How many cities to visit: Four cities in three weeks is the number I advise, and three if you have two weeks. The reason is transit. Moving between Indian cities regularly costs half a day or more, trains run late, and each arrival involves finding a bed, adjusting to a new neighborhood and sorting out transport. Past four stops, you are spending more hours on platforms than on streets. Trying to fit six or seven cities into two weeks is the single most expensive mistake in time you can make here, and it produces a blur of stations and hotel lobbies.
Choosing between the kinds of cities: Match the city type to your travel style. If you want history and monuments, the northern and Rajasthan cities deliver the most, but they are also the most tiring, with relentless touting and heavy crowds at the headline sites. If you want a gentler introduction, the southern cities are easier: more transparent pricing, better public transport, more walkable temple districts and less pressure. If you are drawn to food, art and nightlife, the western metropolis and the coastal cities have the strongest scenes, but you pay more for a bed. If you want culture without crowds and have the patience for rougher infrastructure, the east is cheaper and quieter. First-timers should start in the south or finish in it, so that one week of the trip is easy.
Lower priority: any city whose main attraction is a single monument visible in two hours. Spend the saved time elsewhere.
What it costs per day: A backpacker budget runs about ₹2,100 to 3,400 (US$25 to 40) a day. That covers a dorm bed or basic private room (dorms ₹500 to 1,000, or US$6 to 12; private rooms ₹1,200 to 3,000, or US$14 to 35), meals at local restaurants (₹150 to 400 each, or US$2 to 5), metro and auto-rickshaw rides (₹10 to 200, or US$0.12 to 2.40) and small entry fees. Mid-range travelers should plan on ₹5,000 to 9,000 (US$60 to 105) a day. The western metropolis sits at the high end of each band, and the east and smaller southern cities at the low end.
Entry fees and guides: Foreigners pay many times what residents pay at national monuments. Major sites typically cost ₹600 to 1,300 (US$7 to 15), lesser forts and tombs ₹40 to 600 (US$0.50 to 7), and a few have extra charges for inner chambers or video. Over a three-week trip, entry fees can reach ₹8,000 to 15,000 (US$95 to 175). Prioritize five or six headline sites and skip the rest. Many sites give discounts for online booking, so use official booking portals and avoid agents.
Licensed guides charge about ₹1,500 to 3,000 (US$18 to 35) for a half day, and they are worth it at complex sites like large forts and palace complexes where context matters. Audio guides cost ₹200 to 500 (US$2.40 to 6) and are a sensible substitute at most places. Never accept a guide who approaches you on the street offering a free tour, because the bill arrives at the shops.
Transport costs and delays: Sleeper-class train tickets for a 10 to 12 hour leg run about ₹500 to 900 (US$6 to 11), and air-conditioned 3AC berths ₹1,000 to 1,800 (US$12 to 21). Waitlisted tickets look cheap but may never confirm, so check status before relying on one. Trains arrive 1 to 6 hours late in winter fog, so avoid booking flights the same day. Use prepaid taxi counters at airports and ride-hailing apps in cities. For street rickshaws, agree a price first or insist on the meter.
Scams and costly traps: The classic ones are persistent. Drivers claim your hotel is closed or flooded and steer you to a commission hotel. Strangers say the monument or station is closed today and offer a detour. Gem, carpet and handicraft shops offer rides in exchange for browsing, and the price includes the commission. Confirm hotel bookings directly, check closures at the official gate, and politely decline all unsolicited offers. Change money at banks or ATMs rather than on the street, and withdraw larger sums to cut repeated fees of about ₹200 to 500 (US$2.40 to 6) per withdrawal.
Safety and cultural considerations: Violent crime against travelers is uncommon, but petty theft, harassment and traffic are real hazards. Women, especially solo, should avoid arriving at night, avoid walking alone after dark in unfamiliar districts, and use app-based cabs with the trip shared with a contact. Dress covers shoulders and knees, which also reduces unwanted attention. The emergency number nationwide is 112.
Remove shoes before entering temples and mosques, use your right hand to eat and hand over money, and ask before photographing people, especially at religious sites and ghats. Many temples restrict entry or photography for non-Hindus in inner areas, so respect the signs. Public displays of affection draw stares.
Plan around the environment, too. Drink only sealed or filtered water, eat at busy places with high turnover, and carry basic rehydration salts. In the northern plains from late October to January, air quality can reach hazardous levels, so carry an N95 mask and check an air quality app before long outdoor days. In April to June, avoid midday sightseeing, because heat illness is a risk and the day is wasted anyway.
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Hi, I’m Johan (Netherlands 🇳🇱), the creator of TakeYourBackpack. Over the past 3 decades, I’ve backpacked through 90+ countries across six continents, gaining extensive experience with independent travel, long-term trips, and overland routes.