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Argentina🇦🇷 | national parksLos Alerces National ParkLago Verde, alerce grove, Futalaufquen, Cerro Dedal | things to do and best time to go

Explore Parque Provincial Ernesto TornquistExplore Los Glaciares National Park

Backpacking in Los Alerces
UNESCO World Heritage site
🌟 Highlightnational park ranked #8
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

The first time the trail dropped me at the edge of Lago Verde, I stopped mid-step. The water sat that impossible turquoise you assume is a filter trick until you're standing in it, cold enough to sting my fingers when I dipped them in to check. Los Alerces sits in Chubut province, in Argentine Patagonia, west of Esquel near the Chilean border. For backpackers, it delivers genuinely varied hiking, lake scenery that outclasses postcards, and a real shot at solitude on weekday trails, but it demands homework: there's an entrance fee of about US$23 a day for foreigners, bought online, buses into the park are sparse, and popular boat excursions get booked out by tour groups fast. Camping is cheap and plentiful, which keeps costs low compared to Nahuel Huapi's pricier Bariloche sprawl. The vibe is quieter, rawer, less commercialized.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #8 national park in ArgentinaReasons people choose to explore here

Backpackers gravitate here because the park rewards independent exploration without forcing you into guided packages. You can string together day hikes and multi-day routes using a single well-marked trail network, and self-guided travelers genuinely thrive here since signage is decent and rangers are approachable for route advice. Budget camping options sit right along the lakeshores, and nearby Esquel or Trevelin offer cheap hostels if you want a bed and a shower between treks. The trail variety covers everything from flat lakeside strolls to full-day ascents, so you can match effort to energy level. Add in low crowds outside peak summer weeks, and you get a park that feels earned rather than packaged, which is exactly what draws people who'd rather figure things out themselves than follow a flag-waving guide.

💡 HighlightsPlaces and moments you shouldn't skip

  1. Lago Verde: A small lake with vivid turquoise-green water fed by glacial runoff, easily reached by a short walk from the road, making it one of the most photographed spots without requiring a full day's hike.
  2. Lago Futalaufquen: The largest lake in the park, ringed by forest and mountains, with calm bays good for swimming in summer and a visitor center nearby for trail maps.
  3. El Alerzal (the Alerce Grove): Accessible mainly by boat excursion, home to some alerce trees estimated at over 1,000 years old, among the oldest living things in South America.
  4. Puerto Limonao: A quiet dock area good for launching short walks or picnicking beside the water, with fewer visitors than the main lake access points.
  5. Cerro Dedal: A steeper day hike offering panoramic views over the lakes and surrounding peaks, a solid
… read more 👉
  1. Lago Verde: A small lake with vivid turquoise-green water fed by glacial runoff, easily reached by a short walk from the road, making it one of the most photographed spots without requiring a full day's hike.
  2. Lago Futalaufquen: The largest lake in the park, ringed by forest and mountains, with calm bays good for swimming in summer and a visitor center nearby for trail maps.
  3. El Alerzal (the Alerce Grove): Accessible mainly by boat excursion, home to some alerce trees estimated at over 1,000 years old, among the oldest living things in South America.
  4. Puerto Limonao: A quiet dock area good for launching short walks or picnicking beside the water, with fewer visitors than the main lake access points.
  5. Cerro Dedal: A steeper day hike offering panoramic views over the lakes and surrounding peaks, a solid choice for backpackers wanting elevation without a multi-day commitment.
  6. Lago Rivadavia: A less-visited lake on the park's northern side, good for those wanting distance from the day-trip crowds around Futalaufquen.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

🌤️ When to go?Choosing the right time of year

  • Summer (December to February): Warmest stretch, daytime highs around 20-25°C (68-77°F), long daylight hours, but also peak crowds and highest campsite prices.
  • Shoulder season (March, November): Cooler days near 12-18°C (54-64°F), thinner crowds, autumn color in March along the alerce groves, and better campsite availability.
  • Winter (June to August): Cold, often below 5°C (41°F), some trail and road access limited by snow, minimal tourist infrastructure open.
  • Spring (September to November): Unpredictable weather, rivers running high from snowmelt, fewer visitors, lodging cheaper.
The first half of March is the sweet spot. The crowds thin out, prices drop from peak summer, and the light on the lakes gets sharper in the cooler air.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: fair for travelingJUNJune: below average for travelingJULJuly: below average for travelingAUGAugust: below average for travelingSEPSeptember: fair for travelingOCTOctober: good for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling
argentina-national-park-los-alerces-national-park
© Google | Robert Quinn

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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas and accommodation options

Camping inside the park is the standout option for backpackers, with several campgrounds along Lago Futalaufquen and Lago Rivadavia offering basic facilities and direct lake access at low nightly rates. Some sites have small stores for basic supplies, but stock up in town first to avoid paying inflated prices. Outside the park, Esquel serves as the main hub with a solid range of hostels, cheap eats, and bus connections to Bariloche and beyond. Trevelin, a smaller Welsh-founded town closer to the park's southern entrance, offers a quieter alternative with a few budget guesthouses and a slower pace. … read more 👉
Camping inside the park is the standout option for backpackers, with several campgrounds along Lago Futalaufquen and Lago Rivadavia offering basic facilities and direct lake access at low nightly rates. Some sites have small stores for basic supplies, but stock up in town first to avoid paying inflated prices. Outside the park, Esquel serves as the main hub with a solid range of hostels, cheap eats, and bus connections to Bariloche and beyond. Trevelin, a smaller Welsh-founded town closer to the park's southern entrance, offers a quieter alternative with a few budget guesthouses and a slower pace. Villa Futalaufquen, right at the park entrance, has limited lodging but puts you closest to the trailheads if you don't mind fewer amenities. For most backpackers, splitting nights between park camping and an Esquel hostel strikes the best balance of cost, comfort, and trail access.
Best hostels in Argentina


Best quality hotels in Argentina

👛 Costs (as of 19 October 2026)Typical daily expenses

Los Alerces National Park costs a backpacker roughly US$55 to 85 a day in high season (January and February), with camping and self-catering keeping the total down. Prices are in Argentine pesos, and inflation moves them often, so treat these as ranges.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Entrance feeUS$10 to 20 per day or entryForeign adults pay a higher rate than Argentine residents. The ticket is paid at the gates and covers multiple days at a time.
CampingUS$8 to 20 per personOrganized sites at Lago Verde, Lago Futalaufquen and Lago Rivadavia have showers and shops nearby. Free wild camping is not allowed.
Hostel or cabin (high season)US$20 to 35 per bedDorms are found in Esquel and Trevelin. Cabins inside the park cost far more.
Local transportUS$5 to 15Buses from Esquel run to Villa Futalaufquen.
… read more 👉
Los Alerces National Park costs a backpacker roughly US$55 to 85 a day in high season (January and February), with camping and self-catering keeping the total down. Prices are in Argentine pesos, and inflation moves them often, so treat these as ranges.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Entrance feeUS$10 to 20 per day or entryForeign adults pay a higher rate than Argentine residents. The ticket is paid at the gates and covers multiple days at a time.
CampingUS$8 to 20 per personOrganized sites at Lago Verde, Lago Futalaufquen and Lago Rivadavia have showers and shops nearby. Free wild camping is not allowed.
Hostel or cabin (high season)US$20 to 35 per bedDorms are found in Esquel and Trevelin. Cabins inside the park cost far more.
Local transportUS$5 to 15Buses from Esquel run to Villa Futalaufquen. Shared transfers and taxis cost more and need booking in summer.
Food and suppliesUS$12 to 25Stock up in Esquel supermarkets, since prices in the park are higher. A simple restaurant meal runs US$8 to 15.
Boat trip to Alerce MilenarioUS$40 to 60 (optional)The Lago Menéndez crossing and walk to the 2,600-year-old alerce is the priciest activity. Hikers can skip it.
Total Daily BudgetUS$55 to 85Camping, self-catered meals, entry fee and one bus ride, without the boat trip.


source: argentina.gob.ar
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🥾 TrailsPlan your hike in Los Alerces: routes, terrain, and sights

Hiking here ranges from flat lakeside ambles to steeper climbs through dense Valdivian forest, mixing lenga, coihue, and native alerce stands. Terrain underfoot varies between packed dirt, root systems, and rocky sections near higher viewpoints, so ankle support matters more than technical gear. Wildlife sightings lean toward birds (Magellanic woodpeckers, torrent ducks along rivers) rather than large mammals, though huemul deer occasionally show up in quieter zones.
  • Trail: Cerro Dedal: 6-7 hours round trip, moderate to hard due to elevation gain, rewarded with panoramic lake views.
  • Trail: Puerto
… read more 👉
Hiking here ranges from flat lakeside ambles to steeper climbs through dense Valdivian forest, mixing lenga, coihue, and native alerce stands. Terrain underfoot varies between packed dirt, root systems, and rocky sections near higher viewpoints, so ankle support matters more than technical gear. Wildlife sightings lean toward birds (Magellanic woodpeckers, torrent ducks along rivers) rather than large mammals, though huemul deer occasionally show up in quieter zones.
  • Trail: Cerro Dedal: 6-7 hours round trip, moderate to hard due to elevation gain, rewarded with panoramic lake views.
  • Trail: Puerto Limonao short walks: under 3km, 1-2 hours, easy, flat lakeside terrain suited to warm-up days.
Public transport reaches Esquel reliably by long-distance bus from Bariloche or Puerto Madryn, but getting from Esquel into the park itself relies on limited seasonal shuttle services or hitchhiking, since regular bus frequency into the park drops sharply outside peak summer. Entrance fees apply; buy the pass online before you go. Crowds concentrate around Futalaufquen and the boat-excursion docks in January; the rest of the park, especially trails away from the main road, stays notably empty even in high season.
⚠️ Hiking info can sometimes be outdated or inaccurate. Before you hit the trail, check the latest conditions with locals. If you do spot anything that's off, I'd love to hear from you, so I can update it for fellow travelers.

🛡️ SafetySafety Tips and Common Scams in Los Alerces

Weather shifts fast here, so pack a real rain layer even on clear mornings; Patagonian wind picks up without warning and drops the felt temperature quickly. Trails are generally well-marked and maintained, but river crossings on some routes swell with snowmelt in spring, so check conditions with rangers before committing to longer hikes. Wildlife poses little real risk; keep food sealed at campsites to avoid attracting foxes rather than anything more serious. First-time visitors most often get caught out by underestimating hike duration or starting too late in the day, so start early, pace yourself on the steeper climbs, and always tell someone your planned route.
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FAQTraveler FAQ

Three to four full days lets you cover the main lakes, at least one longer hike like Cerro Dedal, and the boat excursion to the alerce grove without rushing. Two days works if you're only after the highlights near Lago Futalaufquen and Lago Verde.
Yes, though it takes more planning than driving in. Long-distance buses reach Esquel or Trevelin reliably, but onward transport into the park itself relies on limited seasonal shuttles, so many backpackers hitchhike or arrange lifts with campers heading in.
Yes, there's a daily entrance fee, about USD 23 a day for foreigners, bought online before your visit. No special permit is required beyond paying this fee, though boat excursions to the alerce grove are booked and paid separately.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Argentine national parks near Los Alerces

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We 💚 feedbackKey takeaways before you go

Los Alerces earns its reputation through those ancient alerce trees and lake water so clear it looks staged. The drawback? Getting around without a car takes patience and flexible planning, since buses into the park run thin outside summer. Worth it if you're not in a rush.

✈️ When did I visit Argentina?
I have visited Argentina, together with Chile, in September 2012.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Argentina, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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