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Ethiopia🇪🇹 | festivalsHidar TsionMary of Zion, Axum pilgrimage, Tabot procession, stelae field | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Hidar Tsion
👀 For curious travelersfestival ranked #11
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Hidar Tsion is the festival of Mary of Zion, held in Axum, and travelers often assume it is a general city holiday when it is actually the church’s main annual pilgrimage. Axum sits in the north of Ethiopia, in Tigray, and the celebration centers on the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion. Expect white-shawled pilgrims, chanting deacons, incense smoke and drums over a few days of procession and prayer. My mistake was arriving on the eve with no bed booked, which meant a long evening of knocking on doors. Book early. You will like it most if you want devotion over entertainment. Party-seekers and anyone needing comfort will not.

Discover everything you want to know in the 📖 Ethiopia Travel Guide.
Safety warning

The current risk level for Ethiopia is high. Check the advice before going.


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✨ Why go?
Ranked #11 festival in EthiopiaWhat sets this place apart

Hidar Tsion draws backpackers because it puts you inside one of the oldest Christian rituals in Africa, in a town where the faith has been practiced since the 4th century. The big draw is the procession around the Mary of Zion compound, where priests carry richly embroidered umbrellas and crosses while crowds sing and ululate. Nobody performs it for tourists, so you stand shoulder to shoulder with farmers who walked in from distant villages. It also fits neatly into a northern circuit. Axum’s stelae field and the rock churches of Tigray sit within reach, so the festival can anchor a week of history. Costs stay modest because the event is a religious gathering, not a ticketed festival, though lodging fills fast and prices rise.

💡 HighlightsThe experiences that define the visit

  1. Procession of the Tabot: Priests in embroidered robes carry the sacred replica of the Ark through the crowds under bright ceremonial umbrellas, with sistrums rattling and drums beating.
  2. Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion: The pilgrimage focus, said to guard the Ark of the Covenant. Only one guardian monk may enter the chapel, but the compound and its old Saint Mary of Zion church are open to view.
  3. Chanting and Yared hymns: Deacons sing through the night in Ge’ez, the liturgical language, accompanied by the prayer staff and the sistrum.
  4. Pilgrim crowds in white shawls: Thousands wearing the traditional white netela fill the courtyards, and watching people kiss the church walls and pray is moving in itself.
  5. Stelae Field of Axum: Just a short walk from the church, the giant carved granite obelisks, including
… read more 👉
  1. Procession of the Tabot: Priests in embroidered robes carry the sacred replica of the Ark through the crowds under bright ceremonial umbrellas, with sistrums rattling and drums beating.
  2. Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion: The pilgrimage focus, said to guard the Ark of the Covenant. Only one guardian monk may enter the chapel, but the compound and its old Saint Mary of Zion church are open to view.
  3. Chanting and Yared hymns: Deacons sing through the night in Ge’ez, the liturgical language, accompanied by the prayer staff and the sistrum.
  4. Pilgrim crowds in white shawls: Thousands wearing the traditional white netela fill the courtyards, and watching people kiss the church walls and pray is moving in itself.
  5. Stelae Field of Axum: Just a short walk from the church, the giant carved granite obelisks, including the great fallen stele, give the festival its ancient backdrop. There is an entry fee of about US$5 to 10 for the site.
Hidar Tsion itself can fill a full day for the main ceremonies, plus another day for the stelae and surrounding sights.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near Hidar Tsion

Tigray Churches Tour 5D and 4N

Tigray Churches Tour 5D and 4N

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Day Trip to Gheralta’s Cliffside Churches, “Sacred Heights”

Day Trip to Gheralta’s Cliffside Churches, “Sacred Heights”

4.9(17) 5h 30m
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4-Day Tour: Tigray Churches & Danakil Depression Adventure.

4-Day Tour: Tigray Churches & Danakil Depression Adventure.

5.0(13) 96h
From €492
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Axum City Tour

Axum City Tour

4.9(12) 8h 30m
From €181
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5-Day Northern Ethiopia Tour : 3D Simien Mountains Trek & Axum.

5-Day Northern Ethiopia Tour : 3D Simien Mountains Trek & Axum.

4.9(10) 120h
From €427
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Two Days Tigray Churches Trip

Two Days Tigray Churches Trip

4.6(11) 48h
From €372
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Two Days Trip in Axum and its Surroundings

Two Days Trip in Axum and its Surroundings

5.0(8) 48h
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Day Trip in Axum

Day Trip in Axum

5.0(6)
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Simien Mountains – 4 Days

Simien Mountains – 4 Days

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From €725
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Full Day Guided Trip in Axum

Full Day Guided Trip in Axum

5.0(3)
From €72
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Ratings based on Tripadvisor reviews. When you book through this link, you support our work at no extra cost to you.

🌤️ When to go?When is the celebration of Hidar Tsion?

Hidar Tsion is celebrated on 21 Hidar in the Ethiopian calendar, which falls on 30 November (or 1 December in the year before an Ethiopian leap year), and the main pilgrimage runs for about three days around the feast at the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion in Axum.
  • Best day: The eve and the feast day itself. Processions with the tabot, drums, sistra and white-robed crowds fill the church compound, and the quieter days after are better for the churches and stelae.
  • Weather: Expect sunny days of roughly 24 to 27°C (75 to 81°F), no rain, and cool nights near 8 to 12°C (46 to 54°F). Bring a shawl or light jacket, sun protection and a scarf for church grounds.
  • Booking: Reserve a bed 4 to 8 weeks ahead. Rooms can cost two or three times the usual rate, around US$20 to 60.
  • Crowds: Flights and buses into
… read more 👉
Hidar Tsion is celebrated on 21 Hidar in the Ethiopian calendar, which falls on 30 November (or 1 December in the year before an Ethiopian leap year), and the main pilgrimage runs for about three days around the feast at the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion in Axum.
  • Best day: The eve and the feast day itself. Processions with the tabot, drums, sistra and white-robed crowds fill the church compound, and the quieter days after are better for the churches and stelae.
  • Weather: Expect sunny days of roughly 24 to 27°C (75 to 81°F), no rain, and cool nights near 8 to 12°C (46 to 54°F). Bring a shawl or light jacket, sun protection and a scarf for church grounds.
  • Booking: Reserve a bed 4 to 8 weeks ahead. Rooms can cost two or three times the usual rate, around US$20 to 60.
  • Crowds: Flights and buses into Axum fill up, so arrive two days early and leave a day after.
Book your return transport before you arrive, because getting out of Axum right after the feast is the hardest part.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: not recommended for travelingFEBFebruary: not recommended for travelingMARMarch: not recommended for travelingAPRApril: not recommended for travelingMAYMay: not recommended for travelingJUNJune: not recommended for travelingJULJuly: not recommended for travelingAUGAugust: not recommended for travelingSEPSeptember: not recommended for travelingOCTOctober: not recommended for travelingNOVNovember: excellent for travelingDECDecember: not recommended for traveling

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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas and accommodation options

Stay in central Axum, within walking distance of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, because that is where the processions, chanting and all-night vigils happen. The streets around the main stelae park and the town center are the most social, with guesthouses, cafes and rooftop terraces where solo travelers swap plans and split guides or shared rides to Yeha and Debre Damo. Walking at night here is generally comfortable, though pickpockets work the festival crowds, so carry only what you need. Budget rooms near the central market and along the main road to the airport cost about US$8 to 20 normally, … read more 👉
Stay in central Axum, within walking distance of the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, because that is where the processions, chanting and all-night vigils happen. The streets around the main stelae park and the town center are the most social, with guesthouses, cafes and rooftop terraces where solo travelers swap plans and split guides or shared rides to Yeha and Debre Damo. Walking at night here is generally comfortable, though pickpockets work the festival crowds, so carry only what you need. Budget rooms near the central market and along the main road to the airport cost about US$8 to 20 normally, and fill quickly before the feast. If everything central is booked, look at the quieter residential edges of town, a 10 to 20 minute walk from the church, where family-run guesthouses often have space. Bajaj three-wheelers cover those distances cheaply, but walk during the main procession since traffic is closed or crawling.
Best hostels in Ethiopia


Best quality hotels in Ethiopia

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)Money, prices, and spending tips

Hidar Tsion costs about US$43 to 98 per day for an independent traveler, with accommodation the biggest swing because prices jump at feast time.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUS$0Processions and the church compound are free to watch. Entry to the church museum and other Axum sites is charged separately, around US$10 to 20 for the main sites.
AccommodationUS$10 to 30 off-peak, US$20 to 60 high seasonBasic guesthouse rooms triple around the feast. Dorm-style beds are rare.
Local transportUS$2 to 8Bajaj rides in town cost under US$1 to 2. Shared minibuses to nearby sites run a few dollars.
Food & drinksUS$6 to 15Local meals cost US$2 to 5, with coffee and tea under US$1.
MiscellaneousUS$5 to 15Church donations, a guide for a day, and small souvenirs such as crosses and scarves.
Total
… read more 👉
Hidar Tsion costs about US$43 to 98 per day for an independent traveler, with accommodation the biggest swing because prices jump at feast time.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Festival ticketsUS$0Processions and the church compound are free to watch. Entry to the church museum and other Axum sites is charged separately, around US$10 to 20 for the main sites.
AccommodationUS$10 to 30 off-peak, US$20 to 60 high seasonBasic guesthouse rooms triple around the feast. Dorm-style beds are rare.
Local transportUS$2 to 8Bajaj rides in town cost under US$1 to 2. Shared minibuses to nearby sites run a few dollars.
Food & drinksUS$6 to 15Local meals cost US$2 to 5, with coffee and tea under US$1.
MiscellaneousUS$5 to 15Church donations, a guide for a day, and small souvenirs such as crosses and scarves.
Total Daily BudgetUS$43 to 98Around US$70 on a typical festival day.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🍲 FoodLocal Cuisine & Drinks

Festival days in Axum mean injera platters shared from one big plate, and the fasting-friendly shiro, lentil stews and greens that many pilgrims eat around the feast. Stalls and cafes near the church sell kolo (roasted barley and chickpeas) by the paper cone, dabo bread, and sweet shai tea spiced with cloves. Try a buna coffee ceremony, with the beans roasted in front of you and three rounds poured, which is the easiest way to start a conversation with locals.

For drinks, look for tej (honey wine) and tella (home-brewed barley beer) in small local bars, plus Dashen and St. George beer. Meat dishes such as tibs or kitfo appear around the feast, though some places keep fasting menus.

Pay in cash, and carry small notes because change is scarce when it is busy. Eat with your right hand, accept … read more 👉
Festival days in Axum mean injera platters shared from one big plate, and the fasting-friendly shiro, lentil stews and greens that many pilgrims eat around the feast. Stalls and cafes near the church sell kolo (roasted barley and chickpeas) by the paper cone, dabo bread, and sweet shai tea spiced with cloves. Try a buna coffee ceremony, with the beans roasted in front of you and three rounds poured, which is the easiest way to start a conversation with locals.

For drinks, look for tej (honey wine) and tella (home-brewed barley beer) in small local bars, plus Dashen and St. George beer. Meat dishes such as tibs or kitfo appear around the feast, though some places keep fasting menus.

Pay in cash, and carry small notes because change is scarce when it is busy. Eat with your right hand, accept the gursha (a hand-fed bite) graciously, and expect lines at popular places around midday.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Hidar Tsion is held every year on 21 Hidar in the Ethiopian calendar, which is 30 November in most years. The main celebrations at the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion in Axum last about three days, with the eve and feast day the busiest. Plan to arrive by 28 November.
Watching Hidar Tsion costs nothing, since the processions and chanting at the church in Axum are open to the public. Your real costs are a bed, at roughly US$20 to 60 a night during the feast, plus food at US$6 to 15 a day. Allow US$45 to 95 per day overall, plus about US$10 to 20 for museum or site entry.
No tickets are needed for Hidar Tsion, because the celebrations are public and free. What you should book ahead is a bed in Axum, ideally 4 to 8 weeks early, and flights or buses to town, which fill up in the days before 30 November. Some church areas, such as the old chapel, are closed to visitors, and women and men are separated in certain spaces.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Ethiopian festivals near Hidar Tsion

Explore more nearby:

  • Timkat—Epiphany processions, tabot parades, mass river baptisms| 217 km away
  • Gena—Ethiopian Christmas, traditional stick game, early morning mass| 236 km away
  • Meskel—bonfire ceremony, cross discovery, Demera procession| 569 km away

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We 💚 feedbackFinal thoughts on celebrating the Hidar Tsion

Hidar Tsion works best as the centerpiece of a Tigray loop, paired with Axum’s stelae and the rock churches around Gheralta. I would book a bed weeks ahead, bring a white scarf to show respect, and treat it as a quiet, devout day, not a party.

✈️ When did I visit Ethiopia?
Ethiopia I visited back in October 2017. I combined the trip with a visit to Sudan. Ethiopia was a pure surprise with the magical scenery like the Danakil Depression and the Simien Mountains.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Ethiopia, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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