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Ecuador🇪🇨 | townsZarumaGold mine tunnels, leaning wooden balconies, Zaruma coffee, Carmen church | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Zaruma
👌 Worth visitingtown ranked #12
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

Zaruma’s hillside streets are built over an old gold mine, and the tunnels under town still shift the ground, which is why some wooden balconies lean. You’ll find it in the south of Ecuador, in El Oro province, high in the Andean foothills. Buses climb here from Piñas and Machala, so skip rushing and plan to arrive before dark. A driver told me to order coffee at the plaza before anything else, and he was right: Zaruma grows excellent beans, and the café scene is where you meet people. Evenings are quiet, hostels are few, and conversations come easily. Wander up the steep lanes to the church of the Virgin of Carmen and its tiled views.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #12 town in Ecuador
Reasons people choose to visit here

Zaruma works best as a two- or three-night pause for slow travelers who like towns with texture and a place to be still. The steep center is compact, so you walk everywhere, and the wooden heritage houses with their carved balconies make every corner worth a photo. The real draw is the coffee culture: local farms grow beans on the surrounding slopes, and cafés serve them fresh, so tasting is simple and cheap. Underneath, the mining tunnels give the town its backstory, and a guided visit explains why the streets bend as they do. Nightlife is minimal, so couples, solo travelers and small groups who prefer conversation over clubs will be happiest. If you need hostels packed with backpackers, look elsewhere.

💡 HighlightsThe experiences that define the visit

  1. Mining Museum and Mina el Sexmo: The town’s defining sight is the gold-mining tunnel beneath its streets, entered with a guide who explains how generations dug under the houses. Go in the morning when groups are small. Expect about US$3 to 5 and 1 hour.
  2. Plaza de la Independencia: The main plaza is framed by wooden buildings and a clipped hedge garden, with benches for watching local life. Late afternoon is best. Free, 30 to 45 minutes.
  3. Iglesia Matriz de Nuestra Señora del Carmen: This hillside church overlooks the whole town and its tile roofs. Visit in the early evening when it is open and the town below glows. Free, about 30 minutes.
  4. Hilltop viewpoints: A short walk or ride up gives the widest panorama over the valley and rooftops. Go early on a clear morning. Free or nominal cost, about 1
… read more 👉
  1. Mining Museum and Mina el Sexmo: The town’s defining sight is the gold-mining tunnel beneath its streets, entered with a guide who explains how generations dug under the houses. Go in the morning when groups are small. Expect about US$3 to 5 and 1 hour.
  2. Plaza de la Independencia: The main plaza is framed by wooden buildings and a clipped hedge garden, with benches for watching local life. Late afternoon is best. Free, 30 to 45 minutes.
  3. Iglesia Matriz de Nuestra Señora del Carmen: This hillside church overlooks the whole town and its tile roofs. Visit in the early evening when it is open and the town below glows. Free, about 30 minutes.
  4. Hilltop viewpoints: A short walk or ride up gives the widest panorama over the valley and rooftops. Go early on a clear morning. Free or nominal cost, about 1 hour.
  5. Coffee tasting at a local cafe: Zaruma coffee is the best-known local product, and tasting a cup brewed from nearby farms is a cheap pleasure. Mornings suit it. Expect US$1 to 3 a cup and about 45 minutes.
Nearby, Piñas, Portovelo and the Bosque Petrificado de Puyango make easy day trips from Zaruma. Pair the church with the viewpoint in a single late-afternoon walk.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near Zaruma

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🏘️ NeighborhoodsKey areas and districts to know

Zaruma is a steep mining town of wooden balconies, and you explore it on foot, uphill, in short bursts. Pace yourself: the slopes are the reason the center is compact, so start high and drift down.
  • Parque Central and Calle Sucre: The heart of town, where the cream-and-blue wooden church (Iglesia Matriz) stands over the plaza. Colonial wooden houses crowd the lanes because the whole center is protected heritage, so go early, before the tour vans arrive, and grab a strong coffee from a local grower at a nearby café.
  • Hillside miradores: Viewpoints above the roofs, a 10 to 15 minute climb. Locals go at dusk when the valley cools, and you should too, with water in hand.
  • Mining quarter near the Museo Municipal: Old mine heritage lives here, and the guided mine visits start nearby. Ask at the municipal
… read more 👉
Zaruma is a steep mining town of wooden balconies, and you explore it on foot, uphill, in short bursts. Pace yourself: the slopes are the reason the center is compact, so start high and drift down.
  • Parque Central and Calle Sucre: The heart of town, where the cream-and-blue wooden church (Iglesia Matriz) stands over the plaza. Colonial wooden houses crowd the lanes because the whole center is protected heritage, so go early, before the tour vans arrive, and grab a strong coffee from a local grower at a nearby café.
  • Hillside miradores: Viewpoints above the roofs, a 10 to 15 minute climb. Locals go at dusk when the valley cools, and you should too, with water in hand.
  • Mining quarter near the Museo Municipal: Old mine heritage lives here, and the guided mine visits start nearby. Ask at the municipal tourist office for the tour schedule instead of turning up and hoping.
  • Lower town and market area: Cheap lunches of tigrillo (mashed plantain with egg and cheese) and the town’s famous coffee. Nightlife is quiet, a few bars on weekends, so eat early and stroll the lit plaza.

⌛️ 1 dayHow to make the most of one day

8:00 AM, Parque Central: Start with a coffee and a pastry beside the plaza, watching shopkeepers open wooden shutters. Then walk uphill along the old streets to see the carved balconies up close.
9:30 AM, Mining Museum and tunnel: Join the guided tour of the mine under town to understand why the houses lean and where the gold came from. It takes about an hour, and the underground chill is a welcome change.
11:30 AM, Iglesia del Carmen: A short climb leads to the church, where the view over tile roofs rewards the effort. Step inside if it’s open.
1:00 PM, Lunch: Sit down for a plate of local tigrillo or a bowl of repe at a family-run eatery near the plaza.
3:00 PM, Hilltop viewpoint: Walk or take a short taxi up for the valley panorama, then linger as the afternoon softens.
5:00 PM, Coffee farm … read more 👉
8:00 AM, Parque Central: Start with a coffee and a pastry beside the plaza, watching shopkeepers open wooden shutters. Then walk uphill along the old streets to see the carved balconies up close.
9:30 AM, Mining Museum and tunnel: Join the guided tour of the mine under town to understand why the houses lean and where the gold came from. It takes about an hour, and the underground chill is a welcome change.
11:30 AM, Iglesia del Carmen: A short climb leads to the church, where the view over tile roofs rewards the effort. Step inside if it’s open.
1:00 PM, Lunch: Sit down for a plate of local tigrillo or a bowl of repe at a family-run eatery near the plaza.
3:00 PM, Hilltop viewpoint: Walk or take a short taxi up for the valley panorama, then linger as the afternoon softens.
5:00 PM, Coffee farm or roaster: Off the standard path, visit a small local roaster on the edge of town to taste beans grown on nearby slopes and talk with the producer.
7:00 PM, Plaza: Finish with a quiet evening on a bench, a hot drink in hand.

🌤️ When to go?When to go for the best experience

Zaruma sits at about 1,200 meters, so temperatures stay mild all year, roughly 18 to 26°C (64 to 79°F).
  • Dry Season (June to November): Cooler nights, firmer paths for the mine and viewpoint walks, and clear mountain views. Local fiestas and weekends bring Ecuadorian visitors, so rooms tighten slightly.
  • Wet Season (December to May): Warm, with afternoon downpours and frequent fog on the ridge. Slopes turn slick, but crowds thin and prices stay flat.
  • Daylight: About 12 hours every month, with darkness falling early and quickly.
  • Fiestas: The July festivities for the Virgen del Carmen, peaking on July 16, draw big weekend crowds.
Book ahead for long weekends and national holidays, when rooms fill.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: fair for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
ecuador-city-zaruma
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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas and accommodation options

The best area for a budget bed is within a few blocks of Parque Central, where small family guesthouses and a handful of simple hostels cluster. Dorm beds are scarce in Zaruma, so expect private rooms with shared or private bathrooms instead. You are within walking distance of restaurants, the bus stop and the main viewpoints, and the streets are quiet and well lit after dark. Weekend noise from plaza gatherings is mild and fades by midnight. Book ahead on holiday weekends and during the July fiestas.
A second option is the lower town near the market and bus terminal. Rooms here tend to be a little … read more 👉
The best area for a budget bed is within a few blocks of Parque Central, where small family guesthouses and a handful of simple hostels cluster. Dorm beds are scarce in Zaruma, so expect private rooms with shared or private bathrooms instead. You are within walking distance of restaurants, the bus stop and the main viewpoints, and the streets are quiet and well lit after dark. Weekend noise from plaza gatherings is mild and fades by midnight. Book ahead on holiday weekends and during the July fiestas.
A second option is the lower town near the market and bus terminal. Rooms here tend to be a little cheaper and easier to reach if you arrive late with a pack, but you face a steep climb to the plaza. Traffic and early market activity make mornings louder. Choose the center if you want evening strolls, and the lower town if early departures matter.

🚌 Getting aroundGetting around like a local

A local taxi ride within Zaruma costs about US$1 to 2, paid in cash, and a flat fare is usually settled before you climb in. Streets are steep, narrow and often one-way, so walking is faster than any vehicle in the center, and public transport is limited to buses and shared pickups. Carry small bills, because drivers rarely have change for US$20.
  • Walking: Free and the best option, since the center is compact and cars struggle on the slopes. Wear shoes with grip, because wet cobbles and wooden steps get slick, and take the climbs slowly in the afternoon heat.
  • Taxi: US$1 to 2 in town, US$3 to 5 to nearby spots such as Portovelo. Taxis wait around the plaza, and the experienced move is to pre-agree the fare, since few use meters.
  • Pickup trucks (camionetas): US$0.50 to 2 for short hops to outlying
… read more 👉
A local taxi ride within Zaruma costs about US$1 to 2, paid in cash, and a flat fare is usually settled before you climb in. Streets are steep, narrow and often one-way, so walking is faster than any vehicle in the center, and public transport is limited to buses and shared pickups. Carry small bills, because drivers rarely have change for US$20.
  • Walking: Free and the best option, since the center is compact and cars struggle on the slopes. Wear shoes with grip, because wet cobbles and wooden steps get slick, and take the climbs slowly in the afternoon heat.
  • Taxi: US$1 to 2 in town, US$3 to 5 to nearby spots such as Portovelo. Taxis wait around the plaza, and the experienced move is to pre-agree the fare, since few use meters.
  • Pickup trucks (camionetas): US$0.50 to 2 for short hops to outlying communities. They run on demand rather than a timetable, so ask the driver when the last one comes back.
  • Intercity bus: Buses to Piñas, Machala and Loja cost roughly US$2 to 8, taking 1 to 4 hours, from the terminal on the town edge. Services thin out after dusk, so travel by mid-afternoon. Arrive early on weekends, when seats go fast.

👛 Costs (as of 19 October 2026)Money, prices, and spending tips

Zaruma costs about US$25 to 52 a day for a backpacker, with a Total Daily Budget of US$38 at high-season rates.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$10 to 15Dorms are rare, so expect a simple private room with a shared bath for about US$12 (high season).
MealsUS$8 to 14Set almuerzos cost US$2.50 to 4, and dinner at a simple restaurant US$4 to 7.
Local transportUS$2 to 6Taxis cost US$1 to 2 in town and pickups US$0.50 to 2.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$3 to 12Museum and mine visits cost a few dollars each, and coffee farm tours US$5 to 15.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$2 to 5Snacks, water, coffee and the odd tip.
Total Daily BudgetUS$25 to 52About US$38 for a typical day: US$12 + US$11 + US$4 + US$7 + US$4.
Eat the set almuerzo at lunch, the cheapest big meal of the day.

source: ecuador.travel
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsShort trips worth adding

Zaruma works well as a base for easy day trips, because the surrounding mining and farming valleys are all within about an hour by taxi or bus.
Portovelo: Portovelo is the gold-mining twin town on the river below, about 20 to 30 minutes away. Come for the old mining history and the riverside lunches. Return transport costs US$2 to 6, and first-timers often leave it too late to catch a ride back. Go any dry-season morning.

Piñas and Buenaventura Reserve: Piñas is a cooler highland town about 45 minutes to 1 hour away, with the cloud-forest Buenaventura Reserve beyond it, known for hummingbirds and rare birds. Budget US$10 to 25 with buses, a pickup and the entry fee. Start early, since mist rolls in by midday, and check the route before you go.

Coffee farms around Zaruma: Small family farms … read more 👉
Zaruma works well as a base for easy day trips, because the surrounding mining and farming valleys are all within about an hour by taxi or bus.
Portovelo: Portovelo is the gold-mining twin town on the river below, about 20 to 30 minutes away. Come for the old mining history and the riverside lunches. Return transport costs US$2 to 6, and first-timers often leave it too late to catch a ride back. Go any dry-season morning.

Piñas and Buenaventura Reserve: Piñas is a cooler highland town about 45 minutes to 1 hour away, with the cloud-forest Buenaventura Reserve beyond it, known for hummingbirds and rare birds. Budget US$10 to 25 with buses, a pickup and the entry fee. Start early, since mist rolls in by midday, and check the route before you go.

Coffee farms around Zaruma: Small family farms on the slopes show the process from picking to roasting, usually within 20 to 40 minutes by taxi. Tours cost about US$5 to 15. Harvest runs roughly from May to September, when the roasting smell hangs over the lanes. Call ahead, since many farms only receive visitors by arrangement.

🛡️ SafetyStaying Safe: What Travelers Should Know

Zaruma is a calm, small town where violent crime against visitors is rare, and walking the lit center at night is normal. Take the usual care with phones and bags in the market and on crowded weekends. Solo travelers, including women, generally report no trouble, though quiet side streets after 10 pm are better skipped in favor of a taxi. The real annoyances are physical: steep, slippery cobbles in the rain, and old wooden steps with uneven boards. Mine visits should only be done with an authorized guide, because some old tunnels are unstable. Taxi fares are rarely metered, so agree the price first.

FAQFrequently asked questions about Zaruma

Zaruma is well worth a visit rather than a simple stopover, thanks to its protected wooden colonial center, mine heritage and mountain coffee. The viewpoints and old houses can be seen in a day, while the surrounding farms and the Buenaventura Reserve add more. Expect to spend about US$30 to 45 a day.
Two days is enough for Zaruma, and three works if you add the Buenaventura Reserve near Piñas or a coffee farm tour. Day one covers Parque Central, the church, the museum and the mirador, and day two can take in Portovelo and a mine visit. Bus rides to nearby towns take 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Yes, Zaruma can be reached as a day trip from Machala, roughly 2.5 to 3 hours each way by bus at US$3 to 5, but that leaves little time on the ground. Loja is farther, about 4 hours by road. Staying one night lets you catch the viewpoints at dusk and the coffee at breakfast.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Ecuadorian towns near Zaruma

Explore more nearby:

  • Vilcabamba—Mandango ridge hike, horseback valleys, hammock cafés, Saturday market| 77 km away
  • Alausí—Devil’s Nose switchbacks, gorge-side station, San Pedro lookout| 186 km away
  • Puerto López—Humpback season, fishing boats, Salango museum, malecón grills| 272 km away

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We 💚 feedbackKey takeaways before you go

Zaruma’s mistake is treating it as a quick photo stop from the lowlands, then leaving before the evening, when the lanes empty and the lamps come on. Stay at least one night. I would bring a light jacket, buy beans from a local roaster, and let the slow pace do its work.

✈️ When did I visit Ecuador?
Ecuador I visited during my half year trip through South and Central America back in 2003

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Ecuador, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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