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Ethiopia🇪🇹 | festivalsGenaChristmas in Lalibela, Genna game, all-night vigil, sistrum rhythms | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Gena
🌟 Highlightfestival ranked #5
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Gena rewards early planning: the festival packs a full pilgrimage into a few days, so one ticket and a bed booked months ahead cover everything. It happens in Lalibela, in the Amhara highlands in the north of Ethiopia, where eleven rock-hewn churches serve as the stage for the Ethiopian Orthodox Christmas, celebrated on 7 January. Expect chanting rather than headliners: white-robed pilgrims by the thousands, priests in embroidered capes, and an all-night vigil. I still connect the place with the sound of a sistrum rattling against a slow drum somewhere in the dark, with a deacon’s voice cracking over it, while woodsmoke and frankincense drifted through the trenches. It suits curious travelers who don’t mind crowds and rough sleeping options. Dawn finds worshippers sitting shoulder to shoulder on the red tuff ledges above Bete Giyorgis, wrapped in cotton shawls.

Discover everything you want to know in the 📖 Ethiopia Travel Guide.
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The current risk level for Ethiopia is high. Check the advice before going.


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✨ Why go?
Ranked #5 festival in EthiopiaReasons people choose to celebrate the here

Gena is one of the few festivals where you join a living ritual rather than watch a staged one. Backpackers route around it for the all-night Christmas Eve vigil, when pilgrims walk in from villages across the Lasta mountains and camp wherever the ground allows. Strangers share bread, coffee and a patch of ledge, and invitations to join a circle come easily if you greet people with a handshake and a few words of Amharic. The second draw is access. For one week the churches are used the way they were designed, as working places of worship with priests in full ceremonial dress, not as museum rooms. That gives you a view of Ethiopian Christianity that ordinary days can’t match. It also pairs well with a northern circuit through Gondar, Axum and the Simien foothills, since Lalibela sits comfortably … read more 👉
Gena is one of the few festivals where you join a living ritual rather than watch a staged one. Backpackers route around it for the all-night Christmas Eve vigil, when pilgrims walk in from villages across the Lasta mountains and camp wherever the ground allows. Strangers share bread, coffee and a patch of ledge, and invitations to join a circle come easily if you greet people with a handshake and a few words of Amharic. The second draw is access. For one week the churches are used the way they were designed, as working places of worship with priests in full ceremonial dress, not as museum rooms. That gives you a view of Ethiopian Christianity that ordinary days can’t match. It also pairs well with a northern circuit through Gondar, Axum and the Simien foothills, since Lalibela sits comfortably between them. Prices rise for beds and flights, yet you spend most of the festival outdoors, which keeps daily costs modest compared with Western festivals of this scale.

💡 HighlightsThe experiences that define the visit

  1. Bete Giyorgis (Church of St. George): the cross-shaped church cut down into a pit, the image on every Lalibela postcard. On Gena, priests and pilgrims fill its trench, and the roof edge becomes a viewing balcony at first light. The complex ticket costs about US$50.
  2. Christmas Eve vigil: from dusk, worshippers in white shammas circle the churches with candles, chanting and praying through the night. Coffee sellers work the corners. You can sit quietly on a ledge and listen for hours.
  3. Bete Medhane Alem: said to be the largest monolithic church in the world, ringed by thick stone pillars. During the festival it holds some of the longest services, with the sistrum and prayer sticks keeping the beat.
  4. The Genna game: a field game resembling hockey, played with a curved stick and a ball, which locals
… read more 👉
  1. Bete Giyorgis (Church of St. George): the cross-shaped church cut down into a pit, the image on every Lalibela postcard. On Gena, priests and pilgrims fill its trench, and the roof edge becomes a viewing balcony at first light. The complex ticket costs about US$50.
  2. Christmas Eve vigil: from dusk, worshippers in white shammas circle the churches with candles, chanting and praying through the night. Coffee sellers work the corners. You can sit quietly on a ledge and listen for hours.
  3. Bete Medhane Alem: said to be the largest monolithic church in the world, ringed by thick stone pillars. During the festival it holds some of the longest services, with the sistrum and prayer sticks keeping the beat.
  4. The Genna game: a field game resembling hockey, played with a curved stick and a ball, which locals link to Christmas. Teams of young men from the surrounding villages play on open ground, with spectators crowding the sidelines.
  5. Bete Maryam: the northern cluster’s oldest and most intimate church, painted inside and carved with Star of David motifs. Pilgrims come here to touch the walls and kiss the doorframes, so you see devotion at close range.
Gena requires the Lalibela complex ticket for entry to the churches, and flights and rooms should be booked well ahead.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do around Gena

Tour 11 monolithic rock churches & museum in Lalibela & cave church with mummies

Tour 11 monolithic rock churches & museum in Lalibela & cave church with mummies

5.0(58) 48h
From €322
per personViator
Visiting churches of lalibela

Visiting churches of lalibela

4.9(46) 24h
From €168
per personViator
Lalibela churches , church museum & Yemrehan kirstose ( cave church)

Lalibela churches , church museum & Yemrehan kirstose ( cave church)

4.9(26)
From €371
per personViator
Day Trip to Rock Hewn Churches of Lalibela

Day Trip to Rock Hewn Churches of Lalibela

5.0(23) 6h
From €45
per personViator
2 Days 1 night tour to Lalibela Rock-hewn churches

2 Days 1 night tour to Lalibela Rock-hewn churches

5.0(22) 48h
From €350
per personViator
Private Guided Tour in Lalibela Ethiopia

Private Guided Tour in Lalibela Ethiopia

4.9(23)
From €181
per personViator
Lalibela Rock Churches Guided Tour

Lalibela Rock Churches Guided Tour

4.9(16)
From €210
per personViator
Walking tours

Walking tours

4.9(11)
From €23
per personViator
Full Day Tour To The 11 Rock Hewn Churches Of Lalibela

Full Day Tour To The 11 Rock Hewn Churches Of Lalibela

5.0(9) 10h
From €70
per personViator
Lalibela Churches Day Tour

Lalibela Churches Day Tour

5.0(8)
From €199
per personViator

Ratings based on Tripadvisor reviews. When you book through this link, you support our work at no extra cost to you.

🌤️ When to go?When is the celebration of Gena?

Gena is celebrated on 29 Tahsas in the Ethiopian calendar, which usually falls on January 7 (January 8 in a leap-year cycle), and the festival runs about one day, with the main hurling match played in the open fields of Lalibela and across the Lasta highlands.
  • Best day: Christmas morning itself. Church services begin before dawn in the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, and the ceremonial gena stick game follows in the afternoon.
  • Weather: Cool dry-season mornings around 8 to 12°C (46 to 54°F), warming to 22 to 26°C (72 to 79°F) by afternoon, with almost no rain. Bring a warm layer, a white cotton shawl (netela) to wear, and sturdy shoes for stone floors you walk barefoot or in socks.
  • Booking: Reserve a bed 2 to 3 months ahead. Prices commonly rise 50 to 100 percent around January 6 to 8, and flights
… read more 👉
Gena is celebrated on 29 Tahsas in the Ethiopian calendar, which usually falls on January 7 (January 8 in a leap-year cycle), and the festival runs about one day, with the main hurling match played in the open fields of Lalibela and across the Lasta highlands.
  • Best day: Christmas morning itself. Church services begin before dawn in the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, and the ceremonial gena stick game follows in the afternoon.
  • Weather: Cool dry-season mornings around 8 to 12°C (46 to 54°F), warming to 22 to 26°C (72 to 79°F) by afternoon, with almost no rain. Bring a warm layer, a white cotton shawl (netela) to wear, and sturdy shoes for stone floors you walk barefoot or in socks.
  • Booking: Reserve a bed 2 to 3 months ahead. Prices commonly rise 50 to 100 percent around January 6 to 8, and flights to Lalibela sell out.
  • Crowds: Arrive by January 5 or 6. Roads fill with pilgrims on foot and in buses, so leave on January 9 rather than the 8th.
Book your return transport before you arrive, since seats thin out fast after the celebration.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: not recommended for travelingMARMarch: not recommended for travelingAPRApril: not recommended for travelingMAYMay: not recommended for travelingJUNJune: not recommended for travelingJULJuly: not recommended for travelingAUGAugust: not recommended for travelingSEPSeptember: not recommended for travelingOCTOctober: not recommended for travelingNOVNovember: not recommended for travelingDECDecember: not recommended for traveling

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🛏️ Where to stay?Where staying makes the most sense

The best base for Gena is Lalibela town, where most travelers sleep within walking distance of the rock-hewn churches. Within it, the streets around the main road and the area near the northwestern church cluster suit backpackers best. Guesthouses and small budget lodgings here are close to the midnight and dawn services, so you can walk to the churches in the dark without arranging transport, and the lanes stay busy with pilgrims, which makes them feel safe for solo travelers.

The upper part of town, near the Bete Giyorgis side, is quieter and has a more local feel, with family-run places where … read more 👉
The best base for Gena is Lalibela town, where most travelers sleep within walking distance of the rock-hewn churches. Within it, the streets around the main road and the area near the northwestern church cluster suit backpackers best. Guesthouses and small budget lodgings here are close to the midnight and dawn services, so you can walk to the churches in the dark without arranging transport, and the lanes stay busy with pilgrims, which makes them feel safe for solo travelers.

The upper part of town, near the Bete Giyorgis side, is quieter and has a more local feel, with family-run places where you will often share breakfast with other travelers. It is a steeper walk, but views over the valley are good and rooms there tend to cost less.

Rooftop cafes along the main street are where solo travelers meet, swap guide contacts and share rides to nearby monasteries. Expect to find dorm-style or shared rooms scarce during the festival, so be flexible and consider sharing a double with another traveler. Some local families also rent spare rooms during the holiday, which can be a warm way to see the celebration from inside. Keep valuables close in crowds, and walk with a flashlight at night, since street lighting is patchy.
Best hostels in Ethiopia


Best quality hotels in Ethiopia

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)Typical daily expenses

A realistic budget for Gena is about US$55 to 85 per day, with accommodation the item that swells most around the January holiday.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUS$0 to 50The celebration is free to watch. Visiting Lalibela's rock-hewn churches requires a ticket of about US$50 for foreigners, valid for several days.
AccommodationUS$20 to 40Basic guesthouse rooms cost about US$10 to 20 normally and rise sharply in the holiday week. Shared rooms help.
Local transportUS$2 to 6Lalibela is walkable. Three-wheeled bajaj rides cost about US$0.50 to 2 for short hops, more during the festival.
Food & drinksUS$8 to 15Local meals of injera with stew cost about US$2 to 5. Tella and tej are cheap, and coffee is under US$1.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$5 to 15A netela shawl, tips for church guides,
… read more 👉
A realistic budget for Gena is about US$55 to 85 per day, with accommodation the item that swells most around the January holiday.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUS$0 to 50The celebration is free to watch. Visiting Lalibela's rock-hewn churches requires a ticket of about US$50 for foreigners, valid for several days.
AccommodationUS$20 to 40Basic guesthouse rooms cost about US$10 to 20 normally and rise sharply in the holiday week. Shared rooms help.
Local transportUS$2 to 6Lalibela is walkable. Three-wheeled bajaj rides cost about US$0.50 to 2 for short hops, more during the festival.
Food & drinksUS$8 to 15Local meals of injera with stew cost about US$2 to 5. Tella and tej are cheap, and coffee is under US$1.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$5 to 15A netela shawl, tips for church guides, bottled water and small donations. Paying in cash is the norm.
Total Daily BudgetUS$85Lower if you skip the church ticket after the first day of visiting, higher with a private guide.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🍲 FoodLocal Cuisine & Drinks

Gena food is built around the end of the 43-day Advent fast, so the first meal after the dawn service is the main event. Families break the fast with doro wat, chicken stewed with plenty of berbere and a hard-boiled egg, served on large shared plates of injera. If you are invited into a home, accept. It is the most authentic meal of the trip.

In town, restaurants and tea houses fill their menus with tibs (sautéed beef or lamb), shiro and firfir. Meat is the star after weeks of fasting, so expect crowds and slow service. Order early and be patient.

Drinks matter just as much. Try tella, a cloudy home-brewed barley beer, and tej, honey wine served in round flasks called berele. Strong buna comes from a coffee ceremony, where the first of three rounds is poured with popcorn on the side.

A … read more 👉
Gena food is built around the end of the 43-day Advent fast, so the first meal after the dawn service is the main event. Families break the fast with doro wat, chicken stewed with plenty of berbere and a hard-boiled egg, served on large shared plates of injera. If you are invited into a home, accept. It is the most authentic meal of the trip.

In town, restaurants and tea houses fill their menus with tibs (sautéed beef or lamb), shiro and firfir. Meat is the star after weeks of fasting, so expect crowds and slow service. Order early and be patient.

Drinks matter just as much. Try tella, a cloudy home-brewed barley beer, and tej, honey wine served in round flasks called berele. Strong buna comes from a coffee ceremony, where the first of three rounds is poured with popcorn on the side.

A few quirks help. Eat with your right hand only. Hosts may feed you a gursha, a hand-rolled bite placed in your mouth, which is a sign of respect. Pay in cash, since cards are rare, and carry small notes. Portions are generous and meant for sharing, so go with others and order one platter between you.

FAQFrequently asked questions about Gena

Gena is celebrated on 29 Tahsas in the Ethiopian calendar, which usually falls on January 7. The main focus is Lalibela, where the dawn services begin on the night of January 6. Most travelers arrive by January 5 and stay through January 8 to see the full holiday.
Watching Gena is free, but you will pay for the surroundings. A foreigner ticket to the Lalibela churches is about US$50, and rooms rise sharply, often to US$20 to 40 a night. Budget about US$55 to 85 a day including food and local rides.
You do not need a ticket for the services or the street celebrations, which are open to everyone. The church entry ticket can be bought on arrival in Lalibela, though the real advance need is a bed and a flight. Book both 2 to 3 months before January 7, since flights and guesthouses fill up.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Ethiopian festivals near Gena

Explore more nearby:

  • Timkat—Epiphany processions, tabot parades, mass river baptisms| 185 km away
  • Hidar Tsion—Axum pilgrimage, St. Mary of Zion, Orthodox liturgy| 236 km away
  • Meskel—bonfire ceremony, cross discovery, Demera procession| 337 km away

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We 💚 feedbackWhat to keep in mind

Gena works best if you stay awake through Christmas Eve and stay on for the dawn services, when the chanting is loudest and the crowds are calmest. I would bring earplugs for your bed, a warm layer for the night vigil, and a headlamp for the uneven trenches. Skip day-tripping and sleep nearby.

✈️ When did I visit Ethiopia?
Ethiopia I visited back in October 2017. I combined the trip with a visit to Sudan. Ethiopia was a pure surprise with the magical scenery like the Danakil Depression and the Simien Mountains.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Ethiopia, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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