How many cities: Plan on
three or four cities in total, including the capital. Permits specify destinations, roads are slow and public transport runs on fixed schedules, so anything beyond four turns the trip into a transit exercise. Three gives you time to sit in cafes and walk without watching the clock.
Which kind to prioritize: If you like architecture, cafe life and easy walking, the
highland capital is the priority and deserves the most time. If you want heat, ports, Ottoman and Egyptian-era stonework and sea air, add one
coastal city in winter only. If you prefer markets, rural life and a sense of everyday commerce, choose one
western or southern market town, ideally timed for market day. Spending a full day in each type is better than adding more of the same.
What it costs: Expect
US$40 …
read more 👉 How many cities: Plan on
three or four cities in total, including the capital. Permits specify destinations, roads are slow and public transport runs on fixed schedules, so anything beyond four turns the trip into a transit exercise. Three gives you time to sit in cafes and walk without watching the clock.
Which kind to prioritize: If you like architecture, cafe life and easy walking, the
highland capital is the priority and deserves the most time. If you want heat, ports, Ottoman and Egyptian-era stonework and sea air, add one
coastal city in winter only. If you prefer markets, rural life and a sense of everyday commerce, choose one
western or southern market town, ideally timed for market day. Spending a full day in each type is better than adding more of the same.
What it costs: Expect
US$40 to 80 a day for a comfortable independent trip, or US$30 to 45 on a tight one. Guesthouses and simple hotels run about US$20 to 60 a night, and standard hotels in the capital cost US$60 to 100. Meals at local restaurants cost US$3 to 8, and coffee is under US$1. Intercity buses cost US$2 to 8 for each leg, and a private car with driver runs about US$80 to 150 a day depending on distance. Travel permits cost a small administrative fee, and a local guide, which is optional, costs about US$30 to 60 a day. Museum and site entry fees are usually a few dollars each. Budget about US$300 to 600 for a week, excluding visa and flights.
Money and practicalities: Bring
cash in euros or US dollars in clean, recent notes, because foreign cards and ATMs do not work. Exchange officially at banks or the hotel, and avoid street changers, since unofficial trades are illegal. Mobile data is limited and slow, so download maps and keep printed copies of your visa and permits.
Safety and conduct: Street crime is
very low, and walking at night in the cities is generally calm. The main risks are administrative. Carry your passport and permit and expect checkpoints on roads between regions. Do not photograph
military sites, government buildings, police, or airports and ports, and ask before photographing people. Do not leave the permitted route, and stay away from border zones, which are restricted and sensitive. Keep political discussion measured and let locals raise it first.
Cultural considerations: The country is split roughly between
Christian and Muslim communities, and dress should be modest, with covered shoulders and knees, especially in the lowlands. Coffee ceremonies are common, and declining the first cup is considered impolite. Accept at least one, and expect to stay for three rounds. Friday and Sunday shape opening hours, and many shops close in the early afternoon. Public holidays can close banks, so change money in advance.