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Ecuador🇪🇨 | festivalsDiablada PillareñaHorned devil masks, Píllaro plaza, brass comparsas, January 1 to 6 | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Diablada Pillareña
👌 Worth visitingfestival ranked #13
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

A vendor in Píllaro’s plaza handed me a paper cone of hornado and said, “Eat first, the devils don’t wait.” Ten minutes later hundreds of masked dancers swept past. Diablada Pillareña fills the streets of Píllaro, in the Andean highlands of central Ecuador, north of Ambato, from January 1 to 6. Expect brass bands, horned masks and a crowd of locals, with few foreign visitors. Entry is free. Arrive early, eat in the market, then follow the comparsas through the center until the crowd pulls you in.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #13 festival in EcuadorWhy Diablada Pillareña should be on your travel list

Diablada Pillareña draws travelers who want a festival that belongs to its town, not to a ticket office. Each of the six days belongs to different groups of dancers, and the devils in horned masks, with guarichas, capariches and parejas de línea, parade through the central streets with bands and jokes at the crowd’s expense. The whole point is rowdy neighborhood pride, and you can feel it from the first drum. It also fits an Ecuador route neatly because it opens the year, right after New Year’s, when the highlands are already in party mode. With January 1 to 6 as the fixed window, you can slot it between Quito and Baños without much planning. Costs stay low next to bigger Andean carnivals, and locals will happily explain which masks are which.

💡 HighlightsThe experiences that define the visit

  1. The Devil Parades in the Central Plaza: The signature sight, with dancers in huge horned masks, capes and bright costumes whirling to brass bands through the town center.
  2. The Opening Procession of the Partidas: The first day brings the loudest, most densely packed march, as neighborhood groups claim their route and show off new masks.
  3. Handmade Masks and Costumes: Look closely at the horns, painted faces and fabric work. Many are made by the dancers themselves and passed down within families.
  4. Comparsas and Their Bands: Each group arrives with its own musicians playing fast pasacalles. Following one group through side streets gives you the best view of the dancing.
  5. Street Food Around the Market: Hornado, fritada and hot canelazo are sold near the plaza, and stopping here between parades is as much
… read more 👉
  1. The Devil Parades in the Central Plaza: The signature sight, with dancers in huge horned masks, capes and bright costumes whirling to brass bands through the town center.
  2. The Opening Procession of the Partidas: The first day brings the loudest, most densely packed march, as neighborhood groups claim their route and show off new masks.
  3. Handmade Masks and Costumes: Look closely at the horns, painted faces and fabric work. Many are made by the dancers themselves and passed down within families.
  4. Comparsas and Their Bands: Each group arrives with its own musicians playing fast pasacalles. Following one group through side streets gives you the best view of the dancing.
  5. Street Food Around the Market: Hornado, fritada and hot canelazo are sold near the plaza, and stopping here between parades is as much part of the day as the dancing.
The plaza parades and the market food make an easy pairing: watch the dancers in the morning, then eat at the stalls before the afternoon groups arrive.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

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🌤️ When to go?When is the celebration of Diablada Pillareña?

Diablada Pillareña runs from January 1 to 6 every year in the town of Píllaro, in Tungurahua province, with the main parades in the central streets around Parque Central.
  • Best day: January 1 opens with the first wave of costumed devils, and January 5 and 6 bring the biggest crowds and the loudest bands.
  • Weather: Expect 8 to 18°C (46 to 64°F) at about 2,800 meters, with sudden showers and cold nights. Bring a rain jacket, layers and a scarf.
  • Booking: Reserve beds by early December. Prices in Píllaro and nearby Ambato can rise 30 to 100 percent.
  • Crowds: Buses from Ambato fill by midday, so arrive before 10 a.m. and leave before the evening rush.
Sleep in Ambato and go early each day, since the drive back is easy but slow after dark.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: not recommended for travelingFEBFebruary: not recommended for travelingMARMarch: not recommended for travelingAPRApril: not recommended for travelingMAYMay: not recommended for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: not recommended for travelingAUGAugust: not recommended for travelingSEPSeptember: not recommended for travelingOCTOctober: not recommended for travelingNOVNovember: not recommended for travelingDECDecember: not recommended for traveling

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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas and accommodation options

Ambato is the smartest base for Diablada Pillareña, since it sits roughly 45 minutes to an hour away by bus and has far more beds than Píllaro itself. The city center around Parque Montalvo and the Mercado Central area has the most budget options, lively evening streets and frequent buses from the terminal, so it feels safe and sociable enough for solo travelers. Stay within a few blocks of the main plazas and avoid walking the outskirts late at night. Staying in Píllaro itself puts you in the middle of the parades, and a handful of simple guesthouses near the central park fill up months ahead, … read more 👉
Ambato is the smartest base for Diablada Pillareña, since it sits roughly 45 minutes to an hour away by bus and has far more beds than Píllaro itself. The city center around Parque Montalvo and the Mercado Central area has the most budget options, lively evening streets and frequent buses from the terminal, so it feels safe and sociable enough for solo travelers. Stay within a few blocks of the main plazas and avoid walking the outskirts late at night. Staying in Píllaro itself puts you in the middle of the parades, and a handful of simple guesthouses near the central park fill up months ahead, so book very early if you want that. Some travelers also use Quito, about two and a half to three hours away, but the long commute wears thin over several days. Ambato gives you the best mix of price, safety and company.
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👛 Costs (as of 19 October 2026)What things cost and how to budget

Expect to spend about US$48 a day at Diablada Pillareña, with Ambato as your base.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUS$0The street parades are free to watch.
AccommodationUS$18 to 35Dorm or basic room in Ambato; prices jump during January 1 to 6.
Local transportUS$3 to 6Return bus Ambato to Píllaro costs about US$1 to 2 each way, plus local rides.
Food & drinksUS$10 to 18Fritada plates, canelazo and market lunches.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$5 to 10Rain poncho, snacks, tips, mask souvenirs.
Total Daily BudgetUS$48Based on high season accommodation.


source: ecuador.travel
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🍲 FoodLocal Flavors for Backpackers

The street around the parades smells of fritada (fried pork with hominy, plantain and mote), and stalls sell it by the plate for roughly US$3 to 5. Look for hornado, roast pork with llapingachos (potato patties), and cuy (guinea pig) if you want the full Andean experience, usually priced at US$12 to 20 for a whole one.

Warm drinks matter in the cold mornings. Try canelazo, a cinnamon and sugarcane spirit punch, at about US$1 to 2 a cup, and fresh colada morada or hot chocolate with bread. Local chicha is also poured at some stalls.

Carry cash in small bills, because stalls rarely take cards and change for US$20 notes runs out fast. Lines move quickly, portions are generous, and sharing a plate is normal. Dancers and locals often hand drinks around, so accept a sip with a smile.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Diablada Pillareña takes place every year from January 1 to 6 in Píllaro, in Tungurahua province. The dates are fixed, so you can plan around them well ahead. The biggest crowds gather on January 5 and 6, and the town is about an hour from Ambato by bus.
Watching Diablada Pillareña costs nothing, since the street parades are free. Most travelers spend about US$40 to 60 a day, mainly on beds in Ambato at US$18 to 35 and food at US$10 to 18. A bus from Ambato costs roughly US$1 to 2 each way.
No tickets are needed for Diablada Pillareña, because the parades happen in the public streets. What you do need in advance is a bed, which should be booked by early December for January 1 to 6. Arrive from Ambato before 10 a.m. to find a good viewing spot.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

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We 💚 feedbackWhat to keep in mind

Diablada Pillareña works best as the opening stop of a January loop, with Quito before it and Baños or Cotopaxi after. The crowds can be rough, so I’d wear sturdy shoes and keep your bag in front.

✈️ When did I visit Ecuador?
Ecuador I visited during my half year trip through South and Central America back in 2003

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Ecuador, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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