Mozambique is very doable independently along the southern coast, but it is slower and rougher than Kenya or South Africa. Expect early bus departures, long distances and very little English outside the tourist areas.
The well-worn backpacker line runs from
Maputo to
Tofo (7 to 8 hours by bus) and on to
Vilanculos (another 4 to 5 hours). Along that route you will find hostels with dorm beds for about MZN 650 to 1,300 (US$10 to 20). Learn some basic Portuguese, carry cash in meticais, and plan on MZN 2,000 to 3,200 (US$30 to 50) a day before diving or boat trips.
Two weeks in Mozambique lets you cover the south and reach one northern highlight without rushing. Ten days is enough for the southern coast alone.
With 5 days, stay in
Vilanculos and sail the Bazaruto islands. With 10 days, combine
Maputo (3 nights),
Tofo (3) and Vilanculos (3). With 15 days, add
Gorongosa National Park (2 nights) and fly from Beira to Nampula for
Ilha de Moçambique. Distances are big. Maputo to Vilanculos takes 9 to 10 hours by road, so build in a rest day after every long ride.
Yes, you can travel around Mozambique without a car by combining long-distance buses, local chapa minibuses and the occasional domestic flight. The trade-off is time.
Buses leave Maputo around 4 to 5 a.m. for
Tofo (7 to 8 hours, MZN 1,000 to 1,300, US$15 to 20) and
Vilanculos (9 to 10 hours). Chapas cover short hops such as Tofo to
Inhambane in 30 to 40 minutes for small change. For the north, fly to
Nampula, then take a chapa 3 to 4 hours to Ilha de Moçambique.
Gorongosa requires a pickup arranged from the Inchope road.
The essential stops in Mozambique are the Bazaruto islands off Vilanculos, the whale shark waters at Tofo and the UNESCO-listed Ilha de Moçambique. Gorongosa is the safari to pick.
From
Vilanculos, a full-day dhow trip to the
Bazaruto Archipelago costs US$50 to 80 (about MZN 3,200 to 5,100).
Tofo ocean safaris run US$40 to 60. Give
Ilha de Moçambique 2 to 3 nights to see Fort São Sebastião and the 1522 chapel. Spend 2 nights in
Gorongosa National Park for game drives, and 2 to 3 in
Maputo for its railway station and art scene.
If time is tight in Mozambique, skip the big transit cities such as Nampula, Beira and Tete, and leave the remote western parks for another trip.
Niassa,
Limpopo and the northern mountains are worth it but need 4 or more days and a vehicle. Cabo Delgado north of
Pemba, including
Mocímboa da Praia, has been affected by insurgent violence and is best left out. In the south, you can pass through
Xai-Xai and
Maxixe on the bus without stopping. That saves your days for
Tofo,
Vilanculos and the islands.
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