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Brazil🇧🇷 | townsIlhabelaIsland ferry, rainforest waterfalls, Castelhanos, channel beaches | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Ilhabela
🌟 Highlighttown ranked #7
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

The ferry ramp clanks down at São Sebastião’s channel, and the first thing you get is diesel, salt and fried pastry from the dockside stand, then the road curls into green mountain. Ilhabela sits off the coast of São Paulo state in southeastern Brazil, and the island rewards you with over 40 beaches and waterfalls inside Atlantic rainforest. The town itself is small: the historic center is a few streets of low colonial buildings, worth an hour and no more. The real draw is the trails and coves. Nights are mellow, with hostels, a handful of bars and easy chats with other hikers, but buses are slow and the beach strip is pricey. Unlike busy Paraty, which is a cobblestone town you wander, Ilhabela is a place you hike and sail.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #7 town in BrazilWhat makes it a must-see town

Ilhabela works for backpackers who want rainforest and sea in the same day without leaving a tidy island. The reason is the trail network: the hike to Cachoeira da Toca ends at a series of cold natural pools, and the longer walk to Praia de Castelhanos reaches a wide open surf beach on the wild Atlantic side. Add the Parque Estadual de Ilhabela and you can fill several days without repeating yourself. Most travelers stay two to four nights, and hikers, divers and solo travelers who like small guesthouses and shared hostel tables get the most from it. Evenings are quiet and social rather than rowdy, so you will meet people on the trails and at breakfast rather than in clubs. Anyone who wants constant nightlife or big-city sights will be bored within a day. Slow travelers who like a hammock after a waterfall will want longer.

💡 HighlightsMust-see experiences and standout moments

  1. Vila (Historic Center): The island’s colonial core, with the white Nossa Senhora D’Ajuda church (1700s) facing the waterfront. Go in the late afternoon when it is cooler and the craft stalls open. Free, about 1 to 2 hours.
  2. Cachoeira da Toca: A forest trail of roughly 1 hour leads to a stack of waterfalls and swimmable pools. Visit in the morning before groups arrive. Entry is about US$3 to 5 (paid at the private trail entrance), allow 3 to 4 hours.
  3. Praia de Castelhanos: A long beach on the island’s eastern side with surf and almost no development. Come on a weekday for emptiness. Free to enter, a full day is best, and the unpaved road needs a 4x4 or a guided trip.
  4. Parque Estadual de Ilhabela: Protected Atlantic rainforest covering most of the island, with marked trails, waterfalls and the Pico
… read more 👉
  1. Vila (Historic Center): The island’s colonial core, with the white Nossa Senhora D’Ajuda church (1700s) facing the waterfront. Go in the late afternoon when it is cooler and the craft stalls open. Free, about 1 to 2 hours.
  2. Cachoeira da Toca: A forest trail of roughly 1 hour leads to a stack of waterfalls and swimmable pools. Visit in the morning before groups arrive. Entry is about US$3 to 5 (paid at the private trail entrance), allow 3 to 4 hours.
  3. Praia de Castelhanos: A long beach on the island’s eastern side with surf and almost no development. Come on a weekday for emptiness. Free to enter, a full day is best, and the unpaved road needs a 4x4 or a guided trip.
  4. Parque Estadual de Ilhabela: Protected Atlantic rainforest covering most of the island, with marked trails, waterfalls and the Pico do Baepi route. Best in dry months for firm footing. Some trails are free, guided hikes about US$25 to 60, 2 to 8 hours.
  5. Praia do Curral and Praia da Feiticeira: Two calm, accessible beaches on the channel side, good for snorkeling and a long lunch of grilled fish. Go early to get a spot. Free, 2 to 3 hours.
Day trips from the island can take you to the beaches and old center of São Sebastião, the surf beaches of Maresias, and the colonial streets of Ubatuba.

Do Cachoeira da Toca first, since the morning light and quiet pools are best before the tour groups arrive.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near Ilhabela

Boat tour experience with snorkel mask included - BY NETUNO TOURS

Boat tour experience with snorkel mask included - BY NETUNO TOURS

4.9(1445) 5h
From €21
per personViator
Private Boat Tour

Private Boat Tour

5.0(470)
From €136
per personViator
Private 4x4 Jeep: Waterfalls and Distillery (6h) by Jango Paraty

Private 4x4 Jeep: Waterfalls and Distillery (6h) by Jango Paraty

5.0(288)
From €269
per personViator
Jeep Tour in Paraty: Waterfalls and Cachaça Experience

Jeep Tour in Paraty: Waterfalls and Cachaça Experience

4.9(309)
From €25
per personViator
Mangrove, Beaches and Islands by Kayak tour

Mangrove, Beaches and Islands by Kayak tour

5.0(257) 4h
From €50
per personViator
Exclusive Horseback Riding Experience in the mountains

Exclusive Horseback Riding Experience in the mountains

5.0(145) 4h
From €104
per personViator
Trip to the beaches of Trinidad - Nature & Sea BY PARATY TOURS

Trip to the beaches of Trinidad - Nature & Sea BY PARATY TOURS

4.9(114)
From €34
per personViator
Small Group Hike to Saco Bravo Waterfall

Small Group Hike to Saco Bravo Waterfall

5.0(88) 10h
From €116
per personViator
4-Day Juatinga Crossing Tour

4-Day Juatinga Crossing Tour

5.0(82) 96h
From €723
per personViator
Private Bike Tour in Paraty

Private Bike Tour in Paraty

5.0(50) 5h
From €80
per personViator

Ratings based on Tripadvisor reviews. When you book through this link, you support our work at no extra cost to you.

🏘️ NeighborhoodsNeighborhood guide to Ilhabela

Ilhabela’s main settlement hugs a thin strip of the west coast facing São Sebastião, and the rest of the island is reached by one coastal road. Pick your areas by what you want from the day.
  • Vila (Centro Histórico): The compact old center, flat and fully walkable, with a small colonial church (Nossa Senhora D’Ajuda), craft stalls and the island’s best concentration of restaurants and bars after dark. Skip the souvenir shops, eat the fresh grilled fish or a prato feito on a side street, and you leave fed well for little money.
  • Perequê: The north end of the strip, with the ferry landing, supermarkets and the cheapest everyday food. It has no sights worth a special walk, so use it for stocking up on snacks and sunscreen before hiking.
  • Barra Velha and Feiticeira: South of the center, a quiet run
… read more 👉
Ilhabela’s main settlement hugs a thin strip of the west coast facing São Sebastião, and the rest of the island is reached by one coastal road. Pick your areas by what you want from the day.
  • Vila (Centro Histórico): The compact old center, flat and fully walkable, with a small colonial church (Nossa Senhora D’Ajuda), craft stalls and the island’s best concentration of restaurants and bars after dark. Skip the souvenir shops, eat the fresh grilled fish or a prato feito on a side street, and you leave fed well for little money.
  • Perequê: The north end of the strip, with the ferry landing, supermarkets and the cheapest everyday food. It has no sights worth a special walk, so use it for stocking up on snacks and sunscreen before hiking.
  • Barra Velha and Feiticeira: South of the center, a quiet run of beaches and low-key guesthouses. Walkable only in short stretches, so you need a bus. You get calm water and an early swim without the crowds.
  • Praia do Curral and Praia Grande: Popular beaches a bus ride from the Vila, with kiosks selling caipirinhas and fried shrimp. Weekends are packed and loud, so go on weekdays for room to spread out.
  • Bonete and Castelhanos: Remote beaches reached by trail or 4x4, with no nightlife at all. The Bonete walk takes hours but ends at a wide empty beach, which is the best payoff on the island.

⌛️ 1 dayA smart one-day plan

8:00 AM, Perequê Bakery Breakfast: Start on the channel side near the ferry landing, where early bakeries sell coffee and pão de queijo, so you can eat before the trail and avoid hungry hiking. Then take a local bus or taxi south.

9:30 AM, Cachoeira da Toca: Hike the forest path to the waterfalls and swim in the upper pools while few people are there. Allow three hours with the walk back.

1:00 PM, Praia do Curral: Ride back toward town and eat grilled fish at a beach kiosk, then float in the calm water. It is an easy place to rest your legs.

3:30 PM, Fazenda Engenho d’Água: Visit the old sugar plantation ruins, a quieter heritage site away from the main strip. The remains of the mill and house show how the island’s colonial economy worked, and there are few other visitors.

5:30 PM, Vila … read more 👉
8:00 AM, Perequê Bakery Breakfast: Start on the channel side near the ferry landing, where early bakeries sell coffee and pão de queijo, so you can eat before the trail and avoid hungry hiking. Then take a local bus or taxi south.

9:30 AM, Cachoeira da Toca: Hike the forest path to the waterfalls and swim in the upper pools while few people are there. Allow three hours with the walk back.

1:00 PM, Praia do Curral: Ride back toward town and eat grilled fish at a beach kiosk, then float in the calm water. It is an easy place to rest your legs.

3:30 PM, Fazenda Engenho d’Água: Visit the old sugar plantation ruins, a quieter heritage site away from the main strip. The remains of the mill and house show how the island’s colonial economy worked, and there are few other visitors.

5:30 PM, Vila Historic Center: Walk the waterfront and step into the small whitewashed Nossa Senhora D’Ajuda church. Craft stalls open as the heat eases and you can browse without rush.

7:30 PM, Dinner on the Vila Streets: Choose a small restaurant for fresh shrimp or the local fish stew, then end with a drink at a hostel bar to meet other travelers.

🌤️ When to go?Choosing the right time of year

The best months for Ilhabela are April to October, when rain eases and the hiking trails and waterfalls are manageable.
  • Summer (December to March): Hot and humid at 24 to 31°C (75 to 88°F), with heavy afternoon downpours, long daylight and packed beaches. Prices jump, especially around Christmas, New Year and Carnival, and borrachudo biting flies are worst.
  • Autumn (April to June): Highs of 22 to 27°C (72 to 81°F), fewer crowds and clearer days. Good for trekking and diving.
  • Winter (July to September): Cooler at 15 to 24°C (59 to 75°F), with calm days and the lowest prices outside school holidays. Sea swimming is chilly but fine.
  • Sailing Week (July): Semana Internacional de Vela fills the island with sailors, so book early.
Aim for a weekday in May or September for the best mix of weather, space and prices.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: good for travelingFEBFebruary: good for travelingMARMarch: good for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: highly recommended for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: good for travelingDECDecember: good for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas to stay in Brazil

The Vila and the stretch just south of it are the best bases for a budget stay on Ilhabela, with most of the hostels and basic pousadas within a short walk of the waterfront. Beds in the Vila are easy to find outside school holidays, though they fill quickly and rates double around New Year and Carnival. A dorm bed typically costs US$18 to 35 and a simple private room US$50 to 90.
The center is the safest option after dark because the streets stay lit and busy, and the restaurants and bars are steps away. Evenings on weekends get noisy, so ask for a back room if you sleep lightly. Buses to the … read more 👉
The Vila and the stretch just south of it are the best bases for a budget stay on Ilhabela, with most of the hostels and basic pousadas within a short walk of the waterfront. Beds in the Vila are easy to find outside school holidays, though they fill quickly and rates double around New Year and Carnival. A dorm bed typically costs US$18 to 35 and a simple private room US$50 to 90.
The center is the safest option after dark because the streets stay lit and busy, and the restaurants and bars are steps away. Evenings on weekends get noisy, so ask for a back room if you sleep lightly. Buses to the southern beaches and the Perequê ferry both pass through, so you rarely need a taxi.
Perequê, near the ferry landing, is the cheaper alternative, with fewer places to sleep and a quiet, local feel. It makes sense if you arrive on a late boat or need supermarkets, but you must take a short ride to reach restaurants. The southern beaches such as Barra Velha suit those wanting calm over nightlife, though bus service is slower and stops early.
Best hostels in Brazil


Best quality hotels in Brazil

🚌 Getting aroundTransportation options and practical tips

Ferries from São Sebastião run to the Perequê landing, and from there the Vila center is a flat 10 to 15 minute ride or about 3 km (2 miles) by local bus. Cars are the usual way to see the whole island, but backpackers manage fine with buses and boats, as long as they accept the long waits. Ferry queues for cars at weekends and holidays can be hours, though foot passengers skip them.
  • Ferry: The crossing from São Sebastião takes about 15 to 20 minutes and runs around the clock, roughly every 30 to 60 minutes. Foot passengers ride free or for under US$2, while cars pay about US$3.50 on weekdays and US$5 at weekends, collected only in São Sebastião and covering the return. It is worth it for the views of the channel and the peaks behind the town.
  • Local bus: Municipal lines run along the west coast
… read more 👉
Ferries from São Sebastião run to the Perequê landing, and from there the Vila center is a flat 10 to 15 minute ride or about 3 km (2 miles) by local bus. Cars are the usual way to see the whole island, but backpackers manage fine with buses and boats, as long as they accept the long waits. Ferry queues for cars at weekends and holidays can be hours, though foot passengers skip them.
  • Ferry: The crossing from São Sebastião takes about 15 to 20 minutes and runs around the clock, roughly every 30 to 60 minutes. Foot passengers ride free or for under US$2, while cars pay about US$3.50 on weekdays and US$5 at weekends, collected only in São Sebastião and covering the return. It is worth it for the views of the channel and the peaks behind the town.
  • Local bus: Municipal lines run along the west coast road from Perequê through the Vila to the southern beaches for about US$1 to 1.50 a ride. Service thins after dusk and buses are slow and packed in summer, but it is the cheapest way to reach Curral and Feiticeira.
  • Taxi and vans: Taxis and shared vans cost US$5 to 20 for most island trips, and they are the only practical way to Castelhanos on its rough dirt road without joining a tour. Agree the price first.
  • Walking: The Vila is compact and pleasant on foot, with short distances between the church, restaurants and the waterfront. Beyond it, the road has little shoulder, so walking between beaches is not worth the time, except on the Bonete trail.
  • Boat taxi: Small boats reach hidden beaches and the Bonete coast for US$10 to 30 per person depending on the group. They save a long walk and give the best coastline views.

👛 Costs (as of 19 October 2026)Typical daily expenses

A backpacker in Ilhabela spends about US$85 a day in high season, though the island is pricier than most Brazilian coastal towns. The table shows typical costs, paid in reais.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$18 to 35High season around US$30. Winter weekdays can drop to US$18.
MealsUS$15 to 30A prato feito costs US$7 to 12. Seafood dinners climb quickly. Cook in hostel kitchens to save.
Local transportUS$3 to 10Buses US$1 to 1.50 a ride. Taxis add up fast.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$10 to 25Waterfall entry US$3 to 6. Boat and 4x4 trips cost more.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$5 to 10Sunscreen, repellent, snacks and drinks.
Total Daily BudgetUS$51 to 110About US$85 with a mid-range day.
Buy groceries at the supermarkets in Perequê and eat your biggest meal at lunch, when set plates cost much less than dinner.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsEasy escapes and nearby places

Ilhabela works as a base for trips within the island itself, since most worthwhile outings are short and need no overnight stay.
Cachoeira da Toca:
A 25 to 40 minute hike through Atlantic forest leads to a series of natural pools and a waterfall inland, near the start of the Castelhanos road. Entry is around US$3 to 6, plus US$2 to 5 for transport to the trailhead. Go in the dry months, and wear shoes with grip because rocks are slick. First-timers often start too late and run out of daylight.

Praia de Castelhanos:
The longest beach on the island sits on the wild Atlantic side, reached by a rough 22 km (14 mile) dirt road that takes 1.5 hours each way. Shared 4x4 trips cost about US$20 to 35 per person. The empty sand and surf are the draw, and weekdays are quietest. Do not attempt it in a … read more 👉
Ilhabela works as a base for trips within the island itself, since most worthwhile outings are short and need no overnight stay.
Cachoeira da Toca:
A 25 to 40 minute hike through Atlantic forest leads to a series of natural pools and a waterfall inland, near the start of the Castelhanos road. Entry is around US$3 to 6, plus US$2 to 5 for transport to the trailhead. Go in the dry months, and wear shoes with grip because rocks are slick. First-timers often start too late and run out of daylight.

Praia de Castelhanos:
The longest beach on the island sits on the wild Atlantic side, reached by a rough 22 km (14 mile) dirt road that takes 1.5 hours each way. Shared 4x4 trips cost about US$20 to 35 per person. The empty sand and surf are the draw, and weekdays are quietest. Do not attempt it in a normal car, and expect no shade at midday.

Trilha do Bonete:
This demanding 12 km (7.5 mile) trail climbs and descends through forest to a long beach with a tiny fishing village. Plan 4 to 5 hours one way, then return by boat for about US$15 to 30 or by the same trail. Start by 8 a.m. and carry plenty of water. The mistake is leaving no time for the boat back.

Praia do Julião snorkeling:
Water taxis and schooner trips visit calm southern coves with clear water, costing US$15 to 35 for a half day. The best weather is May to September, when seas are flat. Bring your own mask to save rental fees.

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

Ilhabela is broadly safe, and the Vila feels relaxed at night, with families and restaurant crowds on the streets. Solo travelers can walk the center after dark comfortably, but keep to lit streets and use a taxi for the remote beaches and the road south, where there are few people. The most common trouble is petty theft from bags left on sand while you swim, so carry only what you need and leave valuables locked at your lodging. Cars parked at trailheads are sometimes broken into, so leave nothing visible inside.
The real everyday annoyances are borrachudo flies on beaches and trails, which bite painfully at dusk, so bring repellent and cover your ankles. Prices climb sharply on holiday weekends, and some restaurants add a service charge, so check the bill. Strong currents occur on exposed beaches such as Castelhanos, so swim near others.
Check Country Safety

FAQFrequently asked questions about Ilhabela

Ilhabela is worth a stay of its own rather than a stopover. Beyond the beaches, it has roughly 300 waterfalls, forest trails such as the 12 km Bonete route, and calm southern coves for snorkeling. Most travelers stay at least 3 nights to use the island properly.
Three to four days works well for Ilhabela. That covers one day for the Vila and nearby beaches, one for a waterfall such as Cachoeira da Toca, and one for a boat trip or the Castelhanos road, which takes about 1.5 hours each way. Add a day if you plan the full Bonete hike.
Ilhabela can be done in a day from São Sebastião, since the ferry crossing takes only 15 to 20 minutes, but you would only see the Vila and one beach. Last ferries run through the night, though queues for cars are long on weekends. Sleeping at least one night lets you reach the waterfalls and Castelhanos beach properly.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Brazilian towns near Ilhabela

Explore more nearby:

  • Ubatuba—Tamar turtles, Itamambuca surf, Atlantic forest coves, coastal buses| 51 km away
  • Paraty—Tidal cobblestones, colonial doors, bay boats, car-free center| 94 km away
  • Campos do Jordão—Mountain cool, araucaria forest, chairlift views, fondue| 122 km away

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We 💚 feedbackKey takeaways before you go

Come in the shoulder months, April to June or September, when trails are dry, beaches are quieter and the borrachudos (biting flies) are fewer. Ilhabela rewards early starts, so I would do the waterfall hikes by sunrise and leave afternoons for the beach. Skip weekends in summer if you can.

✈️ When did I visit Brazil?
Call it good timing or luck, but I was able to celebrate Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro in February 2022, after a round trip in the north and east coast.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Brazil, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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