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Botswana🇧🇼 | national parksMakgadikgadi Pans National ParkBoteti River, zebra herds, Ntwetwe edge, ilala palms | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Makgadikgadi Pans
🌟 Highlightnational park ranked #4
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

The practical advantage here is that the park sits beside a tarred road, so a rented 4x4 gets you to the western edge without a guide. Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is in the north-central part of Botswana, south of the Nata road and west of the Boteti River. On the ground it is a flat, pale horizon of grassland, ancient lakebed and scattered palms, and the tracks are sandy and soft. Hiking is limited, since walking inside the park is not the norm, so you explore by vehicle and by drives to the pan edge, where the silence and the empty white distance are the point. Zebra come to the Boteti River in the dry season, and the sight of them lined up along the water is worth the dust. Crowds are thin, but facilities are basic and the heat is hard on the unprepared. Unlike nearby Nxai Pan National Park, which centers on one grassy pan with reliable game, this park is bigger, rougher and quieter.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #4 national park in BotswanaWhat makes this national park worth exploring

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park suits backpackers who like to drive themselves and set their own pace. The park has no fixed itinerary and no crowd of minibuses, so you choose where to stop and how long to sit with the view. The star event is the dry-season gathering at the Boteti River, where zebra, wildebeest and elephants come to drink, and the water draws them close enough for patient photography from a parked vehicle. The second reason is the landscape itself. The Ntwetwe and Sua Pans beyond the park are huge salt flats, and the park gives you a quiet way to see their edge without paying for a guided package. Camping is basic and wild, which keeps costs down and puts you under a very dark sky. If you want a tour with a guide who explains everything, this is the wrong place. If you can … read more 👉
Makgadikgadi Pans National Park suits backpackers who like to drive themselves and set their own pace. The park has no fixed itinerary and no crowd of minibuses, so you choose where to stop and how long to sit with the view. The star event is the dry-season gathering at the Boteti River, where zebra, wildebeest and elephants come to drink, and the water draws them close enough for patient photography from a parked vehicle. The second reason is the landscape itself. The Ntwetwe and Sua Pans beyond the park are huge salt flats, and the park gives you a quiet way to see their edge without paying for a guided package. Camping is basic and wild, which keeps costs down and puts you under a very dark sky. If you want a tour with a guide who explains everything, this is the wrong place. If you can read a map, carry spare water and fix a tire, it is a fine one.

💡 HighlightsPlaces and moments you shouldn't skip

  1. Boteti River frontage: The park’s best-known sight. In the dry months zebra, wildebeest, springbok and elephants crowd the river, and the riverbank loop is the easiest place to watch them.
  2. Zebra migration: Herds move between the Boteti and the grasslands after rain, and the dry-season stretch near the river is the more dependable viewing.
  3. Edge of the Ntwetwe Pan: A bright, flat expanse of dried lakebed where the horizon disappears and the silence is complete.
  4. Baobab and palm islands: Scattered ilala palms and old trees break the flat grassland and give shade for a lunch stop.
  5. Predators of the grassland: Lion, cheetah and brown hyena live here, and signs of them turn up as tracks in the sand more often than sightings.
  6. Birdlife along the river: Pelicans, kingfishers and raptors appear when there
… read more 👉
  1. Boteti River frontage: The park’s best-known sight. In the dry months zebra, wildebeest, springbok and elephants crowd the river, and the riverbank loop is the easiest place to watch them.
  2. Zebra migration: Herds move between the Boteti and the grasslands after rain, and the dry-season stretch near the river is the more dependable viewing.
  3. Edge of the Ntwetwe Pan: A bright, flat expanse of dried lakebed where the horizon disappears and the silence is complete.
  4. Baobab and palm islands: Scattered ilala palms and old trees break the flat grassland and give shade for a lunch stop.
  5. Predators of the grassland: Lion, cheetah and brown hyena live here, and signs of them turn up as tracks in the sand more often than sightings.
  6. Birdlife along the river: Pelicans, kingfishers and raptors appear when there is water, and they reward a quiet morning at the bank.
  7. Night sky from camp: Away from any town, the Milky Way is clear and bright, and a camp on the open ground is enough to see it.
Makgadikgadi Pans National Park lets you enjoy the night sky and the pan edge at no extra cost beyond your entry and camp fee.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do around Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

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🌤️ When to go?Best time to explore Makgadikgadi Pans

  • Green Season (Nov to Mar): Zebra herds arrive from the Boteti River as the pans fill with rain, and flamingos can gather by the thousands when water is deep enough. Days run 30-38°C (86-100°F), with afternoon thunderstorms and daylight of roughly 13 to 14 hours. Sand tracks turn to mud, so access shrinks. Lodges and tours drop prices by 20 to 40 percent.
  • Cool Dry Season (May to Aug): Dry, firm tracks make quad biking and sleeping out on the open pan easy. Days reach 22-28°C (72-82°F), but nights fall to 0-6°C (32-43°F) on the exposed salt. Daylight is about 11 hours. Crowds and rates peak, especially July and August.
  • Hot Dry Season (Sep to Oct): Days hit 35-40°C (95-104°F), the landscape is bleached and shimmering, and game concentrates along the Boteti. Rates ease slightly, and crowds thin.
… read more 👉
  • Green Season (Nov to Mar): Zebra herds arrive from the Boteti River as the pans fill with rain, and flamingos can gather by the thousands when water is deep enough. Days run 30-38°C (86-100°F), with afternoon thunderstorms and daylight of roughly 13 to 14 hours. Sand tracks turn to mud, so access shrinks. Lodges and tours drop prices by 20 to 40 percent.
  • Cool Dry Season (May to Aug): Dry, firm tracks make quad biking and sleeping out on the open pan easy. Days reach 22-28°C (72-82°F), but nights fall to 0-6°C (32-43°F) on the exposed salt. Daylight is about 11 hours. Crowds and rates peak, especially July and August.
  • Hot Dry Season (Sep to Oct): Days hit 35-40°C (95-104°F), the landscape is bleached and shimmering, and game concentrates along the Boteti. Rates ease slightly, and crowds thin.
Book pan camping for June or July at least a few weeks ahead, or go in April for dry tracks and lower prices.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: good for travelingMAYMay: excellent for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: highly recommended for travelingAUGAugust: highly recommended for travelingSEPSeptember: highly recommended for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?How to pick the right area

The most practical base for backpackers is Maun, with Gweta and Planet Baobab as the closest bases to the pans. Inside the park, the main option is camping along the Boteti River at Khumaga (public campsites, shared ablutions, no fences, so hippos and elephants walk through at night). Bring your own food, water and a 4x4, as the sandy tracks need one. Makgadikgadi Pans National Park has very few permanent lodgings inside, and the better-known lodges sit in the surrounding reserve area.
Outside the park, Gweta is a small village on the Maun to Nata road and has the best budget range. Planet Baobab … read more 👉
The most practical base for backpackers is Maun, with Gweta and Planet Baobab as the closest bases to the pans. Inside the park, the main option is camping along the Boteti River at Khumaga (public campsites, shared ablutions, no fences, so hippos and elephants walk through at night). Bring your own food, water and a 4x4, as the sandy tracks need one. Makgadikgadi Pans National Park has very few permanent lodgings inside, and the better-known lodges sit in the surrounding reserve area.
Outside the park, Gweta is a small village on the Maun to Nata road and has the best budget range. Planet Baobab offers camping under baobabs and cheap thatched huts, from about US$10 to 25 per person, and it runs quad bike and overnight pan trips. Gweta Lodge is similar and also has a bar and restaurant. Nata, further east, has Nata Lodge with campsites and rooms around US$15 to 70. Maun has several backpacker hostels with dorms and camping from US$10 to 20 and is where you can find tour operators and resupply at supermarkets before heading out. Rooms in Gweta and Maun fill up in July and August.
Best hostels in Botswana


Best quality hotels in Botswana

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)How expensive it really is

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park costs roughly US$85 to 125 per person per day for a self-drive backpacker, mostly from fuel, vehicle hire and fees. Prices below are for high season and paid in pula.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Park entrance (non-resident)US$15 to 20Per person per day, plus a small vehicle fee, paid at the gate or via the Department of Wildlife.
Camping inside parkUS$30 to 50Public campsites at Khumaga cost more for foreigners. Bookings are needed in July and August.
Budget stays outsideUS$10 to 25Camping or basic huts in Gweta, Nata and Maun in high season.
Local transportUS$20 to 40Shared costs of 4x4 hire and fuel. Combis run Maun to Gweta, about US$8 to 12, but cannot enter the park.
Food and suppliesUS$10 to 20Self-catering from Maun supermarkets. Meals in Gweta cost US$6
… read more 👉
Makgadikgadi Pans National Park costs roughly US$85 to 125 per person per day for a self-drive backpacker, mostly from fuel, vehicle hire and fees. Prices below are for high season and paid in pula.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Park entrance (non-resident)US$15 to 20Per person per day, plus a small vehicle fee, paid at the gate or via the Department of Wildlife.
Camping inside parkUS$30 to 50Public campsites at Khumaga cost more for foreigners. Bookings are needed in July and August.
Budget stays outsideUS$10 to 25Camping or basic huts in Gweta, Nata and Maun in high season.
Local transportUS$20 to 40Shared costs of 4x4 hire and fuel. Combis run Maun to Gweta, about US$8 to 12, but cannot enter the park.
Food and suppliesUS$10 to 20Self-catering from Maun supermarkets. Meals in Gweta cost US$6 to 12.
Total Daily BudgetUS$85 to 125Self-drive travelers sharing a vehicle with camping.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🥾 TrailsScenic routes and wildlife spotting in Makgadikgadi Pans

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is not a hiking park in the usual sense, because walking away from the vehicle is discouraged where lions and elephants roam, so the “trails” are sandy tracks you drive and then explore on foot only near camp or in permitted spots. There are no formally named, measured trails.
  • River loop: Starting from the western gate, the track follows the Boteti River for a few hours of slow driving. Terrain is soft sand and packed earth, difficulty is moderate for drivers, and you pass zebra, wildebeest and riverside birds.
  • Pan edge track: A longer drive leads toward the salt
… read more 👉
Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is not a hiking park in the usual sense, because walking away from the vehicle is discouraged where lions and elephants roam, so the “trails” are sandy tracks you drive and then explore on foot only near camp or in permitted spots. There are no formally named, measured trails.
  • River loop: Starting from the western gate, the track follows the Boteti River for a few hours of slow driving. Terrain is soft sand and packed earth, difficulty is moderate for drivers, and you pass zebra, wildebeest and riverside birds.
  • Pan edge track: A longer drive leads toward the salt flats. It is flat, bright and exposed, with little shade, and the reward is the huge empty horizon.
  • Camp walks: Short strolls near your campsite are fine in daylight, with sandy ground and sparse trees, taking about thirty minutes.
Wildlife includes zebra, wildebeest, elephant, springbok, jackal and the occasional lion. Dry months bring the densest game along the river, while wet months scatter animals and make tracks muddy.
Getting here without your own vehicle is hard. Public buses run on the main road, but the park gate is some distance off the tarmac, so most travelers drive a 4x4 from Maun or join a tour. Crowds are light almost all year. An entry fee applies and is paid in local currency, with a separate camping charge, and a fuel and water reserve is essential.
⚠️ Hiking info can sometimes be outdated or inaccurate. Before you hit the trail, check the latest conditions with locals. If you do spot anything that's off, I'd love to hear from you, so I can update it for fellow travelers.

🛡️ SafetySafety Tips and Common Scams in Makgadikgadi Pans

The park is straightforward if you plan for sun, sand and wildlife, since the Boteti side has no fences. Heat is the main hazard from September to November, when midday temperatures pass 38°C (100°F) with almost no shade. Carry at least 5 liters of water per person per day and move in the early hours. On the open pans, navigation is hard, as the horizon has no landmarks and GPS tracks can mislead. Never drive onto the pan after rain, because the crust gives way and vehicles bog down for hours. Cell coverage is patchy, so travel in two vehicles or carry a satellite communicator. Nights on the salt are cold in winter, so bring a proper sleeping bag. Elephants, hippos and lions use the Boteti riverbank. Camp away from game paths, keep food in the vehicle, stay inside your tent after dark and … read more 👉
The park is straightforward if you plan for sun, sand and wildlife, since the Boteti side has no fences. Heat is the main hazard from September to November, when midday temperatures pass 38°C (100°F) with almost no shade. Carry at least 5 liters of water per person per day and move in the early hours. On the open pans, navigation is hard, as the horizon has no landmarks and GPS tracks can mislead. Never drive onto the pan after rain, because the crust gives way and vehicles bog down for hours. Cell coverage is patchy, so travel in two vehicles or carry a satellite communicator. Nights on the salt are cold in winter, so bring a proper sleeping bag. Elephants, hippos and lions use the Boteti riverbank. Camp away from game paths, keep food in the vehicle, stay inside your tent after dark and never walk to the river at night. Hyenas and jackals visit camps, so keep shoes zipped inside.
Check Country Safety

FAQFrequently asked questions about Makgadikgadi Pans

Two to three days is enough for Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. One day covers game drives along the Boteti River at Khumaga, and a second adds a night on the open salt pans, usually arranged from Gweta or Planet Baobab. Add a third day if you want to include quad biking or meerkat viewing nearby.
Makgadikgadi Pans National Park is hard to visit without a car. Combis run from Maun to Gweta in around 3 hours for about US$8 to 12, but they do not enter the park, and the Boteti tracks are deep sand needing a 4x4. Most backpackers book a tour from Maun, Gweta or Planet Baobab, which costs roughly US$100 to 250 per person for pan trips.
Yes, Makgadikgadi Pans National Park charges entry fees, but no separate permit is required. Non-resident visitors pay roughly US$15 to 20 per person per day, plus a small fee for a vehicle, at the gate or through the Department of Wildlife and National Parks. Campsites at Khumaga also need to be booked in advance, especially in July and August, with fees of about US$30 to 50 per person.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Botswanan national parks near Makgadikgadi Pans

Explore more nearby:

  • Nxai Pan National Park—Baines' Baobabs, Kudiakam Pan, green-season zebra, waterhole elephants| 39 km away
  • Okavango Delta—Mokoro channels, island walks, Chief's Island, scenic flights| 214 km away
  • Moremi Game Reserve—Xakanaxa Lagoon, Third Bridge, mopane tracks, Khwai edge| 214 km away

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We 💚 feedbackFinal thoughts on exploring Makgadikgadi Pans

Combine Makgadikgadi Pans National Park with Nxai Pan and a night on the salt flats for a route that moves from river to grassland to white emptiness in a few days. I would bring extra water, a spare tire and a good paper map. Go in the dry months and do not rush the river.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on in-depth research, insights shared by experienced travelers, and feedback from the local travel community in Botswana. While every effort is made to keep the information accurate and current, conditions can change — so if you spot anything incorrect or outdated, please get in touch.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

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