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Chile🇨🇱 | regionsFjords of southern ChileFerry crossings, hanging glacier, marble caves, boardwalk villages | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Fjords of southern Chile
👍 Recommendedregion ranked #5
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

The Carretera Austral through this region has no road link between several fjord communities, so ferries are part of the route, not an extra. Fjords of southern Chile sits in the Aysén and southern Los Lagos stretch of Chile, south of Puerto Montt. Ferries run on fixed schedules and fill early because trucks and locals book first, so an experienced traveler reserves the crossing days ahead and builds slack around it. I expected the sailing to be a dull transfer. Instead I stood on deck while dolphins arced beside the hull and waterfalls dropped straight into the sea, and I forgot to check my phone. Rain is frequent because the Pacific hits the mountains head-on, so you plan around the weather and not against it. The scenery is superb, the villages are small and unpolished, and tourism stays thin. Logistics are slow and sometimes costly. Patient hikers and ferry fans will love it. Anyone chasing a tight schedule or nightlife will not.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #5 region in ChileWhy Fjords of southern Chile should be on your travel list

Fjords of southern Chile gives backpackers a rare setup: a coastline where the road ends and the boat takes over, so every leg becomes part of the scenery. The first reason to go is the landscape range packed into one slow journey. You can pass the glacier-hung peaks of Queulat National Park, soak in hot springs, then walk in temperate rainforest, all without flying anywhere. The second is the pace. Because ferries and buses run on set days, you stay longer in each village, share cabins and decks with locals, and end up in conversations that fast itineraries never produce. Small towns such as Puerto Puyuhuapi, with its German-settler roots, let you pair nature days with culture days easily. The third is the physical route itself, the Carretera Austral, a gravel highway that suits hitchhikers, … read more 👉
Fjords of southern Chile gives backpackers a rare setup: a coastline where the road ends and the boat takes over, so every leg becomes part of the scenery. The first reason to go is the landscape range packed into one slow journey. You can pass the glacier-hung peaks of Queulat National Park, soak in hot springs, then walk in temperate rainforest, all without flying anywhere. The second is the pace. Because ferries and buses run on set days, you stay longer in each village, share cabins and decks with locals, and end up in conversations that fast itineraries never produce. Small towns such as Puerto Puyuhuapi, with its German-settler roots, let you pair nature days with culture days easily. The third is the physical route itself, the Carretera Austral, a gravel highway that suits hitchhikers, cyclists and bus riders, and lets you change plans when the weather turns. Few places in South America ask so little of your wallet for so much dramatic ground.

💡 HighlightsMust-see experiences and standout moments

  1. Marble Caves (Capillas de Mármol), General Carrera Lake: Turquoise water has carved swirling blue-gray chambers into a marble peninsula. Go by small boat from Puerto Río Tranquilo, ideally in the morning when the light bounces strongest, and expect to pay around US$20 to 30.
  2. Carretera Austral at Puyuhuapi: A tiny fjord-side village founded by German settlers, with a carpet factory that still weaves by hand and tours of the looms.
  3. Queulat National Park and Hanging Glacier: A short trail leads to a lookout where the Ventisquero Colgante spills over a cliff and feeds a waterfall. Entry is roughly US$10 to 12.
  4. Pumalín Douglas Tompkins National Park: Temperate rainforest of giant alerce and ferns, with campsites and trails to the smoking Chaitén volcano crater and the Cascadas Escondidas.
  5. Termas de
… read more 👉
  1. Marble Caves (Capillas de Mármol), General Carrera Lake: Turquoise water has carved swirling blue-gray chambers into a marble peninsula. Go by small boat from Puerto Río Tranquilo, ideally in the morning when the light bounces strongest, and expect to pay around US$20 to 30.
  2. Carretera Austral at Puyuhuapi: A tiny fjord-side village founded by German settlers, with a carpet factory that still weaves by hand and tours of the looms.
  3. Queulat National Park and Hanging Glacier: A short trail leads to a lookout where the Ventisquero Colgante spills over a cliff and feeds a waterfall. Entry is roughly US$10 to 12.
  4. Pumalín Douglas Tompkins National Park: Temperate rainforest of giant alerce and ferns, with campsites and trails to the smoking Chaitén volcano crater and the Cascadas Escondidas.
  5. Termas de Puyuhuapi: Hot springs on the fjord shore, reached by a short boat crossing from a jetty about 13 km south of the village, where you soak while rain drums on the water.
  6. Chiloé Island churches: Wooden UNESCO-listed churches such as Castro and Achao, built by Jesuit missionaries and local carpenters with ship-building skills, no iron nails in the oldest.
  7. Castro palafitos: Stilted houses painted in strong colors that line the water, best seen at high tide with a plate of curanto nearby.
  8. Caleta Tortel: A village with no streets, only cedar boardwalks and stairways over the water. Walk it slowly, and head to the Playa Ancha beach for quiet.
  9. Cochrane and the Tamango sector of Patagonia National Park: Lesser known, this former reserve beside Cochrane offers huemul deer spotting and views over Cochrane Lake with few other hikers.
  10. Exploradores Glacier valley: Another quiet corner. Guided walks reach the Exploradores Glacier, part of the Northern Patagonian Ice Field, where you wear crampons across ridged blue ice.
Most visitors rush past the Tamango sector, yet its huemul sightings and empty lakeside trails are the best quiet hours on the whole Carretera Austral.
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⌛️ 5 daysHow to make the most of Fjords of southern Chile

Plan on moving by bus and ferry, with each day built around a departure time and a long afternoon on foot afterward.
Day 1: Hornopirén: Start here because the southbound ferry leaves from this port, and arriving the day before spares you the stress of a missed boat. Walk the shoreline, eat local fish and sleep early.
Day 2: Caleta Gonzalo: The ferry crosses the fjord and lands inside Pumalín park. Camp or take a cabin, then hike a waterfall or forest trail while the daylight lasts. Because few services exist, you carry food.
Day 3: Puerto Puyuhuapi: Buses run south on the gravel highway and drop you at this quiet village. Spend the afternoon at the fjord shore, then book the boat to the hot springs. This pause matters because transport is infrequent and rest keeps you flexible.
Day 4: Queulat … read more 👉
Plan on moving by bus and ferry, with each day built around a departure time and a long afternoon on foot afterward.
Day 1: Hornopirén: Start here because the southbound ferry leaves from this port, and arriving the day before spares you the stress of a missed boat. Walk the shoreline, eat local fish and sleep early.
Day 2: Caleta Gonzalo: The ferry crosses the fjord and lands inside Pumalín park. Camp or take a cabin, then hike a waterfall or forest trail while the daylight lasts. Because few services exist, you carry food.
Day 3: Puerto Puyuhuapi: Buses run south on the gravel highway and drop you at this quiet village. Spend the afternoon at the fjord shore, then book the boat to the hot springs. This pause matters because transport is infrequent and rest keeps you flexible.
Day 4: Queulat National Park: Walk to the hanging glacier viewpoint early, when the trail is empty and low cloud often lifts. Return to the village by bus or hitch.
Day 5: Puerto Cisnes: A short detour west from the main road reaches this fishing town, giving you a working harbor and views away from the tourist line. It adds variety without breaking the schedule, since buses connect back.
If you only get one day, I would choose Day 4: the glacier above the lagoon is the sight that justifies the long journey.

🌤️ When to go?Choosing the right time of year

December to February gives the most reliable window for the fjords around Puerto Montt, Chiloé and the Carretera Austral.
  • Summer (Dec to Feb): Highs run 18 to 22°C (64 to 72°F), with daylight stretching past 15 hours. Ferries and hostels fill up and prices peak, so book ahead.
  • Autumn (Mar to May): Temperatures sit at 10 to 16°C (50 to 61°F), forests turn red and gold, and crowds thin quickly. Rain increases through May.
  • Winter (Jun to Aug): Highs of 6 to 10°C (43 to 50°F), about 8 to 9 hours of light, and heavy rain. Some ferries and lodges cut schedules, but prices drop.
  • Spring (Sep to Nov): Expect 9 to 15°C (48 to 59°F), blooming slopes and changeable skies. Services reopen gradually by November.
Wind and rain can hit any month, so build one spare day into every ferry connection.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: fair for travelingMAYMay: below average for travelingJUNJune: below average for travelingJULJuly: below average for travelingAUGAugust: below average for travelingSEPSeptember: fair for travelingOCTOctober: good for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling
chile-region-fjords-of-southern-chile
© Google | Marta López

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🛏️ Where to stay?How to pick the right area

Puerto Varas is the easiest first base, with lake views, volcanoes and plenty of hostels. It is safe, walkable and social, and sits 20 minutes from Puerto Montt by bus. Hikers and kayakers meet here before heading south.
Puerto Montt itself works only as a transit stop. Its terminal and ferry docks are useful, but the center is rougher after dark, so one night is enough.
On Chiloé, Castro is the practical choice. It has the palafito stilt houses, a lively waterfront and buses to Chonchi, Dalcahue and Cucao. Ancud suits travelers who prefer a quieter, sea-facing town.
Farther south, Chaitén and Puyuhuapi … read more 👉
Puerto Varas is the easiest first base, with lake views, volcanoes and plenty of hostels. It is safe, walkable and social, and sits 20 minutes from Puerto Montt by bus. Hikers and kayakers meet here before heading south.
Puerto Montt itself works only as a transit stop. Its terminal and ferry docks are useful, but the center is rougher after dark, so one night is enough.
On Chiloé, Castro is the practical choice. It has the palafito stilt houses, a lively waterfront and buses to Chonchi, Dalcahue and Cucao. Ancud suits travelers who prefer a quieter, sea-facing town.
Farther south, Chaitén and Puyuhuapi are small, friendly bases for Pumalín Park trails and hot springs. Futaleufú draws rafters and kayakers who linger for days.
Coyhaique is the largest town on the Carretera Austral. It has supermarkets, gear shops and the most hostels, so it is good for resupply and meeting other travelers. Expect dorm beds around US$15 to 30 and higher in January.
Best hostels in Chile


Best quality hotels in Chile

🚌 Getting aroundGetting around like a local

Towns like Puerto Varas, Castro or Puyuhuapi are small enough to cover on foot in 15 to 20 minutes, but walking stops making sense once you head for trailheads, waterfalls or hot springs 10 to 40 kilometers out. Distances look short on the map, yet steep terrain, water gaps and sparse roads make travel slower and less frequent than you expect. Most backpackers combine buses, ferries and hitching, and it works well if you plan around the weather and the limited schedules.
  • Long-distance buses: Companies link Puerto Montt with Chiloé (about 3 hours to Castro, US$8 to 12) and run Carretera Austral routes to Chaitén and Coyhaique. Routes are few because the population is thin, so seats sell out in summer. Experienced travelers buy tickets a day or two ahead.
  • Ferries: Water cuts the road network,
… read more 👉
Towns like Puerto Varas, Castro or Puyuhuapi are small enough to cover on foot in 15 to 20 minutes, but walking stops making sense once you head for trailheads, waterfalls or hot springs 10 to 40 kilometers out. Distances look short on the map, yet steep terrain, water gaps and sparse roads make travel slower and less frequent than you expect. Most backpackers combine buses, ferries and hitching, and it works well if you plan around the weather and the limited schedules.
  • Long-distance buses: Companies link Puerto Montt with Chiloé (about 3 hours to Castro, US$8 to 12) and run Carretera Austral routes to Chaitén and Coyhaique. Routes are few because the population is thin, so seats sell out in summer. Experienced travelers buy tickets a day or two ahead.
  • Ferries: Water cuts the road network, so ferries are part of the route. The Chacao crossing to Chiloé takes 30 minutes and is usually included in the bus fare. Longer crossings, such as Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo, cost roughly US$20 to 40 per passenger and need reservations in January and February.
  • Shared taxis and colectivos: On short rural stretches, these fill the gaps where buses do not run, typically US$2 to 8. Ask locally the evening before, since departures happen when cars fill.
  • Hitchhiking: Traffic is light but drivers on the Carretera Austral often stop, because services are scarce. Carry food, rain gear and a sign, and start early. Waits can reach two hours, so keep a bus as backup.
  • Organized transfers and boats: Shuttles and boat tours reach glaciers and fjord viewpoints that no public transport serves, around US$30 to 100 depending on distance.
Check ferry timetables and weather before anything else, then fit buses around them, because the water crossings are the least flexible links.

🍲 FoodLocal Cuisine & Drinks

Seafood defines the fjords. Try curanto, a Chilote pit-cooked pile of shellfish, pork, sausage and potato breads, smoky and salty, often served with a broth of clam juices. Milcao and chapalele are dense potato dumplings that fuel hikers. Also look for salmon, mussels and erizos (sea urchin), plus cordero al palo, lamb roasted for hours beside an open fire in Patagonia.
For a budget meal, head to harbor markets such as Angelmó in Puerto Montt, where stalls sell steaming caldillo de congrio (conger eel soup) for roughly US$8 to 12. Bakeries sell empanadas and kuchen, a German legacy around Puerto Varas and Frutillar, where cafés serve slabs of cake for US$3 to 6. Small family-run comedores offer a set lunch, the menú del día, usually US$6 to 10.
To drink, try chicha de manzana, a cloudy cider … read more 👉
Seafood defines the fjords. Try curanto, a Chilote pit-cooked pile of shellfish, pork, sausage and potato breads, smoky and salty, often served with a broth of clam juices. Milcao and chapalele are dense potato dumplings that fuel hikers. Also look for salmon, mussels and erizos (sea urchin), plus cordero al palo, lamb roasted for hours beside an open fire in Patagonia.
For a budget meal, head to harbor markets such as Angelmó in Puerto Montt, where stalls sell steaming caldillo de congrio (conger eel soup) for roughly US$8 to 12. Bakeries sell empanadas and kuchen, a German legacy around Puerto Varas and Frutillar, where cafés serve slabs of cake for US$3 to 6. Small family-run comedores offer a set lunch, the menú del día, usually US$6 to 10.
To drink, try chicha de manzana, a cloudy cider from Chiloé, or local craft beer. Mate and once, the late afternoon tea with bread and avocado, are social rituals. Lunch is the main meal, around 1 to 3 pm, and dinners start late. Tipping about 10 percent is customary.

FAQCommon questions from travelers

Five to seven days covers the Puerto Varas and Chiloé corner of the Fjords of southern Chile, while 10 to 14 days lets you continue down the Carretera Austral to Chaitén, Puyuhuapi and Coyhaique. Allow two days for Chiloé's churches and Castro. Add buffer days for ferry delays, which are common in winter.
Buses and ferries link the main towns of the Fjords of southern Chile, with Puerto Montt to Castro taking about 3 hours for US$8 to 12. On the Carretera Austral, buses run only a few times a week on some segments, so many travelers hitchhike or take shared taxis. Ferries such as Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo cost roughly US$20 to 40 and need advance booking in summer.
The Fjords of southern Chile are known for steep, forested waterways, glaciers and volcanoes such as Osorno and Calbuco. Chiloé is famous for its wooden UNESCO-listed churches and stilt houses, and Pumalín Park draws hikers to temperate rainforest trails. The Carretera Austral road, running roughly 1,240 kilometers from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins, ties it together.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Chilean regions near Fjords of southern Chile

Explore more nearby:

  • Chiloé Island—Shingled churches, stilt houses, curanto, rain| 218 km away
  • Lake District—Smoking volcano, araucaria forest, hot springs, whitewater| 558 km away
  • Isla Navarino—Dientes trek, Beagle Channel, Yagán heritage, Cape Horn sailings| 1237 km away

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We 💚 feedbackIs it worth it?

Give Fjords of southern Chile at least a week, because ferry timetables and rain will eat a day or two whatever you plan. Ten days lets you wait out weather and explore side villages. I would pack a waterproof layer, book ferries early and keep one spare day.

✈️ When did I visit Chile?
I have visited Chile, together with Argentina, in September 2012.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Chile, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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