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Peru🇵🇪 | townsAguas CalientesCanyon railhead, hot springs, Mandor waterfall trail, craft market | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Aguas Calientes
🏆 Top picktown ranked #1
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 19, 2026

Years ago, Aguas Calientes was a rough railway camp where hikers ate on plastic chairs and left the moment the ruins closed. Today it is a steep, tightly packed town of hostels, pizza counters and restaurant touts, and it still exists to serve one mountain. It sits in the Urubamba canyon in Peru’s Cusco region, northwest of Cusco city and directly below Machu Picchu. No road reaches it, so you arrive by train or on foot along the tracks. A guesthouse owner told me, “Come for the ruins, stay for the river,” and she was right. Skip the fixed-menu restaurants on the main drag and spend your hours on the first bus up, the Mandor trail and the hot springs. Hostels are plentiful and evenings are sociable, so meeting other backpackers is easy over a pisco sour or in a pre-dawn queue. Unlike Ollantaytambo, which has real Inca streets and a living village, Aguas Calientes is a purpose-built launchpad: perfect for one night, tiresome for three.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #1 town in Peru
Why Aguas Calientes should be on your travel list

Aguas Calientes is the only practical place to sleep before Machu Picchu, and that alone decides most itineraries. Stay the night before and you can be in the first bus line while day-trippers are still on the train from Cusco. That early start is the real draw, because the citadel is quieter and cooler before the big groups arrive.
Most backpackers stay one night, a few stay two, and the second night is usually a smart move. It lets you hike Mandor Gardens and its waterfall or soak in the Termas Calientes without racing a train timetable. The town is a few streets stacked along the Vilcanota-fed Aguas Calientes River, so you can walk everywhere, and the hostels fill with people comparing entry slots and circuits.
Solo travelers will find it easy to team up for a hike or a dinner. Slow travelers … read more 👉
Aguas Calientes is the only practical place to sleep before Machu Picchu, and that alone decides most itineraries. Stay the night before and you can be in the first bus line while day-trippers are still on the train from Cusco. That early start is the real draw, because the citadel is quieter and cooler before the big groups arrive.
Most backpackers stay one night, a few stay two, and the second night is usually a smart move. It lets you hike Mandor Gardens and its waterfall or soak in the Termas Calientes without racing a train timetable. The town is a few streets stacked along the Vilcanota-fed Aguas Calientes River, so you can walk everywhere, and the hostels fill with people comparing entry slots and circuits.
Solo travelers will find it easy to team up for a hike or a dinner. Slow travelers will run out of things to do quickly. If you want nightlife, pick another town. If you want a well-placed bed, a hot soak and a clear head before an early alarm, this works well.

💡 HighlightsThe experiences that define the visit

  1. Termas Calientes (hot springs): The town’s namesake pools sit up the hill, with a few stone-lined basins of different temperatures under forest. Go in the evening after the citadel, when your legs ache and the day-trippers are gone. Entry is about US$5 to 6, and an hour or two is plenty. Bring a swimsuit and a towel, or rent them at the gate.
  2. Mandor Gardens and Waterfall: A flat trail along the Mandor River leads through orchid and bromeliad forest to a waterfall of about 30 meters. It is the best quiet outing in town, with birdsong instead of touts. Go in the morning. Entry is roughly US$3 to 6, and the return walk takes 2 to 3 hours.
  3. Museo de Sitio Manuel Chávez Ballón: Set at the foot of the Machu Picchu road, this small museum shows the tools, ceramics and construction methods of the citadel,
… read more 👉
  1. Termas Calientes (hot springs): The town’s namesake pools sit up the hill, with a few stone-lined basins of different temperatures under forest. Go in the evening after the citadel, when your legs ache and the day-trippers are gone. Entry is about US$5 to 6, and an hour or two is plenty. Bring a swimsuit and a towel, or rent them at the gate.
  2. Mandor Gardens and Waterfall: A flat trail along the Mandor River leads through orchid and bromeliad forest to a waterfall of about 30 meters. It is the best quiet outing in town, with birdsong instead of touts. Go in the morning. Entry is roughly US$3 to 6, and the return walk takes 2 to 3 hours.
  3. Museo de Sitio Manuel Chávez Ballón: Set at the foot of the Machu Picchu road, this small museum shows the tools, ceramics and construction methods of the citadel, plus a garden of native plants. It helps you read the ruins properly before you go up. Entry is around US$4 to 6, and you need 45 minutes to an hour.
  4. Mercado Artesanal: The craft market beside the train station is crowded with alpaca sweaters, silver and carved gourds. Prices start high and bargaining is expected, so offer about half and settle near two thirds. Browsing is free and takes 30 to 45 minutes. Go in the late afternoon when vendors are keen to close deals.
  5. Plaza de Armas and the Pachacútec statue: The small main square has a bronze statue of the Inca ruler Pachacútec, associated with Machu Picchu’s construction, looking over a church and the town’s main cafés. It is a good place to sit with a coffee and watch the train arrivals. It costs nothing and takes about 20 minutes. Evening is best, when lights come on along the river.
Beyond town, you can reach Machu Picchu itself, Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain, the Inti Punku sun gate and the Putucusi trail as day outings from here. Mandor Gardens in the morning and the hot springs in the evening make a very good pairing in one day.
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Things to do around Aguas Calientes

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🏘️ NeighborhoodsUnderstanding the local layout

Aguas Calientes is tiny, so you can cover every corner on foot in an afternoon, and each corner has a clear job. Here is where to spend your time.
  • Plaza de Armas and the Main Drag: Start here. Restaurants with touts waving menus line the streets around the plaza, and the set-menu lunches are fine fuel but rarely memorable. Stroll through, snap the plaza, then move on. Ten minutes is plenty.
  • Railway Street (Avenida Pachacutec and the tracks): Trains rumble straight through the middle of town, and walking the tracks gives you the most atmospheric stretch, with the Urubamba River roaring alongside. Great for people-watching at dusk, and the bars here pour happy-hour two-for-one cocktails that fill up fast.
  • Mercado Artesanal: A maze of stalls near the train station selling alpaca sweaters, ceramics
… read more 👉
Aguas Calientes is tiny, so you can cover every corner on foot in an afternoon, and each corner has a clear job. Here is where to spend your time.
  • Plaza de Armas and the Main Drag: Start here. Restaurants with touts waving menus line the streets around the plaza, and the set-menu lunches are fine fuel but rarely memorable. Stroll through, snap the plaza, then move on. Ten minutes is plenty.
  • Railway Street (Avenida Pachacutec and the tracks): Trains rumble straight through the middle of town, and walking the tracks gives you the most atmospheric stretch, with the Urubamba River roaring alongside. Great for people-watching at dusk, and the bars here pour happy-hour two-for-one cocktails that fill up fast.
  • Mercado Artesanal: A maze of stalls near the train station selling alpaca sweaters, ceramics and trinkets. Haggle hard, and compare three stalls before buying. Skip it if souvenirs bore you, but it is an easy browse while you wait for a train.
  • Hot Springs (Termas Calientes): A 10 to 15 minute uphill walk from the plaza. The pools are warm, crowded and a bit murky, but a soak after the ruins loosens tired legs. Go in the evening, bring a towel and flip-flops, and treat it as a cheap recovery session, not a spa.
  • Mercado Central and Back Streets: Climb the side streets away from the tourist strip to find the local market, where juice stalls and no-frills lunch counters feed locals for far less. This is the best eating in town. Dive in.
  • Manuel Chávez Ballón Site Museum Road: The path along the river toward the museum is flat, shady and quiet. Worth it for the orchid garden and the context on Machu Picchu before you go up. Nightlife is nearly absent here, so it suits an early start.

⌛️ 1 dayWhat you can realistically do in a day

6:00 AM: Mercado and Avenida Pachacútec
The whole day happens on foot, because Aguas Calientes has no real roads for cars and the only vehicles are the buses climbing to Machu Picchu. Start with coffee and a roll from a market stall near the train tracks while the town wakes up and the first buses rumble past.

7:00 AM: Machu Picchu or the Mandor trail
If you hold a ticket for the ruins, queue early at the bus stop by the river and ride the switchbacks up. Without one, walk the flat railway track toward Mandor instead, about 2 hours round trip along the Urubamba, where the cloud forest drips and orchids cling to the trunks.

11:30 AM: Mandor Gardens and waterfall
Pay the small entry (around US$3 to 6) for the garden path, a short stroll to a waterfall where you can cool your face in the spray. … read more 👉
6:00 AM: Mercado and Avenida Pachacútec
The whole day happens on foot, because Aguas Calientes has no real roads for cars and the only vehicles are the buses climbing to Machu Picchu. Start with coffee and a roll from a market stall near the train tracks while the town wakes up and the first buses rumble past.

7:00 AM: Machu Picchu or the Mandor trail
If you hold a ticket for the ruins, queue early at the bus stop by the river and ride the switchbacks up. Without one, walk the flat railway track toward Mandor instead, about 2 hours round trip along the Urubamba, where the cloud forest drips and orchids cling to the trunks.

11:30 AM: Mandor Gardens and waterfall
Pay the small entry (around US$3 to 6) for the garden path, a short stroll to a waterfall where you can cool your face in the spray. Hummingbirds work the flowers along the way. Walk back along the tracks toward town.

1:30 PM: Lunch on Calle Collasuyo
Sit down for a long, unhurried meal while the afternoon heat and humidity peak. Order a set menu with trout or alpaca and ask for a pisco sour if your legs have earned it. Expect plenty of English menus and fair food.

3:30 PM: Museo de Sitio Manuel Chávez Ballón
Follow the river downstream to this small museum near the foot of the trail from town. It explains how Inca engineers built the citadel and shows tools and ceramics found at the site. It is quiet, takes about 45 minutes, and few people walk this far.

5:00 PM: Hot springs
Climb the stairs along Avenida Pachacútec to the thermal baths that give the town its name. Entry runs roughly US$5 to 6, and the pools are warm, crowded and ideal for sore legs. Bring a swimsuit and a towel.

7:30 PM: Dinner by the river
Finish at a small spot along the Vilcanota, where the water roars loud enough to cover conversation. Share a pizza or a plate of lomo saltado with whoever sits nearby, since hostel crowds tend to gather here before early alarms.

🌤️ When to go?Seasonal considerations and timing

May to September is the dry season, with sunny days and cold nights, and it is also when Machu Picchu tickets sell out weeks ahead.
  • Dry Season (May to September): Days reach 20 to 25°C (68 to 77°F) and nights drop to 8 to 10°C (46 to 50°F). Daylight runs roughly 11.5 to 12 hours. Trains, hotels and entry slots cost the most, and the Inca Trail books out months early.
  • Shoulder Months (April and October to November): Showers appear but mornings are often clear. Crowds thin, and prices soften a little. This is a smart window for hiking.
  • Wet Season (December to March): Highs sit around 20 to 24°C (68 to 75°F) with heavy rain most afternoons and low cloud over the ruins. Landslides can disrupt trains, and the Inca Trail closes in February. Beds are cheapest and the site is quietest.
  • Peak Holidays (July
… read more 👉
May to September is the dry season, with sunny days and cold nights, and it is also when Machu Picchu tickets sell out weeks ahead.
  • Dry Season (May to September): Days reach 20 to 25°C (68 to 77°F) and nights drop to 8 to 10°C (46 to 50°F). Daylight runs roughly 11.5 to 12 hours. Trains, hotels and entry slots cost the most, and the Inca Trail books out months early.
  • Shoulder Months (April and October to November): Showers appear but mornings are often clear. Crowds thin, and prices soften a little. This is a smart window for hiking.
  • Wet Season (December to March): Highs sit around 20 to 24°C (68 to 75°F) with heavy rain most afternoons and low cloud over the ruins. Landslides can disrupt trains, and the Inca Trail closes in February. Beds are cheapest and the site is quietest.
  • Peak Holidays (July and August, Peruvian Independence week in late July): Expect the fullest trains and highest prices all year.
Book your Machu Picchu entry before anything else, then build your dates around it.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: highly recommended for travelingMAYMay: excellent for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
when-to-go

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🛏️ Where to stay?Best areas and accommodation options

Stay within a few blocks of the Plaza de Armas and the train station, because Aguas Calientes is so compact that location barely changes your walk. Hostels and budget guesthouses cluster here, with dorm beds starting around US$10 to 20 and private rooms from US$25 to 45. Availability tightens fast from May to September, so book ahead.

The streets near the station and the railway line are the most convenient for early trains and the 5:30 am bus line, but they are also the loudest. Trains run through town all day and into the evening, and bar music drifts from the main strip until late. Bring earplugs … read more 👉
Stay within a few blocks of the Plaza de Armas and the train station, because Aguas Calientes is so compact that location barely changes your walk. Hostels and budget guesthouses cluster here, with dorm beds starting around US$10 to 20 and private rooms from US$25 to 45. Availability tightens fast from May to September, so book ahead.

The streets near the station and the railway line are the most convenient for early trains and the 5:30 am bus line, but they are also the loudest. Trains run through town all day and into the evening, and bar music drifts from the main strip until late. Bring earplugs and ask for a back-facing room.

The quieter option is the uphill streets toward the hot springs and the area near the market. You trade a slightly longer stroll to the bus stop (10 to 15 minutes) for calmer nights and lower prices. Street lighting is decent, and the town is small enough to walk at night without worry.

If you plan to hit the first bus, sleeping near the river side of town keeps your pre-dawn walk under 10 minutes. Everything is walkable, so pick based on noise tolerance and your budget.

🚌 Getting aroundHow to get around Aguas Calientes

Your own feet carry you around Aguas Calientes, because the whole town is walkable in about 15 minutes end to end and no cars are allowed on most streets. Only a handful of electric vehicles and buses operate here, so there are no traffic jams, no taxi hassles and no apps to download. The real transport story is getting up to Machu Picchu and getting in or out of town, which happens by rail or foot.
  • Walking: Free and the fastest way to see everything in town. Streets are steep in spots and stone paths get slick in rain, so wear shoes with grip. The hot springs, market and museum are all within a 5 to 20 minute stroll.
  • Consettur Bus to Machu Picchu: Shuttle buses climb the switchbacks in about 25 minutes and cost around US$12 each way (US$24 round trip). Lines form before dawn, and the first
… read more 👉
Your own feet carry you around Aguas Calientes, because the whole town is walkable in about 15 minutes end to end and no cars are allowed on most streets. Only a handful of electric vehicles and buses operate here, so there are no traffic jams, no taxi hassles and no apps to download. The real transport story is getting up to Machu Picchu and getting in or out of town, which happens by rail or foot.
  • Walking: Free and the fastest way to see everything in town. Streets are steep in spots and stone paths get slick in rain, so wear shoes with grip. The hot springs, market and museum are all within a 5 to 20 minute stroll.
  • Consettur Bus to Machu Picchu: Shuttle buses climb the switchbacks in about 25 minutes and cost around US$12 each way (US$24 round trip). Lines form before dawn, and the first buses leave around 5:30 am. Worth paying if you want to arrive fresh and avoid a sweaty start.
  • Hiking the Stairs: The steep footpath up to the gate takes about 1 to 1.5 hours and is free. I would take it on the way up only if you are fit and want to be at the gate early. Skip it in heavy rain. Tickets for the site itself are separate.
  • Train (Inca Rail and PeruRail): The only direct rail link to Ollantaytambo and Cusco region departures, taking roughly 1.5 to 2 hours to Ollantaytambo. Backpacker-class seats run about US$60 to 100 one way and sell out in high season, so book ahead online.
  • Hydroelectric Route on Foot: The cheapest way in is a bus or colectivo to Hidroeléctrica (about 6 to 8 hours from Cusco, US$15 to 30), then a flat 10 km (6 mile) walk along the tracks, about 2 to 3 hours. It saves serious money over the train and the jungle walk is a highlight itself. Start early to finish before dark.

👛 Costs (as of 19 October 2026)Money, prices, and spending tips

A realistic backpacker budget in Aguas Calientes is about US$42 to 134 a day, excluding Machu Picchu entry and train fare, since this is one of the priciest small towns in Peru.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm AccommodationUS$12 to 25Beds fill quickly in high season (May to September), and rates fall in the wet months.
MealsUS$15 to 30Set-menu lunches run US$5 to 10 in the market area, while tourist-strip dinners cost US$12 to 20.
Local TransportUS$0 to 24Walking is free, and the round-trip shuttle bus to the ruins is about US$24.
Basic Activities/Entry FeesUS$10 to 40Hot springs cost about US$5 to 6, and Mandor Gardens about US$3 to 6. Machu Picchu entry runs about US$40 to 60 extra.
Miscellaneous ExpensesUS$5 to 15Bottled water, snacks, a beer and laundry cost more here because everything
… read more 👉
A realistic backpacker budget in Aguas Calientes is about US$42 to 134 a day, excluding Machu Picchu entry and train fare, since this is one of the priciest small towns in Peru.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm AccommodationUS$12 to 25Beds fill quickly in high season (May to September), and rates fall in the wet months.
MealsUS$15 to 30Set-menu lunches run US$5 to 10 in the market area, while tourist-strip dinners cost US$12 to 20.
Local TransportUS$0 to 24Walking is free, and the round-trip shuttle bus to the ruins is about US$24.
Basic Activities/Entry FeesUS$10 to 40Hot springs cost about US$5 to 6, and Mandor Gardens about US$3 to 6. Machu Picchu entry runs about US$40 to 60 extra.
Miscellaneous ExpensesUS$5 to 15Bottled water, snacks, a beer and laundry cost more here because everything arrives by train.
Total Daily BudgetUS$42 to 134About US$75 on a lean day with a shuttle ride, rising with activities and dinners out.
Eat lunch at the Mercado Central counters and walk up to the ruins instead of taking the bus, which saves about US$12 to 20 a day.


source: peru.travel
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsBest day trips from Aguas Calientes

Aguas Calientes is itself the gateway to Machu Picchu, and most day trips from here are short, early starts that return you by evening.
Machu Picchu:
The reason everyone is here. Buses take about 25 minutes and cost around US$24 round trip, and entry tickets run about US$40 to 60 depending on the circuit. Book weeks ahead in dry season, arrive for your timed slot and plan for 3 to 4 hours inside. The common mistake is skipping the circuit rules and getting turned around at checkpoints.
👉 Explore Machu Picchu
Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain:
These add-on climbs cost an extra US$15 to 25 on top of entry and need separate time slots. Huayna Picchu takes about 2 to 3 hours of steep stone stairs, while Machu Picchu Mountain is longer but less crowded. Best in the dry season for clear views. … read more 👉
Aguas Calientes is itself the gateway to Machu Picchu, and most day trips from here are short, early starts that return you by evening.
Machu Picchu:
The reason everyone is here. Buses take about 25 minutes and cost around US$24 round trip, and entry tickets run about US$40 to 60 depending on the circuit. Book weeks ahead in dry season, arrive for your timed slot and plan for 3 to 4 hours inside. The common mistake is skipping the circuit rules and getting turned around at checkpoints.
👉 Explore Machu Picchu
Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain:
These add-on climbs cost an extra US$15 to 25 on top of entry and need separate time slots. Huayna Picchu takes about 2 to 3 hours of steep stone stairs, while Machu Picchu Mountain is longer but less crowded. Best in the dry season for clear views. Tickets sell out well in advance, so book them with your main entry.
👉 Explore Huayna Picchu
Mandor Gardens and Waterfall:
A flat 2 to 3 hour walk along the railway toward Mandor, about 3 km (2 miles) from town, leads to a small waterfall and cloud-forest gardens. Entry is about US$3 to 6. It makes a good lazy afternoon after the ruins, and it is best on a dry morning. First-timers often forget insect repellent.

Inti Punku (Sun Gate) Hike:
A 1 to 1.5 hour walk from inside Machu Picchu to the Sun Gate, where the Inca Trail arrives. It needs the Circuit 1 Intipunku route ticket and gives you a wide view down onto the citadel. Go early to catch fewer people and clearer skies, and carry water.

🛡️ SafetyStaying Safe: What Travelers Should Know

Aguas Calientes is safe for backpackers, with low violent crime and a visible police presence in the small center. The biggest issue is pickpocketing and bag-snatching in the crowded station area and market, so keep your daypack in front and your passport in a zipped pocket. Touts outside restaurants push menus and inflated drink deals, and the polite answer is simply to keep walking. Compare prices before sitting down, since some places add service charges. Ticket resellers near the station are not a reliable source for Machu Picchu entries, so book through official channels. Solo travelers will find the town easy at night, with lit streets and plenty of other travelers, though the unlit rail tracks and stone paths are slippery after dark, so carry a headlamp. Stay on marked paths when hiking, … read more 👉
Aguas Calientes is safe for backpackers, with low violent crime and a visible police presence in the small center. The biggest issue is pickpocketing and bag-snatching in the crowded station area and market, so keep your daypack in front and your passport in a zipped pocket. Touts outside restaurants push menus and inflated drink deals, and the polite answer is simply to keep walking. Compare prices before sitting down, since some places add service charges. Ticket resellers near the station are not a reliable source for Machu Picchu entries, so book through official channels. Solo travelers will find the town easy at night, with lit streets and plenty of other travelers, though the unlit rail tracks and stone paths are slippery after dark, so carry a headlamp. Stay on marked paths when hiking, because altitude, rain and steep stairs cause more injuries here than crime. Moderate your drinking before an early bus line.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Aguas Calientes is mainly a gateway to Machu Picchu, but it is a pleasant place to spend a night rather than a mere stopover. The hot springs (about US$5 to 6), Mandor Gardens and the museum on the river road give you a few extra hours beyond the ruins. Most travelers stay one night to catch the early bus, and the town itself has little to see beyond that.
One to two nights is enough in Aguas Calientes. One night lets you reach Machu Picchu on the first bus around 5:30 am and still have part of the afternoon for the hot springs. A second night makes sense if you book a Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain climb on a separate day, or want a gentler pace after hiking in via Hidroeléctrica.
Aguas Calientes can be done as a long day trip from Cusco, but it makes for 12 to 14 hours of travel and is tiring. The train from Ollantaytambo takes about 1.5 to 2 hours each way, and getting to Ollantaytambo from Cusco takes another 1.5 to 2 hours. Tickets run US$60 to 100 one way, so staying one night is usually less rushed and often no more expensive overall.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Peruvian towns near Aguas Calientes

Explore more nearby:

  • Ayacuho—Andean plazas, colonial churches, artisan workshops| 184 km away
  • Huancavelica—Cobbled lanes, ram’s-head broth, narrow-gauge station, cold nights| 269 km away
  • Nazca—Desert flights, line figures, flat grid streets, night sky talks| 320 km away

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We 💚 feedbackParting advice and final tips

Aguas Calientes looks like a one-night stop, but the hour after the last day-trip train leaves is its best. The streets empty, the river gets louder and staff finally relax. I would book a second night, skip the pricey restaurants along the tracks and eat at a local menú spot. Pack a light rain jacket, because the canyon changes quickly.

✈️ When did I visit Peru?
Peru I visited during my half year trip through South and Central America back in 2003

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Peru, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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👋 Meet the founderWho’s Behind Take Your Backpack?

Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

This site is built on a combination of firsthand travel experience and carefully curated insights from other backpackers. Many guides are based on places I’ve personally visited, while others bring together tips, observations, and practical advice shared by trusted travelers I’ve met along the way.

The goal is to provide realistic, experience-driven guidance — not generic itineraries — so you can explore destinations with better context, clearer expectations, and more confidence.