilla Order lamb or a lomo sandwich at a neighborhood grill away from the main strip. Portions are large, so share if you plan to walk more.
3:30 PM: Laguna La Zeta This quiet lagoon … read more 👉
8:00 AM: Café on Avenida Alvear Start with coffee and medialunas where locals read the paper. Then walk five minutes to the central plaza and take in the Andean skyline over the rooftops.
9:30 AM: La Trochita Station Visit the old railway station and its small museum, where the steam locomotives and wooden carriages of the narrow-gauge line sit under a tin roof. Walk back toward the center afterward.
11:30 AM: Cerro La Cruz viewpoint Walk to the Cerro La Cruz viewpoint trail on the edge of town. The climb takes about an hour and gives you the whole valley and the snow-streaked peaks beyond.
1:30 PM: Lunch at a parrilla Order lamb or a lomo sandwich at a neighborhood grill away from the main strip. Portions are large, so share if you plan to walk more.
3:30 PM: Laguna La Zeta This quiet lagoon sits on the town's northern edge, an easy walk or short taxi ride from the center. Locals fish and bird-watch here, and few visitors ever stop. Spend an hour on the shore.
6:00 PM: Plaza San Martín Return for a drink at a craft-beer bar and watch the evening settle over the mountains. Finish with empanadas back at your hostel.

🌤️ When to go?When to go for the best experience

  • Summer (December to February): Warmest season, daytime highs around 22-25°C (72-77°F), long daylight hours, ideal for Los Alerces hikes. Also peak crowds and highest hostel prices.
  • Shoulder Season (March-April, October-November): Cooler days, 10-18°C (50-64°F), fewer tourists, and better hostel rates. Autumn colors in April are a quiet highlight.
  • Winter (June-August): Cold, often below 5°C (41°F), snow possible, some park trails close, but nearby La Hoya ski area draws a different crowd.
Aim for late November or March. You get near-summer trail conditions without the price spikes or the crowded refugios.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: highly recommended for travelingFEBFebruary: highly recommended for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: excellent for travelingMAYMay: excellent for travelingJUNJune: good for travelingJULJuly: good for travelingAUGAugust: good for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: excellent for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: highly recommended for traveling
when-to-go

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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas to stay in Argentina

Stick to Esquel's Centro, the compact downtown grid around Avenida Fontana and Roca. This is where nearly all hostels cluster, meaning you can walk to the bus terminal, the train station, and restaurants without needing transport. It's social by nature: shared hostel kitchens and common areas here fill up with hikers comparing notes on Los Alerces trails. Evenings are calm rather than rowdy, which suits early risers heading into the park. Avoid staying too far outside downtown; areas near the bus terminal are convenient for late arrivals but feel isolated at night, with thinner foot traffic and … read more 👉
Stick to Esquel's Centro, the compact downtown grid around Avenida Fontana and Roca. This is where nearly all hostels cluster, meaning you can walk to the bus terminal, the train station, and restaurants without needing transport. It's social by nature: shared hostel kitchens and common areas here fill up with hikers comparing notes on Los Alerces trails. Evenings are calm rather than rowdy, which suits early risers heading into the park. Avoid staying too far outside downtown; areas near the bus terminal are convenient for late arrivals but feel isolated at night, with thinner foot traffic and fewer dining options within easy walking distance.
Best hostels in Argentina


Best quality hotels in Argentina

🚌 Getting aroundMoving around without the hassle

Esquel doesn't hustle. Buses leave on posted schedules that locals treat as suggestions, and the town itself moves at the pace of wind gusts off the steppe, unhurried, a little raw, entirely walkable once you accept that nothing here is designed for speed.
  • Walking: The entire downtown core fits within a 15-minute walk end to end; you won't need transport for daily errands or reaching most hostels.
  • Long-distance buses: Companies like Via Bariloche and Andesmar run routes to Bariloche (about 4 hours) and Trevelin (30 minutes), with fares roughly USD 10-25 depending on distance; buy tickets a day ahead in high season.
  • Remises (local taxis): Useful for reaching trailheads or the ski area at La Hoya; a ride within town runs around USD 3-5, agree on price before departure since meters aren't always
… read more 👉
Esquel doesn't hustle. Buses leave on posted schedules that locals treat as suggestions, and the town itself moves at the pace of wind gusts off the steppe, unhurried, a little raw, entirely walkable once you accept that nothing here is designed for speed.
  • Walking: The entire downtown core fits within a 15-minute walk end to end; you won't need transport for daily errands or reaching most hostels.
  • Long-distance buses: Companies like Via Bariloche and Andesmar run routes to Bariloche (about 4 hours) and Trevelin (30 minutes), with fares roughly USD 10-25 depending on distance; buy tickets a day ahead in high season.
  • Remises (local taxis): Useful for reaching trailheads or the ski area at La Hoya; a ride within town runs around USD 3-5, agree on price before departure since meters aren't always used.
  • Park transport/tour vans: For Los Alerces, shared vans or organized transport depart early morning from town, typically USD 15-25 round trip; book the evening before as seats fill in summer.
  • Renting a car: Worth considering if you want flexibility for the national park's longer routes, though gravel roads and limited signage mean it rewards confident drivers only.

👛 Costs (as of 19 October 2026)What things cost and how to budget

Backpacking through Esquel is inexpensive by South American standards, with Patagonia's remoteness pushing certain costs (like transport and gear rental) slightly higher than in central Argentina.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm AccommodationUSD 10-18Basic hostels with shared kitchens; prices spike in January-February
MealsUSD 5-12Empanadas and set lunch menus are cheapest; parrilla dinners cost more
Local TransportUSD 3-10Walking covers downtown; remises needed for trailheads
Activities/Entry FeesUSD 10-25Los Alerces park entry plus optional boat excursion adds up quickly
MiscellaneousUSD 5-10SIM cards, snacks, laundry
Total Daily BudgetUSD 35-65Higher end if visiting the national park daily
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsEasy escapes and nearby places

Esquel works well as a day-trip base because the best sights sit within 1 to 3 hours of town by road, and tour agencies on the main streets run daily departures in season.
Los Alerces National Park:
The boat trip across Lago Menéndez to the Alerzal Milenario grove is the reason to come. Reaching the Puerto Chucao area takes about 1.5 hours by road, and buses and shared transfers run from Esquel in summer. Park entry is roughly US$20 to 25 for foreigners, and the boat adds about US$50 to 60. Go December to March. First-timers often arrive too late and miss the boat departures, so leave Esquel by 8 am.
👉 Explore Los Alerces National Park
La Trochita Old Patagonian Express:
The narrow-gauge steam train leaves from Esquel station and chugs to Nahuel Pan, a round trip of about 3 hours with a stop … read more 👉
Esquel works well as a day-trip base because the best sights sit within 1 to 3 hours of town by road, and tour agencies on the main streets run daily departures in season.
Los Alerces National Park:
The boat trip across Lago Menéndez to the Alerzal Milenario grove is the reason to come. Reaching the Puerto Chucao area takes about 1.5 hours by road, and buses and shared transfers run from Esquel in summer. Park entry is roughly US$20 to 25 for foreigners, and the boat adds about US$50 to 60. Go December to March. First-timers often arrive too late and miss the boat departures, so leave Esquel by 8 am.
👉 Explore Los Alerces National Park
La Trochita Old Patagonian Express:
The narrow-gauge steam train leaves from Esquel station and chugs to Nahuel Pan, a round trip of about 3 hours with a stop in the Mapuche village. Tickets run about US$20 to 30. It is touristy but fun, with a wood-stove locomotive and a small Mapuche craft stop. Summer runs most reliably, while winter service is limited, so check at the station the day before.

Trevelin:
This Welsh-settled town sits 25 minutes south by minibus, at about US$1 to 2 each way. Visit the old flour mill museum and have tea with cake at a Welsh tea house for US$10 to 15. Many people rush through in an hour, but a half day lets you walk to the nearby Nant y Fall waterfalls, with a small entry fee.
👉 Explore Trevelin
La Hoya:
This small ski area sits 15 km north of Esquel. Lifts run June to September, and day tickets cost roughly US$30 to 45. A taxi or shared shuttle costs about US$5 to 10 each way.

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

Esquel is broadly safe, and you can walk downtown alone at night without real concern. The main things to watch are practical rather than criminal: strong winds and sudden temperature drops catch hikers unprepared, so carry layers even on sunny mornings. Petty theft is rare but standard care applies on buses and at the terminal. There's little scam culture here; locals are more likely to help than hustle you. Solo travelers, including women, generally report feeling comfortable moving around town independently.
Check Country Safety

FAQFrequently asked questions about Esquel

Esquel is best treated as a base rather than a standalone destination; the town itself is modest, but its proximity to Los Alerces National Park and La Trochita steam train makes it genuinely worth building time around.
Most backpackers find two to four days sufficient: one day for Los Alerces, one for the steam train and town sights, and a spare day for weather or an extra hike.
It's possible as a rushed day trip from Trevelin (30 minutes away) or even Bariloche (about 4 hours by bus), but the distance to Los Alerces itself means you'd sacrifice most of the park experience without staying overnight in Esquel.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Argentine towns near Esquel

Explore more nearby:

  • Trevelin—Welsh tea, old flour mill, Los Alerces entrance| 23 km away
  • El Bolsón—Craft beer, Andean foothills, river swims| 107 km away
  • Villa La Angostura—Arrayán forest, Nahuel Huapi shore, lake beaches| 240 km away

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We 💚 feedbackParting advice and final tips

Esquel itself won't wow you, but it's the smartest base for Los Alerces without Bariloche's inflated prices. The drawback: the town has little charm of its own, so don't linger downtown expecting excitement. Use it as a launchpad, not a destination.

✈️ When did I visit Argentina?
I have visited Argentina, together with Chile, in September 2012.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Argentina, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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