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Colombia🇨🇴 | national parksEl Cocuy National ParkGlacier views, three guided day trails, high lakes, Boyacá highlands | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in El Cocuy
🏆 Top picknational park ranked #4
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

Book your trail slot with a local guide in El Cocuy town and you skip the scramble of sorting permits at the trailhead. El Cocuy National Park sits in the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy in the northeast of Colombia, in the Boyacá highlands. The payoff is glacier-capped peaks, frailejón fields and lakes at 4,000 meters or more, with few crowds. Skip the idea of multi-day circuits and summits, which are closed, and don’t waste a day chasing Laguna de la Plaza. Only three day trails are open, so arrive with the right expectations and a flexible schedule. Roads are rough and the town is a long bus ride from anywhere, so build in a buffer day. I filled my water bottle at the guide office before the 4 a.m. jeep and was glad of it, since the trailheads have no shops. Know before going: the trails require a registered guide and must be arranged in town the day before.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #4 national park in Colombia
Why El Cocuy should be on your travel list

El Cocuy National Park suits travelers who want high-Andean scenery without a tour-bus crowd. The reason most people come is the compact choice of three open day walks, so you can fit in a different landscape each day from town. Laguna Grande de la Sierra gives you a glacial lake under ice walls, Ritacuba Blanco climbs through frailejón-covered páramo to a glacier view, and Púlpito del Diablo brings you beneath a dramatic rock tower. Each can be done in a day, so you never carry a heavy pack or camp at altitude.

The other draw is the setting. The towns of El Cocuy and Güicán, with Güicán to the north, are working farm villages where you eat with locals and sleep in simple places. Guides are mandatory, which sounds restrictive, but they know the weather windows, the rules about ice, and the … read more 👉
El Cocuy National Park suits travelers who want high-Andean scenery without a tour-bus crowd. The reason most people come is the compact choice of three open day walks, so you can fit in a different landscape each day from town. Laguna Grande de la Sierra gives you a glacial lake under ice walls, Ritacuba Blanco climbs through frailejón-covered páramo to a glacier view, and Púlpito del Diablo brings you beneath a dramatic rock tower. Each can be done in a day, so you never carry a heavy pack or camp at altitude.

The other draw is the setting. The towns of El Cocuy and Güicán, with Güicán to the north, are working farm villages where you eat with locals and sleep in simple places. Guides are mandatory, which sounds restrictive, but they know the weather windows, the rules about ice, and the quiet corners of the trail. You still choose your pace and which valley to walk, which keeps the trip feeling independent.

💡 HighlightsThe experiences that define the visit

  1. Laguna Grande de la Sierra: the park’s signature walk, to a big glacial lake below the ice-covered Pan de Azúcar and other peaks, across páramo and rocky moraine.
  2. Ritacuba Blanco trail: a climb through frailejón fields and bogs to a viewpoint facing the park’s highest massif and its glacier. Summiting is forbidden, so the trail stops at the viewpoint.
  3. Púlpito del Diablo: a steep trail to the foot of a tall rock tower, with wide views over the valley and the glaciers beyond.
  4. Frailejón páramo: the silver-haired, velvety plants that cover the high slopes and carry water into the valleys. They are fragile, so stay on the path.
  5. Sierra Nevada del Cocuy glaciers: the long, snowy ridge visible from every open trail. Walking on the snow is not allowed, but the views from the lakes and viewpoints are close.
… read more 👉
  1. Laguna Grande de la Sierra: the park’s signature walk, to a big glacial lake below the ice-covered Pan de Azúcar and other peaks, across páramo and rocky moraine.
  2. Ritacuba Blanco trail: a climb through frailejón fields and bogs to a viewpoint facing the park’s highest massif and its glacier. Summiting is forbidden, so the trail stops at the viewpoint.
  3. Púlpito del Diablo: a steep trail to the foot of a tall rock tower, with wide views over the valley and the glaciers beyond.
  4. Frailejón páramo: the silver-haired, velvety plants that cover the high slopes and carry water into the valleys. They are fragile, so stay on the path.
  5. Sierra Nevada del Cocuy glaciers: the long, snowy ridge visible from every open trail. Walking on the snow is not allowed, but the views from the lakes and viewpoints are close.
  6. Güicán: the town north of El Cocuy where many trips start, with a plaza, simple restaurants and a relaxed farm-town pace.
  7. El Cocuy town: the white colonial village where you register with guides, with a plaza and cafés that fill up with hikers before dawn.
El Cocuy National Park is best met first at Laguna Grande de la Sierra, since its lake, glacier backdrop and páramo cover everything the park is known for in one day.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near El Cocuy National Park

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🌤️ When to go?When to go for the best experience

  • Dry Season (December to March): The most reliable window for clear mornings and open views of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy. Days reach 12 to 16°C (54 to 61°F) in the valleys, while Laguna Grande de la Sierra sits near 0 to 8°C (32 to 46°F) at night. Colombian holiday crowds peak around New Year, and lodging and guide fees rise then.
  • Short Dry Spell (July to August): A second, less steady window with good trail conditions and strong winds on the high ridges. Domestic school holidays bring weekend crowds to Güicán and El Cocuy.
  • Wet Months (April to June, September to November): Afternoon downpours and cloud often hide the glaciers by midday. Trails turn muddy and the páramo is cold, with highs of 8 to 12°C (46 to 54°F) near the trailheads. Rooms are cheaper and the trails are quiet.
Start hikes … read more 👉
  • Dry Season (December to March): The most reliable window for clear mornings and open views of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy. Days reach 12 to 16°C (54 to 61°F) in the valleys, while Laguna Grande de la Sierra sits near 0 to 8°C (32 to 46°F) at night. Colombian holiday crowds peak around New Year, and lodging and guide fees rise then.
  • Short Dry Spell (July to August): A second, less steady window with good trail conditions and strong winds on the high ridges. Domestic school holidays bring weekend crowds to Güicán and El Cocuy.
  • Wet Months (April to June, September to November): Afternoon downpours and cloud often hide the glaciers by midday. Trails turn muddy and the páramo is cold, with highs of 8 to 12°C (46 to 54°F) near the trailheads. Rooms are cheaper and the trails are quiet.
Start hikes at first light in any season, since cloud usually builds by late morning.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: good for travelingMAYMay: fair for travelingJUNJune: fair for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: fair for travelingOCTOctober: fair for travelingNOVNovember: good for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling

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🛏️ Where to stay?Where staying makes the most sense

The best choice is a guesthouse or hostel in El Cocuy town or Güicán, since nothing inside the park is open to backpackers except a few farm-style lodges near the trailheads.
El Cocuy town is a whitewashed colonial village with the widest choice of simple hostels and family-run hospedajes, from about US$10 to 15 for a dorm or basic room. It is the usual starting point for Púlpito del Diablo and Laguna Grande de la Sierra. Many places serve early breakfast so you can leave before dawn.
Güicán lies north of El Cocuy town and is closer to Ritacuba Blanco. It is a bit livelier, with more small restaurants … read more 👉
The best choice is a guesthouse or hostel in El Cocuy town or Güicán, since nothing inside the park is open to backpackers except a few farm-style lodges near the trailheads.
El Cocuy town is a whitewashed colonial village with the widest choice of simple hostels and family-run hospedajes, from about US$10 to 15 for a dorm or basic room. It is the usual starting point for Púlpito del Diablo and Laguna Grande de la Sierra. Many places serve early breakfast so you can leave before dawn.
Güicán lies north of El Cocuy town and is closer to Ritacuba Blanco. It is a bit livelier, with more small restaurants and a plaza that fills on weekends. Rooms run roughly US$12 to 20.
For a shorter morning approach, several rural lodges and farm stays sit along the access roads toward the trailheads, often US$15 to 30 including meals. Some have fires and hot showers, which matter at around 3,500 meters (11,500 feet).
Book ahead around New Year and Easter. Outside holidays you can usually walk in and bargain a little for stays of three nights or more.

👛 Costs (as of 19 October 2026)Money, prices, and spending tips

Budget about US$45 to 85 per day for El Cocuy National Park, including the entrance fee, guide share, a bed and meals.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Entrance feeUS$6 to 20Foreign visitors pay more than Colombians, and the fee is paid at the park office in town when you register for a trail.
GuideUS$15 to 25A certified guide is required on the open trails. The cost per person drops when you split it in a group.
Accommodation (high season)US$10 to 25Dorms and simple rooms in El Cocuy and Güicán. Prices rise around New Year and Easter.
Local transportUS$4 to 15Shared jeeps (camperos) to trailheads and between the towns. Private jeep hire costs more.
Food and suppliesUS$10 to 20Set lunches (corrientazos) cost US$3 to 5. Pack snacks and water for the trail, since there are no shops along the routes.
… read more 👉
Budget about US$45 to 85 per day for El Cocuy National Park, including the entrance fee, guide share, a bed and meals.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Entrance feeUS$6 to 20Foreign visitors pay more than Colombians, and the fee is paid at the park office in town when you register for a trail.
GuideUS$15 to 25A certified guide is required on the open trails. The cost per person drops when you split it in a group.
Accommodation (high season)US$10 to 25Dorms and simple rooms in El Cocuy and Güicán. Prices rise around New Year and Easter.
Local transportUS$4 to 15Shared jeeps (camperos) to trailheads and between the towns. Private jeep hire costs more.
Food and suppliesUS$10 to 20Set lunches (corrientazos) cost US$3 to 5. Pack snacks and water for the trail, since there are no shops along the routes.
Total Daily BudgetUS$45 to 85Roughly US$65 on a typical high-season day. Travelers pay in Colombian pesos, and ATMs in the towns are few, so bring cash.


source: parquesnacionales.gov.co
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🥾 TrailsDiscover El Cocuy's top trails and natural wonders

El Cocuy National Park has three open day trails, all done with a registered guide, and each shows a different side of the high Andes.
  • Laguna Grande de la Sierra: Moderate to hard day walk of roughly 6 to 8 hours round trip. It crosses páramo and rocky ground to a large glacial lake at the foot of ice-covered peaks. Expect thin air and bogs.
  • Ritacuba Blanco: Moderate to hard, about 5 to 7 hours round trip. A steady climb through frailejón and bog to a viewpoint near the glacier. Going onto the snow or to the summit is forbidden.
  • Púlpito del Diablo: Moderate, around 4 to 6 hours round trip. A steep
… read more 👉
El Cocuy National Park has three open day trails, all done with a registered guide, and each shows a different side of the high Andes.
  • Laguna Grande de la Sierra: Moderate to hard day walk of roughly 6 to 8 hours round trip. It crosses páramo and rocky ground to a large glacial lake at the foot of ice-covered peaks. Expect thin air and bogs.
  • Ritacuba Blanco: Moderate to hard, about 5 to 7 hours round trip. A steady climb through frailejón and bog to a viewpoint near the glacier. Going onto the snow or to the summit is forbidden.
  • Púlpito del Diablo: Moderate, around 4 to 6 hours round trip. A steep path to a rock formation with sweeping views of the valley and the snowy ridge.
Terrain is wet, muddy and high, usually above 4,000 meters, so acclimatize in town for a day or two first. Wildlife is modest and shy: Andean condors are sometimes seen overhead, and you may spot spectacled bears’ signs or small páramo birds. Laguna de la Plaza and multi-day circuits are not open, so plan around the three day trails.

Getting there takes a long bus ride from Bogotá or Bucaramanga to El Cocuy or Güicán, then a jeep to the trailhead, which your guide arranges. Crowds stay thin outside Colombian holidays, but trail numbers are controlled. Entry requires a ticket plus a guide, which you arrange in town the day before. Trails can close in bad weather, so keep a spare day.
⚠️ Hiking info can sometimes be outdated or inaccurate. Before you hit the trail, check the latest conditions with locals. If you do spot anything that's off, I'd love to hear from you, so I can update it for fellow travelers.

🛡️ SafetyStaying Safe: What Travelers Should Know

El Cocuy is straightforward if you respect the altitude and the weather. The three open day trails (Ritacuba Blanco, Púlpito del Diablo and Laguna Grande de la Sierra) climb from about 3,500 meters (11,500 feet) to over 4,500 meters (14,800 feet), so spend a night or two in town first and walk slowly. Headaches are common and usually ease if you descend.
Weather turns fast. Cold rain, sleet and wind can arrive within an hour, so carry waterproof layers, gloves and a hat even on sunny mornings. Trails cross boggy páramo and rocky slopes, and fog makes it easy to wander off route, so stay on the marked path. Summits and walking on snow are forbidden, and park staff enforce this.
You need a registered local guide for the trails. Start early, carry plenty of water and snacks, and leave nothing behind. … read more 👉
El Cocuy is straightforward if you respect the altitude and the weather. The three open day trails (Ritacuba Blanco, Púlpito del Diablo and Laguna Grande de la Sierra) climb from about 3,500 meters (11,500 feet) to over 4,500 meters (14,800 feet), so spend a night or two in town first and walk slowly. Headaches are common and usually ease if you descend.
Weather turns fast. Cold rain, sleet and wind can arrive within an hour, so carry waterproof layers, gloves and a hat even on sunny mornings. Trails cross boggy páramo and rocky slopes, and fog makes it easy to wander off route, so stay on the marked path. Summits and walking on snow are forbidden, and park staff enforce this.
You need a registered local guide for the trails. Start early, carry plenty of water and snacks, and leave nothing behind. Wildlife encounters are rare, though you may see spectacled bears’ tracks only far from the trailheads, so keep to paths.

FAQCommon questions from travelers

Plan on 3 to 4 days for El Cocuy National Park. That gives one day to acclimatize in El Cocuy town or Güicán, then one day each for Púlpito del Diablo, Laguna Grande de la Sierra and Ritacuba Blanco. Each is a full-day hike of about 5 to 8 hours.
Yes, El Cocuy National Park is reachable without a car, though it takes planning. Buses run from Bogotá to El Cocuy and Güicán in roughly 10 to 12 hours, often with a change in Málaga or Capitanejo. Shared jeeps (camperos) then take you from town to the trailheads for about US$4 to 15.
Yes, El Cocuy National Park charges an entrance fee, roughly US$6 to 20 depending on nationality, paid at the park office when you register. You also need a certified local guide on the three open trails, at about US$15 to 25 per person in a group. Summits and walking on snow are not permitted.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Colombian national parks near El Cocuy

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We 💚 feedbackFinal thoughts on exploring El Cocuy

El Cocuy National Park trips go wrong when travelers arrive from Bogotá expecting to hike the next morning, then find the guide slots full or altitude hitting hard. I would spend a day in town first, book your guide the moment you arrive, and start with the shortest trail before attempting the big lake.

✈️ When did I visit Colombia?
Did a good 3-week trip around Colombia in August 2014.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Colombia, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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