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Cuba🇨🇺 | townsSan Antonio de los BañosHumor museum, Ariguanabo swimming, film school, colectivo rides | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in San Antonio de los Baños
👍 Recommendedtown ranked #11
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 23, 2026

San Antonio de los Baños is not a beach or spa town despite the name; the “baños” refers to the Ariguanabo River, which locals still swim in. It sits in Cuba’s Artemisa province, southwest of Havana. Skip the town’s modest center if you want sights, since the real draws are the humor museum, the river and the film school nearby. Havana’s colectivo taxis and trains serve it, so book a shared car the day before, because drivers wait to fill seats and leave when full. Casas particulares are few and evenings are quiet, so you’ll meet locals more than backpackers. Carry small cash, since cards rarely work.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #11 town in CubaWhat makes it a must-see town

San Antonio de los Baños suits travelers who want a Cuban town with no tour buses. Its main draw is the Museo Nacional del Humor, a rare national museum devoted to cartoons and satire, plus a river you can walk along and a relaxed local pace. Most people come for a day from Havana, though two nights in a casa particular gives you slow mornings and a real feel for provincial life. It works well for solo travelers, slow travelers and anyone who likes art or cinema. Nightlife is minimal, mostly music from porches and a few bars. Pair it with the Havana region rather than treating it as a headline stop.

💡 HighlightsKey sights and experiences for travelers

  1. Museo Nacional del Humor: The town’s best-known sight, a collection of Cuban and international cartoons and caricatures in a handsome building near the park. Go in the morning when it is quiet. Entry is about US$2 to 3, and 1 hour is plenty.
  2. Río Ariguanabo: The river that gave the town its spa reputation, with shaded banks for walking and local swimming spots. Late afternoon is pleasant. Free to walk, and 1 to 2 hours works.
  3. Parque Central and Iglesia de San Antonio de Padua: The town square and its church are where daily life plays out, with older men talking and kids playing. Evenings are liveliest. Free, 30 to 45 minutes.
  4. Side streets and murals: Wander the side streets around the center to see murals, small workshops and neighborhood stores. Mornings are best. Free, about 1 hour.
  5. Escuela Internacional
… read more 👉
  1. Museo Nacional del Humor: The town’s best-known sight, a collection of Cuban and international cartoons and caricatures in a handsome building near the park. Go in the morning when it is quiet. Entry is about US$2 to 3, and 1 hour is plenty.
  2. Río Ariguanabo: The river that gave the town its spa reputation, with shaded banks for walking and local swimming spots. Late afternoon is pleasant. Free to walk, and 1 to 2 hours works.
  3. Parque Central and Iglesia de San Antonio de Padua: The town square and its church are where daily life plays out, with older men talking and kids playing. Evenings are liveliest. Free, 30 to 45 minutes.
  4. Side streets and murals: Wander the side streets around the center to see murals, small workshops and neighborhood stores. Mornings are best. Free, about 1 hour.
  5. Escuela Internacional de Cine y TV (EICTV): The film school founded by Gabriel García Márquez and others sits just outside town and draws students from across Latin America and beyond. Visits are usually by arrangement or during screenings. Costs vary, around US$0 to 5, 1 to 2 hours.
For day trips, San Antonio de los Baños pairs well with Havana, the Soroa orchid garden and waterfall in Artemisa, and the Playa del Este beaches. The Museo Nacional del Humor may charge a small fee at the door, and the film school is best arranged ahead.
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🏘️ NeighborhoodsWhere things are and how it's laid out

San Antonio de los Baños is small enough to cover on foot in a morning, so treat these areas as stops rather than districts to plan around.
  • Central Park and the Ariguanabo River edge: This is the core, with the main square, the Museo del Humor (the town’s signature draw, built around its cartoon and humor tradition) and the riverside. Go here first. Cartoons tie into a long-running humor festival, which is why the town is nicknamed the city of humor, and the murals and sculptures on the streets are free to see, so skip any guide you are offered.
  • Riverbank and Ariguanabo bathing spots: Locals swim and picnic here on hot weekends. It is crowded on Sundays, so go on a weekday, and bring your own drinks because stalls are sparse and prices climb.
  • Calle 41 and the surrounding blocks: Everyday Cuban
… read more 👉
San Antonio de los Baños is small enough to cover on foot in a morning, so treat these areas as stops rather than districts to plan around.
  • Central Park and the Ariguanabo River edge: This is the core, with the main square, the Museo del Humor (the town’s signature draw, built around its cartoon and humor tradition) and the riverside. Go here first. Cartoons tie into a long-running humor festival, which is why the town is nicknamed the city of humor, and the murals and sculptures on the streets are free to see, so skip any guide you are offered.
  • Riverbank and Ariguanabo bathing spots: Locals swim and picnic here on hot weekends. It is crowded on Sundays, so go on a weekday, and bring your own drinks because stalls are sparse and prices climb.
  • Calle 41 and the surrounding blocks: Everyday Cuban life, with small peso-priced snack counters, bakeries and paladares. Eat where residents queue. Menus without prices usually mean tourist markups.
  • Outskirts toward the film school: The international film school (EICTV) sits outside the center. Visits are limited and need permission, so do not make a special trip. Evenings are quiet, with music at a few cultural venues, and nightlife is minimal. Havana is where experienced travelers go for late nights.

⌛️ 1 daySeeing the highlights in 24 hours

9:00 AM, Parque Central: Start with coffee near the church and watch the town wake up. Walk the square and the shaded streets around it, then continue a few blocks to the museum.
10:00 AM, Museo Nacional del Humor: Spend an hour with the cartoons and caricatures, which are visual enough that you don’t need much Spanish. Afterward walk toward the river.
12:00 PM, Río Ariguanabo: Stroll the banks, watch locals fish and swim, and rest in the shade. This is where the town’s name comes from.
1:30 PM, Lunch at a paladar: Pick a small family-run spot for pork, rice and beans, then rest through the hot hours.
4:00 PM, Neighborhood side streets: Away from the standard route, wander the residential blocks behind the center, where murals, domino games and porch music show daily life. Say hello and you will … read more 👉
9:00 AM, Parque Central: Start with coffee near the church and watch the town wake up. Walk the square and the shaded streets around it, then continue a few blocks to the museum.
10:00 AM, Museo Nacional del Humor: Spend an hour with the cartoons and caricatures, which are visual enough that you don’t need much Spanish. Afterward walk toward the river.
12:00 PM, Río Ariguanabo: Stroll the banks, watch locals fish and swim, and rest in the shade. This is where the town’s name comes from.
1:30 PM, Lunch at a paladar: Pick a small family-run spot for pork, rice and beans, then rest through the hot hours.
4:00 PM, Neighborhood side streets: Away from the standard route, wander the residential blocks behind the center, where murals, domino games and porch music show daily life. Say hello and you will usually be welcomed.
6:00 PM, EICTV area: If you arranged a visit, see the film school grounds before dusk, or simply walk back to the park.
7:30 PM, Parque Central: Finish with a drink and live music from nearby bars.

🌤️ When to go?Best time to visit San Antonio de los Baños

The dry months of November to April are the most comfortable, with highs of 26 to 29°C (79 to 84°F) and low humidity.
  • Dry Season (November to April): Nights can fall to 15 to 18°C (59 to 64°F) in winter. Days are about 10.5 to 12 hours long. Havana-bound crowds raise prices slightly in December and January.
  • Wet Season (May to October): Hot and sticky, 31 to 34°C (88 to 93°F), with afternoon downpours. The river is lively, but mosquitoes increase. Rooms are easiest to get.
  • Hurricane Risk (August to October): Storms can disrupt transport and power.
  • Humor Festival: Cartoon events bring visitors and artists, so book ahead if your dates match.
Aim for February or March, when the weather is mild and the town is calm.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: highly recommended for travelingFEBFebruary: highly recommended for travelingMARMarch: good for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: fair for travelingJUNJune: fair for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: fair for travelingOCTOctober: fair for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: good for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Choosing the right base

Stay near the central park, where private rooms in family homes (casas particulares) run about US$15 to 30 a night. There are no true hostels, so travelers rely on these licensed homes, which often include breakfast for US$3 to 6 more.
The area around the park suits budget travelers because restaurants, the museum and the shared-taxi stop are all a short walk away, and streets stay lit and calm after dark. Noise is mostly roosters and music on weekends.
The riverside blocks near Ariguanabo are a quieter second option with a cooler breeze and somewhat lower rates, though a few streets are dim at … read more 👉
Stay near the central park, where private rooms in family homes (casas particulares) run about US$15 to 30 a night. There are no true hostels, so travelers rely on these licensed homes, which often include breakfast for US$3 to 6 more.
The area around the park suits budget travelers because restaurants, the museum and the shared-taxi stop are all a short walk away, and streets stay lit and calm after dark. Noise is mostly roosters and music on weekends.
The riverside blocks near Ariguanabo are a quieter second option with a cooler breeze and somewhat lower rates, though a few streets are dim at night and you will walk farther for food. Avoid the roadsides along the highway, where trucks pass early. Book directly through the host by message, and ask about hot water and power backup, since outages occur.
Best hostels in Cuba


Best quality hotels in Cuba

🚌 Getting aroundTransportation options and practical tips

San Antonio de los Baños runs on shared taxis and horse carts, and a ride within town typically costs the equivalent of US$0.50 to 2, paid in cash pesos (small bills help, since drivers rarely have change). The center is flat and compact, so walking handles most days. Public buses are infrequent and unreliable, so do not plan around them.
  • Walking: Free and fastest for the center, river and museum. The heat peaks at midday, so move early or late.
  • Shared taxis (colectivos) to Havana: About 35 to 45 km, roughly 1 to 1.5 hours, usually US$2 to 5 per seat. They leave when full from the main road, so go in the morning when they fill faster.
  • Bici-taxis and horse carts: US$0.50 to 2 per short ride. Agree on the fare first because quotes rise for foreigners. They are worth it for the outskirts but not
… read more 👉
San Antonio de los Baños runs on shared taxis and horse carts, and a ride within town typically costs the equivalent of US$0.50 to 2, paid in cash pesos (small bills help, since drivers rarely have change). The center is flat and compact, so walking handles most days. Public buses are infrequent and unreliable, so do not plan around them.
  • Walking: Free and fastest for the center, river and museum. The heat peaks at midday, so move early or late.
  • Shared taxis (colectivos) to Havana: About 35 to 45 km, roughly 1 to 1.5 hours, usually US$2 to 5 per seat. They leave when full from the main road, so go in the morning when they fill faster.
  • Bici-taxis and horse carts: US$0.50 to 2 per short ride. Agree on the fare first because quotes rise for foreigners. They are worth it for the outskirts but not for the center.
  • Private taxi: US$15 to 25 to nearby spots or the film school, and US$30 to 45 to Havana, bookable through your casa host, who usually gets a better rate than the street.
  • Viazul and Astro buses: Not worth the effort here, as services are limited and tickets are scarce. Experienced travelers go via Havana or take a colectivo.

👛 Costs (as of 23 October 2026)How expensive it really is

San Antonio de los Baños costs most backpackers about US$31 to 65 a day, and the total below uses the high-season room rate.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$15 to 30Private rooms in family homes, since dorms are rare. Rates rise in December and January.
MealsUS$10 to 20Peso snack counters are cheapest. Paladares serve a full plate with rice, beans and pork for US$5 to 8.
Local transportUS$1 to 4Walking is free. Bici-taxis and shared rides cost US$0.50 to 2.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$2 to 5Museo del Humor and small cultural venues charge a few dollars.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$3 to 6Water, snacks, tips and internet cards.
Total Daily BudgetUS$31 to 65Roughly US$61 using the high-season room at US$30 with mid-range choices elsewhere.
Eat breakfast at your casa and lunch at … read more 👉
San Antonio de los Baños costs most backpackers about US$31 to 65 a day, and the total below uses the high-season room rate.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$15 to 30Private rooms in family homes, since dorms are rare. Rates rise in December and January.
MealsUS$10 to 20Peso snack counters are cheapest. Paladares serve a full plate with rice, beans and pork for US$5 to 8.
Local transportUS$1 to 4Walking is free. Bici-taxis and shared rides cost US$0.50 to 2.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$2 to 5Museo del Humor and small cultural venues charge a few dollars.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$3 to 6Water, snacks, tips and internet cards.
Total Daily BudgetUS$31 to 65Roughly US$61 using the high-season room at US$30 with mid-range choices elsewhere.
Eat breakfast at your casa and lunch at peso counters, which can cut your food bill by almost half.


source: cubatravel.cu
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsWhere to go beyond the main area

San Antonio de los Baños sits close to Havana and farmland, so day trips are easy and cheap if you start early.Havana: The capital is 1 to 1.5 hours away by colectivo, US$2 to 5 each way, so a full day with food costs about US$25 to 40. Go between November and April, and leave town by 8 a.m. to get the return seat. Many first-timers underestimate how late the last shared car fills.
👉 Explore HavanaArtemisa: This provincial capital is about 30 minutes away, with a quieter city center and country markets. Cost is under US$10 round trip with lunch. It is dry and cooler from January to March, and the market is busiest in the morning.
👉 Explore ArtemisaPlaya Baracoa: The small beach west of Havana takes about 1.5 hours with a transfer, and costs US$10 to 20. Choose weekdays to avoid crowds, and carry … read more 👉
San Antonio de los Baños sits close to Havana and farmland, so day trips are easy and cheap if you start early.Havana: The capital is 1 to 1.5 hours away by colectivo, US$2 to 5 each way, so a full day with food costs about US$25 to 40. Go between November and April, and leave town by 8 a.m. to get the return seat. Many first-timers underestimate how late the last shared car fills.
👉 Explore HavanaArtemisa: This provincial capital is about 30 minutes away, with a quieter city center and country markets. Cost is under US$10 round trip with lunch. It is dry and cooler from January to March, and the market is busiest in the morning.
👉 Explore ArtemisaPlaya Baracoa: The small beach west of Havana takes about 1.5 hours with a transfer, and costs US$10 to 20. Choose weekdays to avoid crowds, and carry water because shade and shops are limited.
Soroa: The orchid garden and waterfall in the Sierra del Rosario are 1.5 to 2 hours by private taxi, roughly US$50 to 70 split among passengers, plus entry of US$3 to 5. Go after rain from May to October for more water, but wear shoes with grip.
👉 Explore Soroa

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

San Antonio de los Baños is calm and widely considered safe, including for solo travelers walking the center after dark. Petty theft is rare but possible near the riverside crowds on Sundays, so keep phones and cash in front pockets. The usual annoyances are touts offering rides, cigars or a casa, and the “friend” who steers you toward a particular restaurant for a commission. Politely decline and choose your own. Fix prices before taking a bici-taxi or colectivo. Some side streets are poorly lit at night, so carry a small flashlight and stick to the central blocks. Power cuts happen, so charge devices when you can.
Check Country Safety

FAQFrequently asked questions about San Antonio de los Baños

San Antonio de los Baños is worth a short visit rather than a long stay, mainly for the Museo del Humor and the Ariguanabo River. It sits about 35 to 45 km from Havana, roughly 1 to 1.5 hours by shared taxi at US$2 to 5. Pair it with the film school area if you have permission, and expect a quiet, local atmosphere with little nightlife.
San Antonio de los Baños needs one full day, or one night if you want slow evenings by the river. Allow about 3 to 4 hours for the museum, the park and street murals. Add a second day for Artemisa or Soroa, where entry costs around US$3 to 5.
Yes, San Antonio de los Baños works well as a day trip from Havana, about 1 to 1.5 hours each way by colectivo for US$2 to 5. Leave by 8 a.m. so you can get a return seat in the afternoon. A day covers the museum, a river stroll and lunch for about US$20 to 30 in total.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Cuban towns near San Antonio de los Baños

Explore more nearby:

  • Bauta—Baracoa River, evening square, old rail station, farmers' market| 11 km away
  • Bejucal—Colonial portals, Holy Week, domino slaps| 12 km away
  • Alquízar—Farm town, guarapo stands, tobacco fields, quiet streets| 13 km away

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We 💚 feedbackIs it worth it?

San Antonio de los Baños deserves one full day, or two nights if you want to slow down and swim in the river. I would skip a rushed half-day and arrive early for the museum. Bring small bills and book your ride back to Havana the day before.

✈️ When did I visit Cuba?
As part of my 1.5 year travel around the world trip, I visited Cuba for 6 weeks in February, March 2016, being extremely lucky that that coincided with the free concert of The Rolling Stones.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Cuba, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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