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Ethiopia🇪🇹 | citiesHararJugol walls, hyena feeding, Harari houses, qat markets | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Harar
🏆 Top pickcity ranked #5
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 22, 2026

Harar once felt like a place reached only by the stubborn, a walled city days from anywhere, closed to outsiders for centuries. Today minibuses and a paved road bring you in, yet the old town still keeps its own pace. Harar sits in eastern Ethiopia, on a hilltop ringed by a wall with five main gates. Inside, lanes are narrow, walls are painted in blues, pinks and ochres, and the call to prayer overlaps with the clatter of bajaj motor-taxis. Because the Jugol is a tangle with few street signs, an experienced traveler stops fretting about the map and walks toward a gate, since every lane eventually ends at one. I bought a handful of qat leaves at Harar Gate just to watch the sellers weigh bundles and haggle in three languages. It suits curious walkers and food lovers; it frustrates anyone wanting quick ticks. Start with a slow morning loop of the lanes, then spend the afternoon at coffee and market stalls.

Discover everything you want to know in the 📖 Ethiopia Travel Guide.
Safety warning

The current risk level for Ethiopia is high. Check the advice before going.


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✨ Why go?
Ranked #5 city in Ethiopia
The unique appeal for travelers

Harar earns its place on a route through eastern Ethiopia because the walled old town packs an enormous amount into a small area. You can cover most of it on foot, and a bajaj fills the gaps when the climb gets tiring. Most travelers come for the atmosphere of the lanes, where spice traders, weavers and coffee roasters work within a few steps of one another. The Jugol holds 368 alleys inside 3.3 kilometers of wall, so wandering without a plan works better than any itinerary. The second draw is the Harari culture itself, which feels distinct from the highlands: Islamic, Afro-Arabian, and proud of its own language, food and house design. After dark, the hyena feeding outside the walls gives the evening a focus you will not find elsewhere in the country. Guesthouses in traditional Harari houses … read more 👉
Harar earns its place on a route through eastern Ethiopia because the walled old town packs an enormous amount into a small area. You can cover most of it on foot, and a bajaj fills the gaps when the climb gets tiring. Most travelers come for the atmosphere of the lanes, where spice traders, weavers and coffee roasters work within a few steps of one another. The Jugol holds 368 alleys inside 3.3 kilometers of wall, so wandering without a plan works better than any itinerary. The second draw is the Harari culture itself, which feels distinct from the highlands: Islamic, Afro-Arabian, and proud of its own language, food and house design. After dark, the hyena feeding outside the walls gives the evening a focus you will not find elsewhere in the country. Guesthouses in traditional Harari houses are a pleasure and easy to find. Harar works best as a two-night stop between Dire Dawa and the rest of the east. Stay longer only if you enjoy slow, sensory days.

💡 HighlightsKey sights and experiences for travelers

  1. Jugol (the old walled city): The reason most people come. Narrow lanes, painted houses and five historic gates, with gates busiest in the morning. Walking is free, and it takes 3 to 4 hours to wander properly. Go early, before the midday heat.
  2. Hyena feeding: Men at the edge of town feed wild spotted hyenas scraps by hand, and you can join in with a stick of meat. Go after dark, around US$3 to 5, for 45 minutes to an hour. Take a bajaj since the site is outside the walls.
  3. Harar Gate and Erer Gate markets: Spices, secondhand clothes, qat and baskets in noisy crowds. Entry is free. Mornings are busiest. Allow 1 to 2 hours.
  4. Rimbaud Museum: A restored Harari-style house linked to the French poet who lived in the city in the 1880s. It has photographs and a small collection. Entry is about US$2 to 3,
… read more 👉
  1. Jugol (the old walled city): The reason most people come. Narrow lanes, painted houses and five historic gates, with gates busiest in the morning. Walking is free, and it takes 3 to 4 hours to wander properly. Go early, before the midday heat.
  2. Hyena feeding: Men at the edge of town feed wild spotted hyenas scraps by hand, and you can join in with a stick of meat. Go after dark, around US$3 to 5, for 45 minutes to an hour. Take a bajaj since the site is outside the walls.
  3. Harar Gate and Erer Gate markets: Spices, secondhand clothes, qat and baskets in noisy crowds. Entry is free. Mornings are busiest. Allow 1 to 2 hours.
  4. Rimbaud Museum: A restored Harari-style house linked to the French poet who lived in the city in the 1880s. It has photographs and a small collection. Entry is about US$2 to 3, and a visit takes 30 to 45 minutes.
  5. Sherif Harar City Museum: A traditional Harari house with a raised sitting platform, woven baskets, manuscripts and period dress. Entry is around US$2 to 4. Allow 30 to 45 minutes, best in the morning when staff will explain how the rooms work.
  6. Harar Jami Mosque: The city’s grand mosque, a plain white building with two minarets, from the 16th century. It is best seen from outside between prayers, free, in 15 to 30 minutes.
  7. Harar Brewery: A short ride from the old town, it brews Hakim stout and other beers that locals prize. Tours or a simple drink cost under US$3 to 5, and an hour suffices. Late afternoon is the best time.
From Harar, popular day trips reach the Dire Dawa railway quarter, Babile’s camel market and the Elephant Sanctuary, and the lake at Haramaya.
For a first visit, nothing beats a morning in the Jugol followed by the hyena feeding at dusk.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do in Harar

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🏘️ NeighborhoodsWhere things are and how it's laid out

Harar splits into two worlds, and the old walled city is where you will spend most of your time. Everything is within a 30 minute walk, so leave the bajaj for the outskirts.
  • Jugol (the walled old city): About 360 alleys wind through a space of roughly one square kilometer, so a map helps less than a local kid who offers to guide you. Alleys are narrow and the stone is uneven and slick after rain, so wear closed shoes. Expect the smell of roasting coffee, the sound of calls from the many mosques, and purple, ochre and turquoise walls. Walk it in the morning, before the midday glare flattens everything.
  • Feres Magala and Gidir Magala: The main square and the market streets beside it. Women sell spices, vegetables and baskets under bright umbrellas, and the crush is loud and sweet with clove and
… read more 👉
Harar splits into two worlds, and the old walled city is where you will spend most of your time. Everything is within a 30 minute walk, so leave the bajaj for the outskirts.
  • Jugol (the walled old city): About 360 alleys wind through a space of roughly one square kilometer, so a map helps less than a local kid who offers to guide you. Alleys are narrow and the stone is uneven and slick after rain, so wear closed shoes. Expect the smell of roasting coffee, the sound of calls from the many mosques, and purple, ochre and turquoise walls. Walk it in the morning, before the midday glare flattens everything.
  • Feres Magala and Gidir Magala: The main square and the market streets beside it. Women sell spices, vegetables and baskets under bright umbrellas, and the crush is loud and sweet with clove and chili. Prices are negotiable, so smile and counter at about half.
  • Harar Gate (Shoa Gate) area: The edge of the walls, where minibuses, bajaj and goods trucks jam together. Diesel fumes and shouting come with the territory. It is the practical hub, so pass through quickly.
  • Newer town (Harar Berhe side): Wide roads, the cathedral, cafés with juice and cake, and the brewery district. It is quieter and less atmospheric, but good for lunch breaks and ATMs.
  • Hyena feeding site: Just outside the wall at dusk, with a dusty yard, flashlights and a feeder who coaxes spotted hyenas with meat scraps. Go with a driver, as it is dark and unlit on the way back.

⌛️ 1 dayWhat you can realistically do in a day

The whole day is on foot inside the old walls, with a long lunch break when the midday sun flattens the alleys, and one short bajaj ride (a three-wheeled taxi) only if your legs call for it.
7:00 AM: Feres Magala Square
Start where the old town's main gate meets the market. Women in bright shawls spread out spices and vegetables, and the smell of roasting coffee drifts across the square. Walk in through Harar Gate (Duke's Gate) and you are in the maze within minutes.
8:30 AM: Rimbaud House and the Jugol alleys
The Arthur Rimbaud house sits uphill in the walled city, a carved wooden building with a small museum of old photographs. Entry is around US$2. Afterward, drift without a map through the lanes. The walls are painted blue, ochre and green, and you will pass some of the 82 mosques that Harar … read more 👉
The whole day is on foot inside the old walls, with a long lunch break when the midday sun flattens the alleys, and one short bajaj ride (a three-wheeled taxi) only if your legs call for it.
7:00 AM: Feres Magala Square
Start where the old town's main gate meets the market. Women in bright shawls spread out spices and vegetables, and the smell of roasting coffee drifts across the square. Walk in through Harar Gate (Duke's Gate) and you are in the maze within minutes.
8:30 AM: Rimbaud House and the Jugol alleys
The Arthur Rimbaud house sits uphill in the walled city, a carved wooden building with a small museum of old photographs. Entry is around US$2. Afterward, drift without a map through the lanes. The walls are painted blue, ochre and green, and you will pass some of the 82 mosques that Harar counts.
10:30 AM: Shoa Gate and Harari Cultural Centre
Walk down to the Harari Cultural Centre, a traditional house with the raised sitting platforms, woven baskets and wedding gear that explain how Harari families live. Allow 45 minutes. Pay entry of roughly US$1 to 2.
12:30 PM: Lunch and rest
Sit in a courtyard cafe for fish or a plate of local rice and a glass of sweet tea. Stay out of the glare until the afternoon.
3:00 PM: Mekina Girgir tailors' lane and Harar Jugol's lesser-known corners
Most visitors stay on the main drag, so turn into the quiet tailors' and silversmiths' alleys near the Mekina Girgir quarter, where sewing machines clatter in open doorways. Ask politely before taking photos.
5:30 PM: Hyena feeding outside Fatih Gate
Take a short bajaj ride to the walls just after sunset. The hyena men call the animals with soft chants and feed them scraps by hand, and for a small fee (about US$3 to 5) you can offer a piece yourself. Return the same way, as the old town is lit enough for the walk back to your bed.

🌤️ When to go?Choosing the right time of year

Harar sits at about 1,885 meters, so it stays mild all year, and the dry months of October to February are the easiest for walking the alleys.
  • Dry Season (October to February): Days run 24 to 27°C (75 to 81°F), nights cool to 10 to 13°C (50 to 55°F). Skies are clear and crowds peak around Christmas and Timkat in January, when bed prices rise.
  • Short Rains (March to May): Afternoon showers turn alleys slick but the hills turn green. Highs reach 27 to 30°C (81 to 86°F), and rooms are easy to find.
  • Main Rains (June to September): Cooler, 20 to 24°C (68 to 75°F), with frequent downpours and low cloud. Fewer tourists, and cheaper rooms. Dirt roads to nearby villages can become muddy.
  • Festivals: Shek Turkuj Sufi gatherings and Mawlid draw pilgrims, and the city fills up.
Book a bed a week ahead if your dates touch Ethiopian Christmas or Mawlid.

source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: excellent for travelingFEBFebruary: excellent for travelingMARMarch: highly recommended for travelingAPRApril: fair for travelingMAYMay: fair for travelingJUNJune: fair for travelingJULJuly: fair for travelingAUGAugust: fair for travelingSEPSeptember: good for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: excellent for travelingDECDecember: excellent for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Where staying makes the most sense

Sleep inside or right beside the old walls, since that puts the market, the mosques and every evening walk within a few minutes of your bed. Budget rooms and a handful of simple guesthouses cluster near the Harar Gate and Feres Magala, and dorm-style beds are scarce, so most backpackers book a cheap private or twin room at around US$8 to 20. Noise comes with the location: early calls to prayer, roosters and donkeys start before dawn, so pack earplugs. Streets here are lively but calm at night, and the short walk back to your door after dinner is usually fine, though a flashlight is smart where … read more 👉
Sleep inside or right beside the old walls, since that puts the market, the mosques and every evening walk within a few minutes of your bed. Budget rooms and a handful of simple guesthouses cluster near the Harar Gate and Feres Magala, and dorm-style beds are scarce, so most backpackers book a cheap private or twin room at around US$8 to 20. Noise comes with the location: early calls to prayer, roosters and donkeys start before dawn, so pack earplugs. Streets here are lively but calm at night, and the short walk back to your door after dinner is usually fine, though a flashlight is smart where alleys are unlit.
The second option is the newer town on the Harar Berhe side, which has quieter streets, more reliable hot water and power, and an easy walk or short bajaj ride to the gate. You give up atmosphere but gain sleep, and it works well if you arrive late by bus from Dire Dawa or Addis. Transport links are good from both areas, as minibuses and bajaj gather at the gate. Power cuts are common, so charge your devices when you can, and book ahead around Christmas, Timkat and Mawlid.

🚌 Getting aroundMoving around without the hassle

Harar’s bus station sits just outside the Harar Gate area, and from there bajaj (three-wheeled tuk-tuks) carry you to the center in 5 minutes for about US$0.40 to 0.80 per person, while walking takes 10 to 15 minutes along a dusty, honking road. The old city is compact, flat in the middle and scattered with stone steps, so most backpackers use their feet and only ride for the longer hops. Expect diesel, roasting coffee and goats underfoot.
  • Walking: Free and the best way to find the old city. Alleys are too narrow for vehicles, and getting lost is part of it. Go early, before heat and market crowds build, and keep a small bill ready for kids who offer guidance.
  • Bajaj: Blue three-wheelers buzz around town and run shared on fixed routes, with fares around US$0.15 to 0.40 within town. Private hires
… read more 👉
Harar’s bus station sits just outside the Harar Gate area, and from there bajaj (three-wheeled tuk-tuks) carry you to the center in 5 minutes for about US$0.40 to 0.80 per person, while walking takes 10 to 15 minutes along a dusty, honking road. The old city is compact, flat in the middle and scattered with stone steps, so most backpackers use their feet and only ride for the longer hops. Expect diesel, roasting coffee and goats underfoot.
  • Walking: Free and the best way to find the old city. Alleys are too narrow for vehicles, and getting lost is part of it. Go early, before heat and market crowds build, and keep a small bill ready for kids who offer guidance.
  • Bajaj: Blue three-wheelers buzz around town and run shared on fixed routes, with fares around US$0.15 to 0.40 within town. Private hires cost more, around US$1 to 2, so agree the price before you climb in. They operate from early morning until about 9 pm.
  • Minibuses: Cramped Toyota vans leave when full for Dire Dawa (about US$2 to 3, 1.5 to 2 hours), Jijiga and nearby villages. They fill faster in the morning, so arrive before 8 am. Luggage goes on the roof or on your lap.
  • Long-distance buses: Services to Addis Ababa take 9 to 11 hours and cost roughly US$10 to 18. Book the day before at the station, since tickets sell out, and expect a very early start.
  • Private driver or hired bajaj: For the hyena feeding at dusk or farther villages, a driver costs around US$5 to 10 for a few hours, which beats stumbling back in the dark.

👛 Costs (as of 22 October 2026)Money, prices, and spending tips

Harar costs roughly US$32 to 45 per day for a backpacker, with a total of about US$37 in high season, and most of that goes on a private room. The old city is cheap to eat in and to walk.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm or basic bed (high season)US$12 to 20Few true dorms, so a simple private room is the norm. Price rises at Christmas and Timkat.
Dorm or basic bed (off-season)US$8 to 14Easy to bargain from June to September.
MealsUS$6 to 10Local breakfasts around US$1 to 2, plates of meat or fish at casual restaurants around US$2 to 4.
Local transportUS$2 to 4Shared bajaj cost US$0.15 to 0.40 per ride.
City transport passNot availableNo pass exists. Pay each ride in cash.
Activities and entry feesUS$3 to 8Harar Gey museums and houses cost around US$1 to 3 each, and the hyena feeding is US$2
… read more 👉
Harar costs roughly US$32 to 45 per day for a backpacker, with a total of about US$37 in high season, and most of that goes on a private room. The old city is cheap to eat in and to walk.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm or basic bed (high season)US$12 to 20Few true dorms, so a simple private room is the norm. Price rises at Christmas and Timkat.
Dorm or basic bed (off-season)US$8 to 14Easy to bargain from June to September.
MealsUS$6 to 10Local breakfasts around US$1 to 2, plates of meat or fish at casual restaurants around US$2 to 4.
Local transportUS$2 to 4Shared bajaj cost US$0.15 to 0.40 per ride.
City transport passNot availableNo pass exists. Pay each ride in cash.
Activities and entry feesUS$3 to 8Harar Gey museums and houses cost around US$1 to 3 each, and the hyena feeding is US$2 to 5 with a tip.
MiscellaneousUS$2 to 4Water, coffee, SIM data.
Total Daily BudgetUS$37High season, mid-range choices for each row.
Split a bajaj or driver with other travelers for the hyena feeding, which brings the cost per person down by half.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsBest day trips from Harar

Harar works well for day trips because minibuses run early to nearby towns and villages, and you are back by evening.
Dire Dawa:
The railway-era city lies about 55 kilometers away, and minibuses take 1.5 to 2 hours for US$2 to 3 each way. Go for the sprawling Kefira market and the colonial-era streets of the old Megala quarter, then return before dark. Dry season is easiest, and first-timers often leave too late, so catch a van before 8 am.
👉 Explore Dire Dawa
Babile and the Elephant Sanctuary:
Babile lies about 30 kilometers east, with the camel market on Mondays and Thursdays and a sanctuary where wild elephants sometimes show up. A shared minibus costs about US$1 to 2, and a hired car for the sanctuary costs about US$40 to 60 split among passengers. Elephant sightings are not guaranteed, so … read more 👉
Harar works well for day trips because minibuses run early to nearby towns and villages, and you are back by evening.
Dire Dawa:
The railway-era city lies about 55 kilometers away, and minibuses take 1.5 to 2 hours for US$2 to 3 each way. Go for the sprawling Kefira market and the colonial-era streets of the old Megala quarter, then return before dark. Dry season is easiest, and first-timers often leave too late, so catch a van before 8 am.
👉 Explore Dire Dawa
Babile and the Elephant Sanctuary:
Babile lies about 30 kilometers east, with the camel market on Mondays and Thursdays and a sanctuary where wild elephants sometimes show up. A shared minibus costs about US$1 to 2, and a hired car for the sanctuary costs about US$40 to 60 split among passengers. Elephant sightings are not guaranteed, so go for the landscape and the market.

Haramaya Lake and Villages:
The lake region, about 20 kilometers away, is a short minibus ride of 30 to 45 minutes for under US$1. Locals grow khat and sorghum on the slopes, and the road offers views over the valley. The lake has shrunk and changed in recent years, so treat it as a viewpoint and not a swimming spot.

Kondudo and Hills:
A hired bajaj or car for a half day (around US$10 to 20) takes you up into the hills for views over the plateau and small village visits. Go in the morning when the air is clear, and bring water and a hat.

🍲 FoodLocal Flavors for Backpackers

Harar’s food leans on its Muslim and Somali-influenced traditions, so expect more fresh fish and goat, lighter spicing and noticeably different breakfasts than in Addis. The famous local Harari coffee is brewed strong and often served with a sprinkle of salt or spiced butter. Look for qinche, a porridge of cracked wheat, and gurgusa, a mild stew served with a flatbread that is not injera. Hanid, a roasted meat dish, appears on special days.
For snacks, try the sambusas and fresh juices layered in glass, with mango, avocado and papaya, from the stalls in the new town. Harar also has its own brewery, and its beer is cheap and cold at small bars. Cafés near the market sell coffee for under US$0.30 and local breakfasts at around US$1 to 2, so backpackers eat there.
Meals are communal, often eaten … read more 👉
Harar’s food leans on its Muslim and Somali-influenced traditions, so expect more fresh fish and goat, lighter spicing and noticeably different breakfasts than in Addis. The famous local Harari coffee is brewed strong and often served with a sprinkle of salt or spiced butter. Look for qinche, a porridge of cracked wheat, and gurgusa, a mild stew served with a flatbread that is not injera. Hanid, a roasted meat dish, appears on special days.
For snacks, try the sambusas and fresh juices layered in glass, with mango, avocado and papaya, from the stalls in the new town. Harar also has its own brewery, and its beer is cheap and cold at small bars. Cafés near the market sell coffee for under US$0.30 and local breakfasts at around US$1 to 2, so backpackers eat there.
Meals are communal, often eaten with the right hand, and it is polite to wash first. In the old city, women sell spices from baskets in the alleys, so buy a small bag of berbere or cloves to take home.

🛡️ SafetyScams, Hazards, and Annoyances

Harar is one of the calmer destinations in Ethiopia, and walking the old city by day is relaxed. The main annoyance is persistence: kids and young men offering guidance, hawkers and khat sellers who follow for a few steps. A firm but friendly “no, thank you” works, and agreeing a fee for a guide beforehand avoids a dispute later. Pickpocketing exists in the crowded market and around Harar Gate, so keep your phone and wallet in a front pocket. After dark, alleys are poorly lit, so carry a flashlight, or take a bajaj if you are alone. The hyena feeding is safe with a recognized feeder, but do not wander around the site without a driver. Dress modestly, since this is a conservative Muslim city, and ask before photographing people. Check current government advice for travel toward the border areas, and stay on main routes beyond town.

FAQCommon questions from travelers

Two days is enough for Harar’s old city, with a third if you want a day trip to Dire Dawa or Babile. Spend one day in the alleys and markets of Jugol, then visit the hyena feeding at dusk. Dire Dawa is 1.5 to 2 hours by minibus for about US$2 to 3.
Harar is considered safe for solo backpackers, including women, if they dress modestly and stay aware of crowded markets. Petty theft happens around Harar Gate and Feres Magala, so keep valuables in a front pocket. After dark, carry a flashlight or take a bajaj for US$1 to 2, since the alleys are poorly lit.
Harar is known for its walled old city of Jugol, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with about 360 alleys and over 80 mosques. It is also famous for its nightly hyena feedings just outside the wall and for its strong coffee. Expect to pay around US$1 to 3 for entry to the traditional Harari houses and museums.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Ethiopian cities near Harar

Explore more nearby:

  • Dire Dawa—French-built railway, Kafira market, old quarter alleys| 43 km away
  • Debre Berhan—Highland plateau, wool markets, Orthodox churches| 287 km away
  • Adama—Hot springs, transport hub, modern hotels| 326 km away

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We 💚 feedbackFinal thoughts on visiting Harar

Harar will please slow walkers, coffee drinkers and anyone curious about Islamic Ethiopia far more than box-tickers. It is small, crowded with touts at gates, and some sights are modest. I would wander without a guide for half a day, then hire a local only for the hyenas and the stories behind the doors.

✈️ When did I visit Ethiopia?
Ethiopia I visited back in October 2017. I combined the trip with a visit to Sudan. Ethiopia was a pure surprise with the magical scenery like the Danakil Depression and the Simien Mountains.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Ethiopia, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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👋 Meet the founderWho’s Behind Take Your Backpack?

Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

The goal is to provide realistic, experience-driven guidance — not generic itineraries — so you can explore destinations with better context, clearer expectations, and more confidence.