Yes, backpacking São Tomé and Príncipe independently is very doable: it’s small, relaxed and safe, though slower and pricier than most of mainland West Africa.
Many passports, including EU and US, enter visa-free for up to 15 days. Portuguese is the working language and English is limited outside hotels, so a few phrases help. Budget guesthouses in São Tomé city run about US$25 to 50 a night, and shared taxis cost roughly 20 to 80 STN (US$1 to 4) per ride. Carry euros in cash, since cards work in only a few hotels and ATMs rarely accept foreign cards. Guides for Obo hikes are easy to arrange at trailheads.
Five to seven days is the right amount of time for São Tomé and Príncipe, enough for the main island plus a short trip to Príncipe.
Give São Tomé island at least three days: one for the capital, one for the highlands around
Monte Café and
Lagoa Amelia, and one for the south coast with
Pico Cão Grande. Adding
Príncipe needs two or three nights, because the flight takes about 40 minutes and return fares run roughly US$200 to 300. With only two days, stick to the capital and the east coast down to
São João dos Angolares, 1 to 1.5 hours south.
Yes, you can get around São Tomé and Príncipe without a car, using yellow shared taxis, mototaxis and the occasional hired driver.
Shared taxis leave from the market area in São Tomé city to
Santana (about 30 minutes),
São João dos Angolares (1 to 1.5 hours) and Neves on the west coast, for roughly 20 to 80 STN (US$1 to 4). For the far south around
Praia Jalé or the highland trailheads, hiring a taxi with driver for the day costs roughly US$50 to 80. On
Príncipe, mototaxis from Santo António cover the few roads, and the island is reached by a 40-minute flight.
The must-visits in São Tomé and Príncipe are the capital, the southern coast around Pico Cão Grande, the Obo highlands and, if time allows, Príncipe.
On São Tomé island, plan a day for
Roça São João dos Angolares and the view of
Pico Cão Grande, about 1.5 to 2 hours south of the city. Hike to
Lagoa Amelia in
Obo National Park (3 to 4 hours return) and visit the huge ruined hospital at
Roça Agostinho Neto, 30 minutes north.
Praia Jalé at the southern tip is the place for nesting turtles from roughly October to March.
Príncipe deserves two nights for its beaches and forest.
If you are short on time in São Tomé and Príncipe, skip Príncipe first, since the flight and two-night minimum eat most of a short trip.
With under four days, stay on São Tomé island and choose between the south coast (
Pico Cão Grande,
Roça São João dos Angolares) and the highlands (
Lagoa Amelia,
Monte Café). The drive out to
Santa Catarina takes 1.5 to 2 hours each way for a fishing village, so it’s easy to drop. The beaches north of the capital, like
Praia das Conchas, are pleasant but less striking than the south. The national museum takes an hour and can go if your days are full.
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