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Kiribati🇰🇮 | regionsButaritariMakin Raid markers, Japanese bunkers, taro pits, canoe crossings | things to do and best time to go

Explore Beru AtollExplore Kiritimati Island

Backpacking in Butaritari
👌 Worth visitingregion ranked #5
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 15, 2026

Butaritari is an atoll of long, narrow land strips around a big lagoon, and it gets less than a trickle of visitors, so nobody here is waiting to sell you a tour. Many travelers assume all of Kiribati is bare coral and sand; here, the wetter climate grows dense breadfruit, pandanus, banana and taro pits under the coconut palms. The atoll lies in the north of Kiribati, in the Gilbert Islands, close to Makin. Expect a single paved-ish road running the length of the main island, bikes, wooden canoes, and village maneabas where elders talk in the shade. You get fresh coconut toddy at dawn and fish grilled over husks at dusk. Beaches are plain, the heat is heavy, and nightlife is nonexistent. Authenticity is total. Before going, know that flights from Tarawa are infrequent and often rescheduled, so build slack into your plans.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #5 region in KiribatiThe unique appeal for travelers

Backpackers come to Butaritari because it is one of the few places in Kiribati where daily life still runs on fishing, toddy cutting and taro pits rather than imported goods. You can cover the main island by bicycle or by hopping on a pickup, and every few kilometers a new village offers a different pace and a different invitation to sit under a maneaba.

The second draw is history. The 1943 Battle of Butaritari and the 1942 Makin Raid left wrecks, bunkers and rusted guns scattered through the bush and along the lagoon edge. History here is not fenced off; you find it while cycling to lunch.

The third is the lagoon itself, a calm, wide sheet of shallow turquoise that suits canoe trips, snorkeling and sandbar walks. Combine these and you can spend days without ever changing islands, just changing villages.

💡 HighlightsDon't-miss highlights and experiences

  1. Makin Raid Memorial Sites: Markers and relics recall the 1942 US Marine raid; the history is easy to reach by bike from the main settlement.
  2. Butaritari Village: The main settlement has the small shops, the airstrip road and the easiest chance to meet locals over a bowl of fish.
  3. Japanese WWII Relics: Bunkers, rusting guns and wreckage sit in the undergrowth along the road, free to explore.
  4. Lagoon Canoe Trip: Local boatmen take you across the shallows to sandbars and fishing grounds; bargain a price before leaving.
  5. Taro Pits: Deep, hand-dug swamp gardens behind the villages show how islanders feed themselves on poor coral soil.
  6. Village Maneabas: Open-sided meeting houses where communities gather; ask permission, sit low and you may be offered food.
  7. Toddy Cutting at Dawn: Men climb palms to collect
… read more 👉
  1. Makin Raid Memorial Sites: Markers and relics recall the 1942 US Marine raid; the history is easy to reach by bike from the main settlement.
  2. Butaritari Village: The main settlement has the small shops, the airstrip road and the easiest chance to meet locals over a bowl of fish.
  3. Japanese WWII Relics: Bunkers, rusting guns and wreckage sit in the undergrowth along the road, free to explore.
  4. Lagoon Canoe Trip: Local boatmen take you across the shallows to sandbars and fishing grounds; bargain a price before leaving.
  5. Taro Pits: Deep, hand-dug swamp gardens behind the villages show how islanders feed themselves on poor coral soil.
  6. Village Maneabas: Open-sided meeting houses where communities gather; ask permission, sit low and you may be offered food.
  7. Toddy Cutting at Dawn: Men climb palms to collect sap from coconut flowers, and a guide can arrange a morning with them.
  8. Kuma Village Coast: A quieter end of the main island where few visitors go, with calm shoreline walks and friendly families.
  9. Ocean-Side Beaches: Empty stretches of pale sand facing the open Pacific, good for sunrise and long walks, though swimming needs care.
  10. Lagoon Snorkeling Spots: Patches of coral and small reef fish in warm, shallow water just off the village shores.
For a first visit, ride the road past the Makin Raid sites and the Japanese relics, because it ties the history, villages and lagoon into one easy day.
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⌛️ 5 daysSeeing the highlights in 5 days

Start at dawn in Butaritari Village, when the air is cool enough to cycle and the toddy cutters are already up the palms. Rent or borrow a bicycle, because the single road is flat and the whole island's pace is set by the irregular flights and few vehicles.

Day 1-2: Butaritari Village: Spend the first two days around the main settlement. Ride out to the Makin Raid memorial sites and the Japanese bunkers, then sit in a maneaba for the afternoon heat. Arranging a canoe trip here is easier than anywhere else, so book it for day two and spend the water hours snorkeling the lagoon.

Day 3-4: Kuma Coast: Move along the road to the quieter end of the island and stay with a host family. The taro pits and ocean-side beaches make for slow walking, and evenings are for fish and conversation. Transport … read more 👉
Start at dawn in Butaritari Village, when the air is cool enough to cycle and the toddy cutters are already up the palms. Rent or borrow a bicycle, because the single road is flat and the whole island's pace is set by the irregular flights and few vehicles.

Day 1-2: Butaritari Village: Spend the first two days around the main settlement. Ride out to the Makin Raid memorial sites and the Japanese bunkers, then sit in a maneaba for the afternoon heat. Arranging a canoe trip here is easier than anywhere else, so book it for day two and spend the water hours snorkeling the lagoon.

Day 3-4: Kuma Coast: Move along the road to the quieter end of the island and stay with a host family. The taro pits and ocean-side beaches make for slow walking, and evenings are for fish and conversation. Transport is limited, so go early in the day and settle in rather than rushing back.

Day 5: Back to the Airstrip: Return to the main village, leaving a buffer for the flight, which can shift without notice.

One detour: take a boat across the lagoon to a small uninhabited islet for a picnic and sandbar walk. It adds a whole day of wide-open water without disturbing the plan.

If you only get one great day, make it day two: the canoe across the lagoon at midmorning, then the war relics and the maneaba at dusk.

🌤️ When to go?When to go for the best experience

The driest stretch runs roughly April to October, and that is when Butaritari is easiest to enjoy.
  • Dry Season (April to October): Trade winds keep afternoons breezy, with highs around 30°C (86°F) and nights near 26°C (79°F). Showers still pass through, but lagoon crossings are calmer and bonefishing is at its most reliable.
  • Wet Season (November to March): Butaritari sits close to the wetter edge of Kiribati, so rain here is heavier than on the southern atolls. Expect frequent downpours, thick humidity and temperatures of 28 to 31°C (82 to 88°F). Squalls can delay boats.
  • Daylight: Sunrise falls between about 6:10 and 6:45 a.m. and sunset between about 6:10 and 6:45 p.m. all year, so plan lagoon trips for the morning.
  • Crowds and Prices: Visitors are few in any month. Guesthouse rates barely move,
… read more 👉
The driest stretch runs roughly April to October, and that is when Butaritari is easiest to enjoy.
  • Dry Season (April to October): Trade winds keep afternoons breezy, with highs around 30°C (86°F) and nights near 26°C (79°F). Showers still pass through, but lagoon crossings are calmer and bonefishing is at its most reliable.
  • Wet Season (November to March): Butaritari sits close to the wetter edge of Kiribati, so rain here is heavier than on the southern atolls. Expect frequent downpours, thick humidity and temperatures of 28 to 31°C (82 to 88°F). Squalls can delay boats.
  • Daylight: Sunrise falls between about 6:10 and 6:45 a.m. and sunset between about 6:10 and 6:45 p.m. all year, so plan lagoon trips for the morning.
  • Crowds and Prices: Visitors are few in any month. Guesthouse rates barely move, but flights are limited, so seats sell out around Christmas and school holidays.
Book your flight early and leave a spare day at each end, because schedules slip with weather.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: fair for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?How to pick the right area

Stay near the main settlement area around Keuea and Butaritari village, because that is where the few guesthouses, shops and the airstrip all sit within walking or biking distance. Visitors are rare here, so you will find a family-run guesthouse with shared meals rather than a hostel scene. That suits solo travelers well: you eat with hosts, join fishing trips and get invited to community events.
The central strip is also the safest and most convenient base. Boat operators, bike lenders and the island’s small stores are a short stroll away. Rooms are simple, with mosquito nets, fans, and shared … read more 👉
Stay near the main settlement area around Keuea and Butaritari village, because that is where the few guesthouses, shops and the airstrip all sit within walking or biking distance. Visitors are rare here, so you will find a family-run guesthouse with shared meals rather than a hostel scene. That suits solo travelers well: you eat with hosts, join fishing trips and get invited to community events.
The central strip is also the safest and most convenient base. Boat operators, bike lenders and the island’s small stores are a short stroll away. Rooms are simple, with mosquito nets, fans, and shared or basic private bathrooms, and rates run roughly A$40 to 90 a night, often including meals.
Villages farther along the road, toward Ukiangang and the northern shore, work for a second night if you want quieter beaches and a closer look at daily life. Transport there is limited, so arrange a pickup or bike ahead. Power and water can be intermittent everywhere, so bring a headlamp and a power bank. Carry cash, as there are no ATMs.
Best hostels in Kiribati


Best quality hotels in Kiribati

🚌 Getting aroundTransportation options and practical tips

Assuming a flight to Butaritari leaves on schedule is the error that burns the most days and dollars, since Air Kiribati services from Tarawa are infrequent and get delayed or cancelled with little notice. Build slack into your return, and never book an international connection for the day after you fly back. Once you are on the atoll, getting around is simple: one main road runs along the island, and you will walk, ride a bike or hop on a pickup.
  • Flight from Tarawa: The hop takes about 45 minutes and costs roughly A$250 to 400 one way. You land on a coral strip, step out into wet heat and the smell of copra and salt, and walk to your guesthouse within minutes.
  • Walking: Most villages near the airstrip and the main settlement of Keuea connect by sandy tracks shaded by coconut palms. You hear
… read more 👉
Assuming a flight to Butaritari leaves on schedule is the error that burns the most days and dollars, since Air Kiribati services from Tarawa are infrequent and get delayed or cancelled with little notice. Build slack into your return, and never book an international connection for the day after you fly back. Once you are on the atoll, getting around is simple: one main road runs along the island, and you will walk, ride a bike or hop on a pickup.
  • Flight from Tarawa: The hop takes about 45 minutes and costs roughly A$250 to 400 one way. You land on a coral strip, step out into wet heat and the smell of copra and salt, and walk to your guesthouse within minutes.
  • Walking: Most villages near the airstrip and the main settlement of Keuea connect by sandy tracks shaded by coconut palms. You hear roosters, pigs and children calling hello, and you pass families weaving pandanus mats on verandas.
  • Bicycle: Locals lend or rent bikes for around A$5 to 10 a day. The causeway road is flat and rough in patches, and you get a breeze off the lagoon and a view of green water on one side and surf on the other.
  • Shared pickup trucks: Trucks run along the main road with no fixed timetable and charge about A$1 to 3 a ride. You stand or sit on the tailgate among sacks of fish and breadfruit, hang on over the bumps and arrive in a fine layer of dust.
  • Motorized boat: Hire a skiff for lagoon crossings, fishing and the northern islets at roughly A$50 to 150 a day, fuel included, depending on distance. You skim over turquoise shallows, spray on your lips, and reach sand flats where you may have the whole beach to yourself.
Agree boat prices and pickup times the evening before with your guesthouse, and start before 8 a.m. while the lagoon is calm and the sun is still gentle.

🍲 FoodWhat to Eat & Drink

Eating on Butaritari means fresh fish, coconut and breadfruit. Tuna and reef fish arrive grilled over coconut husk fires, smoky and salty, or raw in coconut cream with lime. Rice and pandanus or breadfruit round out plates, and chicken or pork appears at feasts. The local drink is toddy, sweet sap tapped from coconut flower stalks and tasting of brown sugar. Cut green coconuts are the everyday refresher and cost very little.
There are no markets in the big-city sense. You eat at your guesthouse, where meals are usually included, or buy from small village shops stocked with canned goods, noodles and biscuits, plus fish bought straight from fishermen on the shore. Bring snacks and variety, because supplies run low when ships are late.
Customs are warm and communal. Guests are often served first … read more 👉
Eating on Butaritari means fresh fish, coconut and breadfruit. Tuna and reef fish arrive grilled over coconut husk fires, smoky and salty, or raw in coconut cream with lime. Rice and pandanus or breadfruit round out plates, and chicken or pork appears at feasts. The local drink is toddy, sweet sap tapped from coconut flower stalks and tasting of brown sugar. Cut green coconuts are the everyday refresher and cost very little.
There are no markets in the big-city sense. You eat at your guesthouse, where meals are usually included, or buy from small village shops stocked with canned goods, noodles and biscuits, plus fish bought straight from fishermen on the shore. Bring snacks and variety, because supplies run low when ships are late.
Customs are warm and communal. Guests are often served first and encouraged to eat plenty, and refusing outright can seem rude, so accept a small portion. Shoes come off at the door, and dress modestly in villages. Alcohol is limited in many communities, so ask before bringing any, and share what you carry.

FAQFrequently asked questions about Butaritari

Plan on 3 to 5 days. That covers the 45-minute flight from Tarawa, a day biking the main road, a boat trip across the lagoon and a buffer for delayed flights, which are common.
Walk, rent a bicycle for about A$5 to 10 a day, or flag a shared pickup truck on the main road for roughly A$1 to 3 a ride. For lagoon crossings and outer islets, hire a motorized skiff at around A$50 to 150 a day, depending on distance.
Butaritari is known for its large, calm lagoon, bonefishing, traditional village life and its place in World War II history. The 1942 Makin Raid and the 1943 Battle of Makin left wrecks, bunkers and relics around the atoll. It is also one of the greener atolls in Kiribati, with abundant coconut and breadfruit groves.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other I-Kiribati regions near Butaritari

Explore more nearby:

  • Makin—Makin maneaba, sailing canoes, lagoon snorkeling, pandanus weaving| 35 km away
  • Marakei—Enclosed lagoon, fish weirs, coast-road cycling, homestays| 138 km away
  • Abaiang—Wade-in landings, lagoon sandbars, village homestays, Sunday hymns| 146 km away

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We 💚 feedbackIs it worth it?

Give Butaritari five full days, with a spare day in case the flight shifts. Three days feels rushed once you factor in village hospitality and slow roads. Bring cash in small bills, insect repellent and gifts such as rice or tobacco for your host. I would skip any rigid schedule and say yes to every invitation to sit and eat.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on in-depth research, insights shared by experienced travelers, and feedback from the local travel community in Kiribati. While every effort is made to keep the information accurate and current, conditions can change — so if you spot anything incorrect or outdated, please get in touch.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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