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Madagascar🇲🇬 | townsMorondavaBaobab avenue, Vezo fishing, Nosy Kely beach bars, Tsingy gateway | things to do and best time to go

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Backpacking in Morondava
🏆 Top picktown ranked #1
By Johan Kruseman 🇳🇱 | Updated October 16, 2026

Most people come for the baobabs, and they are right to. Giant Grandidier’s baobabs rising from red dirt at sunset are worth every bump of the road. What gets overlooked is that Morondava itself is a relaxed, sandy-streeted fishing town in western Madagascar, on the Mozambique Channel, and it is the staging post for Kirindy Forest and the Tsingy de Bemaraha. The town’s sights are modest. The beach is brown-sand and breezy, the market smells of dried fish and ripe mango, and the evenings are slow and social in a handful of beachfront guesthouses where you will meet other travelers easily. Skip the idea of a big night out. Spend your time on the baobabs and the Vezo fishing life instead. I’d order a large cold THB beer at a Nosy Kely beach bar, around Ar 5,000 (about US$1.10), and grilled zebu skewers from a street stall for a few thousand more. A good first day: baobabs at golden hour, then salt-sticky air and skewers by the shore.

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✨ Why go?
Ranked #1 town in Madagascar
Why Morondava should be on your travel list

Morondava earns its place on a western Madagascar route because it is the practical hinge between the baobab country and the big reserves. You can sleep in a small beach bungalow, wake up to Vezo pirogues with patched sails sliding past, and still reach the Allée des Baobabs in time for the soft light on both ends of the day. Most travelers stay two or three nights: one for the baobabs, one for the river and village side, and a spare for organizing Kirindy or the Tsingy. That makes it ideal for small-group travelers and solos who want to share a 4x4 and its costs, and the guesthouse bars near the beach make finding partners painless. It also suits slow travelers who like watching a working coastal town. Fish gets landed, boats get caulked, kids play football on hard sand. If you need nightlife, … read more 👉
Morondava earns its place on a western Madagascar route because it is the practical hinge between the baobab country and the big reserves. You can sleep in a small beach bungalow, wake up to Vezo pirogues with patched sails sliding past, and still reach the Allée des Baobabs in time for the soft light on both ends of the day. Most travelers stay two or three nights: one for the baobabs, one for the river and village side, and a spare for organizing Kirindy or the Tsingy. That makes it ideal for small-group travelers and solos who want to share a 4x4 and its costs, and the guesthouse bars near the beach make finding partners painless. It also suits slow travelers who like watching a working coastal town. Fish gets landed, boats get caulked, kids play football on hard sand. If you need nightlife, museums or cafés with espresso machines, this is a short stop. If you want Menabe landscapes with warm, unhurried company, it is a very easy place to linger.

💡 HighlightsEssential experiences to have while visiting Morondava

  1. Avenue of the Baobabs (Allée des Baobabs): The sight that put Morondava on the map. Dozens of Grandidier’s baobabs, some 30 meters tall and many centuries old, line a dirt road outside town. Go for the last hour before sunset, when the trunks turn orange and ox carts cross the road. Entry is a small fee or tip for the local guardians, and 1.5 to 2 hours is plenty.
  2. Nosy Kely Beach: The town’s seafront and its social center, with a rocky point, brown sand, beach bars and grilled fish stalls. Late afternoon is best, when the heat eases and pirogues are pulled up. Free to walk, and a beer or meal runs a few US dollars. Allow 1 to 2 hours.
  3. Betania Fishing Village: Cross the Morondava River by pirogue to this Vezo stilt-and-thatch village, ringed by mangroves. Go in the morning when boats are being
… read more 👉
  1. Avenue of the Baobabs (Allée des Baobabs): The sight that put Morondava on the map. Dozens of Grandidier’s baobabs, some 30 meters tall and many centuries old, line a dirt road outside town. Go for the last hour before sunset, when the trunks turn orange and ox carts cross the road. Entry is a small fee or tip for the local guardians, and 1.5 to 2 hours is plenty.
  2. Nosy Kely Beach: The town’s seafront and its social center, with a rocky point, brown sand, beach bars and grilled fish stalls. Late afternoon is best, when the heat eases and pirogues are pulled up. Free to walk, and a beer or meal runs a few US dollars. Allow 1 to 2 hours.
  3. Betania Fishing Village: Cross the Morondava River by pirogue to this Vezo stilt-and-thatch village, ringed by mangroves. Go in the morning when boats are being loaded. A negotiated round trip with a boatman is typically Ar 10,000 to 20,000 (about US$2 to 4). Plan 2 to 3 hours and ask before photographing people.
  4. Morondava Central Market: Sacks of rice, dried shrimp, zebu cuts, bright lamba cloth, cashews and bananas. It is busiest from early to mid morning and the best place to buy picnic food for the road. Free, and 45 minutes to an hour covers it.
  5. Dawn Fish Landing at the Port: Around sunrise, Vezo fishermen haul in the night’s catch of sharks, snapper and crab, and buyers haggle on the sand. It is raw, smelly and wonderful. Free to watch, and 45 minutes is enough, so arrive by 6:00 AM.
Beyond town, day trips reach Kirindy Forest Reserve (fosa and giant jumping rats on night walks), the baobab-framed Baobab Amoureux, and the boat-building village of Belo sur Mer, while the Tsingy de Bemaraha needs a longer expedition. Do the Avenue of the Baobabs first, on your first afternoon, because the light is the reason you came and a cloudy evening can be retried the next day.
Spotted a mistake or missing something? Contact us.

Things to do around Morondava

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🏘️ NeighborhoodsNeighborhood guide to Morondava

Morondava is small enough to cover on foot or by bike, and its three parts feel very different, so spend your hours accordingly.
  • Central Morondava (Avenue de l’Indépendance and the market): The dusty main drag smells of diesel, frying mofo (dough balls) and drying fish. Pousse-pousse (cycle rickshaw) bells and moto-taxi horns never really stop. The market is worth an early-morning hour for lychees, cashews, spices and zebu cuts under tarps. Skip lingering here after midday, when heat and glare flatten the appeal.
  • Nosy Kely (the beachfront): This is where you want your evenings. The sand is gray-brown and the Mozambique Channel is murky from river silt, so it is a place for sunsets, not swimming. Beach shacks grill fish and shrimp over charcoal, and the light turns orange around 5:30 pm. A cold
… read more 👉
Morondava is small enough to cover on foot or by bike, and its three parts feel very different, so spend your hours accordingly.
  • Central Morondava (Avenue de l’Indépendance and the market): The dusty main drag smells of diesel, frying mofo (dough balls) and drying fish. Pousse-pousse (cycle rickshaw) bells and moto-taxi horns never really stop. The market is worth an early-morning hour for lychees, cashews, spices and zebu cuts under tarps. Skip lingering here after midday, when heat and glare flatten the appeal.
  • Nosy Kely (the beachfront): This is where you want your evenings. The sand is gray-brown and the Mozambique Channel is murky from river silt, so it is a place for sunsets, not swimming. Beach shacks grill fish and shrimp over charcoal, and the light turns orange around 5:30 pm. A cold THB beer here beats anything in the center. The walk from downtown takes 20 to 30 minutes along sandy roads.
  • Betania: A fishing village across the river mouth, reached by a short pirogue (dugout canoe) crossing. Sails of patched cloth, boat-building, fish hanging on racks and children shouting hello make it the most authentic hour in town. Go in the morning when boats come in. Expect to be asked for small tips by guides, and carry coins.
  • Northern beach road toward the hotels: A quiet strip of palms and low bungalows, with little to do beyond walking and eating. Worth it for calm, not for sights. It is a flat, sandy slog in midday heat, so use a bike or moto-taxi.

⌛️ 1 daySeeing the highlights in 24 hours

5:30 AM, Avenue of the Baobabs: Start here, before anyone else, and hire a taxi or tuk-tuk the evening before so it waits at your guesthouse. Sunrise is softer than sunset, with mist, cool air and herders walking cattle between giant trunks. Linger an hour, then take the short ride to the nearby Baobab Amoureux, two entwined trees that look like a hug.

8:30 AM, Breakfast on the Seafront: Return to town for coffee, fresh bread and fried banana beignets at a beach café. Sit facing the water and let the day warm up.

10:00 AM, Central Market: Walk in and look for dried shrimp, spice piles, lamba fabric and cashews. Buy fruit for later and practice a few Malagasy greetings. Stalls are livelier now than at noon.

12:30 PM, Lunch at Nosy Kely: Order grilled fish or zebu skewers at a shack on the … read more 👉
5:30 AM, Avenue of the Baobabs: Start here, before anyone else, and hire a taxi or tuk-tuk the evening before so it waits at your guesthouse. Sunrise is softer than sunset, with mist, cool air and herders walking cattle between giant trunks. Linger an hour, then take the short ride to the nearby Baobab Amoureux, two entwined trees that look like a hug.

8:30 AM, Breakfast on the Seafront: Return to town for coffee, fresh bread and fried banana beignets at a beach café. Sit facing the water and let the day warm up.

10:00 AM, Central Market: Walk in and look for dried shrimp, spice piles, lamba fabric and cashews. Buy fruit for later and practice a few Malagasy greetings. Stalls are livelier now than at noon.

12:30 PM, Lunch at Nosy Kely: Order grilled fish or zebu skewers at a shack on the beach. After lunch, rest in the shade during the hottest hours, or stroll the rocky point.

2:30 PM, Betania Village: This is the stop most visitors skip, and it is worth it. A pirogue crosses the river to a Vezo village of thatched houses on stilts, mangrove channels and drying fish racks. Agree on the fare and return time before you board, and buy something small from a local vendor. Walk slowly and ask permission before taking pictures.

5:00 PM, Return and Sunset: Cross back by boat and walk the shore as the light turns copper. Watch fishermen pushing out for the night.

7:00 PM, Dinner and a Cold THB: Finish at a beachfront guesthouse restaurant, where other travelers swap notes on Kirindy and the Tsingy. Go to bed early, since another sunrise awaits.

🌤️ When to go?When to go for the best experience

May to October is the easiest window: dry, sunny days, and the baobab light at dusk is at its best.
  • Dry Season (May to October): Days reach 28 to 32°C (82 to 90°F), nights drop to 16 to 21°C (61 to 70°F) in June to August. Sunrise is around 6 am and sunset around 5:30 to 6 pm. Roads to the Avenue of the Baobabs and Kirindy are firm. Prices for 4x4 hire and rooms rise in July and August.
  • Hot Wet Season (November to March): Humid heat of 30 to 35°C (86 to 95°F) with downpours, and some dirt tracks turn to mud or close. Cyclones can hit from January to March. Rooms are cheaper and crowds almost nonexistent, but wildlife trips are harder. Baobabs are green with leaves.
  • Shoulder Months (April and November): Rain is fading or starting, and you get lower prices with fewer tourists.
Book a vehicle a week … read more 👉
May to October is the easiest window: dry, sunny days, and the baobab light at dusk is at its best.
  • Dry Season (May to October): Days reach 28 to 32°C (82 to 90°F), nights drop to 16 to 21°C (61 to 70°F) in June to August. Sunrise is around 6 am and sunset around 5:30 to 6 pm. Roads to the Avenue of the Baobabs and Kirindy are firm. Prices for 4x4 hire and rooms rise in July and August.
  • Hot Wet Season (November to March): Humid heat of 30 to 35°C (86 to 95°F) with downpours, and some dirt tracks turn to mud or close. Cyclones can hit from January to March. Rooms are cheaper and crowds almost nonexistent, but wildlife trips are harder. Baobabs are green with leaves.
  • Shoulder Months (April and November): Rain is fading or starting, and you get lower prices with fewer tourists.
Book a vehicle a week ahead if you arrive in July or August, since local drivers fill quickly.


source: climatestotravel.comJANJanuary: fair for travelingFEBFebruary: fair for travelingMARMarch: fair for travelingAPRApril: good for travelingMAYMay: highly recommended for travelingJUNJune: excellent for travelingJULJuly: excellent for travelingAUGAugust: excellent for travelingSEPSeptember: excellent for travelingOCTOctober: highly recommended for travelingNOVNovember: fair for travelingDECDecember: fair for traveling
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🛏️ Where to stay?How to pick the right area

The center near Avenue de l’Indépendance and the Nosy Kely beachfront are the two areas for a budget bed, and the beach side is the better pick for most backpackers.
Nosy Kely has the largest cluster of cheap guesthouses and simple bungalows, usually private rooms rather than true dorms. Dorm beds are rare in Morondava, so expect to pay for a basic double and split it. The sea breeze helps with sleeping in the heat, restaurants are a short stroll away, and the sunset is on your doorstep. Nights are quiet apart from a few beach bars, and walking back after dinner on the main sandy track is generally … read more 👉
The center near Avenue de l’Indépendance and the Nosy Kely beachfront are the two areas for a budget bed, and the beach side is the better pick for most backpackers.
Nosy Kely has the largest cluster of cheap guesthouses and simple bungalows, usually private rooms rather than true dorms. Dorm beds are rare in Morondava, so expect to pay for a basic double and split it. The sea breeze helps with sleeping in the heat, restaurants are a short stroll away, and the sunset is on your doorstep. Nights are quiet apart from a few beach bars, and walking back after dinner on the main sandy track is generally fine in a group. Keep a flashlight, since streetlights are patchy.
The center is handier if you have an early taxi-brousse. It has a few budget rooms within a short walk of the station and market, and you can eat cheaply at street stalls. The trade-off is noise: roosters, motorbikes and loudspeakers start before dawn. It is also hotter, with less breeze.
Book ahead for July and August. In the wet season you can usually walk in and bargain. Check that your room has a working fan and mosquito net.

🚌 Getting aroundGetting around like a local

The taxi-brousse station sits on the edge of Morondava, and the center and the seafront are a 10 to 20 minute ride by pousse-pousse or tuk-tuk, usually Ar2,000 to 5,000 (about US$0.50 to 1.10) after a little bargaining. Morondava is flat, sandy and small, so most backpackers walk the main street and the beachfront strip at Nosy Kely and ride only for the longer hops. The roads are dusty and hot by midday, public transport is informal, and nothing runs to a timetable.
  • Walking. The center, the market, the fish landing area and the beach road all sit within about 2 km of each other, and the sand lanes are fine in sandals. Walk in the early morning or after 4 pm, when the light turns amber and the heat drops. At midday the glare off the pale sand is punishing, so skip it.
  • Pousse-pousse. These cycle
… read more 👉
The taxi-brousse station sits on the edge of Morondava, and the center and the seafront are a 10 to 20 minute ride by pousse-pousse or tuk-tuk, usually Ar2,000 to 5,000 (about US$0.50 to 1.10) after a little bargaining. Morondava is flat, sandy and small, so most backpackers walk the main street and the beachfront strip at Nosy Kely and ride only for the longer hops. The roads are dusty and hot by midday, public transport is informal, and nothing runs to a timetable.
  • Walking. The center, the market, the fish landing area and the beach road all sit within about 2 km of each other, and the sand lanes are fine in sandals. Walk in the early morning or after 4 pm, when the light turns amber and the heat drops. At midday the glare off the pale sand is punishing, so skip it.
  • Pousse-pousse. These cycle rickshaws are the classic way to cover short hops, at roughly Ar1,000 to 3,000 (US$0.20 to 0.70) per ride. You hear the squeak of the chain before you see the driver. They are slow, but they suit the town, and agreeing the price before you sit down avoids arguments.
  • Tuk-tuk and taxi. Three-wheelers are the quick option for the airport, the station or the beach road after dark, around Ar3,000 to 8,000 (US$0.70 to 1.80) depending on distance. Expect open sides, exhaust and a bumpy ride. A rare car taxi costs more.
  • Bicycle or motorbike rental. Bikes cost around Ar10,000 to 20,000 (US$2.20 to 4.50) a day and are the best way to reach the Baobab Alley road, about 15 to 20 km out, if you start at dawn. The road is paved and flat, but there is almost no shade and the afternoon heat is brutal. Scooters cost more, usually Ar50,000 to 80,000 (US$11 to 18).
  • Taxi-brousse. Shared minibuses are how you leave town for Belo sur Tsiribihina, Antsirabe or Tana, and fares run from about Ar10,000 to 70,000 (US$2.20 to 15.50) depending on the destination. Most leave early in the morning, often when full, and the Antsirabe route takes 12 to 15 hours on a good day. They are cramped and loud, but they are the only budget option. Book the seat the day before.

For Baobab Alley and the sunset spots, a hired car or tuk-tuk with a driver is better value than it sounds when split between a few people, because the light there matters more than saving a few thousand ariary.

👛 Costs (as of 16 October 2026)What things cost and how to budget

Expect to spend about US$28 to 55 a day in Morondava, with most of the variation coming from rooms and any 4x4 trip.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$8 to 18True dorms are rare, so this is a basic private room with fan and net, ideally split between two. Prices peak in July and August.
MealsUS$6 to 14Street rice with beans or zebu costs under US$2. Grilled fish and seafood at beach restaurants run US$5 to 10.
Local transportUS$2 to 6Pousse-pousse and tuk-tuk rides cost US$0.25 to 1.50, and a bicycle about US$2 to 4 a day.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$8 to 12Baobab avenue entry is about US$1 to 3, and shared 4x4 costs add more. Kirindy is pricier and not included in this daily figure.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$4 to 5Water, SIM data, tips for guides and the occasional cold beer.
… read more 👉
Expect to spend about US$28 to 55 a day in Morondava, with most of the variation coming from rooms and any 4x4 trip.
CategoryBudget RangeLocal Reality
Dorm accommodationUS$8 to 18True dorms are rare, so this is a basic private room with fan and net, ideally split between two. Prices peak in July and August.
MealsUS$6 to 14Street rice with beans or zebu costs under US$2. Grilled fish and seafood at beach restaurants run US$5 to 10.
Local transportUS$2 to 6Pousse-pousse and tuk-tuk rides cost US$0.25 to 1.50, and a bicycle about US$2 to 4 a day.
Basic activities/entry feesUS$8 to 12Baobab avenue entry is about US$1 to 3, and shared 4x4 costs add more. Kirindy is pricier and not included in this daily figure.
Miscellaneous expensesUS$4 to 5Water, SIM data, tips for guides and the occasional cold beer.
Total Daily BudgetUS$28 to 55Add US$25 to 45 on days you visit Kirindy.
Share a 4x4 with other travelers at your guesthouse to cut the biggest cost, and eat at local gargotes (small cafés) for most meals.
⚠️ Prices can change and everyone travels differently, so take this as a rough guide. Hope it helps you plan your adventure!

🚌 Day tripsEasy escapes and nearby places

Morondava is the standard base for day trips, since most of the region’s big sights lie within a few hours by 4x4 on mostly firm roads.
Avenue of the Baobabs:
The famous double row of giant Grandidier’s baobabs lies about 45 minutes to an hour from town, mostly on tarmac then a rough track. Go for sunset, when the trunks glow red, and stay for the stars. Budget US$10 to 20 per person if you share a 4x4, plus an entry fee of around Ar 5,000 (US$1) to 10,000. The common mistake is arriving at midday, when the light is flat and hawkers are the main event. Dry season is best.
👉 Explore Avenue of the Baobabs
Kirindy Forest Reserve:
About 1.5 to 2 hours from town by road, this dry deciduous forest is the best place to spot the fosa, Madagascar’s largest carnivore, plus giant jumping rats and sportive … read more 👉
Morondava is the standard base for day trips, since most of the region’s big sights lie within a few hours by 4x4 on mostly firm roads.
Avenue of the Baobabs:
The famous double row of giant Grandidier’s baobabs lies about 45 minutes to an hour from town, mostly on tarmac then a rough track. Go for sunset, when the trunks glow red, and stay for the stars. Budget US$10 to 20 per person if you share a 4x4, plus an entry fee of around Ar 5,000 (US$1) to 10,000. The common mistake is arriving at midday, when the light is flat and hawkers are the main event. Dry season is best.
👉 Explore Avenue of the Baobabs
Kirindy Forest Reserve:
About 1.5 to 2 hours from town by road, this dry deciduous forest is the best place to spot the fosa, Madagascar’s largest carnivore, plus giant jumping rats and sportive lemurs on a night walk. Expect around US$25 to 45 including park fees, a guide and vehicle share. First-timers often visit only by day and miss the nocturnal animals. The best time is the dry season, when fosa activity peaks around mating from October to December.

Betania Fishing Village:
A short pirogue ride across the river mouth takes you to Vezo fishing families, drying fish and boat-builders. Plan two to three hours, costing about Ar 10,000 to 30,000 (US$2 to 7) with a guide. Go in the morning for returning boats, and bring small bills for photos and tips.

🛡️ SafetySafety Tips and Common Scams in Morondava

Morondava is relaxed and low-risk for travelers, and most problems are petty and avoidable. Petty theft happens on the beach and around the market, so leave valuables at your room, keep your phone out of sight on crowded streets and carry only the cash you need. After dark, the beach road and the quiet northern strip are poorly lit, so use a pousse-pousse or walk in a group rather than alone. Solo travelers, including women, generally report few problems here but will get frequent attention and calls from vendors and moto-taxi drivers. A calm no and a smile ends most of it. The usual annoyance is price inflation for rides, guides and 4x4 trips, so agree the cost and what is included before you start. Use licensed guides inside Kirindy, and avoid swimming in river mouths, where currents are … read more 👉
Morondava is relaxed and low-risk for travelers, and most problems are petty and avoidable. Petty theft happens on the beach and around the market, so leave valuables at your room, keep your phone out of sight on crowded streets and carry only the cash you need. After dark, the beach road and the quiet northern strip are poorly lit, so use a pousse-pousse or walk in a group rather than alone. Solo travelers, including women, generally report few problems here but will get frequent attention and calls from vendors and moto-taxi drivers. A calm no and a smile ends most of it. The usual annoyance is price inflation for rides, guides and 4x4 trips, so agree the cost and what is included before you start. Use licensed guides inside Kirindy, and avoid swimming in river mouths, where currents are strong and sharks have been reported. Keep your belongings close on taxi-brousse, especially roof luggage.

FAQTraveler FAQ

Morondava is worth two or three days, mainly for the Avenue of the Baobabs, about 15 to 20 km north, and its unhurried beach town feel. The sunrise and sunset light on the giant baobabs is the main draw, and you can add Kirindy Forest for fosa and lemurs. It is also the end point of the long road from Antsirabe, so many people arrive tired and stay longer than planned.
Plan on 2 to 3 days. One day goes to Baobab Alley at sunrise and sunset, which costs around Ar10,000 to 20,000 (US$2 to 4.50) per person for entry and a local driver or bike. A second day covers Kirindy Forest, about 1.5 to 2 hours away, and a third gives you time for the beach and the fish market. Add a day if you plan to continue by pirogue on the Tsiribihina River.
No, Morondava has no large city close enough for a day trip. The nearest major hub, Antsirabe, is 12 to 15 hours away by taxi-brousse, and Tana is around 16 to 20 hours. A flight from Antananarivo is possible and takes about an hour, but you would still want at least one night to catch the baobabs at both sunrise and sunset.
⚠️ Things can change over time, so always validate details locally before you go.

Other Malagasy towns near Morondava

Explore more nearby:

  • Maintirano—Remote west coast, fishing beach, airstrip arrivals, river-mouth sunset| 250 km away
  • Ranohira—Isalo massif, Piscine Naturelle, sapphire stalls, sandstone sunset| 277 km away
  • Sakaraha—Zombitse forest, sifaka loops, RN7 overnight, grilled zebu| 292 km away

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We 💚 feedbackWhat to keep in mind

Be here at dawn and again at dusk, ideally in the dry months when the roads are firm and the sky is clear. Midday is hot and a little dull, so use it for a nap. I’d spend one sunrise at the baobab avenue, not the sunset crowd, and bring small notes of ariary for guides and pirogue captains.

✈️ When did I visit Madagascar?
Madagascar I went backpacking in October 2019. With a friend I rented a 4WD and drove around the southern part of Madagascar.

✍️ Help improve this page!
The information on this page is based on my own backpacking experience in Madagascar, supplemented with up-to-date research and feedback from other travelers. Travel details can change, so if you notice anything outdated or incomplete, feel free to let me know.



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Johan, backpacker and founder of TakeYourBackpackHi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.

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