How many cities to visit: Four to five cities is the right number for a trip of two weeks, because long bus legs, closed Fridays and slow tea-house evenings eat more time than the map suggests. Seven cities in the same period means you spend a third of your days on buses and see bazaars only from the window. Add a sixth only if you have three weeks or more.
Choosing between kinds of cities: Pick the central plateau cities if you want architecture, gardens, bazaars and the easiest logistics. They are the best use of limited time and the best value. Choose the northwest if you prefer cooler air, fewer foreigners and a different language and food culture, accepting longer transfers. Go to the Gulf coast only for beaches, island hopping or winter warmth, since the urban sights are thin. Use the …
read more 👉 How many cities to visit: Four to five cities is the right number for a trip of two weeks, because long bus legs, closed Fridays and slow tea-house evenings eat more time than the map suggests. Seven cities in the same period means you spend a third of your days on buses and see bazaars only from the window. Add a sixth only if you have three weeks or more.
Choosing between kinds of cities: Pick the central plateau cities if you want architecture, gardens, bazaars and the easiest logistics. They are the best use of limited time and the best value. Choose the northwest if you prefer cooler air, fewer foreigners and a different language and food culture, accepting longer transfers. Go to the Gulf coast only for beaches, island hopping or winter warmth, since the urban sights are thin. Use the capital as a gateway, a visa and SIM stop and a museum day or two, not as the center of your trip. Skip oil and industrial cities, which have little worth seeing.
Budget: A backpacker can live on US$30 to 50 a day: dorm or basic guesthouse bed at US$8 to 20, meals at US$3 to 8, city transport at US$1 to 3 and a tea or two. Mid-range travelers with private rooms in restored courtyard hotels spend US$60 to 100. Entry fees for foreigners at major monuments run roughly US$3 to 10 each, so a city with three or four sites costs around US$15 to 30 in tickets. Intercity buses cost US$5 to 15 per leg and domestic flights US$30 to 80. A private guide is US$30 to 60 a day, and a driver adds US$40 to 80. Expect all of these to shift with the currency.
Costs and delays that catch travelers out: Foreign cards do not work. Bring all your money in clean, undamaged euros or US dollars, plus a cushion for the whole trip, and change small amounts at licensed exchange offices, not with street touts. A prepaid tourist card, sold to foreigners, can cover card-only payments. Tourist prices at sites are far above local prices, and signs list foreigner tickets in a separate column, so budget for them. Taarof, the ritual of polite refusal, causes confusion over prices. Agree fares for taxis before getting in, or use ride-hailing apps, which show the price and cost far less than a wave-down cab. Many sites and museums shut on Mondays or Fridays, and Nowruz and religious holidays close shops for days, so check opening days before building a city around one site. Visa processing takes time, so apply well ahead. Travel insurance valid for Iran is mandatory and some policies exclude it, so confirm cover in writing.
Safety and cultural considerations: Everyday street crime is low in Iranian cities and most visitors report warmth and curiosity from locals. The real risks are political. Governments advise against travel for dual nationals and some Western citizens, and arrests of foreigners have happened. Do not photograph military or police sites, bridges and government buildings, and do not fly a drone. Avoid protests and political talk with strangers. Citizens of the US, UK and Canada must book a guide or tour for the whole stay.
Women must cover their hair and wear loose clothing that covers arms and legs in public, and enforcement varies by city and moment. Carry a scarf and wear it without argument, since fines and confrontations are not worth the stress. Men should avoid shorts. Keep public displays of affection out of sight, and do not bring alcohol. Mosque visits require modest dress, and women may be given a chador at the door. Unmarried couples can face problems sharing rooms, so book as the hotel asks. Sign up for internet workarounds before you go, since VPN downloads are blocked in-country.
Treat invitations to tea or dinner as normal and accept them. Refuse politely once or twice if you are unsure.