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Argentina🇦🇷 | regionsSierras ChicasSwimming holes, car-free village, Uritorco summit, folk festival | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Sierras Chicas
👌 Worth visitingregion ranked #8
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

That's Sierras Chicas: a low mountain range just northwest of Córdoba city, threaded with rivers and small towns. Skip Villa Carlos Paz's crowds (saves you a full day of tourist shuffle) and you buy authenticity in Cosquín or La Cumbrecita instead. Buses between towns run cheap, but infrequent, so renting a bike for a week beats paying for five separate taxis. Swimming holes (arroyos) beat any hostel pool, but you'll hike rocky paths to reach them. I remember dropping into the Río Los Chorrillos current near Salsipuedes at 2pm, water so cold it punched the breath out of me, cicadas screaming overhead. That's the real Sierras Chicas: unpolished, unbothered, and cheaper than the Calchaquí Valleys up north.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #8 region in ArgentinaWhat makes it a must-see region

Backpackers linger here because the landscape variety is absurd for such a compact area: granite peaks, river canyons, and dry scrubland all within an hour's bus ride. You get multiple experiences without constant relocation since towns like Río Ceballos, Unquillo, and La Cumbrecita sit close enough to day-trip between. Transport flexibility matters too: local buses (known as micros) connect most towns, and hitchhiking is common and safe practice among Argentine youth. What really sells it is the chance to mix nature and culture through slow travel: mornings hiking to a waterfall, afternoons chatting with an artisan cheese-maker, evenings at a peña listening to chacarera music. Unlike Mendoza or Bariloche, prices stay low and crowds thin out fast once you're 20 minutes from the main road. … read more 👉
Backpackers linger here because the landscape variety is absurd for such a compact area: granite peaks, river canyons, and dry scrubland all within an hour's bus ride. You get multiple experiences without constant relocation since towns like Río Ceballos, Unquillo, and La Cumbrecita sit close enough to day-trip between. Transport flexibility matters too: local buses (known as micros) connect most towns, and hitchhiking is common and safe practice among Argentine youth. What really sells it is the chance to mix nature and culture through slow travel: mornings hiking to a waterfall, afternoons chatting with an artisan cheese-maker, evenings at a peña listening to chacarera music. Unlike Mendoza or Bariloche, prices stay low and crowds thin out fast once you're 20 minutes from the main road. It rewards travelers willing to slow down rather than rush a checklist.

💡 HighlightsEssential experiences to have while visiting Sierras Chicas

  1. La Cumbrecita: A car-free alpine-style village with wooden walkways and cold-water swimming holes just outside town.
  2. Río Los Chorrillos (Salsipuedes): A locals' swimming spot with natural rock pools, rarely crowded on weekdays.
  3. Cerro Uritorco (Capilla del Monte): A striking granite peak with a steep half-day hike and panoramic views over the valley.
  4. Jesuit Estancia Santa Catalina: A UNESCO-listed 17th-century Jesuit ranch, quiet and largely overlooked by day-trippers from Córdoba city.
  5. Ongamira Valley: Red sandstone cliffs and cave paintings from indigenous Comechingones people, remote and rarely mentioned in guidebooks.
  6. Río Ceballos reservoir (Dique La Quebrada): A small dam popular with local families for kayaking and picnics, minimal tourist presence.
  7. Cosquín's National Folklore Festival (late
… read more 👉
  1. La Cumbrecita: A car-free alpine-style village with wooden walkways and cold-water swimming holes just outside town.
  2. Río Los Chorrillos (Salsipuedes): A locals' swimming spot with natural rock pools, rarely crowded on weekdays.
  3. Cerro Uritorco (Capilla del Monte): A striking granite peak with a steep half-day hike and panoramic views over the valley.
  4. Jesuit Estancia Santa Catalina: A UNESCO-listed 17th-century Jesuit ranch, quiet and largely overlooked by day-trippers from Córdoba city.
  5. Ongamira Valley: Red sandstone cliffs and cave paintings from indigenous Comechingones people, remote and rarely mentioned in guidebooks.
  6. Río Ceballos reservoir (Dique La Quebrada): A small dam popular with local families for kayaking and picnics, minimal tourist presence.
  7. Cosquín's National Folklore Festival (late January): Argentina's biggest folk music festival, drawing top national acts to a mid-size town.
  8. Cascada Los Chorrillos (near Agua de Oro): A lesser-known waterfall reached via a dirt trail through a farm, favored by locals over the busier falls near Río Ceballos.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do near Sierras Chicas

Wine Tour Privado a Colonia Caroya, Córdoba - Argentina

Wine Tour Privado a Colonia Caroya, Córdoba - Argentina

5.0(106) 8h
From €182
per personViator
Wine Tour Privado a Calamuchita, Córdoba - Argentina

Wine Tour Privado a Calamuchita, Córdoba - Argentina

4.9(52) 9h
From €159
per personViator
PRIVATE TOUR: La Cumbrecita & Villa Gral. Belgrano

PRIVATE TOUR: La Cumbrecita & Villa Gral. Belgrano

4.9(34)
From €136
per personViator
La Cumbrecita and Villa General Belgrano Full Day Tour

La Cumbrecita and Villa General Belgrano Full Day Tour

4.2(58) 10h
From €86
per personViator
Cordoba for the curious

Cordoba for the curious

4.9(29)
From €27
per personViator
PRIVATE TOUR: World Heritage Jesuit Museums

PRIVATE TOUR: World Heritage Jesuit Museums

5.0(24)
From €86
per personViator
Cordoba Cumbrecita Tour with Spanish Speaking Guide

Cordoba Cumbrecita Tour with Spanish Speaking Guide

4.4(35) 10h
From €94
per personViator
Private Cordoba City Tour

Private Cordoba City Tour

5.0(19)
From €72
per personViator
Summit and Villa General Belgrano Tour from Cordoba Capital

Summit and Villa General Belgrano Tour from Cordoba Capital

4.7(21) 10h
From €73
per personViator
PRIVATE TOUR: Caroya WineTour HalfDay

PRIVATE TOUR: Caroya WineTour HalfDay

4.8(16) 4h
From €86
per personViator

Ratings based on Tripadvisor reviews. When you book through this link, you support our work at no extra cost to you.

⌛️ 5 daysSeeing the highlights in 5 days

Day 1: Río Ceballos: Start here because it's the transport hub with the most frequent bus connections to Córdoba city and surrounding towns. Spend the day easing into the pace: walk to a nearby arroyo, get oriented.Day 2: Salsipuedes: A short hop by local bus. This is your river day: swim at Río Los Chorrillos, eat lunch streamside. Ask locals about the unmarked trail to a second, quieter pool upstream.Day 3: Capilla del Monte: Buses run less frequently here, so plan around midday departures. This town anchors your hike up Cerro Uritorco, a genuine half-day physical effort with a payoff view worth the burn.Day 4: Ongamira: Requires a taxi or arranged transport since public buses don't reach the valley directly. Worth the arrangement: the cave paintings and red cliffs are unlike anything else … read more 👉
Day 1: Río Ceballos: Start here because it's the transport hub with the most frequent bus connections to Córdoba city and surrounding towns. Spend the day easing into the pace: walk to a nearby arroyo, get oriented.Day 2: Salsipuedes: A short hop by local bus. This is your river day: swim at Río Los Chorrillos, eat lunch streamside. Ask locals about the unmarked trail to a second, quieter pool upstream.Day 3: Capilla del Monte: Buses run less frequently here, so plan around midday departures. This town anchors your hike up Cerro Uritorco, a genuine half-day physical effort with a payoff view worth the burn.Day 4: Ongamira: Requires a taxi or arranged transport since public buses don't reach the valley directly. Worth the arrangement: the cave paintings and red cliffs are unlike anything else in the range.Day 5: La Cumbrecita: Backtrack toward Córdoba then catch a connecting bus. This car-free village closes the loop with cold swimming holes and forest walks.The must-do day is Day 3. Uritorco forces you to earn the view, and the surrounding energy-tourism culture (UFO legends included) makes for great conversation with fellow hikers.

🌤️ When to go?Best time to visit Sierras Chicas

  • Autumn (March-May): Daytime temps sit around 18-24°C (64-75°F), skies are clear, and the summer crowds have thinned considerably, making this the sweet spot for hiking.
  • Winter (June-August): Cold mornings near 5°C (41°F) warming to 15°C (59°F) by afternoon; dry air, short daylight (around 10 hours), and lower accommodation prices.
  • Spring (September-November): Wildflowers bloom, temps climb from 15°C to 25°C (59-77°F), and rivers run full from winter rains, perfect for swimming holes by November.
  • Summer (December-February): Hot, humid, 28-33°C (82-91°F), peak domestic tourism (Argentines flood in for holidays), and prices spike accordingly.
Aim for the first two weeks of March. Rivers are still swimmable, the heat has broken, and hostel owners actually have time to talk.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: good for travelingFEBFebruary: good for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: fair for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: excellent for travelingNOVNovember: excellent for travelingDECDecember: good for traveling
argentina-region-sierras-chicas
© Google | Anni

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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas to stay in Argentina

Río Ceballos works well as a base: it's the most connected town transport-wise, has a steady flow of backpackers, and feels safe walking at night. Villa Carlos Paz gets more tourist traffic and nightlife but leans toward families and package tourists rather than budget travelers. Capilla del Monte draws a younger, alternative crowd (thanks partly to its UFO-tourism reputation) and has a social hostel scene worth tapping into. Unquillo is quieter and more residential, good if you want a low-key few nights without losing bus access. Avoid staying only in Córdoba city itself if your focus is the … read more 👉
Río Ceballos works well as a base: it's the most connected town transport-wise, has a steady flow of backpackers, and feels safe walking at night. Villa Carlos Paz gets more tourist traffic and nightlife but leans toward families and package tourists rather than budget travelers. Capilla del Monte draws a younger, alternative crowd (thanks partly to its UFO-tourism reputation) and has a social hostel scene worth tapping into. Unquillo is quieter and more residential, good if you want a low-key few nights without losing bus access. Avoid staying only in Córdoba city itself if your focus is the sierras; you'll waste time commuting back and forth. Basing yourself in two towns (say, Río Ceballos then Capilla del Monte) and day-tripping from each gives you social energy without constant packing and moving.
Best hostels in Argentina


Best quality hotels in Argentina

🚌 Getting aroundMoving around without the hassle

Sierras Chicas runs on a rhythm somewhere between rigid and relaxed: buses stick to a schedule on paper, but drivers wait for that one last passenger running across the plaza. Nobody's stressed here, and neither should you be.
  • Local micros (buses): Connect main towns like Río Ceballos, Unquillo, and Salsipuedes; typically run from 6am to 9pm, and are the cheapest option but infrequent on weekends.
  • Remises (shared taxis): Faster and more comfortable than buses for reaching harder-to-access spots like Ongamira, cost more but split well among 3-4 people.
  • Bicycle rental: Ideal for exploring within a single town's radius, cheap daily rates, but the hilly terrain demands decent fitness.
  • Hitchhiking: Common and generally safe practice among Argentine backpackers, free, but unpredictable timing.
  • Walking:
… read more 👉
Sierras Chicas runs on a rhythm somewhere between rigid and relaxed: buses stick to a schedule on paper, but drivers wait for that one last passenger running across the plaza. Nobody's stressed here, and neither should you be.
  • Local micros (buses): Connect main towns like Río Ceballos, Unquillo, and Salsipuedes; typically run from 6am to 9pm, and are the cheapest option but infrequent on weekends.
  • Remises (shared taxis): Faster and more comfortable than buses for reaching harder-to-access spots like Ongamira, cost more but split well among 3-4 people.
  • Bicycle rental: Ideal for exploring within a single town's radius, cheap daily rates, but the hilly terrain demands decent fitness.
  • Hitchhiking: Common and generally safe practice among Argentine backpackers, free, but unpredictable timing.
  • Walking: Many swimming holes and viewpoints sit within an hour's walk of town centers, zero cost and the best way to stumble onto something unplanned.
Buses to smaller villages thin out drastically after 6pm, so plan your return trip before lunch if you're heading somewhere remote like Ongamira.

🍲 FoodWhat to Eat & Drink

Regional food here leans on simple, hearty staples: locro (a thick corn and meat stew) shows up at festivals and family gatherings, while cabrito (goat) roasted slowly over open fire is a sierra specialty worth seeking out in smaller towns. For drinks, try fernet with cola (Córdoba's signature mix, stronger and more bitter than you'd expect) or a mate shared among strangers at a plaza bench. Backpackers eat well at ferias (weekend markets) selling homemade empanadas and regional cheeses, or at small comedores (family-run casual eateries) where the menu is whatever the cook made that day. Bakeries sell alfajores and facturas cheap, perfect for hiking fuel. One quirk worth knowing: dinner rarely starts before 9pm, and asking for the check immediately after eating is considered rude, you're expected to linger.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Five to seven days is enough to hit the main towns and a couple of hiking or swimming spots without rushing, though you could stretch it to ten days if you want to add La Cumbrecita and Ongamira Valley without backtracking quickly. Shorter trips of two to three days work fine if you only plan to base in one or two towns.
Local buses (micros) connect the main towns like Río Ceballos, Unquillo, and Salsipuedes on a daily schedule, generally running from around 6am to 9pm. For harder-to-reach spots like Ongamira Valley, shared taxis (remises) or hitchhiking, both common and widely used by young Argentine travelers, fill the gaps buses don't cover.
Sierras Chicas is known for its combination of granite peaks, river swimming holes, and small mountain towns close to Córdoba city, along with a notable UFO-tourism culture centered around Capilla del Monte and Cerro Uritorco. It's also home to Jesuit colonial history, including estancias, and hosts Cosquín's National Folklore Festival, one of Argentina's largest folk music events, held every January.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Argentine regions near Sierras Chicas

Explore more nearby:

  • Tucumán—Sugarcane valleys, cloud forest, Quilmes ruins, Tafí highlands| 491 km away
  • Mendoza wine region—Malbec bodegas, Maipú bikes, Andes terraces, thermal pools| 498 km away
  • Valle de Uco—Boutique cellars, Tupungato sunsets, San Martín pass, small producers| 506 km away

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We 💚 feedbackIs it worth it?

Sierras Chicas rewards patience: swim in a cold river, hike a granite peak, share mate with a stranger, and you'll feel like you found something real. The drawback? Transport gaps mean waiting around sometimes, so don't come here expecting tight schedules or fast payoffs.

✈️ When did I visit Argentina?
I have visited Argentina, together with Chile, in September 2012.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Argentina, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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