10 Days in Haiti

This ten-day route through southern Haiti is for travelers who want art, waterfalls and islands without the cruise-ship circuit. The pace is relaxed, with two longer road days separated by beach time. To execute it, you will need a small plane into Jacmel, a hired car or tap-tap along the south coast, moto-taxis for short hops and a boat to Île-à-Vache. The road from Port-au-Prince to Jacmel and the capital itself are affected by gang violence, so flying in and checking local security before the Jacmel to Les Cayes leg are not optional.

Days 1-3: Jacmel, Bassin Bleu and the East Coast

Jacmel is the creative capital of the south. Papier-mâché masks and painted wooden birds fill the workshops, and 19th-century coffee merchants’ houses with iron balconies still line the streets above the harbor. Use the first afternoon for wandering and studio visits, then end at Jacmel Beach, a gray-sand promenade more for strolling than swimming. On the second day, go to Bassin Bleu, about 12 kilometers into … read more 👉

This ten-day route through southern Haiti is for travelers who want art, waterfalls and islands without the cruise-ship circuit. The pace is relaxed, with two longer road days separated by beach time. To execute it, you will need a small plane into Jacmel, a hired car or tap-tap along the south coast, moto-taxis for short hops and a boat to Île-à-Vache. The road from Port-au-Prince to Jacmel and the capital itself are affected by gang violence, so flying in and checking local security before the Jacmel to Les Cayes leg are not optional.

Days 1-3: Jacmel, Bassin Bleu and the East Coast

Jacmel is the creative capital of the south. Papier-mâché masks and painted wooden birds fill the workshops, and 19th-century coffee merchants’ houses with iron balconies still line the streets above the harbor. Use the first afternoon for wandering and studio visits, then end at Jacmel Beach, a gray-sand promenade more for strolling than swimming. On the second day, go to Bassin Bleu, about 12 kilometers into the hills. It is a series of three turquoise pools fed by waterfalls, and reaching the lowest one involves a short scramble with a rope. Hire a local guide at the trailhead. On the third day, head east to Plage de Cayes-Jacmel and the quieter cove of Ti Mouillage, where fishing boats share the sand with the occasional swimmer.

Days 4-5: The South Coast to Aquin and Les Cayes

Day 4 is your first long road day. You head inland over the mountains to the main coastal road, then west through Grand-Goâve to Aquin, about five to six hours with stops. Aquin sits on a broad, shallow bay, and its waterfront is a quiet place to stretch your legs and spend the night. The next morning, it is a short hop to Saint-Louis-du-Sud, where the ruins of a colonial fort sit on an islet just offshore. Continue to Les Cayes, the south’s main port town, and end the day at Gelee Beach east of town, where local families come on weekends.

Days 6-7: Île-à-Vache

The boat from Les Cayes takes about 30 to 45 minutes, and once you step onto Île-à-Vache the pace changes. There are no cars, just footpaths between fishing villages, mangroves and small sandy coves. Stay two nights so you can walk out to the island’s far side and spend an afternoon at Plage de Port-Morgan, a sheltered bay where yachts anchor and the water is as clear as a swimming pool.

Days 8-10: Port-Salut and Grotte Marie Jeanne

Return to the mainland and drive about an hour west to Port-Salut. Its long arc of palm-backed sand is the best beach in the south to settle into for two nights. Walk the quieter stretch at Pointe Sable at the end of the day, when the fishing boats come in. Use the next morning for Grotte Marie Jeanne near Port-à-Piment. This multi-level cave system is explored with local guides by flashlight, and there are bats overhead. On day 10, head back to Les Cayes for your departure.

If you have an extra day around Jacmel, take the winding road up to La Vallée de Jacmel, a cool mountain village of coffee farms and stone houses that hardly any visitors bother with.