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Cuba🇨🇺 | beachesPlaya PilarTall dunes, Cayo Guillermo, Hemingway’s boat, quiet western end | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Playa Pilar
🏆 Top pickbeach ranked #1
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

The sand squeaks under your sandals as you cross the last dune and the water opens up below you, pale green over a bar of white sand. That squeak is Playa Pilar, on the northwest tip of Cayo Guillermo in the Jardines del Rey, off the north coast of Cuba. I walked to the far end, past the last row of sunbeds, and dropped my bag under a sea grape tree. Do the same, because the shade there is free and the crowd thins within minutes. The upsides are clear: clean, soft sand, calm shallow water and some of the tallest dunes on the island. The downsides are just as clear. Midday brings tour buses from the resorts, drinks cost resort prices, and there is no budget bed on the cay. Skip the sunbed rental and the souvenir stalls. Go for the dunes and the water. Bring your own water, snacks, cash and sunscreen, since the beach has little.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #1 beach in CubaWhy Playa Pilar should be on your travel list

Playa Pilar earns its stop for the dunes that rise well above the beach, which give you a view over the water that flat Caribbean strands never offer. Climb one in the late afternoon, when the tour groups have gone, and you see the sandbars drawing pale stripes across the shallows. The water stays calm and waist-deep for a long way out, so it suits weak swimmers and anyone who wants to float for an hour without a wave in sight.

The second reason is the name. The beach is named after Hemingway’s fishing boat, Pilar, and the writer used these cays as a setting for Islands in the Stream. If you have read it, the mangroves, the sea grape and the open flats make more sense on the spot.

The third reason is the route. Playa Pilar sits at the far end of the road that crosses the causeway from the … read more 👉
Playa Pilar earns its stop for the dunes that rise well above the beach, which give you a view over the water that flat Caribbean strands never offer. Climb one in the late afternoon, when the tour groups have gone, and you see the sandbars drawing pale stripes across the shallows. The water stays calm and waist-deep for a long way out, so it suits weak swimmers and anyone who wants to float for an hour without a wave in sight.

The second reason is the name. The beach is named after Hemingway’s fishing boat, Pilar, and the writer used these cays as a setting for Islands in the Stream. If you have read it, the mangroves, the sea grape and the open flats make more sense on the spot.

The third reason is the route. Playa Pilar sits at the far end of the road that crosses the causeway from the mainland, so most travelers come on a break from Cuba’s interior or from the colonial towns, then move on. It works as a clean, easy rest day, with a swim and a walk, before you return to the cities and rooms with a bit more character.

💡 HighlightsDon't-miss highlights and experiences

  1. The Playa Pilar dunes. These are among the highest dunes in Cuba, topped with sea grape and scrub. The sand is loose, so go barefoot or in sandals and take your time. From the crest you see the whole shape of the beach, and the sandbars show as pale ribbons under the turquoise water. It is also the best spot for photos without a crowd in the frame.
  2. The shallow lagoon-like water. The sea here is clear and gentle, with a sandy floor and almost no surf. You can wade far out and still keep your chin above the surface, which makes it good for floating, for small children and for nervous swimmers. Go in the morning, when the surface is flattest and the beach is quiet.
  3. The Hemingway connection. The beach carries the name of the writer’s boat, and he used the cays as a setting for Islands in the Stream.
… read more 👉
  1. The Playa Pilar dunes. These are among the highest dunes in Cuba, topped with sea grape and scrub. The sand is loose, so go barefoot or in sandals and take your time. From the crest you see the whole shape of the beach, and the sandbars show as pale ribbons under the turquoise water. It is also the best spot for photos without a crowd in the frame.
  2. The shallow lagoon-like water. The sea here is clear and gentle, with a sandy floor and almost no surf. You can wade far out and still keep your chin above the surface, which makes it good for floating, for small children and for nervous swimmers. Go in the morning, when the surface is flattest and the beach is quiet.
  3. The Hemingway connection. The beach carries the name of the writer’s boat, and he used the cays as a setting for Islands in the Stream. Walk along the tideline and look back toward the mangroves, the same low, tangled green he wrote about. Pack the novel if you have it, since a few pages read in this setting land differently.
  4. Snorkeling the near reef. Off Cayo Guillermo the reef starts close to shore, and snorkelers see parrotfish, sergeant majors and sea fans in clear water. Bring your own mask, as rental gear is limited and often worn. Choose a calm morning for the best visibility, and wear a rash guard because the sun is strong even over water.
  5. The quiet western end of the beach. Walk past the sunbeds and the beach bar until the loungers stop. Beyond them the sand runs on toward dune scrub, where small lizards dart between the roots and shorebirds work the waterline. It takes a few minutes on foot and gives you the part of Playa Pilar most day visitors never reach.
Climb the dunes first, early in the day, because the sand is cooler, the light is soft and you see the shape of the beach before the tour groups fill it.
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🌤️ When to go?Weather, crowds, and seasonal trade-offs

  • Dry Season (November to April): Playa Pilar is at its most comfortable now, with highs of 26 to 29°C (79 to 84°F), little rain and calm, clear water. Daylight runs roughly 11 to 12 hours. Day-trip boats from the Cayo Guillermo hotel strip arrive in numbers around midday, and Christmas through Easter brings the most people and the highest prices.
  • Hot Wet Season (May to October): Highs reach 31 to 33°C (88 to 91°F), and afternoon thunderstorms roll through most days. Mornings are usually bright, and the sand is far emptier. Room rates drop noticeably, though mosquitoes and humidity rise.
  • Hurricane Window (August to October): September and October carry the highest storm risk for Cuba’s northern cays. Daylight is about 11.5 to 13 hours. Flights and the causeway can be disrupted, so you need flexible
… read more 👉
  • Dry Season (November to April): Playa Pilar is at its most comfortable now, with highs of 26 to 29°C (79 to 84°F), little rain and calm, clear water. Daylight runs roughly 11 to 12 hours. Day-trip boats from the Cayo Guillermo hotel strip arrive in numbers around midday, and Christmas through Easter brings the most people and the highest prices.
  • Hot Wet Season (May to October): Highs reach 31 to 33°C (88 to 91°F), and afternoon thunderstorms roll through most days. Mornings are usually bright, and the sand is far emptier. Room rates drop noticeably, though mosquitoes and humidity rise.
  • Hurricane Window (August to October): September and October carry the highest storm risk for Cuba’s northern cays. Daylight is about 11.5 to 13 hours. Flights and the causeway can be disrupted, so you need flexible plans.
  • Shoulder Months (November and late April to May): Water is warm, the sky is mostly dry, and crowds are thin. Daily highs of 28 to 31°C (82 to 88°F) are easy to handle.
Arrive before 10 a.m. to have the long white sand to yourself before the day boats land.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: excellent for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: fair for travelingJUNJune: fair for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: below average for travelingOCTOctober: fair for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?How to pick the right area

Most backpackers sleep in Morón or Ciego de Ávila, not on the cay. Playa Pilar sits at the western tip of Cayo Guillermo, an enclave of all-inclusive resorts with no budget lodging and no village. Morón, on the mainland about an hour and a half to two hours away by road, is the practical budget base. Casas particulares there run roughly US$20 to 35 a night, the streets are calm, and the hosts arrange shared taxis, breakfast and onward transport. It is the sort of town where you meet other travelers over a rooftop dinner.

Ciego de Ávila city is the second option. It is larger, with more casas, … read more 👉
Most backpackers sleep in Morón or Ciego de Ávila, not on the cay. Playa Pilar sits at the western tip of Cayo Guillermo, an enclave of all-inclusive resorts with no budget lodging and no village. Morón, on the mainland about an hour and a half to two hours away by road, is the practical budget base. Casas particulares there run roughly US$20 to 35 a night, the streets are calm, and the hosts arrange shared taxis, breakfast and onward transport. It is the sort of town where you meet other travelers over a rooftop dinner.

Ciego de Ávila city is the second option. It is larger, with more casas, a lively evening scene around the central park and better bus and train links, but the beach is a longer trip.

On the cays, resort day passes at Cayo Guillermo are the route if you want to stay close, usually US$60 to 120 depending on the property.

For most budget travelers, I would pick Morón, split a taxi with other guests and treat Playa Pilar as a full-day outing. Reserve ahead in winter, when the better casas fill up.
Best hostels in Cuba


Best quality hotels in Cuba

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

Playa Pilar is calm and easy, with shallow turquoise water and a gentle slope that suits most swimmers. Waves are small on the sheltered stretches, and strong rips are uncommon. Wind occasionally kicks up chop on the exposed side, and after a northern front the sea can turn rougher and cloudier. Some patches of seagrass and a few sea urchins sit near the rocks, so water shoes help if you wade beyond the main strip. Jellyfish are rarely a problem.

The sun is the real hazard. Shade is limited, the sand reflects heat, and there is little cover from late morning through mid-afternoon. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a hat and plenty of drinking water, since sellers are few. A small beach bar and a few shaded huts operate, but supplies can run out.

Theft is rare. Even so, keep your passport at your … read more 👉
Playa Pilar is calm and easy, with shallow turquoise water and a gentle slope that suits most swimmers. Waves are small on the sheltered stretches, and strong rips are uncommon. Wind occasionally kicks up chop on the exposed side, and after a northern front the sea can turn rougher and cloudier. Some patches of seagrass and a few sea urchins sit near the rocks, so water shoes help if you wade beyond the main strip. Jellyfish are rarely a problem.

The sun is the real hazard. Shade is limited, the sand reflects heat, and there is little cover from late morning through mid-afternoon. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, a hat and plenty of drinking water, since sellers are few. A small beach bar and a few shaded huts operate, but supplies can run out.

Theft is rare. Even so, keep your passport at your lodging and carry only the cash you need, and do not leave bags unattended while swimming. Staff on site generally keep an eye out, and the beach is well managed by the resorts nearby.
Check Country Safety

FAQTraveler FAQ

Playa Pilar is reached by road over the causeway to Cayo Guillermo, about 1.5 hours from Morón by taxi and longer from Ciego de Ávila city. A private taxi from Morón costs roughly US$60 to 100 each way, while a shared ride or hotel excursion can be cheaper. Most visitors take a full-day trip from the cays, and the site is at the cay’s western end with a short walk or shuttle from the parking area.
Playa Pilar is excellent for swimming, with warm, shallow, clear water and gentle waves. Snorkeling is fair near rocky edges, where you may see small tropical fish, but the better reefs lie offshore and need a boat trip. Surfing is not an option because the swell is tiny. Visit in the dry season from November to April for the calmest water and best visibility.
Playa Pilar has no entrance fee to walk onto the sand, though access passes through Cayo Guillermo and its causeway. Cuban toll or road fees may apply at the checkpoint, usually only a few US dollars. Sun loungers, umbrellas, food and drinks cost extra, and meals at the beach bar run about US$8 to 20. Resort guests often have these included, while day visitors pay as they go.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Cuban beaches near Playa Pilar

Explore more nearby:

  • Playa Los Flamencos—Flamingo lagoons, Cayo Coco causeway, knee-deep shallows, El Bagá park| 29 km away
  • Playa Ancón—Four-kilometer sand, Trinidad access, catamaran cays, beach-shack plates| 167 km away
  • Playa Rancho Luna—Cienfuegos dive shops, shore reef, casuarina shade, gray-gold sand| 189 km away

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We 💚 feedbackParting advice and final tips

Playa Pilar needs half a day, or a full day if you love empty sand and calm water. Longer is hard to justify on a budget, since the cay has no cheap places to sleep or eat. I would arrive before the tour buses, climb the dunes, swim, and head back to the mainland by late afternoon.

✈️ When did I visit Cuba?
As part of my 1.5 year travel around the world trip, I visited Cuba for 6 weeks in February, March 2016, being extremely lucky that that coincided with the free concert of The Rolling Stones.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Cuba, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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