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Argentina🇦🇷 | hikesPaso de las NubesTronador glaciers, cloud-level pass, two-day traverse, alerce forest | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Paso de las Nubes
👍 Recommendedhike ranked #7
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

Paso de las Nubes is a two-day, one-way hike that ends at a lake dock, and the last boat ride out of Puerto Frías is what many first-timers forget to plan around. The trail sits in the Nahuel Huapi National Park in the southwest of Argentina, west of Bariloche. Getting to Pampa Linda takes a long gravel road. On my way in, the minibus stopped for a herd of cattle that wandered down the track, and the driver simply waited for them to pass. Book the shuttle and the Rocca bed before you leave town, and carry cash for the park fee. Skip Puerto Frías if you have no onward ticket. The 26 km are moderate, with a pass above the clouds and a long finish through forest. Hikers with a tent and a plan will like it most. Anyone wanting a loop or a quick day out won't.

Discover everything you want to know in the 📖 Argentina Travel Guide.
Best time to go: October - March
Duration: 2 days
Distance: 26 kilometers
Total ascent: 1100 meters


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✨ Why go?
Ranked #7 hike in Argentina
The unique appeal for travelers

Paso de las Nubes asks for only two days, yet it crosses the Continental Divide area on the way to Chile's side of the border, which makes it one of the most complete short traverses in Patagonia. You start under the black face of Monte Tronador, climb to the pass with glaciers hanging on the ridge, and drop through Río Alerce valley into thick Valdivian forest. That change in vegetation within 26 km is the real pull.

It also works as a link in a longer route. From Puerto Frías you can continue by boat and border crossing toward Chile, so the hike becomes the bridge between Bariloche and the Lake District on the other side. Camping near the refuge keeps costs low, and the route is point to point, so you never retrace a step.

💡 HighlightsKey sights and experiences for travelers

  1. Paso de las Nubes Pass: The high saddle that gives the trek its name. Cloud often pours through it from the west, and on clear days you look straight at the glaciers of Tronador.
  2. Monte Tronador Views: The extinct volcano dominates the first day. Its ice hangs in blue walls and you can hear it calve and rumble, which explains the name Thunderer.
  3. Pampa Linda Trailhead: A flat meadow where the route begins, with a small campground and a ranger post. Condors sometimes circle over the valley walls here.
  4. Refugio Agostino Rocca: The overnight stop, set at the foot of the climb. It has beds, a camping area and simple meals, and the evening light on the surrounding peaks is worth the early arrival.
  5. Río Alerce Valley and Footbridge: The descent follows this river through deep green forest of coihue and
… read more 👉
  1. Paso de las Nubes Pass: The high saddle that gives the trek its name. Cloud often pours through it from the west, and on clear days you look straight at the glaciers of Tronador.
  2. Monte Tronador Views: The extinct volcano dominates the first day. Its ice hangs in blue walls and you can hear it calve and rumble, which explains the name Thunderer.
  3. Pampa Linda Trailhead: A flat meadow where the route begins, with a small campground and a ranger post. Condors sometimes circle over the valley walls here.
  4. Refugio Agostino Rocca: The overnight stop, set at the foot of the climb. It has beds, a camping area and simple meals, and the evening light on the surrounding peaks is worth the early arrival.
  5. Río Alerce Valley and Footbridge: The descent follows this river through deep green forest of coihue and ancient alerce. The river is crossed on a pedestrian footbridge, so there is no wading.
Pampa Linda is the cheapest item, since walking the meadow and viewing the mountain costs nothing beyond the park entry you already pay.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near Paso de las Nubes

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🌤️ When to go?Best time to hike the Paso de las Nubes

The best window for Paso de las Nubes is mid-December to March, when the trail from Pampa Linda to Puerto Frías is snow-free and the refuge is open.
  • Summer (Dec to Feb): Days reach 15 to 24°C (59 to 75°F), nights drop to 3 to 8°C (37 to 46°F). Daylight runs about 15 hours. Crowds and prices peak in January.
  • Early Autumn (March to April): Cooler at 8 to 17°C (46 to 63°F), with lenga forests turning red and orange. Fewer hikers, easier bookings, and rain becomes more likely.
  • Late Spring (Nov): Snow can linger on the high pass, and river levels run high from meltwater. Expect cold nights and quiet trails.
  • Winter (June to Sept): Heavy snow, short days of about 9 hours, and temperatures around -5 to 5°C (23 to 41°F). Not suited to backpacking.
Book Rocca and the Puerto Frías boat connection weeks ahead … read more 👉
The best window for Paso de las Nubes is mid-December to March, when the trail from Pampa Linda to Puerto Frías is snow-free and the refuge is open.
  • Summer (Dec to Feb): Days reach 15 to 24°C (59 to 75°F), nights drop to 3 to 8°C (37 to 46°F). Daylight runs about 15 hours. Crowds and prices peak in January.
  • Early Autumn (March to April): Cooler at 8 to 17°C (46 to 63°F), with lenga forests turning red and orange. Fewer hikers, easier bookings, and rain becomes more likely.
  • Late Spring (Nov): Snow can linger on the high pass, and river levels run high from meltwater. Expect cold nights and quiet trails.
  • Winter (June to Sept): Heavy snow, short days of about 9 hours, and temperatures around -5 to 5°C (23 to 41°F). Not suited to backpacking.
Book Rocca and the Puerto Frías boat connection weeks ahead for January, or go in early March for similar weather with fewer people.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: fair for travelingMAYMay: below average for travelingJUNJune: below average for travelingJULJuly: below average for travelingAUGAugust: below average for travelingSEPSeptember: fair for travelingOCTOctober: good for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling
argentina-hike-paso-de-las-nubes
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🛏️ Where to stay?Where staying makes the most sense

If you enjoy meeting fellow travelers, consider choosing hostels with high ratings for atmosphere. On the other hand, if you prefer having your own space, a hotel might be a better option.

🥾 Hike detailsA practical overview of the hike

Paso de las Nubes: a two-day, point-to-point trek through Nahuel Huapi National Park.
Total Distance: about 26 km, split into two stages.
  • Day 1: Pampa Linda to Refugio Agostino Rocca, 14 km.
  • Day 2: Rocca to Puerto Frías, 12 km.
Estimated Duration: 2 days, with about 6 to 7 hours of walking on the first day and 5 to 6 on the second.
Difficulty: Moderate. The climb to the pass is steady and long, and the descent is rocky in places.
Starting Point: Pampa Linda, reached by gravel road from Bariloche, with shuttle services running from town in season.
Major Landmarks:
  • Pampa Linda: Trailhead meadow beneath
… read more 👉
Paso de las Nubes: a two-day, point-to-point trek through Nahuel Huapi National Park.
Total Distance: about 26 km, split into two stages.
  • Day 1: Pampa Linda to Refugio Agostino Rocca, 14 km.
  • Day 2: Rocca to Puerto Frías, 12 km.
Estimated Duration: 2 days, with about 6 to 7 hours of walking on the first day and 5 to 6 on the second.
Difficulty: Moderate. The climb to the pass is steady and long, and the descent is rocky in places.
Starting Point: Pampa Linda, reached by gravel road from Bariloche, with shuttle services running from town in season.
Major Landmarks:
  • Pampa Linda: Trailhead meadow beneath Tronador.
  • Refugio Agostino Rocca: Overnight shelter and campsite.
  • Paso de las Nubes: The high pass with glacier views.
  • Río Alerce: Crossed by a pedestrian footbridge.
  • Puerto Frías: The finish, with a small border post and lake access.
Terrain and Scenery: Open valley floor, then switchbacks over rock and scree to the pass, followed by a long, often muddy forest descent along the river.
Vegetation: Lenga and coihue forest, alpine meadows near the top and dense, humid Valdivian rainforest with ferns and bamboo near the end.
Wildlife: Andean condors, Magellanic woodpeckers, foxes and the occasional huemul deer.
⚠️ Hiking info can sometimes be outdated or inaccurate. Before you hit the trail, check the latest conditions with locals. If you do spot anything that's off, I'd love to hear from you, so I can update it for fellow travelers.

🛡️ SafetyTraveler Safety Guide

This is a well-trodden two-day route, and most problems come from weather and underpreparation rather than dangers on the trail. Conditions in the Nahuel Huapi range change fast: a sunny morning in Pampa Linda can turn into cold rain or wind on the pass, so pack waterproofs, a warm layer and gloves even in summer. The Río Alerce is crossed on a footbridge, so you won’t need to wade. The climb toward the pass is steady and the descent to Puerto Frías is long and rocky, so poles help your knees. Start early, because the second day is the longer one at 12 km. Rangers register hikers, so sign in and out. Wildlife is minimal; store food away from your tent to keep mice and foxes out. Carry enough water treatment and cash for the refuge.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Paso de las Nubes takes two days, covering about 14 km from Pampa Linda to Refugio Agostino Rocca and a further 12 km to Puerto Frías. Most hikers spend the night at Rocca, then walk the second stretch in roughly 5 to 7 hours. From Puerto Frías you continue by boat and short road transfer toward Lake Nahuel Huapi.
Paso de las Nubes is moderate: the 26 km total is manageable for reasonably fit hikers carrying overnight gear. The ascent past Rocca toward the pass is steady rather than technical, and the descent to Puerto Frías is long on rocky ground. The Río Alerce is crossed by footbridge, but sudden wind, rain and cold can slow you down in any month.
Paso de las Nubes needs no guide, but you must register with the park rangers at Pampa Linda and carry your own gear or book a bed at Refugio Agostino Rocca. Entry to the Nahuel Huapi area costs roughly US$10 to 25 for foreigners, and refuge beds run about US$20 to 40 a night. Reserve Rocca ahead in January and February, since space fills quickly.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Argentine hikes near Paso de las Nubes

Explore more nearby:

  • Cerro Tronador—Black Glacier, ice-fall thunder, lenga forest, Refugio Otto Meiling
  • Refugio Frey—Laguna Tonchek, climbers' hut, Frey Needles, Villa Catedral start| 24 km away
  • Laguna Llancanelo—Wetland reserve, flamingo colonies, flat terrain, Mendoza steppe| 669 km away

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We 💚 feedbackFinal thoughts on hiking the Paso de las Nubes

Paso de las Nubes ends in a damp forest corridor that most people rush through while watching the clock for the boat. I would leave the pass early on day two so that stretch along the Río Alerce becomes a pleasant walk instead of a sprint, and I would pack a spare pair of dry socks.

✈️ When did I visit Argentina?
I have visited Argentina, together with Chile, in September 2012.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Argentina, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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