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Madagascar🇲🇬 | citiesAntananarivoAnalakely steps, Rova hilltop, Andravoahangy crafts, tin-roof views | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Antananarivo
🏆 Top pickcity ranked #1
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 16, 2026

A vendor on the Analakely steps pressed a paper cone of roasted peanuts into my hand, tapped the price on her palm, and said “Mora, mora,” easy, easy, as a minibus horn drowned out my attempt at Malagasy. Smoke from charcoal braziers, diesel and frying mofo gasy hung over the stairs. That is Antananarivo, in Madagascar’s central highlands: steep, loud, and brick-red in the afternoon light. It suits travelers who like markets, street food and people more than sights, and who can stomach chaotic traffic and uneven pavements. Spend your time in the Haute-Ville, the Rova hilltop and the Andravoahangy market. Skip the lakeside Anosy promenade after dark and any plan to see everything in a day. Hills are brutal with a big pack, but the view from the upper town is worth every step: thousands of tin roofs stacked down to rice paddies.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #1 city in Madagascar
What sets this place apart

Almost everyone arrives here because the international flights land at Ivato and the country’s road network radiates out from the capital. That makes it the place to sort your logistics: buy a SIM card, change money, book a 4x4 or a seat on a taxi-brousse, and stock up on supplies before heading to the west, south or the east coast. The city also rewards a short stay with a few things you can’t get on the road. Backpacker hostels and guesthouses cluster around the center, so meeting people to share a rented car is easy, and that alone can save serious money later. Food is another draw, with zebu brochettes, romazava stew and French-influenced bakeries in a country that is otherwise rice and simple stalls. Walking is possible but tiring, since the city is built on 12 historic hills and the … read more 👉
Almost everyone arrives here because the international flights land at Ivato and the country’s road network radiates out from the capital. That makes it the place to sort your logistics: buy a SIM card, change money, book a 4x4 or a seat on a taxi-brousse, and stock up on supplies before heading to the west, south or the east coast. The city also rewards a short stay with a few things you can’t get on the road. Backpacker hostels and guesthouses cluster around the center, so meeting people to share a rented car is easy, and that alone can save serious money later. Food is another draw, with zebu brochettes, romazava stew and French-influenced bakeries in a country that is otherwise rice and simple stalls. Walking is possible but tiring, since the city is built on 12 historic hills and the Analakely market area sits at the bottom of long staircases. Plan two or three nights, no more, unless you enjoy chaos.

💡 HighlightsEssential experiences to have while visiting Antananarivo

  1. Rova of Antananarivo (Queen’s Palace): The royal compound on the highest hill, rebuilt after a 1995 fire, with sweeping views over the city. Go in the morning for clear light. Entry runs about 25,000 to 50,000 ariary (US$6 to 11) including a guide, and it takes 1.5 to 2 hours.
  2. Analakely Market and Avenue de l’Indépendance: The old commercial heart, with fabric, produce and street snacks along the stepped Escalier du Rova. Mornings are liveliest. Free to wander, and an hour or two is plenty.
  3. Andravoahangy Craft Market: Stalls of wood carvings, raffia, silver, semi-precious stones and vanilla, good for comparing prices before you buy. Open most days until late afternoon. Free entry, allow 1 to 2 hours and bargain firmly.
  4. Lemur Park (Lemurs’ Park): A private reserve with free-roaming ring-tailed
… read more 👉
  1. Rova of Antananarivo (Queen’s Palace): The royal compound on the highest hill, rebuilt after a 1995 fire, with sweeping views over the city. Go in the morning for clear light. Entry runs about 25,000 to 50,000 ariary (US$6 to 11) including a guide, and it takes 1.5 to 2 hours.
  2. Analakely Market and Avenue de l’Indépendance: The old commercial heart, with fabric, produce and street snacks along the stepped Escalier du Rova. Mornings are liveliest. Free to wander, and an hour or two is plenty.
  3. Andravoahangy Craft Market: Stalls of wood carvings, raffia, silver, semi-precious stones and vanilla, good for comparing prices before you buy. Open most days until late afternoon. Free entry, allow 1 to 2 hours and bargain firmly.
  4. Lemur Park (Lemurs’ Park): A private reserve with free-roaming ring-tailed lemurs, sifakas and brown lemurs. Best in the morning when they are active. Entry is roughly US$15 to 25 and it takes about 2 hours.
  5. Haute-Ville and Andohalo Square: Old stone houses, the cathedral, and lanes of the upper town. Late afternoon light is lovely. Free, 1 to 2 hours.
  6. Lake Anosy and the Jacaranda Walk: A heart-shaped lake with a monument to fallen soldiers. October blooms turn the avenue purple. Free, about 30 to 45 minutes, daytime only.
  7. Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie: Collections on Malagasy burial traditions, textiles and regional cultures. Weekday mornings are calmest. Entry is cheap, around 10,000 ariary (US$2 to 3), allow 1 hour.
Day trips from the city include the royal hill of Ambohimanga, Lemurs’ Park by the Ikopa River and the village of Antsirabe for its pousse-pousse rides. Together the sights above fill two relaxed days.
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Things to do in Antananarivo

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🏘️ NeighborhoodsNeighborhood guide to Antananarivo

Tana sprawls over a dozen steep hills, so each area has its own pace, and your legs will notice the difference.
  • Analakely and the Avenue de l’Indépendance: The flat commercial heart, with a covered market, a 19th-century train station at the far end and pavements crowded with stalls selling secondhand shoes and fried snacks. Worth a morning for the noise and diesel haze, and it is the easiest area to cover on foot. Skip it after dark.
  • Haute-Ville (Upper Town): Cobbled lanes climb toward the Rova (Queen’s Palace), with brick-and-wood houses, cool stone passages and woodsmoke in the evenings. This is the one area I would spend half a day in. Views over the rice paddies at sunset are the best in the city, but the climbs are steep and the cobbles are uneven.
  • Isoraka: The café and restaurant district,
… read more 👉
Tana sprawls over a dozen steep hills, so each area has its own pace, and your legs will notice the difference.
  • Analakely and the Avenue de l’Indépendance: The flat commercial heart, with a covered market, a 19th-century train station at the far end and pavements crowded with stalls selling secondhand shoes and fried snacks. Worth a morning for the noise and diesel haze, and it is the easiest area to cover on foot. Skip it after dark.
  • Haute-Ville (Upper Town): Cobbled lanes climb toward the Rova (Queen’s Palace), with brick-and-wood houses, cool stone passages and woodsmoke in the evenings. This is the one area I would spend half a day in. Views over the rice paddies at sunset are the best in the city, but the climbs are steep and the cobbles are uneven.
  • Isoraka: The café and restaurant district, with leafy side streets, bakeries and a handful of small bars. Quieter than downtown and pleasant for an evening meal. Walkable from Analakely in about 15 minutes, mostly uphill.
  • Antaninarenina: A small business quarter around a square with banks and craft shops, calm by Tana standards. Useful for changing money, not for lingering.
  • Andravoahangy: Home of the craft market, with rows of carved wood, raffia and wooden models of zebu carts. Bargain hard and go in the morning, when the light is soft and the crowds are thin.
  • Ambohimanga outskirts and Ivandry: Residential and suburban, with little to see. Not worth your time unless you are heading to a specific address.

⌛️ 1 dayA smart one-day plan

8:00 AM: Analakely Market. Start where the city wakes first, with vendors setting out vegetables, fabric and fried pastries. Eat a few mofo gasy and a coffee, then walk up the steep Escalier du Rova toward the old town.
10:00 AM: Haute-Ville and Andohalo Square. Wander the narrow lanes past old stone houses and the cathedral, stopping at viewpoints over the roofs and rice fields. Keep walking uphill to the palace, which is a short climb from the square.
11:30 AM: Rova of Antananarivo. Take a guided tour of the royal compound for the history of the Merina kings and the view across the capital. Allow about 90 minutes, then head downhill for lunch.
1:30 PM: Lunch in the Isoraka district. Order romazava or zebu brochettes at a local restaurant, then walk or take a short taxi ride to the next stop. … read more 👉
8:00 AM: Analakely Market. Start where the city wakes first, with vendors setting out vegetables, fabric and fried pastries. Eat a few mofo gasy and a coffee, then walk up the steep Escalier du Rova toward the old town.
10:00 AM: Haute-Ville and Andohalo Square. Wander the narrow lanes past old stone houses and the cathedral, stopping at viewpoints over the roofs and rice fields. Keep walking uphill to the palace, which is a short climb from the square.
11:30 AM: Rova of Antananarivo. Take a guided tour of the royal compound for the history of the Merina kings and the view across the capital. Allow about 90 minutes, then head downhill for lunch.
1:30 PM: Lunch in the Isoraka district. Order romazava or zebu brochettes at a local restaurant, then walk or take a short taxi ride to the next stop.
3:00 PM: Musée d’Art et d’Archéologie. This quieter museum on the university campus is often skipped by travelers and gives context on burial customs and regional cultures. It takes about an hour.
4:30 PM: Andravoahangy Craft Market. Browse carvings, raffia bags and vanilla, comparing prices at several stalls before you buy. Go early enough to bargain at ease.
6:00 PM: Lake Anosy. Finish with a slow loop at dusk while the light turns the hills orange. Take a taxi back to your guesthouse rather than walking in the dark.

🌤️ When to go?Weather, crowds, and seasonal trade-offs

The cool, dry months from May to October suit Antananarivo best, though nights at 1,280 m can bite.
  • Cool Dry Season (May to September): Days run 20 to 24°C (68 to 75°F) and nights drop to 8 to 12°C (46 to 54°F), occasionally lower in July. Skies are mostly clear, and daylight lasts about 11 hours. Pack a fleece.
  • Hot Season (October to December): Highs reach 26 to 28°C (79 to 82°F), with afternoon thunderstorms building through November. Crowds thin out, but flights and hotels are cheaper than in July and August.
  • Rainy Season (January to March): Warm and humid at 22 to 27°C (72 to 81°F), with heavy afternoon downpours that flood low streets. Cyclone risk is higher on the coast, which can disrupt onward flights and roads.
  • Peak Crowds and Prices: July to August and the Christmas period see the highest
… read more 👉
The cool, dry months from May to October suit Antananarivo best, though nights at 1,280 m can bite.
  • Cool Dry Season (May to September): Days run 20 to 24°C (68 to 75°F) and nights drop to 8 to 12°C (46 to 54°F), occasionally lower in July. Skies are mostly clear, and daylight lasts about 11 hours. Pack a fleece.
  • Hot Season (October to December): Highs reach 26 to 28°C (79 to 82°F), with afternoon thunderstorms building through November. Crowds thin out, but flights and hotels are cheaper than in July and August.
  • Rainy Season (January to March): Warm and humid at 22 to 27°C (72 to 81°F), with heavy afternoon downpours that flood low streets. Cyclone risk is higher on the coast, which can disrupt onward flights and roads.
  • Peak Crowds and Prices: July to August and the Christmas period see the highest fares and busiest hostels.
Book your onward transport early for June through August, and keep a rain jacket handy from November on.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: excellent for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: highly recommended for travelingAUGAugust: highly recommended for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?Where staying makes the most sense

Isoraka and the streets around Analakely are the best bases for a budget stay in Antananarivo. Dorm beds and cheap private rooms cluster here, mostly priced around 20,000 to 45,000 ariary (US$4.50 to 10) for a bed.
Isoraka is quieter and greener, with cafés and restaurants within a few minutes’ walk. After dark the streets are fairly calm, and a short taxi ride covers any gaps. Hills are steep, so a room at the bottom of a staircase saves you effort with a heavy pack. Noise comes mostly from dogs and early morning roosters rather than traffic.
The streets around Analakely are the transport hub, … read more 👉
Isoraka and the streets around Analakely are the best bases for a budget stay in Antananarivo. Dorm beds and cheap private rooms cluster here, mostly priced around 20,000 to 45,000 ariary (US$4.50 to 10) for a bed.
Isoraka is quieter and greener, with cafés and restaurants within a few minutes’ walk. After dark the streets are fairly calm, and a short taxi ride covers any gaps. Hills are steep, so a room at the bottom of a staircase saves you effort with a heavy pack. Noise comes mostly from dogs and early morning roosters rather than traffic.
The streets around Analakely are the transport hub, with taxi-be lines running in every direction and the main train and bus links nearby. Everything is within reach on foot, but it is louder, with traffic, hawkers and early starts. Quiet after dark is hard to find, and the area is best left by taxi late at night. Rooms facing the street can be loud, so ask for a back-facing bed.
Both areas make airport pickups straightforward, and the road from the airport takes roughly 45 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on traffic. Book ahead from June to August, since the best-value dorms fill early.

🚌 Getting aroundGetting around like a local

A ride on a taxi-be (the minibuses that cover the whole city) costs about 600 to 1,000 ariary (US$0.15 to 0.25), paid in cash in small notes to the fare collector who hangs out of the door. Tana is walkable in the center but hilly, and traffic is slow and thick with fumes at rush hour. Public transport is cheap and widespread but chaotic.
  • Taxi-be: Colored lines and numbers are painted on the side, and the conductor shouts destinations as you squeeze in. They run from about 5:30 am to 8 or 9 pm. They are the best value, but crowded, so keep your bag on your lap. Learn your route before boarding, as maps are scarce.
  • Taxis: Small, often battered Renault and Peugeot cars, with no meters, so agree the fare first. Short trips cost 8,000 to 15,000 ariary (US$2 to 3.50) and the airport run is typically
… read more 👉
A ride on a taxi-be (the minibuses that cover the whole city) costs about 600 to 1,000 ariary (US$0.15 to 0.25), paid in cash in small notes to the fare collector who hangs out of the door. Tana is walkable in the center but hilly, and traffic is slow and thick with fumes at rush hour. Public transport is cheap and widespread but chaotic.
  • Taxi-be: Colored lines and numbers are painted on the side, and the conductor shouts destinations as you squeeze in. They run from about 5:30 am to 8 or 9 pm. They are the best value, but crowded, so keep your bag on your lap. Learn your route before boarding, as maps are scarce.
  • Taxis: Small, often battered Renault and Peugeot cars, with no meters, so agree the fare first. Short trips cost 8,000 to 15,000 ariary (US$2 to 3.50) and the airport run is typically 35,000 to 50,000 ariary (US$8 to 11). Worth it after dark, or when you carry luggage.
  • Walking: The best way to see Haute-Ville and Analakely. Stairs are steep, sidewalks are broken or crowded with stalls, and cars rarely stop for pedestrians. Allow extra time for the hills.
  • Pousse-pousse: Hand-pulled rickshaws, mostly in the old center. The effort of the pullers is visible, so many travelers find the ride uncomfortable. Fares are negotiable, usually 2,000 to 5,000 ariary (US$0.50 to 1.10) for short hops. I would skip them unless you want a short ride and are happy to pay a fair price.
  • Ride-hailing apps: Moto and car apps operate in the city. Prices are close to taxis, but you avoid haggling. Handy for evening trips, though availability depends on the area.

👛 Costs (as of 16 October 2026)Typical daily expenses

Backpacking in Antananarivo costs roughly US$20 to 50 a day, with a comfortable low end if you eat locally and use taxi-be.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm (high season)US$6 to 12Beds fill in July and August, especially in Isoraka.
Dorm (off-season)US$4.50 to 9Discounts are easier from January to March.
MealsUS$5 to 12Hotely meals cost US$1 to 2, while a sit-down café meal is US$6 to 10.
Local transportUS$1 to 5Taxi-be rides cost US$0.15 to 0.25, taxis US$2 to 4 per short trip.
City transport passNot availableNo pass exists, so pay per ride in cash.
Activities and entry feesUS$5 to 15Rova and Ambohimanga entries run about US$5 to 6 each, plus guides.
MiscellaneousUS$3 to 6Water, SIM data and small tips.
Total Daily BudgetUS$20 to 50Based on a high-season dorm bed.
Eat at hotely for lunch, since a full plate costs a fraction of café prices.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsBest day trips from Antananarivo

Tana works well as a base for day trips, with several highlights reachable in under two hours, though roads are slow and often congested.Ambohimanga: The hilltop royal compound and UNESCO World Heritage Site lies about 20 km north, roughly 45 minutes to 1 hour by taxi-brousse or taxi. Entry is around 25,000 ariary (US$5.50) with a guide. Go in the morning, when the stone gateways and fig trees are quiet. A common mistake is arriving after lunch, when the light is flat and many guides are gone.
Lemurs’ Park: A private reserve about 22 km southwest where ring-tailed and sifaka lemurs roam semi-free among bamboo and orchids. Allow 1 to 1.5 hours each way by taxi, with a combined cost of roughly US$25 to 35 for transport and entry. It is the easiest lemur encounter near the capital, best in the … read more 👉
Tana works well as a base for day trips, with several highlights reachable in under two hours, though roads are slow and often congested.Ambohimanga: The hilltop royal compound and UNESCO World Heritage Site lies about 20 km north, roughly 45 minutes to 1 hour by taxi-brousse or taxi. Entry is around 25,000 ariary (US$5.50) with a guide. Go in the morning, when the stone gateways and fig trees are quiet. A common mistake is arriving after lunch, when the light is flat and many guides are gone.
Lemurs’ Park: A private reserve about 22 km southwest where ring-tailed and sifaka lemurs roam semi-free among bamboo and orchids. Allow 1 to 1.5 hours each way by taxi, with a combined cost of roughly US$25 to 35 for transport and entry. It is the easiest lemur encounter near the capital, best in the dry months. Visit mid-morning, since the animals tend to nap later.
👉 Explore Lemurs’ ParkAndasibe-Mantadia National Park: The country’s best-known place to hear the indri’s haunting calls lies roughly 140 km east, about 3 to 4 hours by shared taxi-brousse. It is a long day, but doable, with transport around US$8 to 12 each way and park fees about US$20 to 25 plus a guide. The trip is better as an early start, and many first-timers underestimate the time lost on the road. Best from April to November.
👉 Explore Andasibe-Mantadia National ParkAntsirabe: The cool highland spa town sits about 170 km south, around 3 to 4 hours by minibus, and is known for pousse-pousse rides, craft workshops and colonial buildings. Transport is US$4 to 7 each way, and the day is tight, so leave early and return before dark.
👉 Explore Antsirabe

🍲 FoodEating & Drinking in Antananarivo

Antananarivo sits in the highlands, so the food leans on rice, zebu beef and freshwater fish from the surrounding paddies. The classic here is romazava, a brothy zebu stew with leafy greens called brèdes, usually served with a mound of rice and a spoonful of fiery sakay chili paste. Try ravitoto, pounded cassava leaves cooked with pork, which has a deep, grassy flavor.
For street food, head to Analakely in the morning, where women fry mofo gasy (rice flour bread) and mofo akondro (banana fritters) on charcoal braziers. Cheap hotely (small local eateries) serve a plate of rice and meat or fish for about 4,000 to 8,000 ariary (US$1 to 1.80). You will find them in every neighborhood, and the best have a line at lunch.
Highland coffee and fresh baked pastries are a French inheritance, found in the … read more 👉
Antananarivo sits in the highlands, so the food leans on rice, zebu beef and freshwater fish from the surrounding paddies. The classic here is romazava, a brothy zebu stew with leafy greens called brèdes, usually served with a mound of rice and a spoonful of fiery sakay chili paste. Try ravitoto, pounded cassava leaves cooked with pork, which has a deep, grassy flavor.
For street food, head to Analakely in the morning, where women fry mofo gasy (rice flour bread) and mofo akondro (banana fritters) on charcoal braziers. Cheap hotely (small local eateries) serve a plate of rice and meat or fish for about 4,000 to 8,000 ariary (US$1 to 1.80). You will find them in every neighborhood, and the best have a line at lunch.
Highland coffee and fresh baked pastries are a French inheritance, found in the cafés of Isoraka. For drinks, THB beer is the local lager, and rhum arrangé (rum infused with vanilla, ginger or lychee) is a popular after-dinner sip. Locals often finish a meal with ranovola, a tea made from the toasted rice crust at the bottom of the pot.

🛡️ SafetyStaying Safe: What Travelers Should Know

Antananarivo is manageable for most travelers, but petty theft is the main issue and the city has an edge that demands attention. Pickpockets work crowded taxi-be lines, the Analakely market and the area around the train station, so carry a small daypack on your front and keep your phone out of sight. Phones are sometimes snatched through open car windows, especially in traffic.
Walking alone after dark is the main risk. Stick to well-lit streets like those in Isoraka, and take a taxi even for short distances once the streets empty, usually after 8 pm. Avoid walking with valuables on dimly lit backstreets.
Scams are mostly small-scale, such as inflated taxi fares, unsolicited guides at the Rova and persistent souvenir sellers. Agree on a price first, say a polite no, and keep walking. Carry … read more 👉
Antananarivo is manageable for most travelers, but petty theft is the main issue and the city has an edge that demands attention. Pickpockets work crowded taxi-be lines, the Analakely market and the area around the train station, so carry a small daypack on your front and keep your phone out of sight. Phones are sometimes snatched through open car windows, especially in traffic.
Walking alone after dark is the main risk. Stick to well-lit streets like those in Isoraka, and take a taxi even for short distances once the streets empty, usually after 8 pm. Avoid walking with valuables on dimly lit backstreets.
Scams are mostly small-scale, such as inflated taxi fares, unsolicited guides at the Rova and persistent souvenir sellers. Agree on a price first, say a polite no, and keep walking. Carry only the cash you need for the day. Women traveling solo often get attention but it is usually verbal, and a firm answer works.

FAQFrequently asked questions about Antananarivo

Two to three days is enough for Antananarivo itself. That covers the Haute-Ville and Rova in one half-day, the Analakely market and Andravoahangy crafts in another, plus a trip to Ambohimanga, about 45 minutes to 1 hour away. Add one more day if you want to visit Lemurs’ Park or Andasibe.
Yes, with some care. Daytime is fine in areas like Isoraka and Haute-Ville, but pickpocketing is common in Analakely and on taxi-be. Take taxis after about 8 pm, which cost roughly US$2 to 4 for short rides, and avoid carrying your phone openly.
Antananarivo is known for its steep hillside layout, its colonial-era brick houses and the Rova, the former royal palace in the Haute-Ville. It is also the gateway to Madagascar’s lemur reserves, with Lemurs’ Park only 1 to 1.5 hours away. The city’s markets, including Analakely and Andravoahangy craft market, are among its best-known sights.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Malagasy cities near Antananarivo

Explore more nearby:

  • Antsirabe—Colonial station, rickshaw loops, horn workshops, thermal spa| 119 km away
  • Ambatondrazaka—Lake Alaotra base, rice-grade market, paddy dikes, tilapia grills| 151 km away
  • Fianarantsoa—Betsileo old quarter, stone lanes, FCE train, highland vineyards| 287 km away

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We 💚 feedbackFinal thoughts on visiting Antananarivo

Many travelers try to see the whole city on foot in one day and burn out on the hills. Pick two districts a day, take short taxis between them, and leave before dark. I would also book my onward transport the day I arrive, because the good seats fill quickly.

✈️ When did I visit Madagascar?
Madagascar I went backpacking in October 2019. With a friend I rented a 4WD and drove around the southern part of Madagascar.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Madagascar, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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