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Mexico🇲🇽 | national parksDesierto de los LeonesCarmelite monastery, fir forest, Los Dinamos route, weekend picnics | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Desierto de los Leones
👍 Recommendednational park ranked #11
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 20, 2026

Desierto de los Leones puts real pine forest within a short ride of Mexico City’s traffic, which means you can trade exhaust for resin before lunch. It sits in Mexico’s capital, on the southwestern edge in Cuajimalpa, and it is not a desert, which is the first joke the park plays on you. The trails are wide and well walked, the fir and pine forest is quiet midweek, and weekends bring families, cyclists and a lot of quesadilla smoke. Wildlife is modest, mostly birds and squirrels. When I arrived, I stepped off the road into a wall of cool, resinous air and the highway noise simply stopped, which felt faintly illegal. Go early on a weekday, because the paths fill up fast.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #11 national park in MexicoThe unique appeal for travelers

Desierto de los Leones appeals to backpackers because it is a self-guided escape that needs no tour and no guide. You can hike from the old Ex-Convento del Desierto de los Leones into forest paths at your own pace, and the network of dirt roads and footpaths lets you improvise a loop of whatever length your legs allow. It also works as a rest day from the capital’s museums and markets, so you can keep your base in the city and still sleep surrounded by concrete rather than needles. Trail variety is the other draw: broad gravel tracks for easy walking, steeper climbs through dense oyamel fir stands, and quieter side routes where you may hear woodpeckers instead of engines. The park suits independent walkers far better than organized groups, and a wander here costs little compared with the rest of a Mexico trip.

💡 HighlightsMust-see experiences and standout moments

  1. Ex-Convento del Desierto de los Leones: A 17th-century Carmelite monastery, the park’s best-known sight, with cloisters, crypts, tunnels and a garden. Its stone walls and quiet courtyards are a sharp contrast to the forest outside.
  2. Oyamel and pine forest: Tall firs and pines cover the slopes, and the air carries a distinct resin smell. The main trail beneath them is shaded and easy to walk.
  3. Capilla de San Miguel: A small chapel near the monastery grounds that gives a calm place to rest and look at the colonial stonework.
  4. Los Dinamos route: A longer forest approach popular with trail walkers who want more distance and fewer people than the monastery path.
  5. Birdwatching along the paths: Woodpeckers, hummingbirds and jays are regularly seen, especially early in the day when the trails are quiet.
  6. Picnic
… read more 👉
  1. Ex-Convento del Desierto de los Leones: A 17th-century Carmelite monastery, the park’s best-known sight, with cloisters, crypts, tunnels and a garden. Its stone walls and quiet courtyards are a sharp contrast to the forest outside.
  2. Oyamel and pine forest: Tall firs and pines cover the slopes, and the air carries a distinct resin smell. The main trail beneath them is shaded and easy to walk.
  3. Capilla de San Miguel: A small chapel near the monastery grounds that gives a calm place to rest and look at the colonial stonework.
  4. Los Dinamos route: A longer forest approach popular with trail walkers who want more distance and fewer people than the monastery path.
  5. Birdwatching along the paths: Woodpeckers, hummingbirds and jays are regularly seen, especially early in the day when the trails are quiet.
  6. Picnic and viewing clearings: Open grassy patches between the trees where locals spread blankets and cook on weekends, a good place to see how Mexico City families relax.
  7. Mountain biking tracks: Wide dirt roads attract cyclists, and watching them tackle the descents is entertaining even if you walk.
Desierto de los Leones charges an entrance fee for the monastery area, and the park itself needs no advance booking.
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Things to do near Desierto de los Leones

Mexico City Private Family Boat Tour Xochimilco UNESCO

Mexico City Private Family Boat Tour Xochimilco UNESCO

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🌤️ When to go?Best time to explore Desierto de los Leones

  • Dry Season (November to April): Crisp mornings of 3 to 8°C (37 to 46°F) give way to afternoons of 17 to 22°C (63 to 72°F). Trails are firm, and daylight runs roughly 11 to 12 hours.
  • Rainy Season (May to October): Afternoon downpours are near daily, especially June to September. Highs sit around 16 to 20°C (61 to 68°F), the forest turns lush and the trails get muddy and slick.
  • Weekends and Holidays: Sundays bring cyclists, families and picnickers, so the main paths and the former convent fill up. Weekdays are quiet.
  • Prices: Entry stays flat all year. Rooms in Mexico City rise a little around Christmas and Holy Week.
Go on a weekday morning between November and March for empty trails and the clearest views toward the city.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: highly recommended for travelingFEBFebruary: highly recommended for travelingMARMarch: excellent for travelingAPRApril: excellent for travelingMAYMay: good for travelingJUNJune: good for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: fair for travelingOCTOctober: good for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: highly recommended for traveling
when-to-go

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🛏️ Where to stay?How to pick the right area

No lodging exists inside Desierto de los Leones, and camping within the park is not permitted, so your bed is in Mexico City or in the villages along the forest edge. The simplest choice for backpackers is Colonia Roma or Condesa, where hostels run about US$15 to 30 for a dorm bed and private rooms start near US$50. From there, a Metro ride to Observatorio followed by a bus toward Cuajimalpa or Santa Rosa Xochiac gets you to the gate in roughly 1.5 hours. Staying in Coyoacán or San Ángel shortens that ride and feels calmer in the evenings, with dorm beds around US$15 to 25. If you want to wake … read more 👉
No lodging exists inside Desierto de los Leones, and camping within the park is not permitted, so your bed is in Mexico City or in the villages along the forest edge. The simplest choice for backpackers is Colonia Roma or Condesa, where hostels run about US$15 to 30 for a dorm bed and private rooms start near US$50. From there, a Metro ride to Observatorio followed by a bus toward Cuajimalpa or Santa Rosa Xochiac gets you to the gate in roughly 1.5 hours. Staying in Coyoacán or San Ángel shortens that ride and feels calmer in the evenings, with dorm beds around US$15 to 25. If you want to wake up beside pine forest, look at cabins and small guesthouses in Santa Rosa Xochiac or La Venta, usually US$40 to 90 a night, though choices are limited and you should book ahead for weekends. Cuajimalpa has basic hotels at US$30 to 50 and sits closest to the main entrance. Early starts matter here, since morning light on the trails is the best and the road gets busy later.
Best hostels in Mexico


Best quality hotels in Mexico

👛 Costs (as of 20 October 2026)Money, prices, and spending tips

A day at Desierto de los Leones costs about US$38 for a backpacker staying in Mexico City. The table below shows typical figures in US dollars, paid in pesos.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Entrance feeUS$1 to 2A small per-person fee at the gate, cash is easiest.
Accommodation (high season)US$12 to 25Dorm bed in a Mexico City hostel. Private rooms run US$40 to 70.
Local transportUS$3 to 8Metro to Observatorio, then a local bus toward Cuajimalpa. A rideshare from central areas costs US$10 to 20 one way.
Food and suppliesUS$8 to 15Quesadillas and tacos at the stalls near the convent cost US$1 to 3 each, with sit-down meals around US$6 to 10.
ExtrasUS$2 to 5Snacks, coffee or a horse ride on busy weekends.
Total Daily BudgetUS$26 to 55About US$38 as a realistic middle figure.


source: gob.mx
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🥾 TrailsBest hikes in Desierto de los Leones national park

Desierto de los Leones offers forest walking of mostly easy to moderate difficulty, on packed dirt and gravel with some rooty, muddy sections after rain. Altitude is above 3,000 meters, so even gentle climbs can leave you breathless.
  • Monastery loop: Start at the Ex-Convento and follow the broad forest road for about 2 to 4 kilometers, taking 1 to 2 hours. Easy, with shaded pine and fir.
  • Forest road to the upper trails: Longer, steadier climbs of 5 to 10 kilometers, taking 2 to 4 hours. Moderate, with quieter paths and more birdlife.
  • Dinamos connection: For stronger hikers, a longer route through
… read more 👉
Desierto de los Leones offers forest walking of mostly easy to moderate difficulty, on packed dirt and gravel with some rooty, muddy sections after rain. Altitude is above 3,000 meters, so even gentle climbs can leave you breathless.
  • Monastery loop: Start at the Ex-Convento and follow the broad forest road for about 2 to 4 kilometers, taking 1 to 2 hours. Easy, with shaded pine and fir.
  • Forest road to the upper trails: Longer, steadier climbs of 5 to 10 kilometers, taking 2 to 4 hours. Moderate, with quieter paths and more birdlife.
  • Dinamos connection: For stronger hikers, a longer route through dense woodland, with muddy patches and few other walkers. Allow most of a day.
  • Wildlife: Expect woodpeckers, hummingbirds, squirrels and the occasional hawk. Larger animals are rarely seen.
  • Scenery: Dense oyamel forest, moss-covered trunks and cool, misty air, with the monastery’s stone walls as the focal point.
Getting there is straightforward by bus from southwestern Mexico City, followed by a short taxi or walk to the gate. Weekdays are calm, while Saturdays and Sundays draw large local crowds, so arrive early. A small entrance fee is charged and paid in pesos. Trails are mostly signed, though junctions in the forest can be confusing, so carry a downloaded map.
⚠️ Hiking info can sometimes be outdated or inaccurate. Before you hit the trail, check the latest conditions with locals. If you do spot anything that's off, I'd love to hear from you, so I can update it for fellow travelers.

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

Desierto de los Leones is a well-managed forest park where the main risks are weather and thin air. The park sits at about 3,000 meters (9,800 feet), so a fast pace on the climbs leaves first-timers winded. Afternoon storms roll in during summer, turning dirt paths slick, so start early and carry a rain shell. Fog can hide side trails, so stay on marked routes and download an offline map. Pack a warm layer, as temperatures fall quickly in the shade. Avoid walking alone on remote paths late in the day, and keep valuables out of sight in parked cars. Wildlife is minimal, mostly birds, squirrels and the occasional rabbit.
Check Country Safety

FAQCommon questions from travelers

One full day is enough for Desierto de los Leones. Loops through the pine and fir forest take 2 to 4 hours, and the former Carmelite convent needs another hour. Add a second day only if you want to combine it with nearby Parque Nacional Cumbres del Ajusco or longer ridge walks.
Yes, Desierto de los Leones is reachable without a car. Take the Metro to Observatorio, then a bus toward Cuajimalpa or Santa Rosa, and get off near the park road. The trip takes roughly 1 to 1.5 hours from central Mexico City, and a rideshare from Observatorio costs about US$8 to 15.
Desierto de los Leones charges a small entrance fee of roughly US$1 to 2 per person, payable in cash at the gate. No permit is needed for day hiking or picnicking. Camping is not generally available, and the park is open during daylight hours, usually closing around late afternoon.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Mexican national parks near Desierto de los Leones

Explore more nearby:

  • Nevado de Toluca—Twin crater lakes, 4,680-meter rim, volcanic gravel, drive-in summit| 51 km away
  • Grutas de Cacahuamilpa—Guided cave tour, Gran Salón, giant stalagmites, river exits| 71 km away
  • Sierra de Huautla—Dry tropical forest, Cerro Frío ridge, Balsas endemics, rainy-season green| 100 km away

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We 💚 feedbackWhat to keep in mind

Desierto de los Leones is easy to treat as a quick photo stop at the monastery, but the forest behind it is the real reason to come. Walk past the cloisters and keep going until the crowd noise fades. I would bring a rain layer, since afternoon showers turn the paths slick.

✈️ When did I visit Mexico?
As part of my 1.5 year travel around the world trip, I visited Mexico in February and March 2016. Had to hurry a bit as I didn’t want to miss the free performance of the Rolling Stones in Cuba.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Mexico, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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