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The Bahamas🇧🇸 | regionsLittle ExumaTropic of Cancer line, salt ponds, Loyalist ruins, beach shacks | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Little Exuma
🌟 Highlightregion ranked #4
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 20, 2026

The big decision on Little Exuma is whether to rent a car or lean on taxis and your feet, and the answer is a car, because the single road runs about 15 miles and everything worth seeing hangs off it. Little Exuma sits in the southern Bahamas, joined to Great Exuma by a short bridge at Ferry. Expect quiet settlements like Forbes Hill and William’s Town, empty beaches, salt ponds, and rum punch at a beach shack. Nightlife is thin and shops are few, so stock up in George Town first. Go to Tropic of Cancer Beach on a weekday morning and you may have the sand to yourself, with water clear enough to read your own toes. Unlike Great Exuma, which has the supermarkets, the ferry to Stocking Island and most of the resorts, Little Exuma feels like the part where the island actually relaxes.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #4 region in The Bahamas
Why Little Exuma should be on your travel list

Little Exuma rewards backpackers who want a small, walkable-feeling island where the day is built around the water. The whole stretch is narrow, so a morning snorkel, an afternoon at a ruin and a sunset at a beach bar can happen without a second thought about transport. The Tropic of Cancer Beach and the quiet shoreline at Pelican Beach give you swimming that costs nothing, and the island’s history sits right beside them. Old Loyalist-era plantation ruins and the salt-raking past of the south end explain why settlements like Forbes Hill look the way they do. Because the main road is the only road, slow travel is easy: pull over wherever a gate, a path or a hand-painted sign catches you. Nights are for cooking on a hostel-style rental stove or eating conch at a local spot, then watching stars with almost no light pollution.

💡 HighlightsTop highlights of Little Exuma

  1. Tropic of Cancer Beach: a wide, pale-sand beach marked by a line through the sand showing the Tropic of Cancer. The water stays shallow and turquoise, and it is the sight people search for first.
  2. Pelican Beach: a calmer stretch near the south end where you can wade out far and spot rays and small fish close to shore.
  3. Hermit’s Cave area and Forbes Hill: a small hillside settlement with views over the water and a slow, residential feel that few day visitors explore.
  4. Williams Town Salt Beacon: a stone beacon recalling the days when salt raking and shipping defined the island economy, a quick roadside stop for history.
  5. Hermitage Plantation ruins: weathered limestone walls from Loyalist-era estates, atmospheric and quiet, best in morning light.
  6. Rolle Town tombs: old settlement burial sites and small
… read more 👉
  1. Tropic of Cancer Beach: a wide, pale-sand beach marked by a line through the sand showing the Tropic of Cancer. The water stays shallow and turquoise, and it is the sight people search for first.
  2. Pelican Beach: a calmer stretch near the south end where you can wade out far and spot rays and small fish close to shore.
  3. Hermit’s Cave area and Forbes Hill: a small hillside settlement with views over the water and a slow, residential feel that few day visitors explore.
  4. Williams Town Salt Beacon: a stone beacon recalling the days when salt raking and shipping defined the island economy, a quick roadside stop for history.
  5. Hermitage Plantation ruins: weathered limestone walls from Loyalist-era estates, atmospheric and quiet, best in morning light.
  6. Rolle Town tombs: old settlement burial sites and small chapels that tell the story of freed families who stayed on the land.
  7. Pretty Molly Bay Beach: a curved bay with soft sand and a short path in, often nearly empty, and a place locals love for picnics.
  8. Santanna’s Bar and Grill: a casual beachfront stop for cracked conch and cold drinks, with a view of the water from the porch.
  9. Ferry Bridge: the small span joining Little Exuma to Great Exuma, good for watching boats pass and for a quick sunrise stroll.
  10. Salt pond shoreline: flat, mirrored ponds along the road where wading birds feed in the early morning.
For a first visit on Little Exuma, start at Tropic of Cancer Beach, since it gives you the clearest water and the easiest swim.
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Things to do around Little Exuma

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⌛️ 5 daysSeeing the highlights in 5 days

Pace the days around the heat: walk or ride early, spend midday in the water or under a porch, and move again after three. Transport is one road with few taxis, so a rental car or a pre-arranged driver dictates everything.
Day 1: Ferry Bridge: Arrive and settle in, then walk the bridge and nearby shore in the cooler evening. This keeps the first day gentle and lets you learn the road before driving it.
Day 2: Tropic of Cancer Beach: Go early before wind and visitors build. Swim, then drive to Pelican Beach for a second, quieter dip. The beaches sit close, so you lose no time shuttling and keep the afternoon free for a rest.
Day 3: Forbes Hill and Williams Town: Spend the day on the historical side: the salt beacon, the hillside settlement and the plantation walls. Visiting inland sites in the … read more 👉
Pace the days around the heat: walk or ride early, spend midday in the water or under a porch, and move again after three. Transport is one road with few taxis, so a rental car or a pre-arranged driver dictates everything.
Day 1: Ferry Bridge: Arrive and settle in, then walk the bridge and nearby shore in the cooler evening. This keeps the first day gentle and lets you learn the road before driving it.
Day 2: Tropic of Cancer Beach: Go early before wind and visitors build. Swim, then drive to Pelican Beach for a second, quieter dip. The beaches sit close, so you lose no time shuttling and keep the afternoon free for a rest.
Day 3: Forbes Hill and Williams Town: Spend the day on the historical side: the salt beacon, the hillside settlement and the plantation walls. Visiting inland sites in the morning and returning to the shore in the afternoon beats the midday sun.
Day 4: Pretty Molly Bay: Pack a picnic and stay long. Detour: drive back toward Great Exuma for a snack and supplies, then return for sunset, a short trip that adds variety without breaking the plan.
Day 5: Tropic of Cancer Beach: Day 2 is the one that justifies the trip, so repeat it on departure morning for a last swim when the water is calm and glassy.

🌤️ When to go?Choosing the right time of year

Little Exuma is at its best from December to April, when daytime highs sit around 25 to 28°C (77 to 82°F) and the trade winds keep the beaches comfortable.
  • Winter (December to April): Dry, breezy and clear, with nights of 18 to 21°C (64 to 70°F). Daylight lasts about 11 to 12 hours. Rooms and rental cars cost the most, often 30 to 50 percent above summer rates, and the beaches at Hoopers Bay and Tropic of Cancer Beach are busiest in March.
  • Summer (May to October): Hot and humid at 29 to 33°C (84 to 91°F), with sea temperatures near 29°C (84°F) and a 13 to 14 hour daylight window. Prices drop, crowds thin, and some small eateries close for weeks. Mosquitoes and sand flies are worst after rain.
  • Hurricane Peak (August to October): Storm risk is highest in September and October, and flights can be
… read more 👉
Little Exuma is at its best from December to April, when daytime highs sit around 25 to 28°C (77 to 82°F) and the trade winds keep the beaches comfortable.
  • Winter (December to April): Dry, breezy and clear, with nights of 18 to 21°C (64 to 70°F). Daylight lasts about 11 to 12 hours. Rooms and rental cars cost the most, often 30 to 50 percent above summer rates, and the beaches at Hoopers Bay and Tropic of Cancer Beach are busiest in March.
  • Summer (May to October): Hot and humid at 29 to 33°C (84 to 91°F), with sea temperatures near 29°C (84°F) and a 13 to 14 hour daylight window. Prices drop, crowds thin, and some small eateries close for weeks. Mosquitoes and sand flies are worst after rain.
  • Hurricane Peak (August to October): Storm risk is highest in September and October, and flights can be canceled at short notice.
  • Early Spring Events: Exuma Regatta-style sailing races draw crowds to George Town on Great Exuma in April, which can fill rooms on Little Exuma too.
Book in late November or early May to get warm weather with lower rates.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: excellent for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: fair for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: below average for travelingOCTOctober: fair for travelingNOVNovember: highly recommended for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas and accommodation options

Hoopers Bay and the Ferry area at the bridge are the most practical places to stay on Little Exuma, since both put you within a short drive of the island’s main beaches. This is a quiet, sparsely developed island, so backpacker infrastructure is thin and most budget travelers split time with Great Exuma.
Ferry sits right where the bridge links the two islands. It is the best base for meeting other travelers, because small guesthouses and rental houses cluster here and you can reach Hoopers Bay and George Town without driving far. Evenings are calm, and the walk to the water is short.
Williams Town … read more 👉
Hoopers Bay and the Ferry area at the bridge are the most practical places to stay on Little Exuma, since both put you within a short drive of the island’s main beaches. This is a quiet, sparsely developed island, so backpacker infrastructure is thin and most budget travelers split time with Great Exuma.
Ferry sits right where the bridge links the two islands. It is the best base for meeting other travelers, because small guesthouses and rental houses cluster here and you can reach Hoopers Bay and George Town without driving far. Evenings are calm, and the walk to the water is short.
Williams Town and the southern settlements suit those who want silence and local company. Rooms are fewer and rentals are usually private houses or apartments, so book ahead in winter. The reward is salt ponds, empty roads and a night sky with almost no light pollution.
George Town, on Great Exuma about 45 to 60 minutes away by car, is the social hub. It has the widest choice of budget rooms, grocery stores, bars and boat trips, and it is where solo travelers meet. It is also safe and easy to move around after dark. Use it as a base and cross over to Little Exuma for the beaches.

🚌 Getting aroundHow to get from A to B

A taxi ride on Little Exuma typically costs US$15 to 30 for a short hop, paid in cash, and US dollars are accepted everywhere alongside Bahamian dollars at par. Most backpackers rent a car or scooter, because the island is only about 19 kilometers (12 miles) long, and a single road, Queen’s Highway, runs its full length from the bridge at Ferry to Forbes Hill. That road is reliable and quiet, though there is no public transit.
  • Rental Car: Expect US$80 to 130 a day, and book ahead in winter because the fleet is small. Drive on the left, mind the potholes, and pull over at the salt ponds near Williams Town, where pink flamingo-colored water glows in late afternoon.
  • Taxi: Rides from the Great Exuma airport near George Town to Little Exuma run about US$60 to 90 for the 45 to 60 minute drive. Share
… read more 👉
A taxi ride on Little Exuma typically costs US$15 to 30 for a short hop, paid in cash, and US dollars are accepted everywhere alongside Bahamian dollars at par. Most backpackers rent a car or scooter, because the island is only about 19 kilometers (12 miles) long, and a single road, Queen’s Highway, runs its full length from the bridge at Ferry to Forbes Hill. That road is reliable and quiet, though there is no public transit.
  • Rental Car: Expect US$80 to 130 a day, and book ahead in winter because the fleet is small. Drive on the left, mind the potholes, and pull over at the salt ponds near Williams Town, where pink flamingo-colored water glows in late afternoon.
  • Taxi: Rides from the Great Exuma airport near George Town to Little Exuma run about US$60 to 90 for the 45 to 60 minute drive. Share with other travelers to cut the cost, and ask your driver to point out the beach with the Tropic of Cancer marker, a sandy stop that turns a transfer into a sightseeing tour.
  • Scooter or Bicycle: Scooters rent for roughly US$50 to 70 a day, and bikes for US$20 to 30 where available. The road is flat, so a morning ride to Pelican Beach lets you swim before the midday heat sets in.
  • Hitching and Local Rides: Residents often offer lifts to those walking along the road, and a small tip or a thank-you is the custom. You will probably get a story about the island along with the ride.
  • Boat Charter: Local captains run trips to nearby cays for about US$100 to 200 a person, with snorkeling stops and a beach lunch. Go early, when the water is glassy and the sandbars are empty.
Fill your tank in George Town before crossing, since stations on Little Exuma are scarce, and plan beach stops for early morning or late afternoon when the light is soft and the road is nearly empty.

🚌 Day tripsShort trips worth adding

Little Exuma is a backpacker’s dream base, offering easy access to some of the most stunning spots in The Bahamas. The laid-back vibe of the island sets the stage for unforgettable day trips that blend adventure with relaxation.

Swim with Pigs at Pig Beach
This iconic experience is a must. A short boat ride from Little Exuma, you’ll find yourself surrounded by friendly pigs splashing in the turquoise waters. The trip takes about 30 minutes, and you can expect to pay around $150 for a group tour. The best time to go is early morning to avoid the crowds. A common mistake is underestimating the sun; bring plenty of sunscreen and a hat. The joy of watching these pigs frolic is worth every penny.
👉 Explore Pig Beach

Visit the Thunderball Grotto
Famous for its role in James Bond films, this … read more 👉
Little Exuma is a backpacker’s dream base, offering easy access to some of the most stunning spots in The Bahamas. The laid-back vibe of the island sets the stage for unforgettable day trips that blend adventure with relaxation.

Swim with Pigs at Pig Beach
This iconic experience is a must. A short boat ride from Little Exuma, you’ll find yourself surrounded by friendly pigs splashing in the turquoise waters. The trip takes about 30 minutes, and you can expect to pay around $150 for a group tour. The best time to go is early morning to avoid the crowds. A common mistake is underestimating the sun; bring plenty of sunscreen and a hat. The joy of watching these pigs frolic is worth every penny.
👉 Explore Pig Beach

Visit the Thunderball Grotto
Famous for its role in James Bond films, this underwater cave system is a snorkeling paradise. It’s about a 20-minute boat ride from Little Exuma. Expect to spend around $50 for a snorkeling tour. The best time to visit is during low tide when the light filters in beautifully. Many first-timers miss the entrance; look for the small opening on the east side of the grotto. The vibrant marine life will leave you breathless.


Explore Stocking Island
Just a quick ferry ride away, Stocking Island offers pristine beaches and a laid-back atmosphere. The trip takes about 15 minutes and costs around $20 round trip. Aim for a weekday visit to avoid the weekend crowds. A common mistake is not bringing enough water; the heat can be intense. Spend the day lounging on the beach or hiking the trails for stunning views.


Discover the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park
This protected area is a treasure trove of biodiversity. A full-day boat tour from Little Exuma will set you back about $120, but the experience is priceless. The best time to go is during the dry season, from December to April. Many backpackers overlook the importance of booking in advance; spots fill up quickly. The vibrant coral reefs and unique wildlife make this trip a highlight.
👉 Explore Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park

🍲 FoodEating & Drinking in Little Exuma

Little Exuma’s food is built around conch, and the freshest is served as conch salad: raw conch chopped with tomato, onion, pepper and a squeeze of sour orange and lime. You will smell the citrus before you see the stand. Cracked conch is fried until crisp and golden, and grilled lobster (in season, August to March) comes smoky and sweet.
Sides matter here. Peas and rice is cooked with pigeon peas and thyme, johnnycake is dense and slightly sweet, and macaroni and cheese is baked firm enough to slice. Wash it down with a Kalik beer, a rum punch, or sky juice, a mix of coconut water, gin and condensed milk.
Eating is casual. Expect beach shacks, roadside stands and small settlement bars around Hoopers Bay, with plates for roughly US$12 to 25. Many places are cash only, and kitchens can take 30 … read more 👉
Little Exuma’s food is built around conch, and the freshest is served as conch salad: raw conch chopped with tomato, onion, pepper and a squeeze of sour orange and lime. You will smell the citrus before you see the stand. Cracked conch is fried until crisp and golden, and grilled lobster (in season, August to March) comes smoky and sweet.
Sides matter here. Peas and rice is cooked with pigeon peas and thyme, johnnycake is dense and slightly sweet, and macaroni and cheese is baked firm enough to slice. Wash it down with a Kalik beer, a rum punch, or sky juice, a mix of coconut water, gin and condensed milk.
Eating is casual. Expect beach shacks, roadside stands and small settlement bars around Hoopers Bay, with plates for roughly US$12 to 25. Many places are cash only, and kitchens can take 30 to 45 minutes, so order, then settle in with a drink and talk. Few places open late, and some close entirely in summer, so check ahead.
Greet people when you walk in. A simple “good afternoon” is expected, and rushing the table is not. Groceries are pricey because everything arrives by boat, so buy basics in George Town if you are self-catering.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Three days is enough for Little Exuma, though many backpackers pair it with Great Exuma for five to seven. In three days you can cover Hoopers Bay, Tropic of Cancer Beach, Pelican Beach and the salt ponds near Williams Town, plus one boat trip to the nearby cays for roughly US$100 to 200.
Renting a car or scooter is the easiest way to get around Little Exuma, since there is no public transit and one road, Queen’s Highway, runs the island’s length of about 19 kilometers (12 miles). Cars cost about US$80 to 130 a day and scooters US$50 to 70, while taxis from George Town take 45 to 60 minutes and cost about US$60 to 90. Locals often give lifts to walkers.
Little Exuma is known for its quiet white-sand beaches, clear turquoise water and the Tropic of Cancer Beach, where a marker shows the line of latitude. Hoopers Bay draws visitors for sunsets and Pelican Beach for calm swimming, while the salt ponds near Williams Town add a different landscape. The island also has fresh conch salad and a settlement history tied to salt raking and the old Pigeon Cay Plantation.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Bahamian regions near Little Exuma

Explore more nearby:

  • Exuma—Swimming pigs, nurse sharks, Thunderball Grotto, Georgetown fish fry| 24 km away
  • Long Island—Dean’s Blue Hole, Father Jerome churches, Queens Highway, straw work| 57 km away
  • Rum Cay—Coral wall diving, HMS Conqueror wreck, Port Nelson, salt flats| 84 km away

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We 💚 feedbackWhat to keep in mind

Little Exuma’s salt ponds are easy to drive past, yet at dawn they hold wading birds and a flat, mirror-like light that most visitors never see. I would set an alarm once, bring a thermos of coffee and park at the roadside. Stock up on groceries before crossing the bridge.

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The information on this page is based on in-depth research, insights shared by experienced travelers, and feedback from the local travel community in The Bahamas. While every effort is made to keep the information accurate and current, conditions can change — so if you spot anything incorrect or outdated, please get in touch.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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