How many regions to visit: Two or three regions is the right number. Distances between them run 3 to 9 hours on straight, empty highway, and each stop needs at least two days to feel like more than a bus window. Adding a fourth turns the trip into transit. Two regions suit a week, three suit ten days or more, and the reward is time to sit in a town long enough to be recognized by the tea seller.
Choosing the kind of region: Coastal regions suit most backpackers. They have cafés selling fresh grilled fish, guesthouses, wide Atlantic beaches and wind-sports schools, and the sea air takes the edge off the heat. Inland desert regions suit travelers who want silence and stars, and who will pay for a vehicle and a local driver. There, the payoff is a horizon with no pylons. The eastern zone beyond …
read more 👉 How many regions to visit: Two or three regions is the right number. Distances between them run 3 to 9 hours on straight, empty highway, and each stop needs at least two days to feel like more than a bus window. Adding a fourth turns the trip into transit. Two regions suit a week, three suit ten days or more, and the reward is time to sit in a town long enough to be recognized by the tea seller.
Choosing the kind of region: Coastal regions suit most backpackers. They have cafés selling fresh grilled fish, guesthouses, wide Atlantic beaches and wind-sports schools, and the sea air takes the edge off the heat. Inland desert regions suit travelers who want silence and stars, and who will pay for a vehicle and a local driver. There, the payoff is a horizon with no pylons. The eastern zone beyond the berm is not a backpacker destination, since access depends on permission and mines remain.
What it costs: Budget US$30 to 50 a day, or MAD 300 to 500. That covers a simple hotel at MAD 200 to 400 (US$20 to 40) and meals of fish, tagine or grilled meat at MAD 40 to 100 (US$4 to 10) each. Intercity buses cost MAD 100 to 250 (US$10 to 25) per leg. A 4x4 with a driver for a desert day runs MAD 500 to 1,000 (US$50 to 100) per vehicle, so split it with others. Entry fees are minor, as there are few ticketed sites.
Safety and cultural notes: Checkpoints are frequent and routine. Carry your passport and answer questions politely. Keep drones out of the bag, since they are restricted, and avoid photographing military installations. The political status is sensitive, so let locals raise it first and keep opinions quiet. Dress modestly, and accept the first glass of tea, which opens conversation. Fill the fuel tank and water bottles before any long stretch, since stations can be 150 km apart. Stay on tracks, because ordnance lies off them, and never drive at night, when camels cross the road.