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Morocco🇲🇦 | citiesSafiPotters’ Hill kilns, Portuguese sea castle, sardine harbor, ceramic museum | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Safi
👌 Worth visitingcity ranked #13
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Safi gives you Morocco’s best pottery shopping without a single tour bus in the way. It sits on the Atlantic coast, roughly halfway between Essaouira and El Jadida, in western Morocco. I stepped off the bus and the first thing I noticed was the smell of wood smoke drifting down from the kilns on the hill. Skip the beach and the port promenade, they take an hour and give little. Spend your time in the medina and the pottery quarter, where one day is enough. The slope above the Potters’ Hill is dotted with chimneys, each one stained black at the top.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #13 city in MoroccoWhat makes it a must-see city

Safi works because it is a real working port and pottery town that sees few foreign visitors, so prices stay honest and nobody is performing for you. Most backpackers slot it in between Essaouira and El Jadida on the coastal run, and the sardine-canning heritage still shapes the Atlantic harbor feel. The Colline des Potiers alone fills a morning, and you can watch glazing and firing at close range. Hostels are scarce, so expect simple guesthouses instead. Nightlife is quiet, and the food is grilled fish and little else, which suits plenty of people. If you need constant activity, make it a single night. If you like workshops, pick Safi.

💡 HighlightsDon't-miss highlights and experiences

  1. Colline des Potiers (Potters’ Hill): Dozens of family workshops where you watch clay thrown, painted and fired in wood kilns. Go in the morning when the kilns are busy. Free to walk, buy what you like, 1 to 2 hours.
  2. Ceramic Museum in Dar el Bahr: Housed in the old sea castle, with examples of regional pottery. Entry is about US$1 to 2, 45 minutes. Come midday when light fills the courtyard.
  3. Qasr al-Bahr (Sea Castle): A Portuguese-built fortress on the shore with cannons facing the ocean and views over the harbor. Entry around US$1 to 2, 30 to 45 minutes. Late afternoon is best.
  4. Safi Medina: A relaxed old quarter with a long main street of shops, fewer touts than Marrakech. Free, 1 to 2 hours, mornings are liveliest.
  5. Kechla Fortress: A hilltop Portuguese-era citadel above the medina, with ramparts
… read more 👉
  1. Colline des Potiers (Potters’ Hill): Dozens of family workshops where you watch clay thrown, painted and fired in wood kilns. Go in the morning when the kilns are busy. Free to walk, buy what you like, 1 to 2 hours.
  2. Ceramic Museum in Dar el Bahr: Housed in the old sea castle, with examples of regional pottery. Entry is about US$1 to 2, 45 minutes. Come midday when light fills the courtyard.
  3. Qasr al-Bahr (Sea Castle): A Portuguese-built fortress on the shore with cannons facing the ocean and views over the harbor. Entry around US$1 to 2, 30 to 45 minutes. Late afternoon is best.
  4. Safi Medina: A relaxed old quarter with a long main street of shops, fewer touts than Marrakech. Free, 1 to 2 hours, mornings are liveliest.
  5. Kechla Fortress: A hilltop Portuguese-era citadel above the medina, with ramparts and a small ceramics gallery. About US$1 to 2, 45 minutes.
  6. Great Mosque of Safi Minaret and Portuguese Cathedral ruins: The roofless Gothic remains of an unfinished Portuguese cathedral sit near the medina. Free to look at from outside, 20 minutes.
  7. Port of Safi sardine harbor: Blue fishing boats unload at dawn and small grills serve fish nearby. Free to watch, 1 hour, best early morning.
Safi’s coast also has Oualidia with its lagoon and oysters, Essaouira, and the surf beach at Lalla Fatna, all reachable by road as day outings. Start at Colline des Potiers, since nothing else here matches watching the kilns at work.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near Safi

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🏘️ NeighborhoodsWhere things are and how it's laid out

Safi is a working port and pottery town, so the areas worth your time sit close together and you can cover them on foot.
  • Old Medina: Walled lanes run down toward the sea, with the Dar el-Bahar sea fortress at the western end and the Great Mosque nearby. Spend a half day here. It costs nothing to wander, and the narrow stalls selling sardines, spices and everyday goods are far less touristy than Marrakech.
  • Colline des Potiers: The pottery hill on the northeast edge is the reason most people come. Kilns smoke between workshops where you can watch glazing and buy directly. Walk up from the medina in 25 minutes or take a short petit taxi ride. Go in the morning when the workshops are busy.
  • Ville Nouvelle: The grid of boulevards around Place de l’Indépendance has cafés, banks and the train station.
… read more 👉
Safi is a working port and pottery town, so the areas worth your time sit close together and you can cover them on foot.
  • Old Medina: Walled lanes run down toward the sea, with the Dar el-Bahar sea fortress at the western end and the Great Mosque nearby. Spend a half day here. It costs nothing to wander, and the narrow stalls selling sardines, spices and everyday goods are far less touristy than Marrakech.
  • Colline des Potiers: The pottery hill on the northeast edge is the reason most people come. Kilns smoke between workshops where you can watch glazing and buy directly. Walk up from the medina in 25 minutes or take a short petit taxi ride. Go in the morning when the workshops are busy.
  • Ville Nouvelle: The grid of boulevards around Place de l’Indépendance has cafés, banks and the train station. It is dull for sightseeing, but useful for ATMs and cheap grilled fish lunches. Skip it after errands.
  • Beachfront and Corniche: Atlantic surf draws local surfers to the beaches south of town, such as Lalla Fatna. A petit taxi covers the distance cheaply, and the evening walk is better than anything in the center.

⌛️ 1 dayA smart one-day plan

9:00 AM: Colline des Potiers Start in the pottery quarter while the kilns are being loaded. Walk the lanes, watch painters at work and buy small pieces directly from the family workshops. Allow two hours, then walk down toward the old town.
11:30 AM: Safi Medina Stroll the main street past shops and cafés. It is calmer than other Moroccan medinas. Stop for a coffee in the small square.
1:00 PM: Lunch near the port Eat grilled sardines or fish at a simple harbor grill, then walk along the shore to the fortress.
2:30 PM: Qasr al-Bahr and Dar el Bahr Climb the ramparts for the ocean view, then visit the ceramic museum.
4:30 PM: Kechla Fortress Head uphill to the citadel to see the walls and the town from above.
6:00 PM: Sidi Bouzid lighthouse and cliffs Take a short taxi to the quiet cliffs south … read more 👉
9:00 AM: Colline des Potiers Start in the pottery quarter while the kilns are being loaded. Walk the lanes, watch painters at work and buy small pieces directly from the family workshops. Allow two hours, then walk down toward the old town.
11:30 AM: Safi Medina Stroll the main street past shops and cafés. It is calmer than other Moroccan medinas. Stop for a coffee in the small square.
1:00 PM: Lunch near the port Eat grilled sardines or fish at a simple harbor grill, then walk along the shore to the fortress.
2:30 PM: Qasr al-Bahr and Dar el Bahr Climb the ramparts for the ocean view, then visit the ceramic museum.
4:30 PM: Kechla Fortress Head uphill to the citadel to see the walls and the town from above.
6:00 PM: Sidi Bouzid lighthouse and cliffs Take a short taxi to the quiet cliffs south of town, where locals gather at the end of the day, away from standard routes. Finish with a walk along the coast.

🌤️ When to go?Weather, crowds, and seasonal trade-offs

  • Spring (March to May): Days of 18 to 24°C (64 to 75°F) suit walking the medina and pottery hill, with fewer crowds and standard prices.
  • Summer (June to September): Atlantic breezes keep highs near 24 to 28°C (75 to 82°F), cooler than inland cities. Moroccan families fill the beaches in July and August, and surf schools are busiest. Daylight stretches to about 14 hours.
  • Autumn (October to November): Warm seas, 20 to 25°C (68 to 77°F) and calm streets make this a strong window for surfing and pottery shopping.
  • Winter (December to February): Highs of 15 to 19°C (59 to 66°F), some rain and the biggest swells. Rooms are cheapest and the town is quiet.
Aim for October or April if you want sun without the summer beach crowds.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: excellent for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: good for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: highly recommended for travelingOCTOctober: excellent for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Choosing the right base

The Ville Nouvelle near the train station and Place de l’Indépendance is the most practical area for a budget bed. Budget rooms and a few basic guesthouses cluster there, and prices are usually lower than in Essaouira or Marrakech. Dorm beds are scarce in Safi, so expect private rooms, often with shared bathrooms, and book ahead in summer.
The edge of the old medina is the second option. It puts you within walking distance of the markets and the sea fortress, and the atmosphere is livelier in the evening. Lanes are dark and hard to follow late at night, so choose a place near a main gate. Ville … read more 👉
The Ville Nouvelle near the train station and Place de l’Indépendance is the most practical area for a budget bed. Budget rooms and a few basic guesthouses cluster there, and prices are usually lower than in Essaouira or Marrakech. Dorm beds are scarce in Safi, so expect private rooms, often with shared bathrooms, and book ahead in summer.
The edge of the old medina is the second option. It puts you within walking distance of the markets and the sea fortress, and the atmosphere is livelier in the evening. Lanes are dark and hard to follow late at night, so choose a place near a main gate. Ville Nouvelle is quieter and easier for early trains and buses, while the medina side suits those who like waking to market sounds.
Best hostels in Safi


Best quality hotels in Morocco

🚌 Getting aroundTransportation options and practical tips

Safi is small enough that walking and the occasional petit taxi cover nearly everything, and that is the easiest way to move around. Traffic is light compared with Casablanca or Marrakech, and there is no metro, so local buses matter little for visitors.
  • Walking: Free and the best choice for the medina, the sea fortress and the climb to the pottery hill, which takes about 25 minutes from the center. Streets are uneven, so wear sturdy shoes.
  • Petit taxi: Beige, metered cars cost around US$1 to 2 for most rides inside town. Insist the driver uses the meter. This is the best value for reaching the beaches or the potters’ quarter when it is hot or you carry a pack.
  • City bus: Cheap at about US$0.50 and runs through the day, but routes are confusing and signage is mostly Arabic. It is not worth learning
… read more 👉
Safi is small enough that walking and the occasional petit taxi cover nearly everything, and that is the easiest way to move around. Traffic is light compared with Casablanca or Marrakech, and there is no metro, so local buses matter little for visitors.
  • Walking: Free and the best choice for the medina, the sea fortress and the climb to the pottery hill, which takes about 25 minutes from the center. Streets are uneven, so wear sturdy shoes.
  • Petit taxi: Beige, metered cars cost around US$1 to 2 for most rides inside town. Insist the driver uses the meter. This is the best value for reaching the beaches or the potters’ quarter when it is hot or you carry a pack.
  • City bus: Cheap at about US$0.50 and runs through the day, but routes are confusing and signage is mostly Arabic. It is not worth learning for a short stay.
  • Train and intercity bus: The station links Safi with Marrakech and the coast. Trains to Marrakech take roughly 2.5 to 3 hours for US$7 to 10. Buses and shared grand taxis are quicker on some routes and cost US$5 to 9. Grand taxis leave when full, so go early. Take the train when you want comfort, and the grand taxi when you want speed.

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)Typical daily expenses

Safi costs most backpackers about US$38 to 55 a day, which is cheaper than Marrakech or Essaouira.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodation (high season)US$12 to 18Dorms are rare, so this is usually a basic private room or shared guesthouse.
Dorm accommodation (off-season)US$8 to 13Prices drop outside summer and holidays.
MealsUS$8 to 14Grilled sardines, msemen and simple tagines.
Local transportUS$2 to 5Petit taxis cost US$1 to 2 per ride.
City transport passNot availablePay per ride on buses and taxis.
Basic activities and entry feesUS$2 to 6Medina and potteries are free, and the fortress ticket is low.
MiscellaneousUS$4 to 8Water, coffee, souvenirs and pottery.
Total Daily BudgetUS$38 to 55Based on high-season spending.
Eat your main meal at lunch from harbor stalls, where fish is fresher and cheaper than evening sit-down meals.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsWhere to go beyond the main area

Safi works well as a base for coastal and inland day trips, and public transport covers most of them.
Oualidia:
A lagoon town known for oysters, reached by bus or shared taxi in roughly 1.5 hours. Budget US$20 to 35 including oysters and transport. Go between spring and autumn, and avoid weekends in August. First-timers often arrive too late for lunch.
👉 Explore Oualidia
Cap Beddouza:
A windswept lighthouse headland north of town with cliffs and empty beaches. A grand taxi gets you most of the way in about 45 minutes, and you should arrange the return ride in advance because traffic is sparse. Costs run US$10 to 20. Visit in calm weather.

El Jadida:
The Portuguese cistern and ramparts make this the best historic stop on the coast, about 2.5 hours by bus for US$6 to 10 each way. Leave early to … read more 👉
Safi works well as a base for coastal and inland day trips, and public transport covers most of them.
Oualidia:
A lagoon town known for oysters, reached by bus or shared taxi in roughly 1.5 hours. Budget US$20 to 35 including oysters and transport. Go between spring and autumn, and avoid weekends in August. First-timers often arrive too late for lunch.
👉 Explore Oualidia
Cap Beddouza:
A windswept lighthouse headland north of town with cliffs and empty beaches. A grand taxi gets you most of the way in about 45 minutes, and you should arrange the return ride in advance because traffic is sparse. Costs run US$10 to 20. Visit in calm weather.

El Jadida:
The Portuguese cistern and ramparts make this the best historic stop on the coast, about 2.5 hours by bus for US$6 to 10 each way. Leave early to see it all. Many travelers underestimate the return schedule.
👉 Explore El Jadida
Essaouira:
A lively walled port about 2 hours by road, with grilled fish and a surf scene. Transport costs about US$8 to 14 each way, and a visit in spring or autumn avoids wind and crowds.
👉 Explore Essaouira

🍲 FoodEating & Drinking in Safi

Safi is a sardine town, and the port has long supplied canneries. Look for grilled sardines at stalls near the harbor and the Ville Nouvelle, served with bread and a spicy chermoula marinade of garlic, cumin and coriander. Meals cost about US$3 to 6. Fish tagine and fried seafood plates are also common, and they differ from inland meat tagines in using the Atlantic catch.
Backpackers eat at small seafood counters, market stalls and casual cafés rather than formal restaurants. Mornings call for msemen pancakes and strong coffee or fresh orange juice at corner cafés for about US$1 to 2. Alcohol is limited, so most people drink mint tea and juice. Fish is best at lunch when the catch is freshest.

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

Safi is calm and low-key, and most visitors never face anything worse than persistent sellers. Pickpocketing is uncommon but can happen in the crowded medina, so carry your phone in a front pocket. Unofficial guides sometimes appear near the pottery hill and sea fortress. A polite no and keeping your pace works. Agree prices before accepting any service. Solo travelers, including women, usually feel comfortable, though dressing modestly avoids attention. After dark, stick to the lit boulevards of the new town and avoid the unlit medina lanes and the cliff edges near the fortress. Rip currents at some surf beaches are the bigger hazard, so ask locals before swimming.
Check Country Safety

FAQCommon questions from travelers

Two days is enough for Safi if you want the medina, the sea fortress, the pottery hill and a beach afternoon. Add a third day for Oualidia, about 1.5 hours away, or a surf session. Most travelers pass through on the coastal route between El Jadida and Essaouira.
Yes, Safi is comfortable for solo backpackers, including women, as it sees few tourists and little hassle. Pickpocketing in the medina is uncommon but possible, so keep valuables in a front pocket. Avoid unlit lanes late at night, and use a petit taxi for US$1 to 2.
Safi is known for its pottery, produced on the Colline des Potiers where kilns and glazed ceramics have been made for generations. It is also a major sardine port, and it has the Portuguese-built Dar el-Bahar sea fortress. Surf beaches nearby draw riders, especially from autumn to spring.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Moroccan cities near Safi

Explore more nearby:

  • El Jadida—Portuguese cistern, seaside ramparts, colonial quarters| 125 km away
  • Marrakech—red sandstone walls, souk maze, palm groves| 138 km away
  • El Kelaa des Sraghna—olive oil mills, Haouz plain, rural souks| 174 km away

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We 💚 feedbackWhat to keep in mind

Safi suits people who like watching things get made and prefer a working town to a polished one. If you want nightlife or a long beach stay, skip it. I would come for one night, buy pottery straight from a workshop, and move on.

✈️ When did I visit Morocco?
In October 2011, I backpacked Morocco for two weeks, with climbing the Mount Toubkal in summer clothing as a highlight.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Morocco, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

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